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Writing Slope Dilema


my63

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A little update from me...

 

I have now made a key for the lock and cleaned it up a bit. It went from this:

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1428_zps69ea4d1e.jpg

 

To this:

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/DSC_1431_zpse8109074.jpg

 

The barrel of the key was a little too narrow so I had to drill it out which caused a little split, but it is hardly noticeable, and now I know what size the key is I can easily make another if I find one a suitable size.

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Thanks Michael. Not much more progress on the veneer removal I'm afraid, Mrs Skoff and little Skofflette will only tolerate so much of me being out in the garage 'doing daddy stuff', so I can only work in shortish bursts on things like the veneer removal, which, as you rightly said is a job that needs to be done outside.

 

The new veneer arrived yesterday and looks great. It is relatively flat, but very brittle, so I think great care needs to be taken. If I get chance this weekend I will do a trial run and report back how it worked out.

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A little update from me...

 

I have now made a key for the lock and cleaned it up a bit. It went from this:

 

 

To this:

 

 

The barrel of the key was a little too narrow so I had to drill it out which caused a little split, but it is hardly noticeable, and now I know what size the key is I can easily make another if I find one a suitable size.

 

Skoff,

 

What did you do to clean that lock up?! Whatever if was, you did an amazing job :notworthy1:

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y331/fuchsiaprincess/Fuchsiaprincess_0001.jpg http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2010/036/2/2/Narnia_Flag_by_Narnia14.gif

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Thank you fuchsiaprincess for your very kind words... All that was involved was sandpaper, steel wool, Brasso and sore fingers.

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The leaves for the writing-box have been sanded down to fit their slots. But the wood is too thin. So we're gonna prop up inside the box, so that the leaves sit flush. Then comes the gluing of the fabric. We don't have leather, so we're gonna use suede or felt or something. I think REALLY old writing-boxes used to use velvet, but that stuff flakes and peels off over time, so I don't want to do that.

 

We're also wondering how to fix that broken piece on the top left corner. I think our best recourse is to trace out a triangular piece and slot it into place and glue it there. It's about all we can do.

http://www.throughouthistory.com/ - My Blog on History & Antiques

 

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If you remember last time I looked at the NESSR charity box it had been dropped by accident and I had used my iron to lift the dents from the wood structure below.

That left me with some issues with the veneer as you can see below.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/8840042511_b0f66ea8aa_z.jpg
IMG_3681 by my0771, on Flickr

 

These bubbles were caused by the glue in the areas seperated loosing adhesion to the veneer, The solution is rather drastic a very sharp blade is used to cut through the veneer to aollow the air out and glue in using one of these pallet knives

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/8840671979_a4703b8d5e_z.jpg
IMG_3682 by my0771, on Flickr

 

So I have cut through the veneer down the side of the bubble pushed some glue through the slot and then clamped it down.

You might ask why I did not use my iron to seal this veneer down? you might not but I am going to tell you anyway :)

Applying heat to veneer and wet glue dries out the glue applying heat to dry veneer causes it to loose moisture and shrink and crack.

 

If this does not work the veneer will have to be removed and the whole process started again :(

 

Thanks for looking

Michael

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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Ouch. Let's hope your approach works.

a fountain pen is physics in action... Proud member of the SuperPinks

fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pi

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Well in that case you tell me

 

I have placed a sanding block accross the two areas that had bubbled

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/8844136369_43eff82c95_z.jpg
IMG_3700 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I added a little dark wax to even out some of the colours and fill some of the smaller holes

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7456/8844414181_3fb472647e_z.jpg
IMG_3712 by my0771, on Flickr

 

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7388/8844408723_53b7c7cf34_z.jpg
IMG_3709 by my0771, on Flickr

 

The eagle eyed of you may have noticed that during this process I chipped a small piece of veneer from the area where the cartouche is to be placed.

I have started sanding the bottom section now.

 

Thanks for looking

Michael

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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Very nice!

 

I've measured, cut and sanded the extra supports for the writing-slope.

 

Next step: Staining them. Then letting them dry. Then gluing them onto the box. I might have to put in some putty or something to fill in some inconsistencies.

 

After that comes fitting on the leaves and covering them with reinforcing strips and the cloth covering...

http://www.throughouthistory.com/ - My Blog on History & Antiques

 

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Seems like you are making good progress Michael, and have recovered from your mishap. Also good to see some other chaps joining in!

 

I have now managed to get the rest off the veneer of my project box. I still have the residue of glue to remove, which I understand is best done with an old paintbrush and hot water. wish me luck!

 

Here are a couple of pictures of the box sans veneer and brass fittings:

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1436_zps251748f1.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1434_zps217fdd80.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1432_zps1e554324.jpg

 

After the glue is all off, I think I need to start thinking about what order to do the veneer or brass-work. I have most bits I need now, apart from the leather as I am still waiting for colour samples to be delivered.

Edited by Skoff
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Hi Skoff

It is comming on really well you have removed all of the veneer getting the remaining glue off is easier than that.

Once you have done that you need to check for splits and cracks.

I can see the cracks in the base the easiest way to fix them is to add a piece of plywood on the inside however as you have a secret compartment you would need to add it to the outside.

Has your veneer arrived yet?

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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Hi Michael,

Yes you are absolutely right the glue removal wasn't that bad at all, here is the box minus glue:

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1438_zps87d16fa4.jpg

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1439_zps7a1f622a.jpg

 

The bottom of the box is pretty badly split, I'm even considering replacing the whole thing, but will give the plywood sliver thing a go first. I also think I'm going to have to use some filler in some holes and splits where the screws were - It looks like they box has been restored before as there are holes where there should be none.

 

The veneer has indeed arrived. I have some rosewood for the sides and walnut for the front and top. I'm going to try it out on a spare bit of wood before I try on the real box. I've got quite a bit of surplus in case of any disasters.

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Yes it looks as good as I thought it would I love the boxes at this point.

Sorry Skoff its a sliver of wood or a piece of plywood accross the whole of the base which in this case is what I would do.

Ply accross the whole of the bas will help to make the box solid.

I also always remove screws and nails as they will rust and cause problems with the veneer, It might sound drastic but once removed I drill the holes out and fill the with dowel and glue.

 

I do love the brass edges on the box but I honestly think you should leave the brass off. Sorry.

Burr walnut can be trickey to cut it chips and cracks but looks stunning when done but there are some tricks that will help you.

Use masking tape where you are planning to cut I dont have a veneer saw but they are useful I use a stanley knife with a sharp blade scoring gently along a safety ruler 4 or 5 times.

If you are not planning on replacing the cartouche fill the hole with veneer then sand it flush.

Have you decided which method you are going to use to apply your veneer?

There is lots to pass on to you before you start applying veneer you will have a box to be proud.

Michael

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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Some good tips there Michael, thanks again.

 

The single plywood sheet on the bottom of the box seems like a much simpler fix, but I think I still need a way to hide the splits inside the box, any ideas on how to tackle that one? I suppose I could just line the inside with felt.

 

On the subject of the brass, I'm still undecided, but I am keen to at least add the brass corners I have and the thin wire inlay. The other designs round the edge may be a bit busy, and difficult, but I think I will get an idea how difficult it is to do when I make the cartouche. I am going to change the shape of the cartouche on top so your tip on using veneer to fill the hole is very helpful.

 

I am going to use the clamp method to apply the veneer, but my trial run may change my mind on that one.

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If you add anything inside the base you might effect the secret compartment opening.

When you have your cartouche made and have cut the new hole for it to get it flush with the veneer.

Cut the hole so the cartouche is level with the top before veneering then cut a piece of the veneer you are using for the top and glue it into the bottom of the hole this will raise the cartouche by the thickness of the veneer.

Hope that helps

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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HI Michael, I have just had a thought about adding a piece of plywood to the bottom of the box... Won't this make the box wobbly when it is open? Having looked at the panel where the secret drawers are concealed, I think adding wood inside the box will be OK as the panel doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the box, so there is a gap of a a couple of cm. I think some head scratching and tea is in order for this problem.

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Of course it would :headsmack: my appologies I looked back to Peters writing slope which is the one I thought I had done that too but in fact I had take the bottom out completely and replaced it.

 

If there is clearence then the inside option would be a good idea.

In my defence it was early this morning.

I agree more tea is always a good idea.

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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I am starting the brass work for the NESSR box

I am sure that you can imagine what a sheet of brass looks like.

So this is the next step

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3816/8916434152_892507af7d_z.jpg
IMG_3806_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

To get to this point I filled the ho;e in the box with electrical tape pushing it into the edges with a sharpened piece of dowel (pointy stick) trimming it to sizesticking it to a piece of card then cutting around it. I then put the card on the brass sheet and cut it out.

The twoi pieces need to be slightly different sizes I have drawn a thicker line around the right hand one when I file them down I will have one larger than the other.

 

Thanks for looking

Michael

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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