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Found 16 results

  1. From the album: Mercian’s pens

    A picture to show the detail of these green pens’ caps & nibs. The 1990/91 M800 has an ‘M’ nib that is marked with the ‘Eagle’s head’ French assay mark for 18k gold, and the Swiss(?) ‘PF’ stamp too; The 1954 400 has one of the ‘script’ nibs, marked ‘F’ It has a beautifully-crisp italic grind, which is very similar to that of the ‘F’ nib on my modern Pilot Plumix - except that it also flexes a bit Pelikan has not made nibs like this for decades now - so anyone who asks to borrow this pen or nib is, in essence, testing my fool-pitying skills The 450 pencil is how I am confident that the 400 (& it) date to 1954. I bought them as a set. Various elements on the pen indicate that it is from late 1953 or early 1954. I assumed that the pencil would take leads of 1.18mm calibre, so paid a lot of money for some hand-made leads from Yard-o-Led, only to find that they won’t fit in to my 450! I then bought some cheap 0.9mm calibre leads, and those do fit in to my 450. I have downloaded a copy of the 1953 Pelikan catalogue. Only 1.18mm calibre leads are mentioned in it. So I doubt that my 450 dates to 1953. I also have a downloaded copy of the 1955 Pelikan catalogue. That one mentions that there are two versions of the 450; one that takes 1.18mm calibre lead, and one that takes 0.9mm calibre leads.

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  2. From the album: Mercian’s pens

    This is one view of the pens (& pencil) I own that would definitely be meet for inclusion in ‘Green Pen club’. They are: my 1990/91 Pelikan M800; my 1954 Pelikan 400; my 1954 Pelikan 450 pencil. Neither the fascinating chatoyance of the pens’ green stripes, nor the exemplary clarity of their barrels, really shows up very well on this photograph. I blame the numpty who took the photo!

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  3. The section has become detached from the barrel of my Pelikan M400. Any advice about how to reattach it? Brian
  4. *english is not my first language so bear with me* Hello there, I have recently tried to restore the '50 pelikan 400 with a 14K EF nib from my grandfather and have in my opinion done a pretty good job. The nib however is something I am stuck on. It feels scratchy when held at certain angles and (although pretty rarely) catches on the paper on the upstoke. As you will see on the included pictures, the right tine is slightly bent but the tips of the tines come together ok-ish. I've tried to correct this bend but I couldn't do it since I couldn't separate the nib from the nibunit and the nib is very flexible, so just bending it a tiny bit doesn't have a lasting effect. I like it being an EF so regrinding is not really something I want to do. Does anyone know how I repair this or maybe know someone who can do this (I live in Belgium, so someone who lives in europe would be fantastic). I love this pen to bits and would like to bring this pen to its former glory, so to speak. A massive Thanks in advance!
  5. Dear All, I emailed Rick Propas about buying vintage pelikan 400 and 400N series. He gave good offer for the pens. But i am confused and i am also new to vintage pens. Pelikan 400N is costlier and 400 is cheapest. I have seen no post (AFAIK) on buying 400N in FPN. What is special about 400N than that of 400 or a 400NN? Please advice on whether to get 400 or 400N. Thanks in advance.
  6. EdwardSouthgate

    My First Pelikan

    Got this set coming from Germany . The seller says the box is from the 80's an the pen and pencil ( 400 / 450 ) are from the 1950's . Does this seem correct ? Nib is an OB. Looks good , hoping for some flex . Being my first Pelikan but not my first piston filler is there any advice I should be aware of specific to Pelikan ? I usually use Quink or Mont Blanc or some ancient Scrip in Ruby and Emerald , anything new you would suggest ? I like the look of an orange on yellow legal pads but have not used an orange n a Fountain Pen , any suggestions ? All input is appreciated . Eddie PS : I got the set for less than $240 , last set I bid on went over $400 so I think I did alright .
  7. JPM-10

    Pelikan 400 Kf Nib?

    Dear friends, I recently acquired a new pelikan pen with a very nice nib. I thought it was a normal nib, but upon closser look it is a bit different from a regular F or M nib. As I am not sure I ask for your help on trying to find out what type of nib it is. After a survey of internet pages I think it is a Kugelspitze Nib , a KF or KM nib. Is this correct?? You can keep the pen side ways, in reverse position, the nib keeps on functioning. It is the only nib I have that is able to do this, to keep on going regardles of angle or orientation of the pen. It is a beauty of a nib and pen. Writes very nice. Who can help me out? See the pictures. Thanks in advance.
  8. Bellow you will find the following Pelikan pens for sale. Express shipping with Fedex Express ( 1 to 3 days) depending on your location is included in the price for pens over 150USD. Bellow that shipping will be regular registered with tracking number. 1-2 day in Europe 2-3 days to North America, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Singapore 3 days to rest of the world Please contact me to penalusa@sapo.pt if you need more details or information. You can find all pen with HD pictures and details in this link at Pena Lusa There you can also do buy it now using paypal. http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w580/Vasco_Correia_Pisco/INGENIVM-PC/March%202016/IMG_1601_zpsarlc55lq.jpg #1- PELIKAN M1050 BLACK W/ VERMEIL CAP EF 18C NIB – 1000USD Condition: NEAR MINT Sterling silver ( 925) rolled gold cap ( Vermeil) No dings or major scratches in cap, only lite traces of gentle use. No cracks or scratches in body. Huge 18C EF gold nib with flex. Very pleasant nib!! PF mark. PF stands for Pelikan Fabrik, meaning it was produced in-house by Pelikan and not by Bock Ready to write #2-PELIKAN M900 TOLEDO OLD STYLE 6 FEATHERS PELIKAN VERY RARE- 1000USD Condition: NEAR MINT Very rare early M900 Toledo with 6 feathers in Pelikano´s mother wing. Usually are 4 ( early ones or 5 all the others). After some research I could only find another reference online to M900 with a 6 feathers specimen. EF 18C gold nib with PF mark ( PF stands for Pelikan Fabrik, meaning it was produced in-house by Pelikan and not by Bock. 925 marking in sleeve, instead of the more usual ag925 mark. Germany imprint in cap ring No cracks or scratches Piston lubed and ready to write #3- PELIKAN 100N BLACK F EXTRA FLEX NIB C. 1942- 275USD Condition: Excellent Circa 1942 Green celluloid, all remaining parts in celluloid ( except feed - BHR) 585 (14K) gold nib- F Extra flex!. Transparent inkwindow No cracks or scratches Very lite wear at the clip Serviced and ready to write. #4 – PELIKAN 400 TORTOISESHELL B STUBISH FLEX NIB C. 1951- SOLD Condition: Excellent to near mint Circa 1951 Perfect transparent inkwindow B 14K Flex Stubish nib. No cracks or scratches Very lite wear at the clip Serviced and ready to write. #5– PELIKAN 400NN TORTOISESHELL B SEMI FLEX NIB C. 1957- 190USD Condition: Near mint Circa 1957 Perfect transparent inkwindow B 14K Semi- Flex nib. No cracks or scratches Serviced and ready to write. #6– PELIKAN 400NN STRIPED GREEN EF SEMI FLEX NIB C. 1957-160USD Condition: Excellent Circa 1957 Perfect transparent inkwindow 2mm long micro hairline in cap otherwise near mint. I could not captured it on picture EF 14K Semi- Flex nib No other cracks or scratches Serviced and ready to write. #7– PELIKAN M400 TORTOISESHELL OLD STYLE M SEMI FLEX NIB C.1990 - SOLD Condition: NEW OLD STOCK NEVER INKED Circa 1990 MEDIUM Semi- Flex 14K nib Germany in cap ring M sticker in barrel. #8– PELIKAN M250 MARBLED BLUE OLD STYLE F SEMI FLEX C. 1985 - 170USD Condition: Near Mint Item for export, the blue marbled M250 (with 14 ct gold nib) is documented in a Japanese leaflet. Fine (F)Semi- Flex nib W.Germany in cap ring Serviced and ready to write #9– PELIKAN M400 OLD STYLE BB SEMI FLEX NIB C. 1987 - 190USD Condition: Excellent condition Circa 1987 Double Broad Semi- Flex to Flex nib, Superb nib!! W Germany in cap ring Serviced and ready to write #10– PELIKAN M400 OLD STYLE F SEMI FLEX NIB C. CIRCA 1987 -SOLD Condition: Excellent condition Circa 1987 Fine (F)Semi- Flex nib. W Germany in cap ring Elegantly engraved in cap “H.W. K B.” and “ CH. L” Serviced and ready to write #11– PELIKAN M150 OLD STLYLE F STEEL NIB C. CIRCA 1983 - 160USD Condition: Excellent condition Circa 1983 Fine (F)STEEL nib. W Germany in cap ring Serviced and ready to write #12– PELIKAN D600 MECHANICAL PENCIL EARLY MODEL - 160USD Condition: Near Mint Early version of D600 pencil, no longer produced. Produced to match the early M600 Fountain pen that was of the M400 size. Takes 0,5mm leads Etched Pelikan symbol in top cap Ready to write
  9. Hedgehogs4Me

    Softest/flexiest Pelikan 400 Nibs?

    Hi guys, looking at potentially getting a Pelikan 400 sometime soon, but, of course, there are so many differnet ones that have been made. Friction fit script, screw in unit script, logo, logo in 400N, logo in 400NN, logo in 400NN M&K... which ones usually will have the most flexibility (or easiest flex)? I won't be using this for calligraphy or anything, but I do like to put some flair on my signatures and writing every so often and I'd love to have some breathing room for how far I can push it. Thanks! (Also, is there anything else I should know before buying one? This kind of purchase always makes me nervous!)
  10. von Fraker

    Pelikan M400 Nib

    I picked up a W. German Pelikan M400 at an estate sale and it has a broken nib. What would be the best fix for this? A new replacement? Repaired/retipped? Ground to an italic or cursive italic? I currently have a M200 nib in it but have heard that the 400 nibs are nice. Too bad my first one was damaged. Thank you, Rob F.
  11. kircher

    Pelikan 400: What To Do?

    Hello everybody! today, I've got my first Pelikan 400. It's a model from the 1950s with an OB nib. In principle I'm not to favourable to O nibs, but this pen was too beautiful. I'm now wondering what I should do first, because I almost don't there to touch it. Should I fill the reservoir with lukewarm water before using it? Thanks for your experienced suggestions!
  12. I love my Pelikan 400 http://www11.pic-upload.de/06.10.14/ebst5h27zqe.jpg http://www11.pic-upload.de/06.10.14/vcmr5kok6f.jpg http://www11.pic-upload.de/06.10.14/edvxrlpragr.jpg
  13. After a few months of regular use I can honestly say that Pelikan 400 is a great pen. It has never failed since It appeared on my doorstep. Now I have three of them in my flock (EF, F and OM nibs): http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll125/Arieln_photo/Pelikan_400.jpg By the way, 450 pencil is also as great as the fountain pen itself. Balance and overall quality are on really good level. How about you? Do you use your 400 as a daily carry pen?
  14. Here are my thoughts on the Vintage Pelikan 400 EF Tortoise I recently received. For comparison, I'll rely heavily on my experience with a modern Pelikan M600 Souveran and a Lamy 2000. First Impressions (10) The Pelikan 400 is absolutely gorgeous with the tortoise finish! I love the color variations. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3818/9689506858_0e1703f821_b.jpg Vintage Pelikan 400 & Modern Pelikan M600 Souveran by astrophoenix, on Flickr Appearance and Design (10) On first glance, the 400 looks just like a modern Pelikan Souveran, only missing some gold bands (which I personally think are a bit over the top anyway). The piston-turning knob, the barrel, the cap, and the section are pretty much exactly the same shape as the modern pens. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/9686271465_00018c3127_b.jpgVintage Pelikan 400 & Modern Pelikan M600 Souveran by astrophoenix, on Flickr as you look a bit closer, you can start to pick out some differences: the piston-turning knob on a modern Souveran has much "sharper" edges than on the vintage 400, and lacks the marking of the nib line width. The nibs look quite a bit different, even though both are 14K gold nibs. The emblem on the top of the cap is probably the most pronounced difference to the casual observer, with the modern gold emblem which relies on texture for contrast, versus the simpler etched design of the vintage 400: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3767/9688991580_0d232c738c_b.jpgPelikan 400 Tortoise by astrophoenix, on Flickr In general, I would never think to myself, "I want to add a pen in the color brown to my collection". but there is brown, and then there is this: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2871/9685752267_29efd694db_b.jpgPelikan 400 Tortoise by astrophoenix, on Flickr http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3680/9685751943_3659824876_b.jpgPelikan 400 Tortoise by astrophoenix, on Flickr This type of brown made me lose my mind with desire. I'm only exaggerating a little bit, here. I love the way different lighting brings out different elements of the stripes. There are some red patches in there. there are a few stripes which look like marble. and of course there are darker smoky-looking patches, as well as honey and yellow. The non-tortoise parts of the pen actually are a dark brown, so dark they almost look black (difficult to pick out in most of the photos). so ok, yes, I did add a brown pen to my collection! Another big difference between the vintage 400 and a modern Pelikan M600 is the material the pens are made from. The modern pen feels like sturdy and smooth plastic in the hand. the 400 feels much more textured. the smoothness of the M600's material makes the stripes on the barrel seem flatter; my mind says "a material that smooth can't have stripes, they must be under the surface somehow". The subtle texture of the 400, on the other hand, makes the tortoise stripes come alive, as if they are part of the "skin" of the pen. I think it could be best summed up as, the M600 feels modern, static, cold; the 400 feels dynamic, organic, and living, almost like it should be breathing. Construction and Quality (9) This Pelikan 400 is somewhere between 59 and 64 years old at the time of this writing (2013-09-06), so I think its construction and quality are very high. The Piston turns easily and smoothly. I was a little shocked at how smoothly it turned. I'd give it a 10, but the piston seal did leak a little bit when I was flushing all the old ink out of it. (inky water came out at the top, near the piston-filling knob) I need to pull the piston out and probably lubricate the seals or possibly re-cork it. This requires a special tool though, which I don't have yet. The modern pelikans' piston can be removed with the wrench TWSBI ships with their pens, which is a really nice bonus. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2812/9685753045_f3e5a19417_b.jpgPelikan 400 Tortoise by astrophoenix, on Flickr Weight and Dimensions (8) The Pelikan 400 is a somewhat light pen, but heavier than I remember the Pelikan M200 Souveran being, which is good, since the M200 was too light for me. when I hold the 400 in one hand and the modern Pelikan M600 Souveran in the other, I think the M600 is just perceptibly heavier. which makes sense: the M600 has a larger nib, a larger section, a larger cap, a larger piston-turning knob, and the barrel of the pen has a slightly higher diameter than that of the 400. The barrels (at least the colored parts) of the 400 and the M600 seem to be the same length. The Pelikan 400 is noticeably lighter than my Lamy 2000 (again holding each in opposite hands). I can write comfortably with my M600 unposted, but I prefer it posted. the 400, on the other hand, was just slightly shorter enough to keep me from writing unposted. I'd probably be happier if the 400 were the size of the M600, but I don't mind its very slightly smaller size too much. Nib & Performance (8) This 400 has an EF nib. One of the reasons I wanted a vintage pelikan was to try out a flexible nib. Wow, does this nib deliver! I'm a total n00b at varying pressure to vary line size, but here is a shot of one of my first attempts, applying pressure on the downstroke, and no pressure on upstrokes: The ink is Noodler's Luxury Blue. the paper is a Clairefontaine spiral notebook. One of the loops in that picture looks like a skip; the pen didn't skip, I was trying to vary pressure and went so light that I wasn't touching the paper anymore. Here's a writing sample, trying to apply the same effect, with my M600 (F) ... I mainly tried it on the swooshy loops, not on the words themselves: The 400 nib has a readily-noticable springiness to it. apply some pressure, the tines spring apart. with no pressure, I get a very precise, thin line, certainly worthy of the EF marking on the piston-turning knob. the Modern M600 is much wetter but has no spring whatsoever to it. in the loops above, I can see some line width variation but it doesn't feel like the nib is flexing to me, certainly not the same way as the spring of the 400. I can't really explain the line variation I see with the M600. comparing to the flexiness of my Lamy 2000: when I apply pressure to the 2000, I can feel the nib changing shape a bit, but not with a spring like the 400. it feels like the 2000's nib is a bit softer, so it has some give to it. (The Lamy 2000 also has a 14K gold nib) The 400 nib doesn't feel soft, it's almost like it has two settings: tines together, or tines apart, with a spring to go from one to the other. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7371/9685751525_4db30550b5_b.jpgPelikan 400 Tortoise by astrophoenix, on Flickr the feed is ebonite, not plastic, and is impeccable. I've never had it skip or railroad on me, even though at least half the writing I've done so far is while applying pressure to play with the flex. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3724/9685751059_8787631957_b.jpgPelikan 400 Tortoise by astrophoenix, on Flickr When it comes to smoothness, the 400 is fairly smooth. as it goes across the paper, it sings the whole time. at first I thought it was a scratchy noise, but it's not. the only time it gets scratchy is when I apply pressure, then try to switch from downstroke to upstroke; at that point, it feels like the nib is trying to dig into the paper. in reality, I shouldn't apply pressure on the upstroke at all, so the "digging in" might just be my lack of experience. The M600, on the other hand, is super smooth and wet. the 400 is not a dry writer, but the M600 is much wetter. I think the 400 nib has a decently-size sweet spot for such a fine line, but once a word or so I can "snag" it on the paper. also, I have a pocket notebook made by dodo case: http://www.dodocase.com/products/dodocase-notes-for-iphone-5 I think the paper is comparable to moleskine paper. even though the M600 is much wetter, it doesn't feather on the dodocase notebook, whereas the 400 feathers like crazy. (Note, a TWSBI 580 M also feathers on this paper, but not as much as the 400 does) One thing I did notice is that after I wrote a bit with the 400, then switched to the M600, was that anytime I wrote the letter e, the loop to make the e was filled in. My handwriting is naturally small, and getting used to the M600's wetness meant I was forcing myself to write larger. once I started writing with the extra-fine line of the 400, my handwriting snapped back to small, and if I didn't adjust back when writing with the M600, all my letters and loops were getting run together by the bigger line. The nib on the 400 is a lot of fun, when you try to vary the line width by applying pressure, but it's also hard work to use the line variation properly. and when applying low pressure, it's not as smooth as a modern nib. it probably needs a bit of tuning or alignment; I might send it off someday. Conclusion (9/10) I'm really thrilled with this 400 Tortoise. It's going to be the pen I use the most for quite some time. I'm a little concerned about the occasional snags I get with the nib, and I'm definitely going to investigate the piston leak, but since it's over half a century old, and not restored, I'd say this is to be expected. The 400 looks good, feels good in the hand, and is exciting to write with. for everyday writing, I can write softly and the pen lays down a nice thin wet line. and when I want to play with line variation, the 400 instantly responds.
  15. Centopar

    Clip For A 400 - Where To Find?

    I was working in Copenhagen this week, and had a very lucky find at a flea market about an hour before I had to leave for the airport. There was a box of cracked, very dirty and broken pens - most nothing special, and some with such bad damage they weren't salvageable (the grubby and unidentified Montblanc with no cap and the dirty great crack all the way along the barrel up into the section made me very sad). But I found a tortoise shell Pelikan 400 in there, stumped up 350 krone (pretty much exactly £40) and took it home hoping the piston mechanism was still working. Got it home, and it was in surprisingly good nick, especially given it's 60 years old and seems to have been in a box most of that time: it just needed a quick clean to get rid of some dried ink, and it turns out to be a GORGEOUS writer. Glassy-smooth, soft M nib with a little flex, and, of course, it's a lovely weight and balance in the hand; it's a really beautiful, wonderfully useable pen and I'm thrilled I found it. But you may have noticed that I said the box was full of cracked and broken pens. This pen has escaped any damage, but someone, some time, yanked the clip off the cap, leaving most of the ring attached and two ends, where the clip was, sticking out untidily. I can just remove the whole ring and have the thing clipless, but I would prefer to replace the clip if possible. But I'm buggered if I can find any source for a Pelikan clip (outside eBay, where people are asking downright offensive prices for the *lid alone*, presumably where a pen has been destroyed, from much more recent M400s).





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