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  1. mazg

    Waterman Ideal Info Request

    Hi My dad gave me what I think is a vintage (maybe 60s) Waterman Ideal fountain pen. The nib is gold, marked "Watermans" and has some flex. The cap is marked Waterman, Ideal, Made in England. The sac has cracked and I need a new aerometric converter but it appears to be crimped on (I don't want to force anything until I understand how it can be removed). I have added 5 photos below: -nib, -cap, -pen, -ideal marking -aerometric converter I would be interested in knowing more specifically the date range of the pen, anything interesting about it and whether the converter can be removed (if so, how), and what I need as a replacement unit. It would be great to get this working again. TIA, Marina
  2. Hi everyone, I know there was a Waterman factory in Montreal, Quebec, Canada in the early 20th century but I was never able to find the date of when it closed (the year). I was only able to find out when it started operating and what happened to the building afterwards through Google searches. I think knowing when it closed to be able to guess what models it last produced would be interesting. Thank you all very much in advance!
  3. I have a Waterman Expert II that I have been using for the past 5 years. It is an old pen (if I understand correctly, it's made in the late 90s) that has been lying around the house for a while that I've found 5 years ago and started using to write notes during work. I've noticed for a while now that whenever I don't use the pen for a while (say for example a week or two), then try to use it, it would not write until after a bit of trying, like it was dry. At first I felt this was a normal thing about fountain pens (as it was the only fountain pen I had for a while), but then I realized that I haven't had this problem with other (newer) fountain pens that I've purchased recently. I'm trying to figure out why this happens and what I can do to solve it. I suspected it was the nib. It was bent badly at some point (not sure how, probably an accidental drop, or a malicious colleague using my pen while I wasn't looking) so I had it replaced. However, even with the new nib, it still has the same issue. The cap of the pen also doesn't close as well as it used to. It used to snap. Nowadays, it closes, but there's no "click" or snap. It feels loose, but it does look like it closes properly to me. I tried to give it to a shop to repair it, but they said that they couldn't find a replacement part for the cap as it's an old pen. I'm thinking this is likely the reason, but I'm not sure. Perhaps it's the way I'm cleaning it? I only rinse it with water every once in a while, no ammonia. I use the same ink all the time (Noodler's Dark Matter). Could the cap be the reason? If it is, and since I can't replace the cap, should I just "retire" the pen, and use another one as my daily? When I don't use the pen, I keep the pen stored upright (nib pointing upwards) as is recommended by others in this forum.
  4. Hello i came across this waterman fountain pen and I am totally a noob at this here are some pictures i took of it please help me identify it, such as: worth, model, year, condition, authenticity i don't have the box for it so you can factor that in too. Thanks very much Ethan
  5. I was looking for a fountain pen that may work with this nib. I am new to fountain pens and purchased the nib to try with a noodler's creaper. I fell in love with the nib but it did not stay in the creaper. The nib started to become loose after a while of working with it. I like how the nib drew and would like a pen that would function well with it. Would anyone know of pens that would not break the bank but hold the #2? Oh well just trying to find some leads. Thanks in advance.
  6. Simulacrum

    Help With Some New Pens

    Hi, I recently purchased the following (my first vintage pens) 1. A Waterman- 'Skywriter', 1930's Made in Canada, green marbled celluloid, lever filler. 14k nib marked 'R' (inside a diamond) Canada 2. A Waterman Ideal No.32 Lever Filler, 1930's, Made in Canada. 14k 'Waterman's Ideal England 2' Nib Apart from anything else anyone wants to pipe in about - as I know nothing about these pens or vintage pens in general - what I'm specifically wondering is: 1.would there be something metal in these pens other than the nibs (which are gold) that would be affected by Iron Gall inks, or should they be very safe to use Iron gall inks with ? I have read that IG inks can create other issues like particulate coming out of solution, and I've also read that they are perfectly fine except for their interactions with metal-so I don't know what to make of that and am probably stearing clear of them for the time being as a result of that. Is there anything specific about these pens that I should be aware of that is unusual and warrants some unusual or specific care or something that I would be unaware of - other than what would apply to most any 'vintage' pen. My thought is I'll clean them out more often than I do my 'regular pens' with soapy water ? Inks - The only non pigment inks I own are Diamine 1864 Blue Black - any reason not to use this in these pens ? (I'm not planning on putting the pigment inks in these-yet anyways) Also I'm hoping for any advice or possible warnings with the following ink considerations. Ideally they would be permanent, eternal, neutral ph, fade resistant etc. , but I already know that I won't be able to check all those boxes so I'm expecting to have to flex somewhere - water resistant is ok, but a neutral-ish ph and fade resistant are my goals, as I feel I have control over keeping the paper safe from water (mostly). So here goes : Black--love black - my main ink. (I usually use Plat.Carbon Black - it's awesome, if you didn't know lol) J. Herbin Perle Noire, or Pelikan 4001 Brown - Cacao du bresil, or Lie de The - (leaning towards Cacao - grey brown from what I can tell) Green - J. Herbin's Vert Empire , or Diamine Evergreen. Red Brown/Black - (something kind of dried, darkened blood-looking) Diamine Oxblood, or Diamine Rustic Brown, (Noodlers Red Black, or Black Swan/English Rose would be nice but I'm reluctant to put those in these pens) Thanks.
  7. Joseph B

    Ripple Micarta

    Two of my favorite pens are the Waterman 94 Ripple and TWSBI Micarta. Unfortunately, both are out of production. So, for fun, I decided to make some micarta pens that "cross" these pen's properties. Shown are my first attempts at Blue Green, Orange, Rose and Olive Micarta TWSBI sized pens. Shown with them are the inspiration pens.
  8. I found I have lying around the following few items: A Waterman 52 barrel with properly functioning lever box; a "Warranted 14c 1st class" gold nib, fitted to a Waterman 52 section; a slip cap rather like that I have seen on Onoto and which happens to fit neatly over the 52 barrel over the threads. By adding a sac, I can make what I expect would be a sound, writing pen. Would you? I don't need the pen. For that matter, I do not need the parts. Such a pen would not excite me but PIF has two problems, one being that I am in Oz (postage) and the other being that the parts may be worth more alone. However, selling involves time and effort for relatively low value items. Maybe I should make it rather than leaving the parts lying about uselessly. I am interested in your views, or what you have done.
  9. what is the most efficient ways to test all the fountain pen inks available and to make a like for like comparison? For instance i have tested Waterman, Herbin, Viscontini and Diamine but the shade of colour vary a great deal i like Visconti Bordeuax as a red but on other days i may like Diamine Oxblood but i like the wetness of a waterman red ink. I aim to reduce to a set number of of inks, so a maximum of two for each of the colours Red, Green, Blue, Black.for daily use. 1 unique colour such as an orange/brown/purple for journal writing. let me know your ideas thanks
  10. Lensman

    Waterman Expert Cap

    Hi. I am looking to replace a damaged cap on my Waterman Expert. I have looked in all of the likely places without success. Can anyone help please? Many thanks.
  11. Hi All, I've been a member of this forum for a while, although a not very active one though (bought a few pens here and there from users of the forum). Sadly, I've managed to break the clip of my beloved Waterman Hemisphere Fountain Pen (Shimmery Blue). Can anyone point me in the direction on where I can get a replacement for it and if I'll need any special tools to replace it? I live in Portugal but I have no problems ordering the part from anywhere in the globe. Thank you for all your help.
  12. I have a vintage Waterman fountain pen (approx. 28 years old). I do have pics but too large to attach here. I have broken the feeder and nib and was hoping someone on this site may have one of each that I can purchase. I will send pics in hope that it is recognized. It is a black lacquer finish with gold bands on the mid of the pen, cap and pocket clip. Let me know if someone on the network can help. Thank you Brad
  13. I purchased this pen off of eBay and when I say the original listing I believed the photos to be edited until I had the pen in my hands and saw it clearly. Then I thought there was something wrong with my eyes. This appears to be a perfectly ordinary Waterman RED #7 in jet black celluloid with nickel trim, except the nib has a silver tone to it. I've never seen a Waterman nib with anything other than a gold tone. I showed it to some very high profile collector friends of mine, and they have never seen a Waterman nib like this either. One had some theories about it being a depression era pen that may have been made of a different metal than gold, which made some sense, but it's strange to me that I've never come across one before. Has anyone else ever come across a pen like this? Is this some kind of standard model? Maybe someone plated it after the fact? I'm tempted to start polishing it to see if there's a base metal underneath, but not before I find some kind of information. The only thing I'm pretty sure of is that it's a nonreactive metal. I live in Florida and all reactive metals and finishes show some kind of patina relatively quickly. After removing the nib I couldn't find any kind of precious metal hallmarks, although I do have other keyhole nibs missing hallmarks so that may not indicate much. I've included a comparison "BROWN" keyhole nib in one of the pictures so that it's easier to see the color difference. It's extremely weird to look at and my eyes keep telling me the photo has something wrong with it. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1514412797__unnamed_1.jpg https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1514412787__unnamed_2.jpg https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1514412776__unnamed_3.jpg https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1514412758__unnamed_4.jpg https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1514412737__unnamed_5.jpg https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1514412723__unnamed_6.jpg
  14. jrkotrla

    Waterman Nib?

    Hi, I bought a (I think Waterman) pen at an antique store for my mother. The gold nib was falling apart and was already half gone, so I replaced it with... well, the first nib that came to hand that I thought would fit. obviously I was mistaken. It burps like nobodys business. You can't get through a line without splortches of ink all over the place. Anyone know of a vendor that sells nibs for these? or a nib unit? I do still have the feed.
  15. There is so little information about this pen out there. But it's THE fountain pen that got me into the hobby. You're welcome. . I saw this thing in a Staples, I think. Maybe an Office max or Circuit City. I remember it was Phoenix, Arizona, 1999. Something about it enchanted me. It was my favorite shade of dark blue. The gorgeous detailed inscription on the nib, the uniqueness of the entire concept of writing with a device I had never used. Per the rules of modern psychiatry, the 10, not yet 11 year old me was still in Piaget's period of childhood ego-centrism. What I liked, surely my mother would like. I begged my stepfather to buy it for my mom's birthday. I was either very persuasive, or very, very annoying, because he capitulated. Be it love for her child or legitimate interest (I presume the latter) she loved it. She only ever used cartridges of blue, but it was always in her purse. About 15 years later, when I became interested in using my father's wood shop, and made her a #5 nibbed fountain pen out of Hawaiian Koa (she spent most of the 1970's as a NAUI dive instructor in the Pacific, also as an electrical engineer, designing the power grids for island regions such as Palau and Kwajelin, and had a deep personal connection with Hawaii) at which point the old Waterman was laid to rest. About six months ago, my childhood and high school fascination for fountain pens was reinvigorated. I asked mom if she still had the old Waterman. She did, and she mailed it to me. It was gunked solid by the old long international cartridge in it, but a couple passes through my ultrasonic cleaner filled with hot water cleared the old girl right up. It has a strange little ring in the barrel that made most of my S.I. converters not fit, but the trusty old Jinhao sliding converter fit it perfectly. I filled it up with mont blanc lavender purple and tried it out. Wow. This old girl is a force to be reckoned with. I don't like the 1-10 rating systems. My opinions are just that. Opinions. Completely anecdotal, much like male enhancement products. My word is just as objective (well, maybe a little more, since I'm not being paid), as that of Ron Jeremy's. Steel nib be damned. It's got no breather hole and is as hard as a nail, but it's a true western F (leaning towards EF) with the most perfect, everyday paper medium flow. Shading, minor sheen, and what I consider the perfect amount of feedback a pen could have. Not glassy smooth, you feel the texture of the paper without even the slightest hint of scratchiness. Reverse writing is a hair scratchy and lays down a wet, consistent EF line. I couldn't be happier, this nib is amazing. Think Faber Castell Loom levels of perfection. Feed is plastic, but well designed, aesthetically interesting, and pulls clean out for easy cleaning. The nib is proprietary. About a #6 in size, it has fitment fins similar to the steel pilot custom heritage 74/91, so you can't swap it for anything. The body is full of amazing little details. The cap has two bands of gold. This one has seen HEAVY wear for the past 15 years and no brassing at all, despite a ton of micro scratches. The clip is sprung, and is by far the best clip of any pen in my entire collection, bar none. Perfect tension, perfect grip, slides in and out of a breast pocket no problem since the barrel has a very mild taper and a sharp angled bottom. The clip has a sharp taper to the rounded finneal that just looks and works amazing. I'm reminded of the detail and finish of the current visconti laser etched clips. Far more beautiful than Lamy or Faber Castell's sprung clips, and possibly more usable due to the rounded, smooth design with perfect sections for sliding over clothing. The grip section seems smallish, but the faceted secondary grip is just as comfortable and somehow manages to create a secondary grip section without the taper that eventually forces your hands to slide down to the knurling. I normally hold a pen close to the nib, but this one, I like the parallel knurling so much, I post the cap and hold it there. The incredible fact is that the grip goes from 9.7mm to 12mm without any real feeling that you're holding the pen in a way that it wasn't meant to be held. This is truly a fascinating grip design that I'm surprised wasn't copied. Cap posts deeply, securely, and does not change the balance of the pen whatsoever Cap has a perfect snap action, not too tight, not too loose. The acrylic is not anything special in terms of depth, but reminds me of deep, dark, roiling ocean waves. At the bottom of the barrel is a gold inlaid brass piece that mirrors the wonderful inscription of the nib. Tiny details that add up to a pen of exquisite quality, especially considering the price. Posted it's shorter than a pilot metropolitan, but big enough for even the largest hands without any upset in balance. Unposted, it's about as long as an unposted lamy al-star I am not sure what it retailed for, but this pen would be an outrageous value today at $40-60, blowing everything else out of the water without a question If you can find one used, in good shape for under $50, I highly recommend this pen. it's easily disassembled, takes standard international cartridges and converters, is very pretty, and fit and finish are nothing short of unbelievable for a pen under $200. The nib is a work of art, and is a true daily writer in every sense of the word. When I asked my mom to send me this pen, I wondered if I was going to look at it through the rose tinted goggles of nostalgia. But when held against what I consider to be the best steel nibbed pen currently produced, the Faber Castell Loom, the Waterman Phileas just edges it out in every singly meaningful way. Truly a wonderful, insane bargain if you can find one. I'll likely pick up a few more used ones as I find them on Ebay for a good price, and give them away as gifts. They're just so much better than any other entry level steel nib pen I've seen. Even better than most gold nibbed nails out there (including the platinum 3776, the fit and finish is NOTHING in comparison to the Phileas.)
  16. sundragon

    How To Tighten Up A Loose Section

    Hello, I have a couple of older fountain pens Mabie Todd, Wahl, and Waterman that have loose sections. One is BCHR, the others are celluloid. The section with the nib and sac are loose and you can easily turn them in the body or worse they can slide out with a little pressure and or come off with the cap being unscrewed and get stuck in the cap. I've read that in the olden days they used shellac but I don't want to make servicing the pen difficult. Especially on 70-90 year old pens that are now more brittle and delicate. Would a drop of shellac vs shellacking the whole section that fits in the body firm it up? What do you recommend?
  17. Got this new rollerball Waterman at a Garage Sale today. Could someone tell me what kind it is. Thank you.
  18. Hi, everybody. I own a 1904 Waterman pump fill pen and a 1920's Dunn pen. Both are pump filling pens and seem to fill in the same way, by pumping them several times. I wander if someone knows what is in the essentially different in their filling mechanism. Thanks, Victor.
  19. I have seen these pens around a lot here in the Netherlands, but it has no markings or model name. Looks like 90's or early 20's to me? Any thoughts?
  20. Dear FPN people, I have a Waterman Charleston purchased in 2009. Mine is a "M" as marked on the feed. The small nib is stock - marked PARIS 18K-750" It flows/writes well. I found a Spanish-language video that demonstrated the pen. At the beginning (time mark 1:50) however, when the cap comes off we see a wide stub with the Waterman logo. At 3:50 approx the reviewer shows the somewhat flexible and free-flowing capabilities of this nib. No indication that there is a different feed. Please, if you have time, take a look at this video and tell me if you know how I can find the nib pictured. I love broad italics and stubs. My handwriting suits these nibs well; I just write letters, cards, and research notes. No calligraphy business or craft - just fun everyday stuff. Seen at 1:50 (not while writing) and then writing at 3:52 in a video (Spanish-language) posted here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnxEmLVcnM8 Be aware that on my computer I had to turn the volume WAY up to hear the commentator. Wish I understood Spanish! Thanks, in advance, for any comments. Jonathan7007
  21. One of my first pens is a Waterman Lauréat, and while I managed not to destroy its nib it did gush ink, so that every time I tried to use it there were big drops of ink in the cap; it was a shame as the nib is quite smooth. After years of trying I finally got a donor pen and after trying all section / feed / nib / converter / cap permutations it's finally working as it should, also thanks to Pilot Iroshizuku Fuyu Gaki; there is some ink on the nib but no more gushing. I always intended to use Vert Empire, Lie de Thé or Mandarin but they didn't like this pen. If someone told me the ink could make this much difference I wouldn't have believed it, but hey, it does, and I like the combination of stodgy pen / wild ink. Anyone else have a similar situation? We might need a database of pens and inks that get along, although except for Rouge Hematite (a.k.a. SuperGunker, on a Lamy Vista) and Platinum Cool (not very cool, that it starts when it wants, now with Mandarin) my other 19 pens / inks haven't been this troublesome .
  22. rocketman3345

    Waterman Expert 2 Replacement Section?

    The other day I dropped my Waterman Expert II and the section snapped right where the threads start. Anybody know if/where I can get a replacement section? I looked on the waterman website and they don't appear to be selling them. Thanks, Brett
  23. Waltz For Zizi

    Help Identifying Pen

    I found a pen for sale, the cap looks similar the the Edson cap, but don't know what model it is. It has an 18k nib. The photos are a little bad.
  24. I found this waterman pen for sale, but have no ideea what model it is. What is it worth?
  25. I have a wood grain Waterman 52 1/2V, with a #2 heart nib; A black Waterman 52V, A Canadian 351-V waterman FP, and 2 Mabie Todd Swan antique FP's. I bought all of them off eBay, and paid no more than $25 for any of them. The nibs are in great shape, but they seem to be missing their ink sac. They are the "self filling" kind where you push the lever down once it's in ink, and they are supposed to pop up once the sac is full. The only way I can use them has been by dipping them into ink, and writing with whatever ink collects in the nib. I'm in Indiana, and am searching for someplace to have them repaired, but even the Jewelers here in Kokomo say they quit repairing "those things years ago." If the repairs are expensive, could someone please direct me to some place where I could buy the sac and attempt the process myself? These were all eBay finds, and I'm still happy with them but do not want to put 200 dollars in to each pen to have someone else repair them. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance, Josh





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