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  1. So.. I finally got my shipment from Anderson Pens for restoring my little Wearever and everything went great! I put a new sac on (which is watertight) and put a new j-bar in (40mm) but since they didn’t have talc in stock I ordered it from a separate place, and it is due to arrive soon. Anyway, so as I was moving the barrel with the j-bar, I dropped it, and the j-bar moved a little bit further back (I didn’t know it could, I pushed it back as far as I could) leaving me not able to pull it out with the hemostat. Long story short, I gave it somebody who, despite me telling them explicitly severa
  2. Hello there, I have recently acquired a beautiful blue swirl Bantam and I'm refitting the sac since it is a bulb system and the old sac was worn. The pen came from factory with an aluminum press fitted ring that held the old sac. (see picture) Now I need to remove this ring in order to properly fit another sac, but have been experiencing some difficulty doing so. Does anyone have any experience with this or how I should tackle this? As one of the pictures will show, I have started to chip away at a deep groove in the ring. Will this be problematic? Thanks in advan
  3. I have a few Parker 51 pens that I've taken apart, cleaned out, and now it's time to replace their sacs, so I thoroughly removed any gunk and residue from the sac nipple, then shellac'd the new sac and left it to dry for a day or so. The result: after the shellac dries, it seems that it doesn't provide a good air seal. There seem to be "bubbles" under the sac between the "ridges" of the sac nipple, and as I apply some pressure on the sac, it starts to separate from the sac nipple very easily. For this reason, I'm too afraid to put this in a pen, because even though it sold of holds, I'm afr
  4. I've disassembled a couple of Parker 51s for cleaning and tuning. On one of these pens, the sac came off even though I didn't really want to take it off. I assume when I heated it up in order to take off the hood, it must've also destroyed whatever was holding this sac in place. The sac itself is somewhat discolored but it doesn't seem torn or damaged in any way. Is it okay to reuse this old sac by shellacing it back to the connector when I reassemble the pen? Or is this something that I shouldn't do?
  5. I have a Conway Stewart in excellent outside condition. I sent it to a pen repair person for a complete restoration, new sac, nib tuned and polished. I got it back and all it got was "grease" and does not fill or write. Charge was $17. (restoration quote was $40) Rather than pursue with this fellow and waste my time, are there any reputable pen restorers, repair persons in the USA, with an online website, that I can send my pen to for restoration and nib tuning and polish? Thanks for your help. jim
  6. Hi all, I have 3 vintage Sheaffer fountain pens that were recently passed down to me from my late great-grandfather. I know that one of them is for sure a Sheaffer Snorkel, but I'm not sure about the other two. Images of the Snorkel: https://imgur.com/a/TWdURQp Images of the brown pen: https://imgur.com/a/BYhi5jT Images of the green pen: https://imgur.com/a/2myBKsk The two unknown pens I'm fairly confident I can easily restore. They both AFAIK have petrified sacs, though one of them came apart and I was able to get it out. The Snorkel I am less confident about, given its complexity. I
  7. I'm not at all experienced in restoring pens, but I thought I would try my hand at it a bit with a Sheaffer snorkel I just received as a gift. It is a black snorkel with a waverly nib, and it is in incredibly good condition except for the sac, which I plan to re-sac later. But first I have to get that sac out of the metal sac protector. I tried to loosen the metal crimping around the black piece at the bottom of the sac to gently pull it out via the snorkel, but I ended up pulling the snorkel out of the black piece instead. So my question is - as a non-experienced pen restorer (I mostly use mo
  8. Yesterday I started my new year with a new achievement: I restored a Sheaffer Snorkel! I’m sure that’s not exactly a “stop the presses” moment for most of you, but it was a bit of a watershed for me. I’ve been collecting and using fountain pens for some years now, and I’ve done a bit of light tinkering along the way. I’ve learned to swap standard #5 and #6 nibs around freely, made some basic nib adjustments, got a sonic cleaner. I even replaced rubber bulbs on my bulb-fillers, which is about as easy as it gets, because it doesn’t even require disassembling the pen at all. But the Snorkel…
  9. tonybelding

    Rubber-Friendly Ink

    I recently pulled a couple of my Edison bulb-fillers out of storage. One had traces of ink dried in it, as I must have neglected to flush it before putting it away. The other looked clean. Both of them had the rubber bulbs partially melted. The conventional wisdom says rubber bulbs and sacs (as in lever-fillers, touchdown-fillers, etc.) should last for many years, perhaps decades. I've been having a lot of failures with them, and I've heard about friends having problems with them too. I've had restored vintage pens that failed too, much sooner than I would have expected. My first impulse
  10. I received a pair of CS, a ballpoint 95 and a fountain pen 150. I love these models, esp. the ballpoint. And folks, I need your help....... For the ballpoint, I can't fine the refill in Hong Kong, I tried many similar refills but the metal points are too big that cannot be used. Any recommendations for getting any compatible refill anyway? I saw a thread here below saying that 2 refills may fit. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/342875-a-vintage-conway-stewart-ballpoint/?hl=%2Bconway+%2Bstewart+%2Bballpoint Anyone tried before?, as I need to order form Cultpens
  11. ColdDeadHand

    Permanent Ink For Vintage Pens?

    I have a bit of a hangup for permanent inks, and this is often at odds with my passion for vintage pens. Do you think I'm going to take apart a Parker Vacumatic, clean it, replace the diaphragm, admire the clarity of the barrel that has survived for 70 or 80 years, and then fill it with Heart of Darkness? No. That is not happening. I love HoD, but that goes into modern pens that I don't really give a darn about. Inks with no water resistance are uninteresting to me. Yes, I have a bottle of Waterman Serenity Blue. It's used for dip tests after I refurbish a pen, but there is no way I
  12. Recently got this and a Duofold from a colleague. The nib is in excellent condition and writes quite well, but the internal sac has crumbled to dust. Would it be possible to buy a new sac for this in India? If not, what are my sources online for buying parts for this? I think this is a Sheaffer Triumph but I might be wrong and more information on the pen is always welcome.
  13. law_kid

    Shellac - Type And Cut?

    I'm ready to take the plunge and restore a couple of (inexpensive) old Esties. The instructions/videos I've seen suggest using ":shellac" to adhere the new sac to the nipple, and I know some of the supply places sell small bottles of it. However, as a woodworker, I have multiple types of shellac flakes sitting around.and I'd rather not pay relatively big $$$ for a small bottle of something I ordinarily make by the quart. Can anybody tell me the type of shellac used (waxed vs. dewaxed, does orange vs blonde matter, etc) and also the strength or "cut" of the shellac i should use (e.g. a one
  14. TomCorbett

    Mabie Todd: L330/60 Sac Size?

    Found this at the local antique market today: it may be a little rough, but at $25CAD I couldn't resist it as my first foray into vintage pens From the stamp on the bottom (L330/60), I figured it's a pre-war, black hard rubber, size 3 Mabie Todd Leverless, c.1934. The nib section is stamped with "Swan L3" and the body is stamped with "Patent No. 390585/32". The nib is #3, 14ct gold, and apparently flexible from a quick dip-test with Monteverde Sapphire ink. It's so smooth and wet!! Unfortunately the left tine of the nib looks a little bent... but I'll see if I can massage it back into shape
  15. I can't believe this isn't a pinned topic somewhere, but I didn't see it, so... Several years ago I was bitten by the vintage fountain pen bug & acquired some (ahem) pens, mostly lever fillers. Now that it's been a while I am wondering about sac replacement. The "dumb" question (even though I know there are no dumb questions): how do I know when a pen needs a new sac? I have one pen that seems obviously in need, since it no longer holds ink. Others hold ink but I can hear slightly creaky or crackly sounds when I depress the lever. I'm guessing this means the sacs are showing signs of
  16. fotojake

    Waterman's 52 Lever Fill Failure

    Hi, I bought a circa 1918 Waterman's Ideal 52 lever fill fountain pen two weeks ago. I had it filled with Waterman's ink at the store, took it home, and gleefully wrote with it until it ran dry today. I started to flush it out with distilled water and after about 20, or so, fills and flushes it just stopped filling when I released the lever to fill it one more time. No forewarning of impending failure, no breaking or snapping sound, nothing. Any idea what this could be, is a fix simple? I am somewhat handy, but if this is a repair beyond my means, can someone recommend a place that wo
  17. I have this Parker Slimfold which is missing its ink sac and protector. I am curious if a converter may be purchased for the pen, or if anyone could point me toward replacement parts? I will include a photo of the pen section below. Thank you
  18. I'm putting together an aerometric Parker 51 on which I replaced the pli-glass sac and the breather tube. The sac guard is one of the early aerometric models (maybe the chrome plated one) and can be screwed off easily. Should I seal it with shellac? Or something? Or just leave it as it is, to make it easier to repair next time?
  19. bsenn

    Anode Rubber Sac

    Most ossified sacs crumble away. I found one in a senior Duofold (non-lucky curve) which is hard as a rock, but intact. It appears to be imprinted "PARKER ANODE" and "MADE IN USA". Googling the term anode, I came across Parker Service Manual 5115 which mentions "Sac, Anode Rubber". Was Anode Rubber a Parker marketing term, and is it common to find imprinted sacs? BTW, here is the opening paragraph of the service manual: "Repairing a fountain pen is not as simple as it seems. It might be compared to repairing a watch. It is easy to tinker with a watch with the result that it keeps poor
  20. queerspaceman

    Good Assortment Of Sac Sizes?

    Hi all, I've decided to learn to restore vintage pens, and i've got some lower end ones (so i can learn without breaking something priceless) coming in from ebay soon. i'm getting ready to order an assortment of sacs, what sizes would you suggest i get? i was thinking something like: 2x#12, 3x#14, 3x#16, 3x#18, 2x#20. does that sound about right?
  21. elysee

    Esterbrook Sac: Duration?

    I purchased several Esterbrook fountain pens during graduate school. When I purchased them, they were newly restored with new sacs. How long should these sacs last? That is, what is the approximate lifetime for a sac? Other than waiting for the sac to leak, is there any way in which to determine when the sac needs to be replaced?
  22. Hello everyone, I recently picked up an absolutely mint W-E Doric desk pen (in Cashmere, of all places) and was wondering what the correct sac size for it was. It has a #5 adjustable nib and the nipple appears to be slightly more than 1/4" across. I've seen conflicting info from several sources on which size sac to use: Richard Binder's website cites the proper size as 17 or 18 (not quite sure if my pen qualifies as a Doric or a Personal Point) while some other sites give the proper size as 22 (which seems way too big). On a similar note, should I use a regular latex sac or a silicone sac to
  23. tonybelding

    Bulb-Filler Experiment

    Because of all the questions around some inks possibly causing rubber sacs to fail prematurely, I have decided to conduct a series of methodical tests using my bulb-filler pens. Because these pens use rubber bulbs, but the bulbs are quite easy and inexpensive for me to replace as needed, they're ideal for testing inks that might possibly be "dangerous" to latex rubber. The methodology I've decided on is. . . Ink one pen each month, and use it continually with the chosen ink for three months. At the end of that time, check the bulb carefully for evidence of decay. Because I have three b
  24. Hello everyone! So I am new to purchasing vintage fountain pens, though I am an avid user of FPs in general! I recently purchased this beautiful Wahl Deco Greek #2 flex nib on eBay because I was looking for a flexible nib that allows more line variation than my metal falcon. Overall, it looks to be in pretty good condition, however, the seller said that the pen needs a new sac. I found some places online that had sacs for the #2 nib with the ring top, but mine is a clip top. Furthermore, I am not completely sure where to buy these sacs for vintage pens! If you could help me out, I would greatl
  25. Inkysloth

    Sheaffer Bulb Filler?!

    Hi all, I bought a cluster of "old pens" from Ebay as one was a Sheaffer I thought might scrub up well. A photo will follow when I've charged my phone up. My confusion is, it has a sac fixed in place, but no other sign of a filling mechanism - no moving blind cap, no snorkel, no nothing. Just an ink sac. Did Sheaffer make any bulb fillers?! Or is this someone's cartridge pen that they've glued a sac into, to make a bulb filler?





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