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  1. yazeh

    Super5 - Delhi

    Super5- Delhi I personally would not appreciate receiving a letter with this ink with an Ef nib, however, I enjoyed using this ink for art projects. It is my understanding that the inks were originally made by Roherer and Klingner and used the same bottles, but the packaging has changed and now the inks come in 30 ml bottles. What surprised me was the amount of ink stuck in the transparent section of pilot Kakuno, which I had forgotten in water for 3 days. It needed a pen flush to remove it. It’s no biggy in my book, but it might be for some. Ink is very well behaved and works well on copy paper with most nibs. If you want a slightly reddish waterproof orange go for Carmen, which is easily available in North America and cheaper. Chroma Writing samples: It really well behaved on Hammermill, the only bleed though was with heavy handed flexing Photo: Comparison: Watertest: (Nothing budged) And finally an artwork: Castle, This was part of the inktober challenge, it gave me the opportunity to use Super5-Delhi (rigtht) and R&K Sketchink Carmen (Left) The idea was of walls we built around our selves... The blue ink is Herbin Bleu Nuit.... · Pens used: Pilot Kakuno Ef, Kaweco Sport (EF/F/M/B/1.9), Kanwrite with an Ahab nib · What I liked: Nice bright orange colour. · What I did not like: Price, availability in North America, and cleaning, dryness · What some might not like: Same as above. · Shading: No, only with very wide nibs… · Ghosting: No. · Bleed through: No. · Flow Rate: Medium · Lubrication: Slightly below average, especially with Ef nibs. · Nib Dry-out: No. · Start-up: No. · Saturation: No. · Shading Potential: Dismal. · Sheen: No. · Spread / Feathering / Woolly Line: No. · Nib Creep / “Crud”: No. · Staining (pen): No. · Clogging: No. · Cleaning: It needs a cleaning solution. · Water resistance: Excellent · Availability: 30 ml /Cartridges Please don't hesitate to share your experience, writing samples or any other comments. The more the merrier
  2. De Atramentis Document Cyan According to Oxford Dictionary, cy·an | ˈsīən, ˈsīˌan | noun a greenish-blue color which is one of the primary subtractive colors, complementary to red. ORIGIN late 19th century: from Greek kuaneos ‘dark blue’. There's no green in the Chroma: I dislike this ink. As a blue it has no character. The colour blue, despite its connotation, make me happy. This one, no. Normally, when I finish a review, I enjoy taking notes until the ink is finished. This one and its Artist Cyan sibling, when down the drain, right after. Pity such a lovely vibrant blue, looks so fad on paper. Maybe it's only saving grace, is filling vials / bottles and lining them on a shelf 😛 I am used to badly behaving permanent inks by several brands, especially you know who brand I manage to tame them by using a drier pen, finer or sometimes wider nib, good paper, or all the above. This ink loves to ghost and bleed on anything paper. It’s the ultimate Alien/ Borg for paper. It can rejoin Artist Turquoise for the Razzie awards in inks. However, It's the only ink that can dry on Tomoe River 68 gr in less than 2 seconds. I've never seen anything like that.. I didn't bother using a flex nib. It was pointless. Ironically, Rhodia fared decently. While it bleeds, ghosting is acceptable. I cannot recommend it for writing. You can probably tame it, with a dry pen, and a light touch on Rhodia, if you insist. If you like the colour, get a sample of Artist Cyan. It’s slightly better. Here's a comparison. My apologies for the upside down swatches. Top Right is Kakimori Karari. Bottom Right is Monteverde Horizon Blue. · Pens used: Pilot Kakuno (Ef) Lamy Safari (Ef/F/M), Jinhao 450 Fude nib · What I liked: Very fast dry time. · What I did not like: Bleeding/ghosting through everything. Colour is flat. Ink is too wet. · Shading: None · Ghosting: On every single paper. · Bleed through: Same as above. · Flow Rate: Excellent · Lubrication: Excellent · Nib Dry-out: None. · Start-up: None. · Saturation: Saturated · Shading Potential: None · Sheen: None. · Spread / Feathering / Woolly Line: Yes · Nib Creep / “Crud”: Yes. · Staining (pen): Yes. It did stain my Pilot Section only, however, after 6 hours of soaking, the stain was removed. Convertors were fine. · Clogging: No Please don't hesitate to share your experience, writing samples or any other comments. The more the merrier
  3. yazeh

    Noodler's Dostoyevsky

    Noodler's Dostoyevsky is a bulletproof ink, belonging to the Russian series. Note Russian series are more expensive than Noodler's normal line up. After the De Atramentis Artist/ Document Cyan and Turquoise disaster reviews, I was weary of trying another permanent blue. To my surprise Noodler’s Dostoyevsky was “quite good” compared to the above, i.e. it's very usable with the good pen/ paper combo. A bit about Dostoyevsky (1821-1881). He’s one the greatest, if not greatest Russian novelist of all times. His mother died when he was young and his father, a doctor was killed by one his surfs, when he was about 17, about which time his epileptic attacks started. It marked his literature. In his youth he was condemned to death by firing squad, for belonging to a political movement. His sentence was commuted at the last moment (detailed in his novel, The idiot )to 4 years in Siberia, which were described in the harrowing The House of the Dead. Dostoyevsky was addicted to Gambling, , which inspired his Gambler. His masterpiece Crime and Punishment, about a young man who commits murder for all the good reasons, and his magnum opus The Brothers Karamazov, which I haven't read. Now for the ink. This is a legible turquoise ink. I enjoyed journaling many pages with it. I forgive a lot of things in permanent inks. What I don’t like are long dry times and bleed through. This ink fares quite well. It’s not a perfect ink. Far from that. It’s not very lubricated. So, if you don’t like feedback and use Ef/F nibs it's not for you. I enjoyed it best with Safari M/B nibs. It can create wooly lines if feed is primed, nib B/ Double broad. This ink needs good paper. There's some faint ghosting on Tomoe River but it worked flawlessly on Rhodia and Midori. However, I won't recommend it with a wet stub/ fude nib. It'll bleed through. Also, with the semi-flex, I really pushed it to the limit and there was some bleed through. Would I buy a bottle? If I wanted a permanent turquoise, maybe. Writing samples: All quotes are by Dostoyevsky. You can see it doesn't like very much Hammermill White, 20lb paper. These lines were written with EF/F/M nibs. Watertest: Left side was held under running water. A bit of ink was washed out. But most of the ink stayed put. As usual I had some fun doing a little sketch. This is done on a Fabriano Watercolor paper. It was inspired by a Gaube Lake, a high altitude Lake in the Pyrenees, France. Inks used Sky: Kakimori Karari for the sky Gutenberg Urkundentinten G!0 IG ink Kakimori Kurun And Dostoyevsky for the lake. I use a bit of bleach on Dostoyevsky. Where you see a small triangle on the right side. Under UV light, the triangle changes colour. If I get around to it, I'll post some photos and comparison with other turquoises. · Pens used: Pilot Elite (Ef) Lamy Safari (Ef/F/M/B), Soennecken Schulfuller S4, Jinhao 450 Fude nib · What I liked: Writing with a medium/stub nibs. Easy cleaning for most pens. · What I did not like: I like turquoise in general, but not for inks. · What some might not like: Woolly lines with broad nibs. Relative dryness. It needs good paper. Longish dry time. · Shading: Not much. · Ghosting: I would say, it was more than acceptable on good paper. · Bleed through: Yes, on cheap paper · Flow Rate: Excellent · Lubrication: Dryish. It’s best with Medium/ Broad nibs. · Nib Dry-out: None. · Start-up: None. · Saturation: Not saturated. · Shading Potential: Faint · Sheen: None. · Spread / Feathering / Woolly Line: Yes, a primed broad nib on some papers. · Nib Creep / “Crud”: No. · Staining (pen): No · Clogging: No. · Cleaning: Quite easy. Though, I would put it in a pen where you can take the section a part. · Water resistance: Very good. The excess ink came off, but the rest was stable. · Availability: 3 oz/90 ml bottles. Please don't hesitate to share your experience, writing samples or any other comments. The more the merrier
  4. I picked these Tombow AirPress ballpoint pens up, as a novelty, recently for roughly AUD 5.40 each‡. The writing instrument's technical design is pretty clever. Instead of using refills that are pressurised during manufacture, like those used in the Fisher Space Pen, the Tombow AirPress ballpoint pen leverages the force applied by the user on the ‘knock’ mechanism that deploys the retractable pen tip, to pressurise the ink chamber on the fly. Filled with an oil-based ink, this product promises (on its retail packaging, marketing images, etc.) to allow rapid writing, write even on wet paper and/or when the page is unsupported from below or when the writing surface is vertical. I just tried writing an entire English paragraph — in a cursive hand, as well as my other, normal handwriting style — on a notebook that I held up with the page facing down, and the pen's tip pointing up, and this pen proved up to the task. The product comes in a variety of colours, and even has a demonstrator version as well as a ‘stealth-look’ version. The barrels on the opaque models are rubbery, and are possibly apt to deteriorate and become tacky to the touch in several years' time. (I'm not sure about the material of the clear barrel, since I haven't opened it yet.) As for the pen's writing output, at first I was apprehensive that the stated, nominal 0.7mm line width would be too wide for my preferences in any sort of everyday application of putting pen to paper. However, the pen actually proved to write as finely as a Japanese EF nib, in fountain pen terms; and it can probably do so in a damn Moleskine notebooks, without being subject to the pitfalls of feathering, etc. All in all, a satisfying purchase for the price, something that could just be tossed into a knapsack as a just-in-case writing instrument and not worry about the jostling or rough and tumble to which it'd be subjected. ‡ Including incremental delivery charges, but not any apportioned international shipping ‘flagfall’ charge for the order, from Amazon Japan.
  5. Hello my fellow fountain pen lovers. I love rich, vivid, deeply saturated fountain pen inks, particularly those that shade. My favorite inks are Colorverse Supernova, that shades gorgeously from a rich blue to a lighter blue, and Diamine November Rain, which in my green-and-black Pelikan M600, shades (you guessed it) from green to black beautifully. For my Lamy 2000, which I just bought to be my daily-use pocket pen, I’m searching for a waterproof ink for a specific reason: so when I sign restaurant checks with it, there is no danger of the waiter losing his tip because his check slip got wet and the ink disappeared. But my dillemma is that I love saturated, vivid inks. With one exception, all the waterproof inks I’ve tried are cloudy and unsaturated and unsatisfying. I just bought a bottle of Sailor Seiboku. To me, this is a pale, cloudy ink, the opposite of the rich, saturated colors I love. And iron gall inks are generally dry writers, so that’s a nonstarter. Got to have a wet ink. The exception is Noodler’s Baltimore Canyon Blue, which is saturated and beautiful, and in my own tests is fully waterproof, but… when I write on restaurant checks with this ink, the pen simply stops writing and has to be primed. The ink seems to react to the thermal paper restaurants use and it clogs right up. Thanks in advance for your advice! GNL
  6. I went to an estate sale this morning (one of those "you have to get up at 0 dark 30 and hope you're one of the first 25 people in line" sales) because in one of the photos for the listing I spotted what looked like MIGHT be a box for vintage Pelikan ink. Unfortunately, they only had a picture of one side of the box, which said (under the Pelikan logo and imprint) "AUSZUEH TUSCHE" and then in very small letters "PERLTUSCHE" and then the color indication "SCHWARZ". I ended up buy the bottle, which was mostly full small 1 oz. bottle with a tall skinny neck. The English language side of the box says "Pelikan WATERPROOF DRAWING INK". So presuming that it *might* be India ink but not precisely sure (the other two sides of the box are in, respectively, Spanish, and French). There's a sticker on the Spanish language side of the box which says, "TN" and then next to that in smaller letters, "for ACETATE, TRACING LINEN, PLASTICS." On the bottom of the box there is a number on a circle which says "517" and above the circle says "[illegible] D'ALLEMAG" [illegible] which I expect is the German version of what it says in English below the circle: "MADE IN GERMANY". Clearly not something to stick in (most) fountain pens (there was a ruling pen on the box, but I probably still have mine from college in a drawer someplace, and hated the thing so much I'd be hard pressed to come up with a reason to use it). The reason I say "most" though is that a couple of years ago (at an estate sale of someone in my neighborhood who apparently been an artist and illustrator) I picked up an Osmiroid "India ink" pen, which came with a gadget to pull the nib or feed for more thorough cleaning. There is also a sticker on the bottle itself, which gives instructions (in English) how to prep acetate or plastic as a writing surface (along with how to dilute the ink with "Pelikan Thinner V" and notices to read the [long gone] instructions and to "BEWARE OF FROST" So my questions are these: 1) Is this ink actually India ink? 2) Would this be safe to try in that Osmiroid I've got, or is this a dip pen/ruling pen ONLY ink? No pix, sorry -- it'a after midnight here, and even with a three hour nap this afternoon, I'm not caught up on my sleep (especially after a couple of very stressful days), and I haven't figured out how to upload photos with the new format for the site yet. Thanks in advance. Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth
  7. Rohrer and Klingner sketchINK® Jule These pigmented inks are purported to be both lightfast and waterproof and are designed for sketching. Jule is la lighter version of Super5 Australia. Truly delightful both on Midori and TR 68, the papers I use most often, but equally great on all types of paper. Tomoe River 6 8gr Midori Dry time in my experience is on the longer side. However, it can be mitigated with finer nibs, drier pens or more absorbent paper. I prefer this series with modern flex, or wide nibs where I get more character out of these inks. However, it is imperative to use pens with a good seal, otherwise you need dip your nib under water to keep it running again. • Pen used: Noodler’s Ahab, Lamy Safari broad • Shading: Yes • Ghosting: None • Bleed through: None. • Flow Rate: Good. Austalia is wetter. • Lubrication: Nice • Nib Dry-out: Depending the pen. Needs well sealed pens. • Start-up: If not used it can dry out, in pens with high evaporation. • Saturation: Dusky • Shading Potential: With broad and flex. • Sheen: No • Spread / Feathering / Woolly Line: None. • Nib Creep / “Crud”: None • Staining (pen): I use a pen cleaning solution for the feeds. • Clogging: Nope • Water resistance: Waterproof • Availability: Only in bottle 50 ml bottles.
  8. Simulacrum

    The Blue Blues! Help Please :)

    Hi everyone, so I've read a bunch and researched and have narrowed things down but I'm still having difficulty so I'm hoping for some help. I've narrowed it down to (I think) Sailor Sei Boku, and Noodlers 54th Mass., Bad Blue Heron, Bad Belted Kingfisher. I've a few questions I can't seem to resolve after checking out as much as I can find about these inks. I'm looking for a waterproof, archival ink that is a blue black colour. These all seem to fit the bill, but there seems to be some differences of opinion and differences in test results on the waterproofness of the Noodlers Inks. It seems to be based on the cellulose content of the paper from what I can tell? Is there a way to figure out the cellulose content of a paper before buying it ? I've looked a bit online for the papers I have but haven't been able to figure it out (Strathmore 300 series Bristol ) Canson Sketch (the popular one on amazon - side note - decent paper for fountain pens in my opinion). I have some Tomoe River paper ordered about a month ago -should be here soon. So thoughts on: 1. The colour - I can't seem to find colour samples of them in the same photo - to eliminate different camera settings/ white balances etc.. I have Platinum Pigment Blue and love the colour when it's wet and dark, but not as much the more watery looking finished product. It's ok though but don't love it. I have a Diamine 1864 blue black that looks awesome but it's not waterproof obviously. How do the colours compare to each other? I keep reading different things. Are they sufficiently different to warrant owning all of them ? If you could only have one blue black permanent, waterproof ink which one would it be ? The Noodlers seem to get complaints about feathering more than the Sailor. True ? Also, the Noodlers seem to be different colours bottle to bottle from what I'v read. I don't love that idea. Any other thoughts or opinions on this would be great. Leaning Sei Boku - Thanks.
  9. So I've been playing around with a few different inks in my Pilot Metropolitan with a F nib. I really love the nib for being able to write in tight spaces, but I am travelling to a monsoon region during monsoon season. This means I must have a waterproof ink, as I'll be writing pages and pages and I want to be sure I don't lose them in a downpour. So far I have loved the way the my Pilot behaves with Diamine and J. Herbin inks - nice fine line and amazing flow (I'd say the J.Herbin is the winner in that comparison) BUT when I use a waterproof ink, the line is suddenly double the thickness and the ink creeps all over the place. I've tried Noodler's Heart of Darkness and La Reine Mauve, as well as Rohrer and Klingner's Dokumentus in Hellblau Before I invest in another bottle or a riot of samples, I thought I'd see what everyone over here has to say on the matter. Have you had any success with specific inks that are waterproof while still keeping a fine line? I'd love to get rid of the nib creep too, but the line thickness is more important, as I'll be marking up texts and making notes on my own notes in the margins pretty regularly.
  10. We're very excited to release our first waterproof Blackstone ink. Barrister Black is a well behaved, pure black, nano carbon ink that is 100% waterproof, fade proof and is highly resistant to bleach, alcohol and acid. Barrister Black comes packaged in in 30ml HDPE Nalgene bottles. If any Australian FPN members would like a free sample for review please email me at kevin@justwrite.com.au You can see a review by dcwaites HERE Barrister Black is now available at JustWrite in Australia and will soon be available at Anderson Pens in the US and at Appelboom in Europe. http://justwrite.com.au/image/cache/catalog/products/Blackstone%20Ink/barrister-black-waterproof-fountain-pen-ink-1100x619.jpg
  11. Noodler's amazes me. The color options, the shading, the water resistance (some-but-not-all inks). I have nothing but respect for Mr. Tardif. This thread is one of wonderment, amazement, and homage. One thing that irritates me, however, is that he does not offer a true bulletproof CYMK set (with the obvious exception of Black.) This means that the inks I want to make for myself won't be bulletproof. And bulletproofness is a sticking point for me, or at least water resistance. (I don't write anything worth forging anyway, so for the time being let's throw out bleach/acetone/ammonia/..... resistance.) So for the chemists in the room: how can one make a water-resistant, dye-based ink? The dye retailers I've called don't think it can be done. (They mostly retail to cloth dyers, so their lack of expertise in inks isn't surprising, but cellulose reactivity is cellulose reactivity; all cellulose-reactive dyes I've come across require activation with a base like soda ash or NaOH, and then are unstable in a bottle. ) The closest I've come to an explanation of Tardif's dyes on this forum is this: Unfortunately I saved the quote but not the link in my notes. I believe Chemyst stepped in and countered that yes, they are reactive dyes. We know that water resistant CYMK inks are possible, because De Atramantis makes them too. (Unfortunately they're very expensive here in the US.) So. Who wants to take a stab? What makes Bulletproof Black so bulletproof? How can one make a water resistant ink from a dye base? I'll offer some clues, or at least properties of Noodler's that I've noticed: --He offers (at least partially) water resistant blacks, and purples, and browns. (Though usually the water resistant component is black...) --He DOESN'T offer truly water resistant yellows or oranges. (Operation Overlord*) --He USED TO offer essentially CYMK inks from I think Swishers (Goldfinch for yellow, which he was "permanently sold out of" at one point, Hellbender Red, Brittania's Blue Waves -- see the Noodler's CYMK thread). He no longer does so. Is this lack of interest, or a change in availability, or....? --Noodler's likes to form bubbles in my bottles, indicating he uses A LOT of surfactant. This is also evidenced by the degree to which it nib creeps. So far I've: --Done patent searches related to inks (I still haven't found a single patent related to fountain pen inks; the ONE I was able to find seemed to talk about a "ball point fountain pen ink" which was odd.) There are lots of patents related to inkjets and ball points, but none specifically related to FPs. Most of the inkjet patents are pigment-related, but not all. --Done MSDS searches for major ink makers. I've learned some about what other stuff goes in ink, but the only actual dye I've found was a direct dye used in Pilot's rollerball inks. --Called Pro Chemical and Dye, DharmaTrading, and Keystone; the first 2 have no idea what I'm talking about (and think it's impossible); the last hasn't called me back yet. --Done general dye research, especially at . A list of threads worth reading if this topic encuriouses you too: Fabric Dye as a Basis for Ink: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/269610-fabric-dye-as-a-basis-for-ink/ Make Your Own Ink https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/2183-make-your-own-ink/ The Open Source Ink Project: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/227894-open-source-ink-project/ Physics Articles Related to FPs: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/288121-fountain-pen-ink-behaviour-fountain-pen-physics-journal-articlesreferences/ Mixing Glycerine In Ink: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/257406-mixing-glycerine-in-ink/ Surfactants in Ink for Improved Flow: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/229403-surfactants-in-ink-for-improved-flow/ So.... thoughts?
  12. I have tried looking everywhere for this but seem to find it nowwhere. Can I put waterproof ink into a Lamy Safari fountain pen? Also what is the best type of ink for this pen? Thank you for your time!
  13. I have been using a Hero 100 flighter at work for several reasons, I do a lot of math and calculations, with the dreaded many-tens-of-seconds pauses between writing, and the hooded nib works great for that. I found at walgreens drugstore (in USA) a Timesmart Note Book, which is I think 100 pages, a light grid on one side, and simple college ruled lines on the other side of every sheet. The sheets even have a uniform perforation so you can tear out an important page if the need arises. I was using Waterman Blue Ink, which works great for writing on this paper, but alas it does not fair well with any drops of water. So I did some research, and here's my answer (for the time being). Platinum Pigment Blue Ink. It is 100% waterproof, and dries very fast. The only issue is that it is a pigmented ink so pen maintenance is critical. To support the pen maintenance I got the special tool for the hero 100 that allows you to disassemble the nib and feed, so I can really give it a good cleaning once a month or so. I got the tool from the seller "yespen", it came very quickly. What I found with the Pigment Blue ink is that it is not nearly as saturated as the Waterman Blue. But it still serves my functional needs nicely. As far as the pen goes, with either ink the performance has been flawless. I'll report back here after the first cleaning to let you all know how that goes. (sorry for the small image here, I can't seem to make it take the original version of this next image... )
  14. I was reading the "What Pens Are You Using At Work This Week" thread and noticed that many members do not use waterproof ink at work. This puzzles me, as I make it a point to only use fully waterproof ink at work like Noodler's 54th, Noodler's Black, and Sailor Nano-black. I once spilled a cup of coffee on an assignment written in completely non-waterproof ink (Diamines, Iroshizukus, etc) and vowed never to make the same mistake. I'm curious to know whether you primarily use waterproof ink at work. Please only consider your main ink (even if you rotate, think about the ones you usually rotate between). For instance, I primarily use 54th Mass but keep pens filled with Diamine Oxblood and Sailor Apricot for highlighting purposes. I would mark "Fully Waterproof ink" on the first question and "Yes" on the second. Oh, and please feel free to write a bit about why you use the inks you use at work! (I honestly never thought I would use my social science training in survey design for a fountain pen related post...)
  15. Hi all, I'm a new member and I apologise if I'm posting this in the incorrect forum. Please let me know if there are other forums that would suit my question better... I have some old ink bottles with dried ink inside. I was wondering if it would be possible to dilute or reconstitute them so I could use them. I realize that the quality mightn't be great but I'd just use them for practice and doodles. My dried inks are: 1. Plastic bottle of Higgin's Black Magic Waterproof Ink. 2. Glass bottle, no label, Higgin's Drawing Ink, an encircle W and a 38 embossed on the bottom. 3. Glass Duro Art Drawing Ink, Black India Ink for pen or brush. Thanks, in advance, for any advice or help.

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