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Found 19 results

  1. tde44x

    BCHR & Silicone?

    I have an early 1900's Conklin in BCHR. The cap threads are very coarse and the cap does not always turn the same number of times when closing it. Was wondering if applying some silicone to the threads would be a good idea or a bad idea, and also if it might discolor or otherwise damage the finish. Appreciate your inputs and recommendations. Have a great holiday weekend!
  2. What’s the most expensive pen that you have damaged in your whole life? Share how did it happen and insights about the event.
  3. emshore

    Damaged Lamy Nib

    I recently bought a Lamy 2000 in the mail from an official dealer. The pen came with a extra-fine nib, and I asked them to change it for a fine. The pen always wrote a little scratchy, but I read that that is typical of Lamy 2000s. The scratchiness got worse, however, and I sent it in for repairs. Bob Nurin, the official Lamy repairman, wrote me back that the nib had experienced trauma and that one of the tines was bent. I am super careful with my pens, and it certainly didn't happen with me. Could such a thing have happened when the nib was changed? A new gold nib costs $100, which is not a small amount! Thanks for your feedback!
  4. melissa59

    Damaging Inks

    I've read horror stories about Noodler's Bay State Blue staining demonstrators. And recently, in another thread, someone posted that Noodler's Apache Sunset can be damaging to rubber ink sacs. I'd like to know what other inks might damage a pen.
  5. I was told by a reputable vintage pen shop that posting a cap on a vintage pen, such as long striated pattern Parker Vacumatics, Duofold, etc, makes the cap prone to splitting since it is made of celluloid. They said it is a good practice not to Post A Cap on a vintage pen when using unless there is a nylon other insert that is for that function and it is mounted deeper into the cap. However, a lot of pens don't sit very well in the hand when writing if there's no cap. i have a number of expensive vintage pens that I write with, a lot. What is the solution? Buy a sacrificial cap? *PS: I am not a collector. I own pens for a quality and uique writing experience. So, "writeability" it important to me. Thanks for the help. jim
  6. Ugh. I spent a half a freaking hour typing out a description and "review" here, clearly elucidating my concerns with the product and teeming with the needless and frankly pretentious verbosity such a review necessarily entails, only to have it whisked away by my browser so kindly deciding to close on me without notice. So screw it. Damn it all. If this be the decision of the Internet Gods this day, what is a humble mortal like me to argue? Maybe the opposite of verbosity is more suited. So without further adieu: pouch; problems leather look good feel nice -> sleek design simple & pleasing should have known problem in advance: issue object-fundamental 3 slots, width adequate, length highly problematic unclippable, unable to secure pens much room for pens to slide small pens esp. rattle, jerk, break? pouch not meant for transporting pens regularly? rather for storage? help is padding adequate for to make compensating movement-pens? should I not use for transport small, valuable vintage writingsticks? pics otherplace available many; upload picsmine if request Isn't English wonderful? Anyway, in other words, I'm very worried that if I use this case as I intended to, which is to carry pens around as an everyday travel case, will I end up damaging the pens? Many of mine are very small indeed, and if I just throw this case in a bag and carry them around in it, there would be a lot of potential for them to slide about. Should I have gotten a more traditional pouch? Has anyone used this case successfully? Or in further words: pls respond
  7. Hi All, I want to make myself a custom case/box for carrying around a couple of pens, ink, and a few other small items - not a display box, just something handy for filling up when I leave the house in the morning that will hold my things in a neat way, fit in my bag nicely, and easy to carry around by hand if my day takes me out of the office. I 3d print a bit, so there's the natural temptation to use this as part of my solution - not necessarily 3d printing up a whole box, but buying something that gets me partway to what I want, and then printing parts to get the rest of the way. Naturally I could try making it in wood or something else, but I don't have easy access to woodworking tools where I am at the moment, and I do have easy access to a 3d printer. Something I'm not sure about (and keen to work out first) is if anyone is aware of any issues with doing this? I know 3d printing plastics sometimes outgas a bit after printing for a little while, and fountain pens are made of acrylics and other materials which may or may not like that. So - has anyone tried something like this and noticed any problems? Do fountain pens have issues with being stored in plastic boxes for long durations? Most pen boxes I see are wood, and pen cases are generally leather, but I'm not sure if this is purely aesthetic reasons or if there's more to it. Thanks!
  8. My Lamy Scala has started to show signs of corrosion or something similar on the inside of the body. I discovered it when the barrel clung to the back of the converter. Has anyone experienced this problem? If so, how did you solve it and how? I'm attaching some pictures that show the inside of the pen as well as the converter.
  9. Inferno2Inferno

    Lamy Clip 'cap Rub' Aesthetic Wear

    Hello fellow Lamy fans on FPN! I am a long time Lamy user and a diehard fan. I just have a question for you about one of the ways your Lamys may wear and tear over time (pens with wear listed in brackets). Between my Logos (brushed and stainless steel), Al-Stars, Lxs, and Studios (black) I have noticed that within around 18-24 months of use, the clip rubs a fine line just underneath its point of contact with the cap with a varying degree of aesthetic wear. On the Logos regardless of style it rubs a fine clear line (way more noticeable on the brushed one making that one look almost like the matte one), on the Al-Stars and Lxs, the clip rubs to faint lines just underneath it fading the colour slightly and finally the black studio (and oddly only that one), has the black layer chipped off in that are revealing the clear metal underneath. Just wondering if anyone else has borne witness to this phenomenon on their pens as well and if it is similar or different from what I am experiencing!
  10. ReadyFireAim

    Postal Ink Carnage

    Am I a member of the club now? http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f312/dlg208/IMG_0508_zpsw1s5lehx.jpg
  11. Hey everyone. So I bought a Platinum 3776 SF nib second-hand, and it's been giving me some trouble. I don't know if it was like that out of the box, but when I received it from him, it was very dry. I try using different inks at first but I ended up modifying it a little. This didn't go down very well and the nib became rather scratchy. Luckily I got it repaired by the retailer but still it was not smooth like when I first acquired it. To make it smooth, I bought two sheets of lapping film (the same one as one in Goulet pens) and tuned the nib a little and it's got very scratchy again...I feel quite stupid now. I should have sent it to the retailer without trying to modify it on my own! And I blame nib tuning videos online a little, which make it sound too easy. Anyhow I don't want to throw it away after all these. The problem is that I don't think anyone sells replacement nib for this pen. The pen itself sells for $70 on Amazon, so that's not a too costly option I guess, but I don't want to have to buy one more of the same pen just for the nib. What do you suggest I do?? Thanks for reading!
  12. Hi all - I bought this pen from one of the common European online retailers a few days ago. While trying it out at home, I realised that I preferred a F to a M nib. They agreed to swap it and I sent it back in its original packaging with bubble wrapping. After it arrived back at their office, they claim I damaged the pen as per the pictures attached (scratch & possibly some cracking in the base of the body). The only way I can imagine having caused this damage is via: 1) posting of the cap whilst writing (done maybe twice) 2) storing the pen standing up in a jar along with all my other pens (this has never damaged any of my other pens) Has anyone had similar experiences or can shed any insight? Is it possible I have a defective pen from the manufacturer? Thanks.
  13. Hello, I just received my second Pelikan M1000 in the mail (the first had to go back due to frequent skipping). When I opened the package and thoroughly inspected the pen I found a defect in the cap, it almost looks like a scrape in the gold plating. I purchased the pen through the Amazon marketplace (a Japanese seller). I don't know how this pen could have passed through Pelikan's QC inspection. Do you guys think this was sold knowing it was damaged?
  14. I just got my lamy al star with a fine nib 2 days ago and I love it. But today it rolled off my table and it landed nib first into my wooden floor, stabbed into the wood and just "stood" (for a lack of better word) there. When I pulled it out and looked at it, everything is perfectly fine, except when I write it feels like a wet medium nib... More specifically, ink comes out a lot faster now especially at the turn of letters when I slow down, so I have to write super super fast, So is this nib damaged? Should I get a new nib, or is the feeder damaged too? I pulled off the nib and it looked O.K., but how should I tell?
  15. Do NOT get distracted and leave your beautiful pens with gorgeous celluloid bindes in a water bath for several hours. I am too sad and ashamed to post a picture of my White 400 Torty Pelikan. The binde shrank and seam pulled away near the section. Of course, the pen will still write. Of course, if you don't look at that side of the pen, it's still a beautiful pen. Looking at the seam side of the binde, however... sadness. (pics added below for education of others despite my shame)
  16. Hi everyone. This will be my first post in here. I am looking for help regarding my Aurora Ypsilon Satin (photo is attached in this post). This is my first fountain pen. I've had this since 2007. Not so long ago, uncapped for a second, it rolled off my desk and broke! The cap and nib are okay. The feed is intact. But the nib's section is badly damaged where the threading has disappeared. The threading is left inside the barrel! My initial idea for damage control was to apply Mighty Bond. However, this did not work at all. Please let me know if anybody here knows how to fix something like this? Are there any home remedies you can suggest? If not, would you please recommend the best action for this? Thank you! .
  17. II recently received a Namiki limited edition seahorse pen described as " gently used " no papers, with wooden box. The box is correct, the pen is also. Unfortunately, there is a small scuff near the edge of the cap, not affecting the design, that can ( if one is looking ) be seen by the naked eye. More significantly, it appears the the end of the pen barrel has been damaged and somewhat poorly repaired. I am wondering how much this would effect the value. Also, do these types of issues fall under the " gently used " category? Your advice would be appreciated.
  18. richardthecao

    Rotring 600

    Hi guys, I'm relatively new to fountain pens but yesterday I just received a Rotring 600 fountain pen with gold trim! It writes very well, but there are two problems. First, it looks like the finish is missing. I don't mean brassing but literally it looks as if someone took acid to it or something. Also, it's missing the red Rotring logo by the cap. Is there any way to fix this? Thanks!
  19. Hey guys. I'm new to fountain pens, and I don't know who else has the problem of people ALWAYS wanting to borrow your pens. This one guy even pretty much took it right out of my hands to write down his number (jerk), and ended up leaving ink splotches all over the paper, he pressed down so hard. Ugh. Do you think this damaged the nib (Lamy Safari EF)? It writes kinda funny now; it just feels different than before, and I think the lines are thicker, which negates the EF nib bit. I might even get a new one, which is a shame because I've only had this one for about three months, even though I've used it loads. Do they typically last longer? Also, my friends are always curious about it, because nobody else really uses them, and want to borrow it. How do you all deal with this? Thanks bunches!

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