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  1. Result first: the nibs of Imperial II Deluxe are probably not PdAg nibs, at least some of them are confirmed to be stainless steel nibs. The components of Sheaffer Snorkel PdAg nibs are about 50% silver, 30% palladium, 10% gold and 10% copper, in mass (maybe?), analyzed by a handheld alloy analyzer by a predecessor in a Chinese forum 10 years ago. However, the components of the nib of Imperial II Deluxe are still not clear and debatable. Authoritative Sheaffertarga declares it to be a PdAg nib, not only Imperial II Deluxe, but also normal Imperial II, while some others claim it to be a stainless steel nib. I bought three Imperial II Deluxes last year, so let me make an end of the argument. Not touchdown Imperial II Deluxe, but cartridge edition, defined by the chalk mark "C" on the barrels and boxes. Deluxe is not marked, maybe the caps are not original, but three NOS-level pens are the same, so no "Deluxe" mark might be a common phenomenon. Anyway, no matter what my pens are, the result of stainless steel nib is contrary to the statement of Sheaffertarga, the provided information on PdAg nib could be wrong. Screwed off the nibs and pasted them onto sample stage, and used an energy disperse spectroscopy installed Tescan Vega 3 scanning microscope to analyze the components. It is worth noting that EDS is qualitative and semi-quantitive, the content of elements is not very accurate. Three areas on each nib were detected, and the results are similar, typical one is presented above without any processing. The Chinese in the table are elements, atomicity, line, value, mass, normalized mass and atom, from left to right. The nibs are mainly made of iron, chromium and nickel, typically elements of stainless steel, no palladium, no silver at all, so definitely not PdAg nibs. Maybe part of Imperial II Deluxes installed with PdAg nibs, but at least not all of them are PdAg nibs, and probably all of them are stainless steel nibs, in my opinion. Certainly, the sample size is rather limited, more samples are welcomed. However, I am in China, so just saying. I will examine some other nibs in the future, tell me if you are interested in any nib (Sheaffer only), maybe I have one. BTW, the tips of nibs are made of ruthenium, tungsten and cobalt.
  2. I am looking at this pen for purchase. In general, it looks darker than photos I've seen of red-veined grey pearl pens and the top of the cap seems lighter. Does it look discolored to you? Is it not the red-veined grey pearl color? [Click on photos for larger images.]
  3. I just got one of these on a whim for just a little bit over $25, without knowing what it really is. In my experience, anything from before the 60's (and also any lever filler) is very few and far between in my country. So I tend to get anything that's not too pricey. After some reading, it turned out to be a Sheaffer Vigilant with a military clip (I really like the look of this clip, btw!). But all the examples I've seen online has the Lifetime 2-tone nibs. I initially thought this was the Commandant, but this has the white dot below the clip and the imprint on the body does say 875 instead of 400. So was the #33 nib an option for the Vigilant or was this the result of some modification to the pen? If it's the latter, am I right in thinking that it's a downgrade? The pen does have signs of repairs. It may even be a case of failed repair. There was no trace of shellac between the section and body (I can easily pull the apart, though it's still snug enough), and the feed is halfway out as you can see on the picture above. It also has a major crack from the tip down to just before the bushing, which has lots of chipping itself. Maybe this was the reason for the repair being abandoned halfway. In any case, it seems to have happened a time ago, since the sac has turned to dust and is still in the pen. (Yes, that's the remnants of some creepy crawlies inside the feed) I'm planning to try to repair this myself. Just some simple repairs to make it usable, not a complete & proper restoration. With the feed in such a condition, I don't think some experimenting would hurt. The feed itself also seems to have a longer tail than what I see in pics online. Is that normal? I think it may be long enough to get pressed by the pressure bar when filling.
  4. Hello to all Looking for some kind assistance in identifying the model of a Sheaffer Sailor pen I just picked up on eBay. Seller reckons it's 1980's vintage, but wasn't completely sure. Can anyone help me please, from the pics included with this post? If I can provide any further info/pics, happy to do so. I'd also be grateful if anyone could let me have the details of the ink supply options, as far as cartridge/converters go. I have an '80's Sentinel and trying to get cartridges/converter to fit has been, to say the least, frustratingly unsuccessful. Many thanks Tony
  5. The Elevator

    What defines Vintage vs Modern?

    My sincerest apologies if somebody has done this already, but I would like to inquire about the definitions of the commonly used terms Vintage and Modern. 1: Is there a certain commonly-accepted year of delineation, like 2000? Or is there a more general and broad period of time, such as Sheaffer´s abandonment of their traditional US manufacturing sites in the early 2000s? 2: does it vary per the type of pen in question? For example, an original mid-century Parker 51 VS the modern attempt at a remake? 3: does it vary per whether the pen is discontinued or still in production? For example, the now-discontinued TWSBI 530, VS the modern replacement, the 580? Does this make my particular variant of the Platinum Preppy WA from the 2021 release a “vintage” pen? Obviously, there is probably no real universal answer to this question. I am simply looking to collect some opinions, pointers, and useful information as I start gearing up to enter the vintage fountain pen world. If you know of any particularly interesting “vintage VS modern” case studies, I would be delighted to read about them. Moderators, if you know about an older thread that this would merge well into, *please* do it. In a bygone era, I was once a forums moderator, and I know how ridiculous redundant threads can get. I am simply at present not able to find a thread that explicitly discusses this topic. (I could also just be blind)
  6. Hello everyone! This is my first post on FPN, and I'd like to seek some information regarding Sheaffer. As many of you know, Sheaffer's Australian factory produced a significant number of products. I've searched through related posts and learned that the Australian factory began production in 1951, producing pens like the Snorkel, PFM, Imperial, Targa, and more. I have three questions I'd like to ask: 1. Did the Australian factory have nib manufacturing equipment, especially for inlaid nibs? I understand that the production of inlaid nibs is quite complex. For pens like the AUST-marked Imperial and Targa, were their nibs entirely produced in Australia, or were they manufactured in the USA and then assembled in Australia? 2. Around when did Sheaffer's Australian factory cease production? I'm curious because I've noticed that later models of Targa (in the '90s) seem to lack the AUST marking on the nib. 3. I'd also like to inquire about how to determine the production year of a Targa. I usually consider Targas with Sheaffer USA engraved on the ornament and the USA marking on the nib's upper left corner as relatively later models. I'd appreciate hearing your perspectives on this matter. English is not my strong suit, and I've used ChatGPT to assist in translation. I hope the expression is clear. Thank you all for your responses and assistance!
  7. I just posted a video talking about the first fountain pen I ever own, Sheaffer's so-called "Student" Cartridge Pen. I go over the original version and how it changed into the 1980s. I have quite a collection, and I really love these pens. Over the years I have had them they all write very reliably and fairly smoothly, particularly the medium versions. I really like the 1970s green demonstrator version of the pen. I used to have the Peacock blue color in it, but they don't make that cartridge anymore. The only negative about the pen is that it won't fit a converter. The chamber is too narrow. It is really designed just for cartridges, but it is quite easy to empty a cartridge and use a needle to squirt your own ink into it. My guess is that soon Sheaffer will stop making cartridges for these pens which they discontinued sometime in the 1990s. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_Uki25b0oc
  8. Jasprr

    Connaisseur

    Hello! I received 2 of these as a gift, one has a squeeze converter and the other does not The pens are lovely and a pleasure to write / draw with, however I don’t particularly like the squeeze converter. I would love to have a cartridge converter for each pen but I’m having trouble finding ones that are compatible. I’m hoping someone might have advice, from the little research I’ve done it seems modern sheaffer cartridge converters click in but are too long to fit inside the pen body I would love to find a non-squeeze cartridge converter that’s compatible if anyone knows of one! (sorry the pictures aren’t very good and my handwriting is horrible)
  9. rsgonner

    Sheaffer converter

    Is there a piston converter than can be used with this type of Sheaffer nib? It is the kind that would pierce the old cylindrical cartridges on the School Pens. Or do I need one of the squeeze converters? Thanks, Russ
  10. Hi all, I am finishing my repair of a Balance Vac, and I am trying to set the nib and feed, and they will not seat in the section far enough in! I have never had this problem before. I have attempted to reseat it about 5 times. Every time I find myself exerting more force than I believe is a proper amount and so I back off, say a few chosen words, scratch my head, knock it back out, and figure out what the hell is wrong. I have looked inside the section, I do not see any old nib edge marks to see where it was seated before (this is my fault for not doing this when I took it apart). I have rotated where I attempt to place the nib and feed when inserting it...the only other thing I can THINK of is to set the section in the freezer or fridge (for a brief few minutes) to get it to shrink and therefore expand the size of the section hole, but that is just pure speculation as I try to figure out how to get this darn thing back in. It is the nib and feed that came/original with the pen, so it's not that I am trying to replace these parts. I am out of ideas. Any suggestions?
  11. Hello all, Just registered. Love Sheaffer's, and found the pen on the left in an auction. Tried to identify it in Sheaffer Targa, and RichardPens.com. It looks like it is a Stylist II, but I can't find anywhere this type of finish referenced. It looks like dented chrome, but even in the Sheaffer targa website there is no such finish. Can anyone help me identify it by the finish? Thank you in advance.
  12. Dear Members, is the attached a 9202 Sheaffer Imperial 777 Rolled Gold Fountain Pen and Ball Pen set? I am new to fountain pens and have trouble identifying. Thanks
  13. Hello, At present, I am using these 8 FPs. All of them are excellent writers. I am sharing the images here. Thanks
  14. Rebbe

    Pen Identification

    Hello Pen Enthusiasts, I have come into possession of a Sheaffer flat top pen without much branding on it, the clip and barrel are unmarked. It is a cartridge filler in a jade green color, and only the nib notes it is a Sheaffer. Any help in identifying the type and year of manufacture would be appreciated. Or, any information on when it was knocked off if it isn't a legitimate Sheaffer. Nib appears to be gold or brass, but it has no karat stamp on it. Only: "Sheaffer (tm) M MADE IN USA" Thanking you in advance for any insight you can provide. Please let me know if I can add any additional photographs or information not featured here. Cordially, Rebbe
  15. Charlie7

    Introducing myself - UK

    Hello from the UK, As a retired person I'm that age where we were brought up at our UK primary school using pencils. At the age of 8 years old we transferred to fountain pens and bottled ink, Stephen's or more usually Parkers Blue/Black. The pens were Osmiroid and the nibs; well italic unusually. What a trial and traumatic experience that was, even worse for Lefties as their nibs were 'crooked' to the left. On to secondary school and fountain pens were still used although ball points were becoming all the rage. Still, at 16 years old, I did school exams with my fountain pen, plus slide rules were now allowed instead of using Log Tables. I went on to an Engineering Apprenticeship to be a draughtsman hence got into Rotring Isograph pens and script nib pens. Another traumatic experience having to relearn writing suitable for drawings as were weren't allowed to use stencils. Moved from draughting to Field and Plant engineering so succumed to ball points and pencils but at the age of 40ish decided to do a degree. The full degree was undertaken doing notes, submissions and reports with a fountain pen even though computer word-processor documents were allowed, old habits die hard. Since the degree I've used most writing implements, except probably hammer and chisel, and found fountain pens to be the most useful and comfortable long term, a shame paper has not kept up with their use. Lack of paper availability at a reasonable price for everyday use, and that works well with ink, is disappointing. Being a lifelong motorcyclist Arthur Itus has become a companion around the base of both thumbs, using a fountain pen has easily become my most comfortable writing instrument. The pen I used during my degree is still in use, Sheaffer 565 with bladder style filler, although the filler is past its best. I have used ink cartridges for convenience at times when I don't wont to travel with a bottle or need to use different colours, but the pleasure of using bottled ink is comforting. The Sheaffer pens size and weight suits me but its getting noticeably scratchy now and the bladder is well worn. Looking to purchase a new pen I see most shapes appear to mimic ball point pens, too thin for me, plus the prices for pens with gold nibs Phew. Anyway, that's my story and experience too date.
  16. madoo77

    Trying to identify this pen

    Hi, I have a pen probably 40 years old passed on to me by my late father-in-law. Loved him and love writing with this pen. The converter is beginning to leak now and I am trying to see if I can get a replacement one. First step is to identify this pen and from looking at online information it is either a Sheaffer TRZ or a Fountain II. I saw the following links online which I have been using as a reference: https://www.peytonstreetpens.com/fashion-ii-fountain-pen-model-261-gold-lined-medium-new-old-stock-in-box.html https://www.ebay.ca/itm/185589989550?hash=item2b360680ae:g:GIYAAOSwqRRjK1LX The clip of my pen is slightly different from the TRZ 70 as it is not as close to the end of the cap as the TRZ 70. The Fashion II picture matches but the bottom of the pen is slightly different. Any advice on which one it is? Also, are the converters for the two pens the same? Thanks in advance for your help.
  17. HYPOTHETICAL: You, a multi-billionaire and pen fan, have just become, via purchase, the sole owner of the Sheaffer Pen Company and all its property, including patents and archives. Your goal is to offer the best and most interesting lineup of models you can while, at the same time, making at least a small profit. You are not limited by history in what your pen lineup can be. For example, if you wish, you can offer the PFM/Legacy in a new color/pattern with a flexible nib and with a filling system never offered in a PFM/Legacy or even in any Sheaffer. Tell us what models the new Sheaffer Pen Co. would offer for sale, and describe the relevant details of each model that you'd have the new Sheaffer Pen Co. sell. Provide any details about whatever appeals to you in this regard, such as marketing strategy, pricing (in whichever currency you choose), and anything else you wish. Would you stagger the introduction of your models or put them all out at once? No limits here. Have at it and have fun. 😍
  18. Last Sunday afternoon turned to an afternoon of deep cleaning, re-sac and restore a 70 year old Sheaffer Snorkel Crest. An idle and boring afternoon with temperature soaring over 36 degree Celsius and non other place to be, took my thoughts to check on my vintage FP collection. During the casual check ups it was surprising to find the elderly Sheaffer Snorkel crest missing the satisfactory "pffft" of exhaled air during the final phase of the closure of the plunger, and that was the start for one of the most exhilarating and exciting Sunday afternoon in the recent past. After checking and confirming the availability of spares from my beloved workstation, it was time time to dive deep into the process. Disassembly of the Pen - The procedure started with opening the endocarp and extending the plunger and carefully opening the nib section with the extended snorkel. I was fortunate to find the nib section in my pen not glued to the barrel. Nib and feeder removal was a piece of cake as the triumph nib was a screw on on the nib section. After soaking the removed sac protector and the snorkel in lukewarm water for 20 mins, it was easy to remove the sac protector exposing the sac. The Next and final disassembly was the plunger from the end cap. A tiny screw which had been in place for unknown about of time unscrewed with minimal resistance and Thus this elderly 70 year old Sheaffer Snorkel was ready for the overhaul. Problems noticed - Point Gasket, Sac, 'O' ring and the end plate washer were worn out. Mild degree of rust formation was noticed on the spring and end cap nut. Gunk deposits in the cap, plunger tube, barrel and sac protector. Restoration process - The Process started with a deep and through cleaning. All the twelve parts on the pen including the cap was soaked for 45 minutes in lukewarm water with few drops of dish-wash soap. General rub a dab of Colgate tooth paste was applied to all hollow parts excluding the feeder, Nib and the snorkel and was soaked again in lukewarm water for 45 mins. a through run over with an electric toothbrush removed the rust and gunk deposits on the pen parts. All the parts were dried with paper towels. The new Latex Sac was Cut and fitted on the snorkel using shellac and a subsequent wait for 3 hours for the shellac to cure. A gentle coat of silicon grease on the plunger, spring, the sac protector, the threads on the nib section was applied. the final process included the replacement of point gasket, 'O' Ring, and end cap washer. The pen was later reassembled by refitting the plunger to the end cap. Aligning the snorkel along with sac and sac protector, feeder, the triumph nib and the spring and the wedlock between the nib section and barrel. Final Touches - Polishing with turtle wax and chrome polish and the elderly gentle man was back in action good as new. Parts from https://vintagepensacsandparts.com/products/sheaffer-snorkel-tm-sac-repair-kit?_pos=3&_sid=693d85f88&_ss=r
  19. wishthen

    Sheaffer Valor Nib Adjustment

    Hi all! I relatively new to fountain pens (compared to most here-just a few years in with about 150 vintage & new pens and a few restorations under my belt!) I have a Sheaffer Valor B pen which I bought used for something like $20. I absolutely LOVE the pen, it's probably the smoothest nib I own, and I'm a sucker for Sheaffer's inlaid nibs, but I found it to be ridiculously wet. I tried using it for a while, figuring I just needed to get used to using a broad nib. Until I held it up to the light. The tines have a huge gap in the center of the nib, but looking at the tip with a loupe it is perfectly centered and aligned. How can this be adjusted/fixed? Is it something I can do on my own (without destroying it) or should I send it out for a professional to do? I am not adverse to even having it ground to something more interesting or perhaps a finer line if I need to send it out anyway. I figure I paid so little for it perhaps it would be worth putting the savings (and probably a bit more?) into a professional repair or a grind. However, I've never had a custom grind or even sent a pen to someone for repair and have no idea who to turn to. Or if it's possible for me to do a DIY repair...how would I go about it? I haven't seen anything in my extensive searching regarding adjusting inlaid nibs or addressing my particular issue. Any advice or recommendations greatly appreciated!!
  20. Saw a pic of the top of an old Skrip Permanent Red, and it says this: Sounds fantastic! Does anyone know to what this is referring, did it work, and does the modern Red Skrip still contain anything like this?!
  21. It helps to explore this yourself, revisiting once in a while if need be, and keep in mind where each of those personal info fields are entered. Don't leave it until the urge to change something specific to come upon you, and only then bother to ask the question! Invest the time surveying upfront, instead of waste it later waiting for an answer from nobody in particular. Most of the fields shown above are self-evident as to what they are. I think the only ones that could do with explanation are: Security and Privacy: There is only one setting under there, and that is a toggle for whether your online status (including ‘last active’ date or time) is visible to others Content View Behavior: That has nothing to do with what others can see about you, but only where you would like to start reading when accessing content Enable status updates: This toggle enables/disables the public feed on your profile page; if you disable it, then nobody (including you) can post publicly visible ‘status updates’ or any other message against your profile, but if you enable it, then anyone — friend, foe, or complete stranger — can post something there whenever, without waiting for you to initiate and then only reply to what you wrote Notification Settings have nothing to do with what others can see about you, and so is out of scope for this article, and I'm not going to delve into those right now. (You can look here, here, and here to wrap your head around how notifications work with respect to followed content.) N.B. There is a possibility that some of the above settings and data fields may not be available to Bronze members and/or Silver members, but I have no way of testing that or scoping it out. — • — Another way of getting to the Edit Profile dialog, and the way to change your profile photo (or ‘avatar’), is here: — • — Freeform, custom member titles that one enters for oneself are long gone, and have not been a thing since FPN came back from a long hiatus and platform upgrade late in 2020.
  22. I’ve got three tiny (12ml !!) bottles of an old Sheaffer color. I’d like to give these away to anyone who is relatively new, an ink fiend (but who isn’t?), and new to this obscure ink. The bottle are full to the brim and the caps tighter than tight (it’s going to take a six year old body builder or a tool to uncap these), so I suspect the ink is good, apart from any color degradation from time (been in drawers and cupboards as long as I’ve had them, though). But with those spiffy new needle cartridge/converter fillers, those 12 milliliters are available without losing half of it, so out they go. The others inks aren’t available, just props. Sheaffer lavender was quite nice, as was the burgundy. Full disclosure: I didn’t like this color then or now but some certainly did. It was an unusual color in the time before Private Reserve & Diamond & Noodlers and the rainbow flood we all have access to! Happy to mail on my dime anywhere in the US. I’ll watch the thread for the first three requests. [I didn’t reread the PIF guidelines, so I hope I’m not violating any, but if I have, please let me know.)
  23. donnweinberg

    Sheaffer Balance 2 Photo Gallery

    I haven't seen a full-fledged photo gallery here of the modern Sheaffer Balance 2 (or Balance II), so I thought I'd provide one now. If I'm wrong, I apologize in advance, but no harm done. I'll provide photos in a few separate posts here. Let's start with the Balance 2 "Classic Colors," which were made from an injection-molded solid-color resin. They came in three colors -- Hunter Green, Navy Blue, and Black -- and were available in FP, RB, and BP. The FP came with a 14K solid gold nib, available in a few widths, including a stub. The nib was quite firm. Here are my photos. You'll notice that the Hunter Green FP shown here has a stub nib. Many years ago, I sold my Navy Blue and Black Balance II FPs, so I only have a BP in each of those colors in my collection.
  24. shannonkd

    My Student Pen Won't Write

    Hi! I have a vintage Sheaffer student pen (about the 70s model) that I found at an antique store. The previous owner had let the ink run out and then just set it down. Thankfully, the ink was water soluble so that the ink was easily removed with lots of flushing and soaking. I got a new cartridge with the exact ink that was in it before (Skrip since the cartridge was still attached) but it won't flow out. If I place a paper towel on top of the nib, ink flows onto the paper towel, it just won't flow to the very tip of the nib. The nib is inlaid and can't be adjusted. I'm not sure what else to try.
  25. Included here are Hero, Sailor, Sheaffer and standard international cartridges. Note that Hero carts are meant to be re-useable and re-sealable! They also fit other pens such as Monami Olika, some Parkers, and Moonman. Also: A JHerbin rollerball (takes standard ink carts), Hero 616s and 330s, a Wing Sung 601-A, a Parker Frontier, some 'project' Sheaffer school pens with great nibs, a little gold NoNami, ink vials, pipettes, and more. CONUS Only. It would be great if you could offer to pay for a flat rate box. I will leave this up for a while. Single winner will be chosen by the highly scientific Eeny Meeny Method. Thanks.





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