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Highbinder

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Oh God!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

So many beautiful and really captivating nibs. One can spend so much time in looking at these beauties, vintage and modern.

 

Thanks All!

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I've just read all 25 pages of this thread. It's full of beautiful photos of nibs. But unfortunately, nearly all of the photos show the top of the nib, which normally never touches the paper. But so much more is learned from the side or bottom view. Here are some examples taken from this thread.

 

The first photo, with a round bottom is a nib that is typical of most pens. It works at a wide range of angles (between pen and paper) and may, in fact, give good feedback for penmanship. It touches the paper in a small region and has more drag than the second photo.

 

The second photo has a flat spot which contacts the paper and when the pen is held at the angle intended by the maker;

 

"This tip presents a very smooth flat foot to the paper making possible a hydroplane effect as it glides on a layer of ink."

http://www.nibs.com/OmasNibsPage.htm

 

These two nibs give very different performance. But the difference is not revealed by top views of the nib.

 

So, my plea to all of you nib photo posters: "Please show us the side view, and the bottom too. That reveals so much of how the pen writes"

 

Regards,

Alan

post-125012-0-06264100-1443990832_thumb.jpg

post-125012-0-67563900-1443991041.jpg

Edited by Precise
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Here are two more photos of a flat bottom nib:

 

post-125012-0-79253600-1443992360_thumb.jpg

 

This nib is very broad and pretty flat.

 

post-125012-0-71546700-1443992410.jpg

 

This photo borrowed from nibs.com

 

"This tip presents a very smooth flat foot to the paper making possible a "hydroplane" effect as it glides on a layer of ink."

http://www.nibs.com/OmasNibsPage.htm

Edited by Precise
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  • 2 weeks later...

I've just read all 25 pages of this thread. It's full of beautiful photos of nibs. But unfortunately, nearly all of the photos show the top of the nib, which normally never touches the paper. But so much more is learned from the side or bottom view. Here are some examples taken from this thread.

 

The first photo, with a round bottom is a nib that is typical of most pens. It works at a wide range of angles (between pen and paper) and may, in fact, give good feedback for penmanship. It touches the paper in a small region and has more drag than the second photo.

 

The second photo has a flat spot which contacts the paper and when the pen is held at the angle intended by the maker;

 

"This tip presents a very smooth flat foot to the paper making possible a hydroplane effect as it glides on a layer of ink."

http://www.nibs.com/OmasNibsPage.htm

 

These two nibs give very different performance. But the difference is not revealed by top views of the nib.

 

So, my plea to all of you nib photo posters: "Please show us the side view, and the bottom too. That reveals so much of how the pen writes"

 

Regards,

Alan

Dear Alan,

 

I agree. You are right.

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  • 3 months later...

Before & after Pendleton Brown.

 

Original Kaweco 14K factory BB nib:

 

 

Pendleton Point 0.9 mm stub:

 

 

My new Kaweco Dia2 was bought in Canada, its gold nib was shipped from the UK. & the complete pen was then sent to Pendleton Brown.

A long, complicated two month process, but definitely worth the wait.

It's one of the best stubs I own.

(If only Kaweco's feed system would be less cranky.)

 

 

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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I've just read all 25 pages of this thread. It's full of beautiful photos of nibs. But unfortunately, nearly all of the photos show the top of the nib, which normally never touches the paper. But so much more is learned from the side or bottom view.

 

 

 

 

So, my plea to all of you nib photo posters: "Please show us the side view, and the bottom too. That reveals so much of how the pen writes"

 

Regards,

Alan

I also agree.

Please excuse the poor quality "schmart" phone image.

 

Dreaded baby's bottom was found on the stock Kaweco (P. Bock) nib, but the Pendleton-Point grind eliminated this problem. This 0.9 mm stub has become a perfect writer.

(I'll try to take a closeup of the bottom of the tipping.)

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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Before & after Pendleton Brown.

 

Original Kaweco 14K factory BB nib:

attachicon.gifKaweco BB 1-1.jpg

 

Pendleton Point 0.9 mm stub:

attachicon.gifKaweco 14 K PP stub-1.jpg

 

My new Kaweco Dia2 was bought in Canada, its gold nib was shipped from the UK. & the complete pen was then sent to Pendleton Brown.

A long, complicated two month process, but definitely worth the wait.

It's one of the best stubs I own.

(If only Kaweco's feed system would be less cranky.)

 

 

I would guess from the photo that the original was literally too wet to use. Did you try it prior to the work?

 

I bought a new Omas recently that came like this. I closed the gap before trying it.

 

Alan

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I would guess from the photo that the original was literally too wet to use. Did you try it prior to the work?

 

I bought a new Omas recently that came like this. I closed the gap before trying it.

 

Alan

You are right, this Kaweco nib was a misaligned gusher. :(

 

I gave the nib a thorough inspection with a 10X loupe & saw not only the baby's bottom but also that one of the tines was slightly twisted. My original plan was to send this gold nib off to be reground anyway, even if the nib would have written beautifully, right out of the box.

 

I have little love for conventional ball-tipped BB nibs, but wide grade edged-nibs that have been properly ground are another matter.

Pendleton did an excellent job on this stub.

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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Tried posting a side view of my Kaweco 585 0.9 mm stub, but it did not want to upload. Then I realized that I have maxed out my image attachments.

After a little house cleaning, here's a couple of side views.

 

 

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

The shape is unusual but the performance is, in a word, fantastic. This small "Flügelfeder" BB nib writes like a custom stub.

 

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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