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Found 14 results

  1. Gday everyone, Long time lurker first time poster I'd like to jump straight into it and go ahead and say that I've been having problems (or should i say A problem) with my Noodlers Bulletproof black. It's an absolutely wonderful ink in pretty much every way, except one. My 'Online German: Event' Pen doesn't seem to agree with the Noodlers ink. (I have a Noodlers Flex pen inked up in Noodlers black which works perfectly fine) I've inked it up through a converter and for about, I would say the first page and a half of writing, it writes fine. It flows well with no skipping etc. However once that 1-2 page thresh-hold has been passed the problems occur: The flow becomes weaker and the nib starts to dry outMinor skipping occurs (some shaking and tapping remedies this)Flow becomes near non-existent Every second stroke skips (No amount of shaking or tapping or wetting the nib remedies this)​I've went back and talked to the boutique owner and he says that he's not surprised that an American ink, especially the 'Bulletproof' line, works poorly with a European pen. At first I thought that maybe there was a problem with the nib/feed. However after purchasing some J-Herbin and Mont-Blanc inks I'm starting to think he may be right. MY PEN WRITES PERFECTLY!! It's a very wet writer and has never skipped or been prone to dry or anything of the sort. I decided to brave the Noodlers in my Online German again, but alas, the same exact problem. I've recently read a post somewhere that the Noodlers 'Bulletproof' line is not a very well lubricated ink and is prone to flowing problems. Anyway tell me what you guys think of my situation and if you've had any similar problems with any of the Noodlers inks. ​
  2. Hi all, I bought a NOS opera club recently with a Medium Palladium nib. It lays down a great and wet line. The only problem is, the ink gets drier and drier and finally it will be completely dry although there is still ink in the converter. What I have to do is to tap the nib a few times on paper or prime the nib and it will write again for a while. These writing cycles are typically for 4 pages on my A5 journal. Visual inspection on the tines does not look like anything wrong and the nib and feed seems to be aligned properly I brought the pen back to the place where I bought it and the repair person introduced a small spring agitator into the converter of the pen. I did not like this because when the pen is riding in my pocket for a while, a lot of ink ends up inside of the cap until there is a black ring around the pen. The first time I noticed these symptoms I used Iroshizuku Pilot ink, then I used Diamine black Oynx. Any help is greatly appreciated as other than this small problem the pen writes great.
  3. Has anyone had issues with Noodler's Black Swan in Australian Roses not shading? I recently purchased my first bottle and loaded it into a pen with Goulet stub nib that worked wonderfully with other shading inks, but Black Swan looks dull and flat with very little shading. It also feels dry coming out of the pen. Yes, I fully cleaned it before filling it. And yes I've tried it on quality paper, including Rhodia, Mnemosyne, Fabriano, Midori and HP Premium Laser - no distinct shading on any of them. I also dip tested with a bold nib and had the same result. Any thoughts?
  4. I really do like sheen, I think that it and shading are the two most beautiful properties you can have in an ink, but after some research, it looks like the best way to get sheen is to use an ink resistant paper. Now, that wouldn't be a problem, but I'm left-handed! What kind of papers should I use to get sheen while not letting my hand blot the ink everywhere and ending up with a blue/purple/red left hand? If it helps, when I write, the pen will usually be about 3-4 cm away from my hand, long fingers (this might help with allowing a little more dry time). Thanks!
  5. Dear all, while I was browsing the web since I noticed this week again that my handwriting is ruined by my job I came across this forum. I think some people here can understand my situation. My handwriting was never prefect but quite nice. A friend once said it's as accurate as a typewriter (different typo...). That was maybe 20 years ago. In the meantime I wrote a lot, daily, doin' my job. Always quick often with a rough surface, never spending a thought about my writing but trying to keep up the speed of writing with my mind. This sometimes let to the paradox situation that I had problems reading my own handwriting even after a very short time. Mind too busy to track all my writings. Also for practical reasons I switched over to pencils some 15 years ago. And now I am here, what I do not write with the pencil I quickly write on a computer's keyboard. And my handwriting has almost gone. I realized this again last holiday's season when I was writing a small set of cards. So today I decided to get out my old fountain pen. Search the ink (found it!) and now try to find some time daily to write everything not to be written down within a second with my old pen. And on vacation all the notes no more on the laptop but with my fountain pen in a notebook. I always have a notebook with me but I do not use it all the time. And I will finally buy me that kind of fountain pen which I could not afford back in the days. Just wanted to leave you a note. And yes, browsing the forum made me looking for my old pen. So you did a good job. Ileach
  6. Hi Everyone, Purple Inky Fingers here. My new Noodler's Ahab in -- what else? -- King Philip Purple worked for the first few months (it has taken me months to get up the wherewithal to ink it**) and then it just stopped working. Because I was using -- what else? -- Noodler's Grape, I assumed that the ink had run out. I opened the pen and discovered that there was plenty of ink (now on my hands) and the feeding tube was wandering around. With great effort I have tried to reset the feeding tube and screw the pen together. And it won't work. I can set the tube, but cannot screw the body together. It's as if it's stripped. I'm now soaking everything -- and I'm sorry I can't post video, but there's no one to hold the camera! Can anyone offer advice? **Note that I have a bad temper with these pens. I was a real newbie when I bought a lot of them in 2011-12 and never was able to make them work consistently. (I had two new pens in which the nibs jammed in the caps.) I even wrote to Nathan about it, but never received a reply. Thanks all!
  7. Hello all! I want to tell you all about an issue with the Black (specifically) Monteverde Tool, and pass along a few tips. First, to be fair, I want to say Monteverde USA quickly shipped a replacement when I described the problem to them. Excellent customer service! Now, the problem. A couple of weeks after I got it, the pen's matte black paint began to disintigrate. When it got too bad to ignore, I found I could easily scrape it off with a fingernail. I've attached a picture. Clue: The clip side's paint remained as hard as ever. Clue: It's a tool. I keep it clipped to the inside of my T-shirt collar. This is when I contacted Monteverde and they sent the new pen. The service rep said "This occurred on part of a shipment." OK. Still, before taking the new pen out of its box (except briefly to admire), I decided to try wearing the old pen the other way 'round (clipped to a lanyard around my neck). Clue: After two days against my skin, the clip-side paint was soft too, except under the clip. Conclusion: The matte black paint can soften after prolonged skin contact! (For the record, the glossy black parts seem entirely unaffected.) Possible factor: I'm a type II diabetic and I try to limit my carbohydrate intake, so my sweat probably contains more acetone than is normal. (A little is normal, I gather, if you're burning fat.) If the acetone really is to blame, your mileage will almost certainly vary. It's worth wondering if the softening factor applied by brief skin contact is volatile enough to disperse over time. Maybe the paint, once softened, will harden again if not damaged first. I wouldn't count on it. I've asked the service rep if the new pen's paint is a different type that won't soften. It certainly seems the same. I'll tell you all what she says when she replies. But even then, I'm probably going to handle the new pen with kid (or rubber) gloves. Fortunately I still have my ratty old pen, which is, after all, a tool, and doesn't look bad stripped down to bare metal: Someday maybe I'll strip out the white paint and antique the engraving. Quick Tips: (Seen elsewhere on FPN) Slide the cap under the clip to avoid losing it. Yes it marks the paint (on mine at least), but the mark is hidden. Don't overtighten the cap. If you're too strong, it's possible to turn the section, distorting the interference grooves that hold its angle. The screwdriver can hit the inside of the stylus dome if it's not secure. I worry it'll cause wear, so if the pen rattles, I immediately open the back and secure the screwdriver (push it in till it clicks). I will probably cut a couple of strategic grooves on the screwdriver, to give my thumbnail purchase to pull it out. My fingers are too big. Fill your Tool with Noodler's Blackerase Watererase ink. Then it'll mark plastics and metal (all those I've tried, more or less adequately). Try the back of the nib (low angle) to mark soft things. Someone mentioned you can't use the pen and straightedge/ruler at the same time. Yes you can. Pull out the pen section. It works well enough for making a mark. Cool: take out the screwdriver and shine your Noodler's UV light into the hole. The level lights up like a Green Lantern. (This works almost as well if you leave the back cap on and just shine UV into the level's slot. If you insist on being prosaic.)Thanks for reading! [mwb: Sorry for all the small edits. I like to refine, but I'm new here and I thought I might lose work if I didn't save a draft quickly.]
  8. Exchletzia

    Pilot Metropolitan Repairs?

    I have just recently purchased two Pilot Metropolitans. After minimal use of the first one the cap no longer snaps onto the pen, but has to be pushed down and twisted to get it to close, and even then the seal is very weak and often springs the cap back off. I am certain that it is not a problem with the pen, but with the cap because the cap from my other pilot metropolitan will snap securely onto both pen bodies, but the broken cap will not snap properly. Does anyone have experience with this issue and/or know how I might be able to fix it? Thanks!
  9. btreloar

    Writing Woes, Parker Im

    I bought a new Parker IM online at a very good price, and I loved it. The look, the heft, the finish, and the writing were great. Within the first month I dropped it (with the cap on), and it landed on the nib end of the cap and the cap was no longer held securely. I requested a replacement cap from the company but they required me to return the entire pen. The one they sent back has never written. I've flushed multiple times with water, and I can get it (with considerable effort) to write. But after it sits overnight it simply won't write at all without being re-flushed. Blaming it on being a refurbished pen, I complained and Parker sent me another. This one, too, isn't up to thew quality of the first one I'd bought on Amazon. This one also refuses to write after sitting overnight, but after I scribble with it awhile I can get the ink flowing reasonably well, though it does skip unacceptably for awhile. Since the pen was inexpensive, I tried my luck buying another from Amazon, and I'm very happy with that one. So my puzzle is what to do with the two problem pens I have. I'd love to reahbilitate them and be able to use them, but I have no idea what's wrong or how to atampt to fix it. Any suggestions?
  10. Hey guys, quick question! I recently purchased a bottle of Mont Blanc Toffee Brown ink, and the color is amazing. However...the ink starts out nice and brown, and dries an almost greenish, moldy color. I've look around and I haven't seen anyone with the same problems as I have had. There is also some green residue inside the cap and around the glass rim, which has me thinking, again, about mold. Has anyone else experienced the same thing? Thanks!!
  11. I'm thinking about buying a Faber-Castell Ambition (black), but I'm a bit skeptical. Please help if you own one. There seem to be some unclear issues: 1. Does the resin body crack when screwed too tight? This seems to only be a problem with the black version, as the others have metal threads. 2. Does the the cap stop clicking in place? I read a review that said after 2 months the cap wouldn't click to the body 3. Is the grip section uncomfortable? It looks like it is. Also, how would it compare to a TWSBI 580/ Classic? Help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  12. So Recently I just bought a Monteverde Invincia Stealth (about 5 days ago) And I've been having some really annoying problems with flow and skipping. The pen just downright does not want to start up unless I shake or tap it, or twist the piston to push more ink through. When it does get started up, after a few sentences it starts to skip. Then goes back to being completely dry, until I once again tap/twist/shake. Just rinse and repeat, that's my problem. I've flushed the pen several times with distilled water and once with a tiny bit of dish soap. I've also tried several different inks, J-herbin, Noodlers, Monteverde, Lamy. still the exact same problem, So I believe the issue lies with the pen itself. I've sent in an email to Yafa to claim warranty. I'm thinking is it just worth it to take it to a local fountain pen repair shop to see if they can fix the problem. or should I pay the $20 or so postage to send the pen in for warranty and wait another month for it to get back? Is this a problem that's easily fixable (ie. Local repair shop) or should I play it safe if it is a more major problem (Send it in for Warranty). Or option 3- Can I myself do anything about it? (not very keen on doing any DIY, rather leave it to the pros)
  13. So i got a bottle of baystate blue.... also got a preppy for obvious reasons... Went well for about 3 days. Wrote great, flowed great, looked great on paper. Then last night, all of a sudden the flow just stopped. .. I noticed the finsin the feed had filled more over the three days, as well as the threads on the barrel even though i iaed silicone grease and an o-ring to convert it to an ED (but not leaking).... I tried wiping the nib (which was covered in the ink,) wiping it with a wet napkin, flossing the tines (best i could without trying to remove tye nib from the feed.... nothing. Tried dropping it nib down into a cup of water and niticed some flow coming out of the nib, so i dried it a bit, but still nothing. Finally, i opened tge barrel and put in 5 or so drops of water. Now after letting it sit, it does write but having bad start issues and will still stop, skip, and all other sorts of annoying things. My question is, what did i do wrong?? Ive heard of people leaving theirs for weeks and picking them up and writing fine!!! :-( im sad because i like the cokor but wont put it in another pen. PLEASE HELP!!!
  14. I bought my pelikan m200 from a seller in Germany. I only got the pen (no case). I cleaned it and then I let it dry a bit. I inked it, and it started to skip! I tried to fix it and it sort of worked (doesn't skip anymore), but I may have grinded it a little too much and I turned it into a broad nib (from a medium nib). Now I'm not sure if I want to sell it or just buy a new nib. I sort of want to sell it because I don't really have any use for the broad nib, but I like the feel of the pelikan. Any recommendations? Here's a writing sample. Is my nib supposed to flex that much? Or did I just tamper with it too much. Would anyone actually buy this? The Rhodia pad is the before the grinding, and the nondescript paper is after the grinding. http://i.imgur.com/Mt6bJku.jpg

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