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  1. OldTravelingShoe

    20220809_163509.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  2. OldTravelingShoe

    20220809_163413.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  3. OldTravelingShoe

    20220809_163354.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  4. OldTravelingShoe

    20220809_163322.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  5. Hello friends! 👋 So very recently I picked up a Waterman Carene medium nib, which is a gorgeous pen and for the most part I am pretty happy with it! However I have observed some strange behaviour from it when using on different paper types. From what I have seen, the Carene seems to have various reports / reviews of skipping or hard starting being an issue. I observed this when writing on some Clairfontaine paper in a notebook, the page started looking quite messy with missing parts of letters or me having to write over existing letters to fill them in. I then tried the exact same pen with the same ink(Edelstein Aventurine) not 5 minutes later on some Tomoe River paper in another notebook and I experienced not a single skip nor any hard start when writing for roughly the same amount of time. Is this something others have experienced and is it an actual problem with the pen or with the paper? Tomoe River and Clairfontaine is pretty good quality paper I am to understand, so I am curioius as to what others think. Does this pen need the touch of a nibmeister and if so, who could people recommend for such a service?
  6. OldTravelingShoe

    20220708_183840.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  7. PensandPencilsDotNet

    Waterman Embleme

    Waterman is launching soon a new collection "Embleme", not to similar to the old Emblem!
  8. OldTravelingShoe

    20220624_122449.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  9. OldTravelingShoe

    20220624_122422.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  10. OldTravelingShoe

    20220624_122354.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  11. OldTravelingShoe

    20220624_122331.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  12. OldTravelingShoe

    20220624_122207.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  13. peroride

    20220618_PenCheck.JPG

    From the album: peroride_pen_pics

  14. donnweinberg

    Waterman's C/F Fountain Pen

    I was fascinated by the recent article, Waterman's Almost Forgotten C/F Cartridge-Fill Fountain Pen, in the most recent issue (Volume 7, Issue 1) of Paul's Fountain Pen Journal. I would direct you to the article's rendition of the history of the pen and its great photos of the pen and advertisements for the pen from the past. I won't repeat its information here. I was stimulated by the article to hunt on Ebay for this pen. There are many examples of this pen offered on Ebay, both from American and International sellers. I now have purchased three of the pens in different colors, have bid on another, and have purchased perhaps a one-of-a-kind display box of 12 different C/F nibs-in-sections for this type of pen. I wanted to share some photos I've taken today. The C/F I already received is this one, which has a gold-plated cap and reddish-brown barrel. It came with all its papers and a box of 8 cartridges, the ink in which mostly has evaporated, plus a "place-keeper" empty cartridge. I substituted a "broad-flex" nib-and-section (from the 12 nibs) for the one that came with the pen originally. I cleaned out two of the formerly filled cartridges, and then filled one with Diamine Monboddos Hat (dark purple) ink. Wow! The pen wrote immediately and was very smooth in its first "outing." We'll see how it performs over time. I would welcome any experiences or comments others have about this pen.
  15. OldTravelingShoe

    Help with identifying this Waterman [C/F] pen

    TL;DR: I acquired a Waterman fountain pen that I believe to be a Cartridge/Filled (C/F). The complete nib looks like it (see Figure 1). The nib unit corresponds to the typical C/F (Figures 2, 3). The other photos are also consistent with a Waterman C/F made in France (e.g., Figure 4). However, I cannot find the type of C/F that a finish without any lines, stripes, etc. Could you please help identify this pen? Especially a specific model identifier or a link to a catalog that includes it would help. Thank you. Details: The problem: I cannot find anywhere a reference to a gold-plated Waterman C/F that has a plain finish, without striations, curves, grain-patterns, fish- or crocodile-scales, etc. I read carefully various entries about the Waterman C/F, among which Dirck De Lint's / Raven March Fountain Pens, FPN's various entries on the CF and especially @donnweinberg's (thanks, everyone who contributed), and the entries I could find in the German and French versions of Lambrou's book. I searched eBay and gopens, both current and past listings. It seems to me the nib unit fits the 1970s Waterman C/F made in France. It seems to me the shape of both pen and cap also fit the 1970s Waterman C/F. The barrel is golden and shiny, and does have "WATERMAN" and "MADE IN FRANCE" engraved on it. However, I could not find an engraving indicating gold-plating, i.e., there is no "750" or "23[K]" engraved, as I've seen some of the Waterman pens from the 1960s and 1970s have. (Sorry for the quality of the photos; I took them last evening with my phone and could not find a way to remove the yellow-ish tint.) Figure 1. Full body of the fountain pen. Figure 2. Zoom on the nib. Figure 3. Nib unit attached to the pen body. Figure 4. The engraving reads "WATERMAN" and "MADE IN FRANCE". Cap and body seems to have plain gold-plating, no lines or other finishing. Many thanks for your help!
  16. OldTravelingShoe

    20220404_170535 Waterman CF + 18K M nib.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe

  17. OldTravelingShoe

    20220404_170521 Waterman CF + 18K M nib.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe

  18. OldTravelingShoe

    20220404_164355 Waterman CF + 18K M nib.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe

  19. OldTravelingShoe

    20220404_170448 Waterman CF + 18K M nib.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe

  20. OldTravelingShoe

    20220404_170502 Waterman CF + 18K M nib.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe

  21. Hi, This is not my first time using a flex fountain pen. I have a pilot 912 FA and a bluedew flex pen but this is my first experience a vintage flex fountain pen. I just received my a vintage waterman fountain pen (a 'new look' that is made between 1940-1950 by JIF-Waterman). According to the seller, this nib can go from EF to 2.0mm. I was experimenting the flex of the pen. And I was too stupid to actually flex it that hard and half of the tip came off from the nib. I still have the tip that is broken off. Is the pen can still be saved or is it only a piece of accessory now? 😭 Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestion.
  22. Does anyone know of a site that lists the difference Waterman Pen models and their years of production? I'm particularly interested in the pens since the 1980s such as the Phileas, Kultur, Laureat, Expert (I,II,III), Carene, Hemisphere, etc. I can't seem to find a good source for when the regular Phileas started and ended production versus when the Kultur started and ended production. Their are also others that are more rare like the Maestro and the Master that sometimes get confused with the Laureat. Thanks Jim Bunch
  23. namrehsnoom

    Waterman Blue Black

    Waterman – Blue Black I bought my very first fountain pen (a Kaweco Sport in black plastic) somewhere in 2012. Initially I just used standard royal blue ink cartridges because I didn't know any better. Sometime after that I learned on YouTube that you could syringe-fill a cartridge. That's when I made a visit to my local stationery shop and bought my very first bottle of ink - this Waterman Blue Black. And that's also the moment I got hooked! This Waterman ink was much more interesting than the standard royal blue cartridges I used until then - had that not been the case, I might have lost interest. Instead, it was the start of a very satisfying hobby. As such, this Waterman Blue Black has a special place in my heart. In this review I take a closer look at Waterman Blue Black. Exactly why this is called a blue black is a mystery to me - what I see is more of a grey-blue leaning slightly to the green. The ink does lay down a darker blue line on the page when writing, but it lightens significantly while drying. I must admit that I like the end result, which is a very eye-pleasing grey-blue. This Waterman ink writes well in all nib sizes, with good contrast to the page and with elegant shading. The ink dries fairly fast in the 5 to 10 second range. This means that while writing you observe in real-time the ink's transformation from a fairly dark blue to a much lighter grey-blue - fascinating! To show you the impact of saturation on the ink's look & feel on paper, I made some scribbles where I really saturated portions of the Tomoe River paper with ink. This gives you a good idea of what the ink is capable of in terms of colour range. As you can see, Waterman Blue Black has a fairly small colour range, without too much contrast between the light and darker parts. This translates to soft and non-obtrusive shading, exactly as I like it. Shading is present in all nib sizes, even the smaller ones. The ink's chromatography shows quite some green in the mix of dyes. From the bottom part you might get the impression that the ink remains firmly attached to the page, but sadly this is but an illusion. In reality the ink is not at all water-resistant, leaving only some smudges on the paper when coming into contact with water. I've tested the ink on a wide variety of paper - from crappy Moleskine to high-end Tomoe River. On every small band of paper I show you: An ink swab, made with a cotton Q-tip 1-2-3 pass swab, to show increasing saturation An ink scribble made with an M-nib Lamy Safari The name of the paper used, written with a B-nib Lamy Safari A small text sample, written with the M-nib Lamy Safari Source of the quote, with a Pelikan M200 with F cursive italic nib Drying times of the ink on the paper (with the M-nib Safari) Waterman Blue Black gets an almost perfect score, with only a nearly invisible amount of feathering on the HP copy paper. It behaved extremely well on the Moleskine paper, with no visible feathering and with only a tiny bit of see-through / bleed-through. Any ink that can pull this off deserves a medal - very well executed! The ink looks great on all papers, with good contrast and fast drying times in the 5-10 second range. I personally prefer this blue on pure white paper - it's less impressive on more yellow paper. Writing with different nib sizes The picture below shows the effect of nib sizes on the writing. Waterman Blue Black can handle all nib sizes without a problem. With the EF nib, you still get a nicely saturated line. Shading is present in all nib sizes. As usual, broader nibs accentuate the ink's shading capabilities, which never gets too harsh but always remains subtle and elegant. Be aware that the M-nib writing sample is too light - I had just cleaned my pen, and there happened to be some water residue in the feed that diluted the ink (and I was too lazy to redo the writing sample, so blame me and not the ink ;-). Related inks To compare Waterman Blue Black with related inks, I use my nine-grid format with the currently reviewed ink at the center. This format shows the name of related inks, a saturation sample, a 1-2-3 swab and a water resistance test - all in a very compact format. I have no other ink in my collection with this exact shade of blue, although iroshizuku tsuki-yo and Callifolio Oconto seem to come close. Inkxperiment – Blue Faery Tree With every review, I try my best to produce an interesting little drawing that shows what the ink is capable of in terms of colour range. These little inkxperiments are simply great fun, and they definitely add to the satisfaction I get from my pen & ink hobby. I really like the fact that inks can be used for all kinds of creative purposes - not just for writing. For this drawing I used a piece of 90 gsm sketching paper. I started off with heavily water diluted ink, and added more and more layers with ever-increasing amounts of Blue Black. For the tree's foliage, I used a piece of dishwashing sponge as a stamp (which worked quite well). I like the end result, which gives a good idea of what you can do with Waterman Blue Black as a drawing ink. Conclusion Waterman Blue Black is the one that introduced me to the world of bottled ink. It is a really attractive blue-grey (definitely not a blue black), that works well in all circumstances. A good all-round writing ink, with an interesting shade of blue. Technical test results on Rhodia N° 16 notepad paper, written with Lamy Safari, M-nib Back-side of writing samples on different paper types
  24. After a long absence, I have returned to using my fountain pen ink again. Breaking out my drawer full of fountain pen ink cartridges, I began using my favorite color, Waterman South Seas Blue. But when I went to purchase more of it, I can't find it. Did they discontinue it (God forbid) or simply rename it? Thanks, inky friends, in advance.
  25. I recently started restoration on a Waterman's 52 in a nice cardinal red, but I have run into a problem I have never faced before. The nib and feed will NOT budge. I was able to remove the section just fine but the nib and feed have not moved a millimeter from my efforts. I have tried heat and grippers to remove by hand and I even used more heat than I am normally comfortable using to remove a nib and feed and it did not budge. I then moved over to my knock out block, I again used an excessive amount of force to knock the nib and feed and it still would not budge. I then tried dripping some mineral oil into the section with a syringe and let it sit for a few hours in an attempt to either lubricate the section or loosen some dried ink, then tried knocking again, still not even budging. I am running out of options here.... Obviously I wouldn't soak the section in plain water but could I try an ammonia solution without damaging the hard rubber? Any info or suggestions help, take care everyone.





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