Writing Slope Dilema

[fuchsiaprincess]

Congratulations, Michael

[my63]

Thanks Fuchsiaprincess I have to be honest I did not expect to win it and when it did not arrive yesterday as expected I thought it was not coming.

However it arrived this morning it is huge!! 500mm x 300mm 150mm high.

Oh sorry you want pictures

 

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2806/9100049956_618a62de54_z.jpg

IMG_0536 by my0771, on Flickr

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/9100048772_8a870429e9_z.jpg

IMG_0535 by my0771, on Flickr

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7303/9097796455_40a36574de_z.jpg

IMG_0522 by my0771, on Flickr

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7344/9100038866_85d2e9b00c_z.jpg

IMG_0527 by my0771, on Flickr

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3757/9100041462_1d8d959b51_z.jpg

IMG_0529 by my0771, on Flickr

 

The veneer is in a bit of a state the top has a diamond shape of different veneer on the top.

There is a lot of space in the lid of this box so my plan is to make a cantilever tray to make use of that space.

 

The lock is very unusual as it has a brass sprung pin that is pressed down when the lid closes to secure the drawer very neat.

I think I will do as little as possible to the outside and line the inside with suede.

This box has moved right up my list

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

[fuchsiaprincess]

Can't wait to see your work on it

[my63]

Ah there is a little problem there I have just started making a jewellery box for my wife she is a great fan of all things Art Deco and decided this would make a fine jewellery box.

I will show pictures of its progress if anyone is interested I know it will be a little off topic.

 

Regards

Michael

[mhguda]

Yes please.

[fuchsiaprincess]

Ditto!

[my63]

Please be aware it is going to be totally different when finished.

 

Michael

[Shangas]

Hi Folks,

 

I have a bit of staining and gluing, and then the next step is to measure, cut and glue on the FABRIC for the writing-slope.

 

I'm well aware that these boxes do NOT use HINGES on the writing-leaves. The fabric or leather acts as hinges.

 

That being the case, I would need to put fabric over both sides of the joints to have adequate strength, to prevent separation from the box.

 

How much glue should I use for this, and what type of glue?

[my63]

Hi Shangas

It is your box if you want to hinge the leaves then go for it there is a guy in the uk who restores writing slopes and all of his boxes have hinged leaves.

I normally use waterproof PVA glue however the material you are using can make a difference when I have used velvet I found pva bled through the material.

To get the best result I used a thin card and used a spay glue from a can to stick the material to the card and then pva to stick the card into the box.

If your material is very thin I would consider covering both leaves rather than just a strip across the joint that way you will not get a line showing where the strengthening strip ends.

I hope the information is of some help

Regards

Michael.

[Shangas]

Thanks Mike.

 

I have been thinking about hinges. I'm undecided whether I'll use them or not. If I can find ones which are small enough and suitable, then I will use them.

[my63]

Shangas here is a link to the site I mentioned above I notice he has added an interesting video since I last visited

 

http://www.jackdawboxes.co.uk/

 

 

Skoff here is the link to the Peter Dunsmore veneering video where he shows how to inlay veneer

 

 

Rgeards

 

Michael

[Skoff]

Thanks for the info on leaf hinges, I am now starting to think about that stage of the process. For the time being I have been working on veneer and brass wire inlays..

 

Here are a couple of update pictures:

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1454_zps876d55b4.jpg

 

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1453_zps3073500e.jpg

 

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1452_zps3a9aaf45.jpg

 

Really enjoying hearing about the other projects too chaps, thanks and keep the updates coming!

[my63]

Impressive work skoff it is looking really good.

What process have you used for applying your veneer?

 

Hinges wise I have wondered why he does not use a fine piano hinge on the inside rather than having them on show.

 

Regards

Michael

[Skoff]

Thanks Michael, I'm using wood glue, a carpet tile, a bit of wood and clamps to apply the veneer. This means it's a long and slow process as I can only do one application per day as I leave the glue to dry overnight, still there is no rush to get this finished.

 

The Peter Dunsmore videos have been very helpful by the way.

[my63]

Skoff it might be worth you getting a cheap iron mine was £4 and give the iron method a go it is just as easy as the clamping method but is a lot quicker.

The iron heats the glue causing it to go off quickly.

Are you using PVA for the brass pieces or something else?

[Skoff]

Actually I do have an iron. When I started the project my wife had just bought a new one as the old one wasn't a 'slippery' as it used to be. I rescued the old one from the bin (!) and gave it 5 minutes with a fine grit sandpaper, now it works a treat!

 

I will have a go with the iron on a test piece of wood if you say it's easy, I would like to hurry things along a bit as now the box is looking much closer to the finished article, I'm quite keen to crack on with the polishing and leather. Doesn't the heat of the iron cause the veneer to curl up? Or does the glue go off too quickly for that to happen?

 

As regards the brass, I'm just using the same wood glue used for the veneer. I did a test and it seemed to work really well. I thought about epoxy or superglue, but I don't think it needs the extra grip, all the brass is located with a slight indentation I carved into the wood so lateral movement isn't problem.

 

Do you have any tips for getting fold marks out of leather? I have a whole lamb skin but it was folded for transit. I have had it hanging up for days now and the folds are still visible. I don't really want to get the iron on it as I think it might burn.

[my63]

As long as the fold has not damaged the leather it will disappear as soon as you stick it down.

I have ironed leather and suede just use a cooler setting.

try a sample area first though.

You are supposed to use a veneer hammer with the iron. (once you have heated the glue you can hear it sizzle). The hammer is a strip of brass in a piece of wood used to apply pressure. I made one but often use a block of wood when I can't find it.

be careful as the veneer gets really hot and hot glue sticks and is also very hot. (Doh)

Once you have done 2 or 3 pieces you will get the hang of it.

[my63]

Sorry please make sure that you clean you iron after veneering you don't want to get glue on your leather.

i have an old t shirt that I put on leather before touching leather with the iron

[Skoff]

Last night I was banging my head against the wall... I'm trying to cut out the hole in the veneer for the escutcheon, but it's just too darned fiddly. I'm going to have another go tonight, but I am seriously considering making a nice simple square escutcheon as a replacement. I have tried with dry and damp veneer, my craft knife is as sharp as Stephen Fry's wit, and I have been working slowly. Either the veneer cracks, or tears.

 

I know little holes can be covered over with French polishing, but I'm just not happy with the quality of the cuts I'm making.

[my63]

Hi Skoff

Are you trying to cut the hole before you stick the veneer down?

Have you tried masking tape around the edges of the cut?

Make a cardboard template of the top cut the hole in the cardboard then put it on the veneer and cut it out on a flat surface if you try to cut it over a hole it will split.

I stick the veneer down and then use my proxxon multi tool to grind out the excess very carefully.

I don't fill anything with French polish and sawdust always seems too light so I now chop up pieces of veneer especially if it is burr veneer.

 

I hope this helps

 

Regards

Michael