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  1. I went to an estate sale this morning (one of those "you have to get up at 0 dark 30 and hope you're one of the first 25 people in line" sales) because in one of the photos for the listing I spotted what looked like MIGHT be a box for vintage Pelikan ink. Unfortunately, they only had a picture of one side of the box, which said (under the Pelikan logo and imprint) "AUSZUEH TUSCHE" and then in very small letters "PERLTUSCHE" and then the color indication "SCHWARZ". I ended up buy the bottle, which was mostly full small 1 oz. bottle with a tall skinny neck. The English language side of the box says "Pelikan WATERPROOF DRAWING INK". So presuming that it *might* be India ink but not precisely sure (the other two sides of the box are in, respectively, Spanish, and French). There's a sticker on the Spanish language side of the box which says, "TN" and then next to that in smaller letters, "for ACETATE, TRACING LINEN, PLASTICS." On the bottom of the box there is a number on a circle which says "517" and above the circle says "[illegible] D'ALLEMAG" [illegible] which I expect is the German version of what it says in English below the circle: "MADE IN GERMANY". Clearly not something to stick in (most) fountain pens (there was a ruling pen on the box, but I probably still have mine from college in a drawer someplace, and hated the thing so much I'd be hard pressed to come up with a reason to use it). The reason I say "most" though is that a couple of years ago (at an estate sale of someone in my neighborhood who apparently been an artist and illustrator) I picked up an Osmiroid "India ink" pen, which came with a gadget to pull the nib or feed for more thorough cleaning. There is also a sticker on the bottle itself, which gives instructions (in English) how to prep acetate or plastic as a writing surface (along with how to dilute the ink with "Pelikan Thinner V" and notices to read the [long gone] instructions and to "BEWARE OF FROST" So my questions are these: 1) Is this ink actually India ink? 2) Would this be safe to try in that Osmiroid I've got, or is this a dip pen/ruling pen ONLY ink? No pix, sorry -- it'a after midnight here, and even with a three hour nap this afternoon, I'm not caught up on my sleep (especially after a couple of very stressful days), and I haven't figured out how to upload photos with the new format for the site yet. Thanks in advance. Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth
  2. Rohrer and Klingner sketchINK® Jule These pigmented inks are purported to be both lightfast and waterproof and are designed for sketching. Jule is la lighter version of Super5 Australia. Truly delightful both on Midori and TR 68, the papers I use most often, but equally great on all types of paper. Tomoe River 6 8gr Midori Dry time in my experience is on the longer side. However, it can be mitigated with finer nibs, drier pens or more absorbent paper. I prefer this series with modern flex, or wide nibs where I get more character out of these inks. However, it is imperative to use pens with a good seal, otherwise you need dip your nib under water to keep it running again. • Pen used: Noodler’s Ahab, Lamy Safari broad • Shading: Yes • Ghosting: None • Bleed through: None. • Flow Rate: Good. Austalia is wetter. • Lubrication: Nice • Nib Dry-out: Depending the pen. Needs well sealed pens. • Start-up: If not used it can dry out, in pens with high evaporation. • Saturation: Dusky • Shading Potential: With broad and flex. • Sheen: No • Spread / Feathering / Woolly Line: None. • Nib Creep / “Crud”: None • Staining (pen): I use a pen cleaning solution for the feeds. • Clogging: Nope • Water resistance: Waterproof • Availability: Only in bottle 50 ml bottles.
  3. Simulacrum

    The Blue Blues! Help Please :)

    Hi everyone, so I've read a bunch and researched and have narrowed things down but I'm still having difficulty so I'm hoping for some help. I've narrowed it down to (I think) Sailor Sei Boku, and Noodlers 54th Mass., Bad Blue Heron, Bad Belted Kingfisher. I've a few questions I can't seem to resolve after checking out as much as I can find about these inks. I'm looking for a waterproof, archival ink that is a blue black colour. These all seem to fit the bill, but there seems to be some differences of opinion and differences in test results on the waterproofness of the Noodlers Inks. It seems to be based on the cellulose content of the paper from what I can tell? Is there a way to figure out the cellulose content of a paper before buying it ? I've looked a bit online for the papers I have but haven't been able to figure it out (Strathmore 300 series Bristol ) Canson Sketch (the popular one on amazon - side note - decent paper for fountain pens in my opinion). I have some Tomoe River paper ordered about a month ago -should be here soon. So thoughts on: 1. The colour - I can't seem to find colour samples of them in the same photo - to eliminate different camera settings/ white balances etc.. I have Platinum Pigment Blue and love the colour when it's wet and dark, but not as much the more watery looking finished product. It's ok though but don't love it. I have a Diamine 1864 blue black that looks awesome but it's not waterproof obviously. How do the colours compare to each other? I keep reading different things. Are they sufficiently different to warrant owning all of them ? If you could only have one blue black permanent, waterproof ink which one would it be ? The Noodlers seem to get complaints about feathering more than the Sailor. True ? Also, the Noodlers seem to be different colours bottle to bottle from what I'v read. I don't love that idea. Any other thoughts or opinions on this would be great. Leaning Sei Boku - Thanks.
  4. So I've been playing around with a few different inks in my Pilot Metropolitan with a F nib. I really love the nib for being able to write in tight spaces, but I am travelling to a monsoon region during monsoon season. This means I must have a waterproof ink, as I'll be writing pages and pages and I want to be sure I don't lose them in a downpour. So far I have loved the way the my Pilot behaves with Diamine and J. Herbin inks - nice fine line and amazing flow (I'd say the J.Herbin is the winner in that comparison) BUT when I use a waterproof ink, the line is suddenly double the thickness and the ink creeps all over the place. I've tried Noodler's Heart of Darkness and La Reine Mauve, as well as Rohrer and Klingner's Dokumentus in Hellblau Before I invest in another bottle or a riot of samples, I thought I'd see what everyone over here has to say on the matter. Have you had any success with specific inks that are waterproof while still keeping a fine line? I'd love to get rid of the nib creep too, but the line thickness is more important, as I'll be marking up texts and making notes on my own notes in the margins pretty regularly.
  5. We're very excited to release our first waterproof Blackstone ink. Barrister Black is a well behaved, pure black, nano carbon ink that is 100% waterproof, fade proof and is highly resistant to bleach, alcohol and acid. Barrister Black comes packaged in in 30ml HDPE Nalgene bottles. If any Australian FPN members would like a free sample for review please email me at kevin@justwrite.com.au You can see a review by dcwaites HERE Barrister Black is now available at JustWrite in Australia and will soon be available at Anderson Pens in the US and at Appelboom in Europe. http://justwrite.com.au/image/cache/catalog/products/Blackstone%20Ink/barrister-black-waterproof-fountain-pen-ink-1100x619.jpg
  6. Noodler's amazes me. The color options, the shading, the water resistance (some-but-not-all inks). I have nothing but respect for Mr. Tardif. This thread is one of wonderment, amazement, and homage. One thing that irritates me, however, is that he does not offer a true bulletproof CYMK set (with the obvious exception of Black.) This means that the inks I want to make for myself won't be bulletproof. And bulletproofness is a sticking point for me, or at least water resistance. (I don't write anything worth forging anyway, so for the time being let's throw out bleach/acetone/ammonia/..... resistance.) So for the chemists in the room: how can one make a water-resistant, dye-based ink? The dye retailers I've called don't think it can be done. (They mostly retail to cloth dyers, so their lack of expertise in inks isn't surprising, but cellulose reactivity is cellulose reactivity; all cellulose-reactive dyes I've come across require activation with a base like soda ash or NaOH, and then are unstable in a bottle. ) The closest I've come to an explanation of Tardif's dyes on this forum is this: Unfortunately I saved the quote but not the link in my notes. I believe Chemyst stepped in and countered that yes, they are reactive dyes. We know that water resistant CYMK inks are possible, because De Atramantis makes them too. (Unfortunately they're very expensive here in the US.) So. Who wants to take a stab? What makes Bulletproof Black so bulletproof? How can one make a water resistant ink from a dye base? I'll offer some clues, or at least properties of Noodler's that I've noticed: --He offers (at least partially) water resistant blacks, and purples, and browns. (Though usually the water resistant component is black...) --He DOESN'T offer truly water resistant yellows or oranges. (Operation Overlord*) --He USED TO offer essentially CYMK inks from I think Swishers (Goldfinch for yellow, which he was "permanently sold out of" at one point, Hellbender Red, Brittania's Blue Waves -- see the Noodler's CYMK thread). He no longer does so. Is this lack of interest, or a change in availability, or....? --Noodler's likes to form bubbles in my bottles, indicating he uses A LOT of surfactant. This is also evidenced by the degree to which it nib creeps. So far I've: --Done patent searches related to inks (I still haven't found a single patent related to fountain pen inks; the ONE I was able to find seemed to talk about a "ball point fountain pen ink" which was odd.) There are lots of patents related to inkjets and ball points, but none specifically related to FPs. Most of the inkjet patents are pigment-related, but not all. --Done MSDS searches for major ink makers. I've learned some about what other stuff goes in ink, but the only actual dye I've found was a direct dye used in Pilot's rollerball inks. --Called Pro Chemical and Dye, DharmaTrading, and Keystone; the first 2 have no idea what I'm talking about (and think it's impossible); the last hasn't called me back yet. --Done general dye research, especially at . A list of threads worth reading if this topic encuriouses you too: Fabric Dye as a Basis for Ink: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/269610-fabric-dye-as-a-basis-for-ink/ Make Your Own Ink https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/2183-make-your-own-ink/ The Open Source Ink Project: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/227894-open-source-ink-project/ Physics Articles Related to FPs: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/288121-fountain-pen-ink-behaviour-fountain-pen-physics-journal-articlesreferences/ Mixing Glycerine In Ink: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/257406-mixing-glycerine-in-ink/ Surfactants in Ink for Improved Flow: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/229403-surfactants-in-ink-for-improved-flow/ So.... thoughts?
  7. I have tried looking everywhere for this but seem to find it nowwhere. Can I put waterproof ink into a Lamy Safari fountain pen? Also what is the best type of ink for this pen? Thank you for your time!
  8. I have been using a Hero 100 flighter at work for several reasons, I do a lot of math and calculations, with the dreaded many-tens-of-seconds pauses between writing, and the hooded nib works great for that. I found at walgreens drugstore (in USA) a Timesmart Note Book, which is I think 100 pages, a light grid on one side, and simple college ruled lines on the other side of every sheet. The sheets even have a uniform perforation so you can tear out an important page if the need arises. I was using Waterman Blue Ink, which works great for writing on this paper, but alas it does not fair well with any drops of water. So I did some research, and here's my answer (for the time being). Platinum Pigment Blue Ink. It is 100% waterproof, and dries very fast. The only issue is that it is a pigmented ink so pen maintenance is critical. To support the pen maintenance I got the special tool for the hero 100 that allows you to disassemble the nib and feed, so I can really give it a good cleaning once a month or so. I got the tool from the seller "yespen", it came very quickly. What I found with the Pigment Blue ink is that it is not nearly as saturated as the Waterman Blue. But it still serves my functional needs nicely. As far as the pen goes, with either ink the performance has been flawless. I'll report back here after the first cleaning to let you all know how that goes. (sorry for the small image here, I can't seem to make it take the original version of this next image... )
  9. I was reading the "What Pens Are You Using At Work This Week" thread and noticed that many members do not use waterproof ink at work. This puzzles me, as I make it a point to only use fully waterproof ink at work like Noodler's 54th, Noodler's Black, and Sailor Nano-black. I once spilled a cup of coffee on an assignment written in completely non-waterproof ink (Diamines, Iroshizukus, etc) and vowed never to make the same mistake. I'm curious to know whether you primarily use waterproof ink at work. Please only consider your main ink (even if you rotate, think about the ones you usually rotate between). For instance, I primarily use 54th Mass but keep pens filled with Diamine Oxblood and Sailor Apricot for highlighting purposes. I would mark "Fully Waterproof ink" on the first question and "Yes" on the second. Oh, and please feel free to write a bit about why you use the inks you use at work! (I honestly never thought I would use my social science training in survey design for a fountain pen related post...)
  10. Hi all, I'm a new member and I apologise if I'm posting this in the incorrect forum. Please let me know if there are other forums that would suit my question better... I have some old ink bottles with dried ink inside. I was wondering if it would be possible to dilute or reconstitute them so I could use them. I realize that the quality mightn't be great but I'd just use them for practice and doodles. My dried inks are: 1. Plastic bottle of Higgin's Black Magic Waterproof Ink. 2. Glass bottle, no label, Higgin's Drawing Ink, an encircle W and a 38 embossed on the bottom. 3. Glass Duro Art Drawing Ink, Black India Ink for pen or brush. Thanks, in advance, for any advice or help.

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