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Servicing The Filler Of An Omas Extra Faceted



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I've got a leak at the section. And I've also got a crack in the feed case, or collar. But that crack wouldn't be related to a leak coming out the section threads would it? It seems that if I follow instructions to seal the section threads I should be fine.

 

It looks like any leak from the feed case (collar, tube) would be apparent only at the nib end, right? After all, the feed and feed case are both inside the section threads.

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I've got a leak at the section. And I've also got a crack in the feed case, or collar. But that crack wouldn't be related to a leak coming out the section threads would it? It seems that if I follow instructions to seal the section threads I should be fine.

 

It looks like any leak from the feed case (collar, tube) would be apparent only at the nib end, right? After all, the feed and feed case are both inside the section threads.

yes, due to a collar crack, ink might dribble out from the nib end but if the section is well sealed, there should be no ink from there.

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

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My MoMA is now apart, it had seized. Thank you!!

 

 

MoMA now re-assembled and working!! :)

well done!

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

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  • 5 months later...

I am new to Omas pens and have only recently been able to discover the beauty and writing of these pens. Last week I received two older Omas extra pens NOS, while flushing the pens today, one of the pens spat out a bit of ink from the piston knob end. So I decided to investigate and fix the filler. Here are the pictures:

 

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii197/hari317/Omas/IMG_4344.jpg

 

The section can be unscrewed from the front. After removing section, unscrew the piston knob all the way, the piston seal with the spindle will come out from the section end of the pen. The piston knob will come out from the distal end.

 

The Piston seal on spindle, faceted barrel and the filler knob.

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii197/hari317/Omas/IMG_4347.jpg

 

One side of the piston rod has a rectangular linear guide which mates with an anti rotation key fixed on the inside of the barrel, a very simple design:

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii197/hari317/Omas/IMG_4349.jpg

 

There was absolutely no lubricant on the piston seal and the spindle threads. There was some mineral oil like substance on the filler knob threads. I used silicone grease on the piston seal and the spindle.

 

Omas, I found, uses the vintage MB type "feeder case" arrangement to hold the nib and feeder together. A very well made nib. Excellently shaped tip and tapered slit with proper slit gap, all this out of the box! No tuning was required.

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii197/hari317/Omas/IMG_4345.jpg

 

Notice the 50's MB like slots on the feeder case.

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii197/hari317/Omas/IMG_4346.jpg

 

However I did not have to use any tools to disassemble the pen. I used Silicone grease at the section threads and for lubing the piston. Ideally a section sealant should be used at the section threads but I did not have any at hand.

 

The piston filler is simple and hence has its own shortcomings. There is no backlash in the filler mechanism so inadvertent movement of the filler knob has the capability to hork out ink.

 

In case the piston seal fails completely and no spares are available, I guess the pen can be used as an ED by sealing the piston filler knob.

 

I hope this will be useful for folks who will face a leaking piston seal.

 

Cheers!

Hari

 

 

Hari thanks for this visual. Regarding the 50's MB like slots on the feeder case do you think that is a design that insists on a special tool to get the feeder case out of the section? I think you were able to unscrew the feeder case without a tool but I don't want to risk a breakage. Can I jerry-rig something with two points that can fit in those two tiny slots? I am think maybe a drafting tool like a compass tool with two points????

Edited by classenigma
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The Good Captain

I've since had my other two Omas pens apart and sorted out their respective pistons etc. Only had silicone grease so haven't used anything else for the section threads but I've had no leaks so far.

The Good Captain

"Meddler's 'Salamander' - almost as good as the real thing!"

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yes, due to a collar crack, ink might dribble out from the nib end but if the section is well sealed, there should be no ink from there.

I think I have a similar collar crack on the feed case. My pen is an D-Day pen. Are the collars/feed cases standard for a lot of Omas pens and therefore available? I would like to send the pen to someone in North America to fix rather than a long journey back to Omas. Any suggestions?

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I think I have a similar collar crack on the feed case. My pen is an D-Day pen. Are the collars/feed cases standard for a lot of Omas pens and therefore available? I would like to send the pen to someone in North America to fix rather than a long journey back to Omas. Any suggestions?

 

Yeah the nibs/collars are standard from a certain period onward.

 

Contact Mottishaw: http://www.nibs.com/

Anyone becomes mannered if you think too much about what other people think. (Kim Gordon)

 

Avatar photography by Kate

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Is there a process for putting the nib and feed back together? Does the feed case have to be unscrewed first and then screwed in with the nib and feed in it? Or can the nib and feed be pushed into the nib case with the case already screwed into section?

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  • 2 months later...

I just tried this technique, and it worked for the most part! But upon putting it all back together the filler knob will not screw all the way back in? There is about a 1/8 or 1/16 gap, but no ink comes out thru this gap! AND the piston rides nice and smoothly, whereas before it was a rough ride!

 

My only mistake in taking the piston area apart? Was not using heat on the know as it was a bear to get apart! Using heat in hinsite would have made the job much easier :-) It is still such a tight fit.....

Edited by Chi Town

Mike

Visconti Last Lira aka Luigi Einaudi #63 of 975, Stipula Yellow Da Vinci Carbon Fiber T, Stipula Model T, Vintage Fountain Pens, Delta Amerigo Vespucci LE, Pelikan Special Edition Sahara F/P, TWSBI Micarta, Danitrio Mikado, Genkai, Nakaya Decapod Cigar, Watley in Woodgrain, Marlen Yellow Liberty LE, Santa FE Style Custom "51" made by Ralph Prather, president New Mexico Pen Collector's Club.

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I just tried this technique, and it worked for the most part! But upon putting it all back together the filler knob will not screw all the way back in? There is about a 1/8 or 1/16 gap, but no ink comes out thru this gap! AND the piston rides nice and smoothly, whereas before it was a rough ride!

 

My only mistake in taking the piston area apart? Was not using heat on the know as it was a bear to get apart! Using heat in hind site would have made the job much easier :-) It is still such a tight fit.....

I ran into the same gap thing. I took it apart several times before it fit back nicely(with some jiggling) into place without a gap.

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I just tried this technique, and it worked for the most part! But upon putting it all back together the filler knob will not screw all the way back in? There is about a 1/8 or 1/16 gap, but no ink comes out thru this gap! AND the piston rides nice and smoothly, whereas before it was a rough ride!

 

My only mistake in taking the piston area apart? Was not using heat on the know as it was a bear to get apart! Using heat in hinsite would have made the job much easier :-) It is still such a tight fit.....

If the knob sticks out, then you have to engage the knob first with the barrel by threading it into the barrel upto the same distance that it was sticking out earlier. With that done, engage the piston shaft with the knob, by inserting the piston shaft from the section end into the pen. Now thread the knob home and all will be good.

 

HTH

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

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Thank you, hari. I always appreciate your informative posts.

Écrire c’est tenter de savoir ce qu’on écrirait si on écrivait. – M. Duras

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  • 2 months later...

Very useful for OMAS pens, and the before-picture notion is both simple and so obvious I never thought of it... So, thank you twice!

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Thank you, hari. I always appreciate your informative posts.

 

 

Very useful for OMAS pens, and the before-picture notion is both simple and so obvious I never thought of it... So, thank you twice!

 

 

Thank you, I am glad the post continues to be useful.

 

Regards

Hari

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

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  • 6 months later...
dragos.mocanu

Excellent resource, thank you Hari!

"The truth may be puzzling. It may take some work to grapple with. It may be counterintuitive. It may contradict deeply held prejudices. It may not be consonant with what we desperately want to be true. But our preferences do not determine what's true..." (Carl Sagan)

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