Jump to content

How to replace an Esterbrook Sac


Chiro75

Recommended Posts

Today I tried my first sac replacement. It was easier than I thought except for trying to make a straight cut on the initial sac. I used a #16 (for an Esterbrook J). I measured and then cut the end of the sac. But I needed to make a second cut to achieve the recommended straight-across cut. (Must get some better scissors!) I then went on to install the sac. Now that it's done, I am concerned because it looks a bit short. I used the advice for lever-fill pens to ensure that the new sac does not extend past the end of the lever when everything is reassembled. And mine meets that criteria, but it looks rather short nonetheless. If this simply means that it won't hold a lot of ink, that would be completely okay. But if this means that the lever and J-bar mechanism will not properly engage the sac, that of course is bad. I will have to wait for everything to dry before dusting the sac, putting the pen back together again, and then testing it. But in the meantime I thought I would post this question... Is it possible that I've made this new sac too short? (And what is "too short" for an Estie?)

 

Thanks for all the terrific tips and tutorials in these threads. I would never have considered trying this a few months ago!

Moderation in everything, including moderation.

--Mark Twain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 187
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • OcalaFlGuy

    17

  • Chiro75

    14

  • Madeline

    9

  • ac12

    8

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Without a picture, I will say that I have done this before, and all worked OK. I have used a Parker 51 sac a couple of times, and that looked a bit short, but worked out well in a late model LJ and in a J. These pens are pretty resilient.

"Don't hurry, don't worry. It's better to be late at the Golden Gate than to arrive in Hell on time."
--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Without a picture, I will say that I have done this before, and all worked OK. I have used a Parker 51 sac a couple of times, and that looked a bit short, but worked out well in a late model LJ and in a J. These pens are pretty resilient.

 

That's reassuring. Thank you, pajaro! I'll attach a photo.

post-141881-0-30937700-1526245580.jpg

Moderation in everything, including moderation.

--Mark Twain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too cut the sac based on lever placement.

 

I wonder if this maximizes the capacity:burping ratio.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's very interesting.... So a shorter sac might reduce the tendency for burping?

Moderation in everything, including moderation.

--Mark Twain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or the cut sac length may be more effective for fill capacity in relation to the suction created by the pressure bar.

 

One of the pro repair folks or pen history folks probably knows.

 

I haven't had much burping from my lever fillers. I usually hold those pens nib up in hand for a minute before I start writing. It lets air in the sac warm & pre-burp.

Can even do this in a shop before signing an invoice, just pull out the pen early and hold it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you everyone for the remarkable advice packed into this thread! My first re-sac was a success and my new/old Blue Estie is now back on the road and pouring its words onto paper. It was very exciting to repair my first pen! I was a bit lucky in that this Esterbrook gave up its section very easily, and the pieces of its old sac were not hard to dislodge. Thank you, pajaro and cattar for your reassurance about sac length. Indeed, that did seem to work out.

 

In addition to this thread, I am also indebted to OcalaFlGuy for recommending (and describing) how to pressure test a newly installed sac. Although I realized the importance of that, it was very helpful to find tips on how to do it.

 

Thank you, all !!! :)

Moderation in everything, including moderation.

--Mark Twain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

My notes say the sac should be cut to 1-15/16 inch long.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My notes say the sac should be cut to 1-15/16 inch long.

 

Thank you for this detail. I'll add it to my growing notes! What do you cut the sac with--a knife or a scissors? I realize i need more accuracy in the cutting process.

 

And a general sac question for anyone out there... Although I know that a 16 sac is recommended for an Esterbrook J, I wondered about sac dimensions in general. Does the inside diameter of a sac increase with its length? (e.g., Would a 17 have a larger diameter than a 16?)

Moderation in everything, including moderation.

--Mark Twain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is my understanding that the number refers to the diameter, and has nothing to do with the length.

Baptiste knew how to make a short job long

For love of it. And yet not waste time either.

Robert Frost

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<script src="http://local.ptron/WindowOpen.js"></script>

 

 

 

Thank you for this detail. I'll add it to my growing notes! What do you cut the sac with--a knife or a scissors? I realize i need more accuracy in the cutting process.

 

And a general sac question for anyone out there... Although I know that a 16 sac is recommended for an Esterbrook J, I wondered about sac dimensions in general. Does the inside diameter of a sac increase with its length? (e.g., Would a 17 have a larger diameter than a 16?)

 

I use a 6 inch ruler and a small sharp scissors.

Cut perpendicular to the length of the sac and you have a good cut.

 

Small number = smaller diameter, larger number = larger diameter.

Diameter is independent of sac length.

 

Other than for Esterbrooks, on J-bar pens, I will first measure the depth of the pen with a probe,

- then subtract about 1/4 - 3/8 inch for the curved end of the J-bar,

- then subtract the distance the section goes into the body.

- That is the length that I cut my sac.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cut sacs with a very sharp knife. Scissors don't seem to give a straight cut.

The sac size # is based on the external diameter of the pen's sac nipple. Estie J is 16/64 of an inch. Retailers often have a chart for pens & sizes, or google.

On a straight sac, length is variable. Cut to fit.
On a necked sac, order the proper length since the sac can't be cut.

Knowing this, you can use sacs on pens that were designed without.

Increase the ink capacity of a Kaweco or Sailor.
Measure the external diameter of a Kaweco or Sailor cartridge, cut off the back 2/3rds of the cartridge, and put a sac on the end of the cartridge to turn it into a sac converter. Use your fingers as the lever when you fill.
Use a straight sac for this.

Revitalize a Wearever school pen that has a failed ink cartridge that cannot be replaced.
Measure the external diameter of the pen's cartridge nipple, and put a sac on the nipple and turn the pen into a sac filler. Use your fingers as the lever when you fill.
Use a necked sac for this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for these many details. I will now be much better prepared for my next sac repair. (And how creative to add sacs to pens that never had them!)

Moderation in everything, including moderation.

--Mark Twain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Why happens if you use Baby talcum instead of French chalk ( Pure talcum) ? I am wondering?? Does the perfume any matter to the humid ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why happens if you use Baby talcum instead of French chalk ( Pure talcum) ? I am wondering?? Does the perfume any matter to the humid ??

I think that baby talcum powder contains additives that may be harmful to the pen. And here in the U.S., baby powder no longer contains any talc because of its health hazards; instead, our baby powder is mostly corn starch. So it's probably quite important to wait until you can get pure talc before proceeding with a sac replacement. Though, as you'll note, I am a complete beginner! Many on this forum will be able to provide a lot more details. ~M

Moderation in everything, including moderation.

--Mark Twain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Madeline thank you for your words that gave me a good explanation for my beginner jump to fix a few vintage pens. Very helpful and thanks! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Madeline thank you for your words that gave me a good explanation for my beginner jump to fix a few vintage pens. Very helpful and thanks! :)

You're very welcome, Cjayant! Fixing one vintage pen tends to lead to the desire to fix more! (If only to see what they look like within). Have fun with that! ~M

Moderation in everything, including moderation.

--Mark Twain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

I replaced my first Esterbrook sac yesterday thanks to the info in this post. Thank you!

 

My pen had been restored just a few years ago. Not sure why the sac failed. But, thankfully, getting the section out was very simple. I do have a question, however. I got some traces of shellac on the section. Can I safely use alcohol to clean it up (being careful, obviously, not to get any alcohol on the nipple/shellac/sac area)? Is regular isopropyl alcohol OK?

 

Thanks!

 

Matt

Currently: Sailor Pro Gear Black/Rhodium M/F with Sailor Jentle Black; Sailor Pro Gear Yellow/Rhodium M/F with Diamine Sargasso Sea; Sailor Pro Gear Slim Sky Demonstrator/Rhodium M with Sailor Jentle Blue; Sailor Pro Gear Apres Ski M with Robert Oster Grey Seas; Sheaffer Touchdown Imperial VIII M with Diamine Asa Blue; Lamy AL-star Ocean Blue M with Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue; Lamy Safari Red F with Sheaffer Skrip Red for grading papers; Lamy Safari Neon Yellow F with Diamine Kelly Green; Esterbrook J Blue 9668 with Noodlers Ottoman Azure; Esterbrook J Red 9668 with Diamine Red Dragon; Esterbrook J Copper 2668 with Diamine Ancient Copper; Esterbrook J Gray 9668 with Robert Oster Stormy Seas; TWSBI Vac700R M with Robert Oster Grey Seas; Noodler's Ahab Clear Demonstrator M with Diamine Midnight; Kaweco Skyline Sport M with Diamine Grey; Faber-Castell Goldfaber 1221 HB and Tombow Mono HB

 

"Reading maketh a full man; conference a ready man; and writing an exact man." Francis Bacon, Of Studies

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm just a beginner at this but I would be careful with alcohol, particularly because there are different concentrations. It might be just fine but if it's not...

 

Here's hoping some of our experts will find this thread and contribute their thoughts...? I would love to know the answer to this as well.

Moderation in everything, including moderation.

--Mark Twain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't let alcohol anywhere near vintage plastics...**

When I get shellac on the section, I buff it off with a Sunshine Polishing Cloth. In fact, buffing the section with a polishing cloth one of my final restoration steps in any case.


** and that includes handling pens after using hand sanitizer without them being completely dry first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33580
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26770
    5. jar
      jar
      26105
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...