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  1. My Parker Duofold is almost 10 years old and the rhodium (palladium ?) cover on the cap rings has been damaged. I have contacted to a jeweler about this issue and he suggested me to detach these rings from the cap. So I have 2 questions: is it possible to disassemble the cap (without any damage) and which metal should a jeweler use to restore the cover? Or maybe it is better to order new rings made of white gold for example? Any help is highly appreciated. Love and peace to everyone! No to war!
  2. Hi, I just received a vintage Rotring Renaissance. I need to take it apart for cleaning. At first I thought the nib section will just screw out like the Pelikan nib. But it feels really tight and I don't dare to apply more force. Does anybody know about this pen? Am I supposed to screw the nib or just pull it out? I did some research on Youtube but didn't find any video of any help.
  3. Hi, I have a damaged/non-working Pilot Elite pocket pen of the 80's. It has a problem with seating the ink cartridge/converter - the converter goes in much too deep and does not become seated (rattles around, falls out if pen is inverted, etc). Can this be repaired? I suspect I'd need to remove the threaded metal part of the body and pull the internal assembly out, but is this (a) reasonably possible, (b) worthwhile and (c) are spare parts to be had anywhere? Many thanks! Marc
  4. rtrinkner

    Lathe Recommendation?

    Hi folks, I'm thinking of purchasing a lathe so that I can try to make my own tools, create custom cap bands, create custom cap band bushings of PEEK (e.g., to follow Fountainbel's swaging techniques) etc. I'd only be using the lathe for pen repair. I'd greatly appreciate any recommendations for specific models you have used with success for pen work. Thanks, Richard
  5. Hi everyone! I picked a Parker 61 with a capillary filler yesterday and I was super excited to try it out. However, I realized that the filler tube itself was loose and inside was totally empty, aside from the long ebonite feed. From the videos I've seen, it seems that there's supposed to be a Teflon coated sheet of wicking material inside that helps wick up the ink. Does anyone know if/how I can either substitute the wick or find a replacement for it?
  6. Hi all! I've just joined the forum, as I'm looking for help with a vintage Cross ballpoint (classic century?) such a Beautiful pen and I fear I've ruined it... Was trying to get the refill out (I know I know, read the instructions) and somehow unscrewed the refill *holder* instead of just the refill. The spring and 2 little washers came out as well. For the life of me, it won't all go back in! It's like the refill holder is too big. . Is this how it stays in..? Friction? And once it is out, can it ever be put back? I am beyond annoyed with myself.
  7. Hi, This is not my first time using a flex fountain pen. I have a pilot 912 FA and a bluedew flex pen but this is my first experience a vintage flex fountain pen. I just received my a vintage waterman fountain pen (a 'new look' that is made between 1940-1950 by JIF-Waterman). According to the seller, this nib can go from EF to 2.0mm. I was experimenting the flex of the pen. And I was too stupid to actually flex it that hard and half of the tip came off from the nib. I still have the tip that is broken off. Is the pen can still be saved or is it only a piece of accessory now? 😭 Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestion.
  8. Does anyone here know a shop or private nibmeister (nibmaestro?) in Rome who I can trust to grind a vintage Parker nib? I'm not even sure whether this is a good idea. It's a vintage Parker 51 Special with an absolutely perfect Medium nib (Octanium), but what I really need is a Fine. Is it sacrilege to have it ground down? Will it be as good as it is now? Am I better to simply swap it out? Semi-serious metaphysical question: It has sentimental value; does grinding a nib diminish the sentimental value of a pen?
  9. LukeLavender

    montblanc 221 repair help

    Hey all, I thought you would all be the best at knowing how/if this can be put back together - I tried doing a similar post on reddit but did not get much of a response. It feel apart as I was uncapping it (the plastic section is very fragile and seems to have been damaged); is there any possibility or means by which this can be made whole again or is it a lost cause? I have managed to put it back together; I super glued the section (I am assuming some of you are cringing) which worked, but, when the pen is put together and screwed together, the pressure was too much and the plastic section ruptured again. The fault is purely this small little plastic section (as I understand it), is there anywhere/way this can be repaired or be bought/replaced? I reached to Montblanc, repair costs begin from $125 according to them so I am assuming there must be a more efficient/economical way of replacing/repairing this part? thanks in advance for all your help!
  10. I just received a Montblanc 4F safety filler and it arrived with a loose turning knob and I am hoping that someone may be able to help me diagnose the problem. When turning the knob to extend the nib, it turns with little pressure and when trying to write with it there is no resistance and the nib is easily pushed back into the pen barrel. There also seems to be small gap between the turning knob and barrel. Below are links to photos and a video demonstrating this. Any help or direction will be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Photo of gap: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nv7m7k79oxyv524/IMG_4313.jpeg?dl=0 Video of issue: https://www.dropbox.com/s/n815yj331frh1oh/IMG_4312.MOV?dl=0
  11. What binder/viscous stuff is used in (cheap?) twist style ballpoint / rollerball pens to secure cap to the twisting mechanism? I have a "De Cambridge Germany" branded pen that had oil based G2 refill leak into the twist mechanism, sealing it shut. I was able to dissolve it in the alcohol so twisting mechanism now works again. However, the cap that used to seal the mechanism sitting on top of it no longer has the same grip strength. It seems that I need to apply some more of the high viscosity sticky gel (something akin to never-setting glue?) that was holding it together. So, the question is, what was this stuff and where can I get it? I don't think gluing it shut is a good idea, in my other twist roller with C1 refills sliding the cap held to the twist mechanism via this viscous binder seems to be the intended refilling method.
  12. Hi, my name is Aidan. I've been collecting vintage fountain pens since September and now have 6 of them. I would love to make the leap into restoration, but don't know how.... The tools involved, many steps, and just the pen to start off with overwhelm me. If anyone can provide me with the information to start, it would be much appreciated!
  13. birdylo

    Lady Sheaffer's lost her head!

    I just received a vintage Lady Sheaffer 903 that was supposed to be in working order and had the nasty surprise that her nib (wraparound style 14k) does not stay on her feed section. All the parts are present (the washer and rubber seal too), so I spent about an hour cleaning everything thoroughly. I needed to chase the feed threads since they were seriously gunked up. Now the threads on the nib and feed section are clean and distinct, they just don't have enough contact to screw together. What should I try next? I would like to have a permanent solution but I'm not sure if I should get the epoxy so quickly. Based upon what I cleaned out of it, I think someone had tried shellac on it before... but that clearly was not a good fix.
  14. I have several Parker pens that have names engraved in them, some of them have the names in the same typeface, in the same size, and all of these ones are coloured in with gold. My assumption at this point is that the names were all hot stamped in, and they were hot stamped over gold foil. Maybe I'm wrong, maybe it was a gold paint, I donno, but I imagine this was a Parker Dealer thing which would explain the identical typeface used. Is there any insight into how this was done? Methods and materials used? I don't feel any need at all to remove these engravings, in fact, it's the opposite: they all have SOME degree of damage to the gold filling and a couple are quite bad. How have any of you restored the gold lettering that has been damaged in this way? My goal is to get it as close to original as possible. Obviously, finding a set of the original letters used to imprint in the first place would be ideal, but it is also likely impossible/un-affordable. I've considered rubbing Gold crayola crayon into the engraving but the more I think about it, the less I want to do that, and the more I want to find a way to use whatever it was that Parker used. Has anyone attempted this restoration? What did your results turn out like? Here are two of my "51"s with this engraving: black 1946 DJ with Heirloom cap; this pen is the best preserved one I have, it's also the only one of the 4 I have that has the text "upside down" and Cedar Blue Single Jewel Vac I also have two Vacumatics with identical typeface but I haven't gotten around to taking their "mug shots" yet.
  15. rfenter

    Vintage 146 section leaks

    I have a vintage (W. Germany) 146 that leaves ink on my fingers. To whom would you send for repair?
  16. Hi Friends I recently purchased an interesting telescopic (3 pieces) propelling pencil with what is known as "magic action". The "magic" consists on the tip getting out when the pencil is extended and it is actually not working and I was curious to open the pencil to explore the mechanism and eventually fix it. If I manually push the tip in and out it moves freely, rotating the tip expels or retracts the led tip properly, that part works. Problem is: i did not manage to find a way to open the pencil. For sure it cannot screw from to front part (did try hard). The bigger part rotates freely, the smaller and intermediate part instead do not rotate on each other, but I did not force. Anybody has any clue how to make progresses on this tiny pencil? Also I would appreciate some indication on which model it can be and maker. There are no hallmarks and no writings at all. Searching online I could not find same representations, besides the below link which shows an identical silver version market Perry & Co on the tip. https://www.uppop.top/antique-mechanical-propelling-pencil-perrys-magic-action-telescopic-chatalaine-p-11058.html See attached pictures for my pencil, shortened, expanded and focus on tip. Thanks!
  17. JamesEdward

    Front section stuck. Rubber cement?

    Dear all, I got a 30s Parker Duofold Canada from a second-hand seller the other day. It seems someone has glued the front section in place. The feed was clogged with what I can only describe as malleable white-ish school eraser material. This is my pointer to assume it is rubber cement, although I have never seen or used the stuff. I was able to remove it with a toothpick. If a previous owner used this same material to glue the front section in place (some appears to be visible between the tiny space between barrel and front section) how would you recommend trying to loosen the front section? Pen has been in cold water for 3 days, some soap added. Had 5 runs in ultrasonic barn. One run of hot water, probably around 40 Celsius (104 F). I didn't dare hotter because of the celluloid. Blind cap, feed and nib have been removed. No sac remnants, button and pressure bar MIA. Many thanks for your effort and help!
  18. I got 3 Laban Pens & out of those 2 have very bad nibs . I wrote to them and it has been around 6 months & I haven't heard back from you. How has been your experience with them?
  19. Hi everyone - I've got a Montblanc Starwalker that's had the threads on the cap strip completely twice, with very little use. I sent it back for repair once, and am looking for a more reliable solution. The second time it happened, the person at the Montblanc store very smugly recommended that I don't pull the cap off and don't tighten it too much. Believe me, as much as this pen cost, I've been as careful as I can with it and the cheap plastic threads in the cap fail after a couple of months of normal daily use. Can anyone recommend what I should do?
  20. Hello everyone, apperciate your kindness and input here. I bought two Aurora Internazionale on my trip to Japan a while ago, but I think due to all kinds of accidents, and the bank I kept them in got water damage in the vault. I observed some wear and scratches created by shipments. (Which is like a small amount on the and the end of the pen) So I would like to send my pens through Kenro to Aurora, I asked Kenro if Aurora could offer a repolishing of the pen, and they said yes. But I do not know if Aurora is willing to do an overhaul for the two Internazionale since they are sitting in a moistured environment for a while, so there may be something terrible happening to those metal components on the cap or so. And got some minor wear and scratches on the surface. I was just wondering if anyone would help me with this question. I also wonder what kind of packaging I should do when I ship them to Kenro, and in what type of packaging will they send back? Well... Although Internazionale may not be the most valuable Aurora, its old Duofold appearance and limited nature are indeed leveling up my concern and cause me to worry about these issues.
  21. Trinh Nguyen

    SCRIBO FEEL piston disassemble.

    Hello, I don't know if anyone have this problem with SCRIBO piston, I got mine only roughly 4-5 months, however the piston feel a bit sluggish and not as smooth as I wanted to be; I want lubricate the piston but I'm not sure if I should try and with what tool. If anyone had tried, how did you do it and with what tool?
  22. Hello everyone, I had asked this question on the Italy forum, but did not get any reply, so hopefully someone will be able to help here. I just bout this three (NoS) Omas Deskpens (Two 556T and one 583T), the pistons are extremely stiff and not moving. I need help on how to disassemble the pistons to grease them. Thank you in advance. Best regards, Northstar
  23. ADEMiller

    Conklin Loose Clip

    Hey everyone! I got this Conklin (looks a lot like an Endura but isn't marked as such?) from an antique store for a really good deal-or so I thought! I was so excited I didn't notice the very loose clip. As you can see from the pictures, it looks like someone forced it one way and a small piece of the hard rubber gave way. Remarkably no cracks, but the clip does move to that one side (but not the other). Is there anything to be done to stabilize the clip? Thanks, Alexander
  24. Hi my hobby friends! A few months ago I finished the restoration of a Sheaffer Balance Oversize in black and pearl like this one. After resacking, full cleaning and so on I filled it with ink (Edelstain Pelikan Garnet and Pelikan 4001 black&Blue in other occasion). When I opened the cap at the next day I noticed that the top of the section was fulled of wet ink. It's important to say that after filled the pen, I drop out a few drops of inks and clean the excess of ink in the feed, as always do. This problem is consistent: that happened a few times already. Other things to consider are : 1) The leaking doesn't occur when I have the pen in my hand (but sometimes í note an excessive' ink flow) >>>> so I didn't suspect of a 'too big sac' issue. I let you a picture below, just to be sure. 2) I suspect that the leak occurs in the section/feed/nib interface because often I see this zones a little flooded of ink (see photos below) 3) I made a little experiment removing the section and the cap (that is: leaving just the section with the sac, nib and feed) and replacing the cap with a clear plastic small flask (getting sure that the flask inner walls doesn't touch the nib) >>>> in this condition (with the sac filled of ink, obviously) I didn't see any ink leak for several days. 4) After a few measurements I'm sure that the inner cap inner walls doesn't touch the nib surface. 5) During restorations I removed the feed and nib for a deep deep cleaning and polishing (yeah... I know that this practice is not recommended). I made sure to leave the feed and nib in the same position they were originally 6) This leak or 'burp' problem occurs with the pen upside or even in horizontal position. 7) Sometimes a few days passed without any burp but then.... happen. So, I'm disoriented here... have you any recommendation or suggestion? What do you recommend to fix this technical issue? You're my last hope, hahaha. BTW: In the last picture I saw that with the system upside down, the ink doesn't fall to the feed. It is a surface tension issue between the silicone sac and the ink? How can that be fixed? Best regards!!
  25. FarbrorSeb

    Montblanc 12 spindle/knob issue?

    Hoping for some help. The knob on my Montblanc 12 piston filler just twists without the piston moving. Does that mean the spindle head is broken inside the knob? I presume that would be difficult to fix. Everything is friction fitted so it ain’t easy taking the pen apart.





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