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  1. Hello all! I am new here, this is my first post. I know there's an "Introductions" section, but I have an ink-related question so I figured I'd keep things neat and contained and just start here, if that's all right with you. (I'll move to Intros if the mods prefer ofc) A short introduction: I'm 22 y/o, from the Netherlands, just finished my bachelor's and currently doing an internship. As such, I have very little money to spend - hence my username! I've always loved fountain pens but for a long time the fountain pen enthusiast world seemed too daunting. Turns out there's nothing daunting to it I own only cheap pens, of course: LAMY Vista (B and EF, the latter being my daily driver), Platinum Carbon Black Desk pen EF, and a clear Pilot Kaküno EF. Can you tell I have a thing for small nibs? Now, my topic: 3 months ago, I ordered some Noodler's Black Eel and Heart of Darkness from an online store in Europe, among some other products. (I don't want to get so specific that someone might guess which store it is.) The other products I received just fine, but they told me the Noodler's inks weren't in stock. I had expected they'd put that on the site before I paid, but alright, they'd deliver it once they had it - they told me 3 weeks tops. After 4 weeks, I contacted them and they told me it was at customs. So I waited. After another 6 weeks I contacted customs myself and found out that the store lied (probably to buy some time): customs in the Netherlands don't hold products like that. I contacted the store again and they apologized profusely, offered to send me an alternative product of my choosing and told me what I already knew: it's one guy making all the inks. They also told me he doesn't have either BE or HoD on hand, he still has to make it. My question: does this story seem at all reasonable/believable to you, based on your experience with Noodler's? Like I said, I know it's one guy making everything by hand. I don't want to push anyone, least of all him, because I know he must have a lot of customers. But I find it hard to believe he doesn't have an ink as common as Heart of Darkness at all in a period of over 12 weeks, especially not for a relatively large European store. What do you guys think? Should I try ordering somewhere else, or just buy another ink (which one?) and expect the HoD somewhere next year? Did something happen to Nathan or is he otherwise engaged? Does this happen more regularly with Noodler's and should I just get used to it? It may sound dumb but I really need these inks. The Black Eel was supposed to be a b'day present for my mother which I bought well on time, but her b'day is less than 5 weeks away now. My daily driver, Vista EF, was inked up with Platinum Carbon Black before and that ink is just disastrous in a Leuchtturm1917 A5 lined journal (feathering, spreading, bleeding), which I used for daily journaling. So I just cleaned out my Vista and waited for HoD, from what I heard a very well-behaved ink. I also intended to start a Bullet Journal in my regular-sized LT1917 which is doable with Platinum, but because of the spread, my Kaküno EF is effectively an F/M, which is too large for the neat writing I'm looking for on a 5x5 grid. Initially I figured I'd wait because it won't take long, and now I wait because I've waited all this time already dangit, but I really miss my (bullet) journaling as a way to improve my mental health. (All this because of some ink, I know, I know, I just underestimated how much I need the journaling). If you'd like to recommend another ink: I'm looking for something blacker than black, well-behaved with low spread, and very preferably something that doesn't budge once dry. (Liquid-y accidents happen in this household and I don't want to lose anything. I also just like the feeling it gives... Everything I put on paper is there to stay. I love that.) I might ask the store for some of Noodler's Black - if they have it... Thank you if you came this far!
  2. So I am looking into purchasing a Platinum 3776 Celluloid at some point and noticed some things that I have a few questions about, so, here they are: 1.) Why are some models so much more expensive than others? Like there is one over $1,000 and there is another for $382. Why? 2.) Are they real celluloid or cellulose acateate? 3.) Is PenSachi a “legit” retailer? It is a lot less expensive like most Japanese retailers, and I was wondering if any of you in the US have had experience with this retailer, I would appreciate if you valued tell your experiences. 4.) Do any of you have this pen? Do you like it? Thank you all in advance for your responses! I really appreciate it. W. H. Major
  3. So I just have a little question.. Why don’t people just change the size of their handwriting to accommodate the nib size? I hear so many people say some things like, ”I would love this pen, but it has a medium nib and it makes my handwriting look blobby.” Or, “I just dislike extra-fine nibs so much, they put down too fine a line for my handwriting.” And when I hear this I just wonder, “Well why don’t you write a little bit bigger or smaller?” I am not talking about people complaining about extra-fine nibs being too toothy or broad nibs being too smooth, but the specific things about people’s upset on how it makes their handwriting look blobby or shaky or whatever else. It just seems like people have their handwriting size set in stone, when I know my handwriting personally gets larger or smaller depending on whether I am using a broad or fine nib. Thank you all for your responses, William
  4. Hello! I've had a Pilot Decimo for probably just around a year now. It's got a F nib, and I have a CON-50 converter installed. I've always used the same ink in it (I believe it's Diamine's Majestic Purple). I've never had any problems with it either, it's worked perfectly! Then, a few months ago (1-2) months, the ink flow just became terrible. It skips, sometimes completely stops, and is terrible to right with. I have to trace my letters five time before you can actually see the entire letter with no skips. I've cleaned out the pen fully (I used just water, I've never used any soap or anything with my pens) and it still doesn't work right. I don't know why it's not working. I really hope I haven't broken it, and I just want my favorite pen to be back to its former glory. The pen used to work so well, does anyone know why it might not be writing correctly? Thank you so much, and dear gosh I hope I put this in the right place.
  5. What are the good triangular pens on the market at the moment? I have a friend asking for recommendations but I realized that I don't know many off of the top of my head other than the Lamy Safari and the TWSBI Eco-T, but she is looking for something more vintage. What would you recommend for a student-level budget? And what are good triangular gripped pens broadly speaking? Thank you!
  6. Hello, Does anyone here own a Pelikan M30 (or variants, i.e. MK10,M25, etc.)? Im planning to buy one (or a Montblanc 14, depending on price and availability) and have a few questions. How well does it hold up to EDCing? What are the dimensions? Does then pen have any special mainatncence needs? Are Pelikan EF nibs very scratchy and are they true <0.5mm EFs? How does it compare to a Montblanc 14 (or 24,74,12, etc.)? What would be a good base price for a NOS M30 in EF? Thanks.
  7. cipherMagala

    Hallo From Austria

    Hey everybody, until last year I mainly watched Youtube-videos, sometimes red reviews online and bought way to many TWSBIs but now I finally signed up here! I have a question on where to post certain stuff on this forum: I recently created a website and I'd be really interested in hearing some feedback! I'm just not sure where to i'm supposed to post. (If this is important, it's basically a fountain pen search that doesn't sell anything but just links to stores. The URL is www.fpfinder.com) Thank you in advance! Cipher
  8. Hello. Passed a newsagent a few weeks ago with Mars Lumographs on sale and bought it. The new formula is very different. Its more like normal graphite than the old one, which was similar to a compressed charcoal. Any thoughts?
  9. Hey everyone! So I've been hunting for a new fountain pen for the last while and was recommended to look into the Franklin-Christoph offerings. One in particular caught my eye, the Model 40 Panther. On Franklin-Christoph's website it says they come out infrequently, I was hoping to acquire one due to how beautiful it looks but they are not in stock. Are they on a rotating schedule or do they only come out at random? Thanks!
  10. Hey Everyone! My best friend was the one that got my into fountain pens the first place and his birthday is in 3 months and I want to get him something special. I like giving gifts that are personal and something that people can use all the time. Any recommendations? What would you want in gift that speaks to your personality?
  11. I've been collecting fountain pens for a while now, but my oldest pen is just a Parker 95 (manufactured in 1988, so just shy of 30 years old). I'm currently looking to vastly increase that number in hopes of owning a piece of early fountain pen history. The two pens I'm currently looking at are a Mabie Todd Swan (1884/1887(?) +) or a Waterman 52 (1915 +, so just barely applicable). From the research I've done, these two pens definitely stand out but it's by no means a conclusive decision. I'm looking for at least a few of the following qualities: Gold (tipped) NibAt least a semi-flex nib (as an available not-rare option)While capped, no smaller than ~5 inches or 15.5mmCan be found in working condition for under $200 USDReliable brand that doesn't require tons of maintenanceNot a dip pen (just don't have much use for one) I don't really care about the filling method, and the brand doesn't matter as long as it meets most of the criteria. I'm not very interested in sets so that doesn't affect my budget. A minor preference is that the pen was manufactured before 1914 to put it before WWI, but I know there was a "boom" of fountain pens during and just after the war that I wouldn't want to exclude for such a petty reason. I look forward to reading any suggestions!
  12. I was surfing around, looking for a nice Parker fountain pen for a reasonable price (I really love Sonnets and Duofolds too, but they are too expensive for my budget unfortunately). I ended up finding I found two IM's which I really like and I'm debating a bit over whether choosing this one in case I got a new Parker fountain pen (I have 45 and Jotter pencils and Jotter pens so far). (Also looked at Vector and Premier, but I like IM the best so far.) I'm curious for your opinions about it, like how practical and comfortable it is, if it's good for longer writing and maybe some not-so-professional calligraphic writing (for example for Christmas greetings) and so on. I attach two pictures of the ones I like the most so far The blue one is a Parker IM metal fountain pen and the green one says Parker IM Premium Vacumatic Emerald Pearl CT.
  13. emknickerbocker

    Sticky Noodler's Konrad

    Hi all, tia for any input you're able to give me. I have a Noodler's Konrad, that I've kind of been through the wringer with, when I got it the nib was disastrously stuck. I ended up smashing the fins on the feed trying to get it out, and needed to order a replacement. Fast forward a year or so, the plunger mechanism(at least I assume that's what it's called- the twisty bit under the cap on the end to draw ink into the body of the pen- excuse my relative noob-ness) is so tight that I feel like I'm going to break it when I ink it up, with how much I have to torque it to get it to turn that first bit. My rather long winded, question is: is this normal, is there a problem with my pen that I've been oblivious to, and is there anything I can do to make the piston turn a bit smoother? Could the tightness in the body/piston of the pen be related to how tight the nib/feed was when I first purchased the pen?
  14. Hey, everyone! This is my first post here on the FPN and I have a question for all you out there who own a Visconti Rembrandt. Recently I have been thinking of buying a Rembrandt because something about it just captivates me and draws me in but I have concerns over whether or not I will enjoy the pen seeing as how it has a metal section. I own a Parker IM rollerball with a metal section that I absolutely hate and don't want to buy the Visconti if that will be the case. Does anyone have and helpful input on this matter? Thanks in advance!
  15. EH86055

    Is My 149 Real Or Fake?

    I have a MB 149 I acquired today,but under the clip,instead of 'Germany' or 'Pix', it says Made in Germany Metal Is this a real MB? Info: Bought today in Sydney from a Montblanc store Medium nib Help! The photo is hard to see,but if you look carefully,though you can't read the writing,it is clear that is not one of the two normal words.
  16. Hi, I draw with Tashikawa calibrated pen /0,1mm/. It come with cartridge, which lasts about 3 days of drawing. Are there any possibilty to find a converter to pen? If not, are any calibrated pen 0.1mm or just a fountain pen with very fine nib? Thanks UPDATE - it s TaChikawa, not TaShikawa. Sorry
  17. mostlyutalitarian

    Clear Cap Twsbi Eco

    Hi. I'm new to fountain pens and never used one which is all clear. I love the look of the clear Eco, but I'm not sure about the cap. The current pen I have is a Pilot MR, as a gift. The cap of that is sometimes dirty with ink and difficult to clean. I assume a lot of it is to do with the click cap and not twist though. How is the clear cap of the Eco? Does it get ink in it too so I'd need to clean it a lot? and how do I clean it? Thanks!
  18. queerspaceman

    Stupid Question

    hey y'all, this is probably quite a dumb question, but what does EDC stand for? Thanks!
  19. I recently bought this pen as my interest in fountain pens got more profound. I found this online and bought it as it seemed cheap for its appearance. Can anyone help me identify this Parker pen??? On the nib, it says "14K PO U.S.A" and the nib seemed to be flat and slanted. thank you
  20. Hello. I apologize if this is the wrong location to post this question. I have a Pilot Vanishing point with a Medium nib. I like to work in locations that would make refilling my pen from a bottle difficult and messy. Unfortunately by the mid afternoon my pen has run dry. I have an extra Con-50 converter and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for transporting this extra converter filled with ink (so that it doesn't leak everywhere). Any thoughts or additional ideas will be warmly received! If this is the incorrect place to post (I'm a newbie) please point me to the right location. Thanks!
  21. Although I have tried numerous plastic propelling pencils over the last few years at various price-points (including some from good brands like Faber-Castell), I have been unable to find a decent, reliable pencil that I enjoy using. I hope you may be able to help me in my search. Having done some homework, I'm now looking to buy a pencil for all-round use, to live with my fountain pens in my pen-case and be available both at my desk and when I'm travelling. Specifically, I'm looking for a metal mechanical pencil for writing and occasionally sketching - don't foresee needing to use the pencil for precise drafting or technical drawing. The following three products seem to be my best options: * TWSBI mechanical pencil (0.5 or 0.7 lead) * Rotring 800 (0.5 or 0.7) * Rotring 600 Japan spec (0.3) I have no experience at all with Rotring, and I know (and like) TWSBI's fountain pens. The Rotring 800 costs nearly twice as much as the TWSBI. But I'm looking to get something that I'll use regularly for many years, so I know that if I were to choose the 800 and be happy with it, the extra price paid would seem insignificant compared with the greater ongoing utility it got from its use. But I don't want to pay more for features that won't appeal. All else being equal, I have a preference for a uniform colour, and black rather than silver (otherwise I might also consider the Pilot Automatic). A couple of further points. First, I can't stand pencils with a soft, cushioned writing experience; for me, the lead needs to hit the paper and stay where I want it, not partially disappear back into the pen at the slightest pressure. Second, though I can happily use pens in the Pelikan 200/400 size, my ideal FP size is something like the Pelikan M800 - a skinny little pencil will really not do it for me if I'm going to be sketching or writing more than a few words. I'm not sure of the best lead width for me. I've used 0.7 before, and although that's perfectly unobjectionable, I am wondering whether a thinner line might not suit me better. I'll probably end up going for a 0.5 line, but I've put the 0.3 Japanese spec model in because the idea of being able to write with a really thin line appeals (provided it is easily-visible on the page). I would be very grateful for help in deciding which to go for.
  22. There have been many Sheaffer re-issues all the way from PFMs to Balances. Which is the best and why ?
  23. Howdy FPN! I hope everyone's having a good day, recovering from Christmas. I have a new (to me) Parker 61 in black with a gold-filled cap coming my way for a late Christmas present to myself; and I was wondering how often is "often enough" to use it and keep the ink from drying up. So P61 users, please chime in, does it need to be used every day? Is not using it over a weekend enough time to dry one up?
  24. ScottyRobotic

    Name That Sheaffer!

    I have been ubable to identify this pen. It is dark brown, with a screw cap. I believe it is vintage. I am afraid that is all I know. Any assistance is appreciated.
  25. ScottyRobotic

    Name That Waterman!

    Can someone please help me identify this pen? Any info is helpful. Thanks!





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