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Heavy, no name pen, aerometric filler, feather inscribed on the nib. I suspect chinese - this is why I am posting here. Any clues?

This is a eye-dropper c. 1908 gold filled mod. 0314.

Greetings, I've come upon a lovely and brassing-free full cone cap overlay...but alas is missing the nib and feed. I've positively identified the nib I'm hunting for as an Aiken Lambert #1. If I find the nib, I can probably fabricate a feed by turning down one I have ... Let me know if you might have one kicking around in a parts drawer! Cheers, Morgan

I was delighted to purchase these two Mabie Todd swan pens on eBay. Doing so, I understood that they were not whole. At the very least I would get another gold over feed out of this. But I am wondering if there is a way to restore/repair these to working condition? Ok. So let's start with the longer/full sized pen. It came with the forward part of the section which seems to have been broken off of the barrel, the cap, and barrel with most of the ebonite interior within. With the section was the nib, which I was surprised to find was 18karat, a very small feed (which I'm assuming was longer, but broke with the section; though I've not seen a swan feed that looks like this before), and a gold over feed. I was most excited about this pen, because it is what I've been seeking for some time. (As seen in an advertisement around Christmas of 1911 I think?) my only indication as to what model it is was pressed into the section. "Swan" 2 C. Luckily I have an inksight swan which is also a 2 C. The cap uses the accepts those threads without feeling incorrect and is very securely screwed on. And the barrel seems to be the correct length when side by side and capped. The section shapes are also identical, though it should be noted that the nib,feed, and over feed from the partial section that came with this pen does not fit within the section of the inksight swan. As for the smaller pen, it is just a tad shorter than my Swan B2. The threads don't seem to line up well either, and the section of the B2 is too long and the gold cap does not have a chance to engage the threads with it in place. The small pen was purchased as only a cap and barrel, though there is still the ebonite interior of the barrel. (And I'm assuming the inner caps of both the long and short pen are still intact). What I hope is that there is a hope that these two will be useable pens again. (Hopefully with not too much money spent in the process). The first thing that comes to mind is to somehow remove the ebonite within the gold (let's just focus on the long pen for now) and then either have a new insert made or cannibalize a 2 C which has a broken cap or is sold as parts/missing a cap. If the second route (cannibalizing) is taken, to heat the barrel and try to slip the filigree/overlay back onto it (as to how to keep it in place securely once this is accomplished, I have no idea). Any advice/help/opinions/comments would be most appreciated. Thank you for your time

Looking at interesting designs like this which are very economical to produce, and this website Shapeways, what is the future of overlays and other complex aspects of pen design? Right now, overlays, such as from Henry Simpole, are extremely expensive and time-consuming to produce. A 3-D printer can, presumably, pump them out in the thousands like Montblanc precious resin barrels. Right now, I'm thinking about going on Shapeways and seeing if they can make a rough homage of the Montblanc Year of the Golden Dragon Clip in brass, then have it rhodium or gold plated. Cheating, much?

I have made posts about this pen before mainly for repair information. In the research I have done for the pen I have not found a definite date. I find dates of between 1908 and the late 1920s. I never got a reply from Waterman when I emailed them about it. Might anyone have definite documentation on this pen which can be seen in the link below? This is not my pen but a better picture of the pen in question. Mine is apart right now for sac replacement. http://www-personal.umich.edu/~him/Wat14K/Wat14k_3.jpg

Tried deleting this post. I solved my own problem However, this subject may be useful for others. In general is it ok to use heat guns on pens with metal overlays such as silver or gold or any other metal? Would advice can you give for doing so. Especially since the metal can be so close to the area you need to heat.