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Found 11 results

  1. I just got hold of a couple of NOS Parker 15 pens from the Newhaven-era. One is a Matte Black GT and the other a Energy Yellow Demostrator. I want to create a frankenpen out of the two by using the clear section of the Demo on the Matte Black cap and barrel, but I want the gold nib on this clear section. Anyone knows how to safely remove the nibs out of these pens? Thanks beforehand!
  2. Hello fellow ink users, I don't know where this question fits, so I presume that best bet is "ink" department/forum. Before I go and start looking at youtube videos - I should ask here, where there must be many people who experienced similar problem. In the excitement while inking a new pen, few drops of Iroshizuku Yama Budo and few drops of Ku Jaku - ended up on my kitchen granite countertop. Few drops I managed to clean with water quickly, but few I've noticed to late. Now I have several colorful spots and I cannot remove them. The ink (it seems) seeped into the granite pores. Any tips on how to clean this? Short of - replacing the granite countertop. Thank you !!!! (below is the photo)
  3. outtolunchatty

    Parker 45 Aerometric

    Hi to all,,,is it possible to remove a parker 45 aerometric filller and use a cartridge istead? thanks bob
  4. I finally got my 51(yay!) However, the pen was damaged during transist and there was a deep scratch on barrel which I removed using 1500 grit wet sand paper (read from a forum here) and now I have to remove microscratches from barrel and small scratch|es on cap.Can simichrome be used? And from where can I find replacements (s.s or lustraloy) caps? Thanks
  5. I have a fairly dented Parker 51 cap that I'd like to take the inner cap and innards out for use with an Ariel Kullock fantasy cap. Mine has a metallic clutch ring with oval shapes. I know that there is a special tool for its removal, but it is expensive and not a worthwhile purchase for me. So I came up with an idea, inspired by my watchmaking caseback removal experiences. The plan: supergluing the clutch ring to some kind of a bolt. Then I'd pull the bolt from the cap to remove the clutch ring, and then dissolve them apart with a solvent that will only dissolve the superglue. Does anyone here think this will work? I'm trying to see what might be an obstacle, but if the only thing the special tool does it to grip the ring, I'm thinking the superglue will do the same. Would appreciate any input, thanks.
  6. Hello, I've been looking with no success about how to remove (knock out) the nib/feed of a Waterman Taperite. Seems like the question has been asked in the past but never answered....so not to beat a dead horse, but does anyone have experience/knowledge on how to do this without cracking the section? TIA, James
  7. I am progressing with repair of an Onoto 6233 which arrived solid with ink, with a fossilised cup washer, and the rod broken at the blind cap. My last tasks in disassembly are to remove the pins in the plunger and in the blind cap. Trying to punch them out has proven difficult. I was using a dowel with a short length of stiff 0.8 mm wire embedded in its end, and light taps with a small hammer. Before I get a bigger hammer, I was wondering whether I might not be better off simply drilling them out, using a drill press? I have not tried heat at this point, being a little doubtful of how useful it would be. I could also try the USC as a loosener except the blind cap is BHR which I do not want to immerse too long in water. Of course, I could simply re-use the existing rod by gluing its end into the cap (thus not having to disassemble that part) but the pen would then become difficult to disassemble again without worsening problems. The purist in me does not like that but the practical in me wants a working pen. So, at the moment I am leaning toward drilling out, as I will have new pins anyway. Any thoughts or suggestions on that, or effective things to try which do not require quite the same precision?
  8. Several months ago I posted a thread where i was looking for a Moore replacement nib for a nice, previously restored safety pen with an ill-fitting replacement nib. Even after several helpful leads given to me by members here I was unfortunately unable to find the nib and decided to return the pen, as nice as it was. I just acquired another Moore's safety pen in unrestored condition with the intent of restoring it. This pen has the correct nib but I face a new set of problems removing the washers and cork. The last "restored" Moore pen I had was very easy to disassemble because someone had already gone through the trouble. The shaft unscrewed from the back knob easily and when I looked at the outermost threaded washer I noted that there were 2 small, shallow holes carefully drilled into the surface at 12 and 6 o'clock positions. This was obviously to assist someone in the unscrewing and replacement of the washer. When I went to disassemble this new pen of mine i found the outermost washer has no little holes to fit my tweezers in to unscrew it. I understand I will need to get a heat gun to carefully loosen these threads (there seems to be some shellac covering them) but how in world is a guy supposed to unscrew the washers and if there are no little holes to fit a tool into, how did those Bostonians even install the washers in the first place? Well, I guess my question for the forum is: Am I correct in assuming that I will need to drill 2 tiny, shallow holes in the washer in order to turn it out? Even after applying heat I cannot imaging getting a grip on the washer any other way. Thanks in advance for people's helpful advice, Scribe16
  9. Ok... So ive seen one other thread on this but no answers really... I have preppys on order for testi.g new inks as well as for my baystate colors and other staining inks. My question is is it possible, without scratching the body, to FULLY remove the logo and all paint from the barrel of the pen? Ice seen people take off the wording but leave the white backround... i did see one video where it shows the last couple rubs and it was perfect and he said he used automotive headlight cleaner... Is that the product they sell to remove the fogginess feom headlight covers?!? I dont see vuying a qhole bottle of that just for a couple cheapo pens... So does ANYONE know another way to do it without acratching the pen? Thanks everyone!!!
  10. Just some helpful advice on dealing with ink stains from a 1909 Household hints book I found.
  11. In a $$ pinch you may not have to fork out for a tap set - you might try the following. I removed a J inner cap using a storage hook as a substitute tap. The hook is basically a lag screw which has been bent into a long flat "U." The stage was set when I disassembled a decent (outside) looking J w/2556 nib I recently bought. The barrel jewel was broken, a corroded half of a J-bar (couldn't find the other half), clip was floating on the eyelet, floating band, rusted C ring, and no sac. Sac tray in decent shape, threads OK, and the barrel, cap and section OK with some use - no bites, dings, or deep scratches. I hand drilled out the barrel jewel and proceeded to do so with the cap. Problem -- I drilled through the inner cap. Anyway, I knew I had to get the inner cap out in order to fix the floating clip. So while the cap was soaking in a lightly soapy solution I tried to remember what was in my arsenal in the garage I could readily get at that would work. I had read it needed to be 5/16in but what was recommended - a tap - was out of the $$ realm for me. I figured the next best would be some sort of screw with sharp threads, but what I found were either too small or lacking the "proper" threads. It is hot and muggy here - and inside the garage probably 10-15 degrees hotter than outside. Frustration building for what I had expected to be a quick delivery. Walked around, outside and back in. There they were begging for a chance to do there part. Hanging from the ceiling were these ladder or bike storage hooks. I was pretty sure I had a couple stashed in one of the containers. Hoping it was the first one -- I pulled the one where I kept fasteners and such. There were two inside waiting for a test run. I barely rinsed out the cap and set the screw in to do its work. First try it slipped; second try there was purchase and the inner cap came partially out. It was stuck in the threads!! Luckily I had already drilled out part of the cap's jewel - through there I pushed a small diameter hex wrench and lightly tapped the inner cap out. Finally!! For anyone wishing to try it. Lag screws can be bought at most hardware stores. I would not buy a storage hook as the threads are not consistently sharp the length of the screw. Make sure it is 5/16in for a J, has sharp threads, and is long enough. Most have 8-9 threads per inch - the more threads the better I think. Cut off the first thread (root) and file it down so it will not pierce the inner cap. Having measured the depth of the inner cap mark off a slightly shorter length on the lag screw. Remember that the lag on the screw may not be the same taper as that of the inner cap. Then go for it. Disclaimer: I am clearly not responsible for any damage as a result of YOU repeating part or all of the information provided in this post. Anything can go wrong and it will. So if you have a spare test cap try it first.





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