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Am unsure how I ever acquired this concept, but I originally thought iridium tipping was applied to my antique and vintage gold nibs by fusing a ball or nugget of tipping alloy to the tine ends, followed by shaping, smoothing, polishing to ensure a smooth write in every direction possible. Maybe looking at the big fat tipping balls on the end of my early 1950s broad "51" nibs was responsible... After collecting the Montblanc 149 and staring at magnified 149 tips of almost every type (EF to 3B), I now think the tipping alloy (given it's more expensive than gold) is more like a very thin cover or layer created over prepared tine ends. Please see this image showing that concept. BTW, the first tipping picture was created by a 149 enthusiast here on FPN. Last image shows a Montblanc Kugel tip. Would someone with tipping understanding please explain how tipping was, or is, fused to the tine ends and has it always been applied in the same 'thin-layer' way?

what material brand etc is this old nib?

Hi everyone. This is my first post, an I'd like to please you to help me identify this pen. Thanks!

I'm looking to make my own nib. I'm a jeweler so this is in my wheelhouse. Do any of you nibmasters know where to find the alloy used for the tip? The suppliers that I use don't have the right alloy. Thank you for any help.

I've got two parker arrow nibs, one sheaffer's 33 nib, and one waterman nib without their iridium tips. What would you recommend doing? should i turn them into italics, is there a way to sell them, are they worth having them repaired, are there other options that i couldn't think of?

I bought a nice handmade pen, but I am not a fan of the nib. It is an Iridium Point Germany and on the front says "2". If I can replace it with a Goulet Nib or something else, so much the better! I wish I had a picture...but this is as close as I can get... https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/97043-need-to-buy-a-nib/

Hello, I've recently picked up a Sheaffer Statesman and am in the process of repairing it. I have noted the nib was scratchy so I used a loupe and found one tine ever so slightly lower than the other. After aligning them I still found it scratchy so I very lightly smoothed it out, which, without ink on the nib seemed to do wonders. It didn't catch on the page as it used to. I dipped the nib in some ink and tried it out and, to my disappointment, the nib was no better then it was to begin with (scratchy with normal writing pressure, iffy flow); it only gave good ink flow with a good amount of pressure. So, I did the only thing I could think of: used a loupe paired with my camera to get an even closer look. It looks like the tines are different lengths, with the tipping material not lining up. I'm beginning to think this is the problem but I have no clue if it is. If this is the problem is it possible for me to fix it? I do not believe the nib has been ground to an oblique angle but I could be wrong. Album of photos (you can zoom in a decent amount without loosing too much detail): http://imgur.com/a/KULPY#0

Hello everyone! I have recently gotten into stub nibs with the Pilot 78G in broad as well as some "pseudo-regrinding" of some inexpensive Chinese pens. I love the way the 78G writes, but after constant use for three months, the nib is visibly wearing down. Most of the inexpensive pens that I've looked at come with untipped stubs (Pilot 78G, Lamy Safari/Vista/Al-Star, TWSBI, Monteverde). And the only stubs that I've seen that are tipped are on $150+ gold nibs (for good reason, as gold is even softer). Does anyone here have or can recommend a stub nib pen with some tipping? I'm going to university in the fall and would really enjoy a long-lasting stub nib without breaking the bank (<$80). Thank you all in advance!