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Found 11 results

  1. Disclaimer first: This test does not focus on fading under direct sun or UV exposure, it focuses on normal change in color that will be observed on these inks in what I assume is how most keep their work. Also I will try to keep things as consistent as I can but some variations may occur during the span of testing. I will try to update on any key variations other then weather outside. Storing and approach taken (inputs appreciated) The way the pages will be kept will be as follows : the pages will be kept in closed notebooks and will be used from time to time to see or check f
  2. I have been using up my sample of Baystate Blue, and I cannot get over how much I LOVE the colour. Of course I experienced some of the characteristic bleeding and feathering on copier paper with it, but some diluting seemed to solve the problem. I'm not too concerned about staining, as I have a dedicated pen I have sacrificed to it (Jinhao X750), and I can can just bleach it out of existence if needed. But then I've come to the question of fading. I am confused as to what exactly will happen to it after a few months or years. Sure, UV exposure will make it fade, as will many other blue inks, t
  3. I have recently ventured into the world of vintage pens and have purchased two English Parker 51s for use as EDC/workhorse pens. I also picked up a few bottles of vintage Quink Permanent Blue with Solv-X that were made in England as I figured the ink should most definitely be safe to use in a Parker 51. I'm a blue ink girl at heart for my everyday inks, and tend to avoid black inks. Blue-blacks are hit or miss for me. I used to use Quink Washable blue back in my college days and discovered from unpleasant personal experience that it fades very badly. Sadly, I documented a significant po
  4. So, after much discussion, I thought it was time to actually test my working hypothesis. Now, in fairness, some inks seem to disintegrate even when they are kept in dark boxes, and this little test did not account for those inks. Many FPNers insist that ink bottles be kept in the boxes and away from light. I've argued that ink should be kept away from direct light, but indirect light was not harmful. Most FPNers state that ink will break down when exposed to heat. My experience was somewhat different, I had ink in a caboose without air conditioning or heat for more than a decade and did
  5. I'd like to share my experience with Graf von Faber-Castell Violet Blue (see the attached image). The pen is freshly inked. The first few lines appear with a good saturated colour. Then the colour gradually bleaks, and remains bleak until the pen is empty. Next time the pen is inked the whole story repeats itself. Still the same with different pens on different paper types. The attached image is a collage: the upper part of the image shows what comes out immediately after inking, the lower part is the same text, written a again after a few pages. Needless to say, I am less than happy wit
  6. bozhidarr

    Do I Need Iron Gall

    I will be taking lots of notes in the upcoming 3 years and I need them to be perfectly readable for at least 2 years from the date they are written. The notes will be frequently opened (exposure to sunlight) and I am worried that the ink may fade. My arsenal of inks includes different colours of Diamine and Lamy inks. Do I need Iron Gall ink(have been looking at ESS) to retain readability of my notes, as Noodler's are hard to come by here?
  7. Like watercolour paints, fountain pen inks fade too. But don’t let this put you off. This is what I do to enhance and preserve my fountain pen ink artworks: Paper: Use heavy paper stocks of good quality (Bockingford, Arches, Waterford Saunders). The thicker the better. The paper will absorb the inks deeper into the fibres. Thin papers fade faster. Varnish: When an artwork is finished I spray with a waterbased varnish. Don’t go mad with it! Very gently apply the varnish with the artwork a good 50cms from the can. Allow a small fine spray to settle and let dry. Repeat this process 5-7 times.
  8. Uncial

    Fading Inks

    I thought it might be useful to have a thread that lists writers experiences of fading inks. I usually try and avoid inks that fade a lot, but some fade only a little and while this doesn't bother me too much it might bother others. For ease of reading, perhaps we can devise a grading of fading as follows: Significant: the ink fades very significantly, either in terms of a big change of colour or in shade or has disappearing or unreadable text. Moderate: The text is still readable, but there is a noticeable shift in colour or shade but it is still, more or less, the colour it proclaims itself
  9. Just the other day, I had the idea for an ink that could be written with normally, but then automatically fade away completely within a certain short time frame, like 24 hours or so. Since then, I have searched the internet a bit and determined that it is possible to make, and even found videos on how to make it yourself and novelty items using the concept. Of course, making colored water that can turn clear because of a chemical reaction is just not the same as having an ink that is truly fountain pen viable, which is what I would be using it for. Because of that, it would be so great
  10. I picked up a new (to me) Esterbrook recently: a blue J with a 2668 nib in really great condition: no cracks or noticeable scratches, has a clear, strong imprint, good nib, new sac, etc. The grip section is very discolored though-- it goes from black, to off-black, to olive green. Is there any way to re-blacken the section safely? If not, where's a good source for replacement sections? I've done some cursory searches on Ebay but I'm not sure if I'm looking at the right items. Thanks!
  11. I wrote the samples in the image below on a page of Rhodia 80 g/m2 5 mm grid white paper using a Pelikan M400 14K fine point nib. (The original photo is 3.9 Mb so I had to save it as a TIFF file to get it below the 1.95 Mb limit - no noticeable loss of color or detail.) I cut the page vertically and kept the left half in a notebook, and placed the right half in the sun for approximately 50 hours. The inks used in their order of appearance in the sample writing were: J. Herbin Bleu Pervenche; Pelikan Royal Blue; Levenger Cobalt Blue; J. Herbin Bleu Azur; and J. Herbin Café des Îles. Som

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