Jump to content
Classifieds is broken, please do not submit any new ads ×

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'waterman'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • FPN Community
    • FPN News
    • Introductions
    • Clubs, Meetings and Events
    • Pay It Forward, Loaner Programs & Group Buys
  • The Market Place
    • The Mall
    • Market Watch
    • Historical Sales Forums
  • Writing Instruments
    • Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
    • Fountain Pen Reviews
    • Of Nibs & Tines
    • It Writes, But It Is Not A Fountain Pen ....
    • Pen History
    • Repair Q&A
  • Brand Focus
    • Cross
    • Esterbrook
    • Lamy
    • Mabie Todd Research/Special Interest Forum/Group
    • Montblanc
    • Parker
    • Pelikan
    • Sheaffer
    • TWSBI
    • Wahl-Eversharp
    • Waterman
  • Regional Focus
    • China, Korea and Others (Far East, Asia)
    • Great Britain & Ireland - Europe
    • India & Subcontinent (Asia)
    • Italy - Europe
    • Japan - Asia
    • USA - North America
    • Other Brands - Europe
  • Inks, Inc.
    • Inky Thoughts
    • Ink Reviews
    • Ink Comparisons
    • Co-Razy-Views
    • Th-INKing Outside the Bottle
    • Inky Recipes
  • Paper, and Pen Accessories
    • Paper and Pen Paraphernalia
    • Paper & Pen Paraphernalia Reviews and Articles
  • Creative Expressions
    • Pen Turning and Making
    • Pictures & Pen Photography
    • The Write Stuff
    • Handwriting & Handwriting Improvement
    • Calligraphy Discussions
    • Pointed Pen Calligraphy
    • Broad (or Edged) Pen Calligraphy

Blogs

  • FPN Board Talk
  • Incoherent Ramblings from Murphy Towers
  • The Blogg of Me
  • FPN Admin Column
  • Rules, Guidelines, FAQs, Guides
  • Musings on matters pen
  • Marketing & Sales
  • Iguana Sell Pens Blog
  • Newton Pens' Blog
  • Peyton Street Pens Blog
  • holygrail's Blog
  • A Gift For Words
  • I Don't Have a Name; So This Will Do
  • Karas Kustoms' Blog
  • Debbie Ohi's Inky Journal
  • Sus Minervam docet
  • Crud!
  • Clut and Clutter

Calendars

  • Pen Events Calendar

Product Groups

  • FPN Pens
  • FPN Inks
  • FPN Donations
  • Premium/Trading/Retailer Accounts

Categories

  • Fonts
  • Tools & Software
  • Rules for Notepads & Paper

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

  1. donnweinberg

    Waterman's C/F Fountain Pen

    I was fascinated by the recent article, Waterman's Almost Forgotten C/F Cartridge-Fill Fountain Pen, in the most recent issue (Volume 7, Issue 1) of Paul's Fountain Pen Journal. I would direct you to the article's rendition of the history of the pen and its great photos of the pen and advertisements for the pen from the past. I won't repeat its information here. I was stimulated by the article to hunt on Ebay for this pen. There are many examples of this pen offered on Ebay, both from American and International sellers. I now have purchased three of the pens in different colors, have bid on another, and have purchased perhaps a one-of-a-kind display box of 12 different C/F nibs-in-sections for this type of pen. I wanted to share some photos I've taken today. The C/F I already received is this one, which has a gold-plated cap and reddish-brown barrel. It came with all its papers and a box of 8 cartridges, the ink in which mostly has evaporated, plus a "place-keeper" empty cartridge. I substituted a "broad-flex" nib-and-section (from the 12 nibs) for the one that came with the pen originally. I cleaned out two of the formerly filled cartridges, and then filled one with Diamine Monboddos Hat (dark purple) ink. Wow! The pen wrote immediately and was very smooth in its first "outing." We'll see how it performs over time. I would welcome any experiences or comments others have about this pen.
  2. namrehsnoom

    Waterman Blue Black

    Waterman – Blue Black I bought my very first fountain pen (a Kaweco Sport in black plastic) somewhere in 2012. Initially I just used standard royal blue ink cartridges because I didn't know any better. Sometime after that I learned on YouTube that you could syringe-fill a cartridge. That's when I made a visit to my local stationery shop and bought my very first bottle of ink - this Waterman Blue Black. And that's also the moment I got hooked! This Waterman ink was much more interesting than the standard royal blue cartridges I used until then - had that not been the case, I might have lost interest. Instead, it was the start of a very satisfying hobby. As such, this Waterman Blue Black has a special place in my heart. In this review I take a closer look at Waterman Blue Black. Exactly why this is called a blue black is a mystery to me - what I see is more of a grey-blue leaning slightly to the green. The ink does lay down a darker blue line on the page when writing, but it lightens significantly while drying. I must admit that I like the end result, which is a very eye-pleasing grey-blue. This Waterman ink writes well in all nib sizes, with good contrast to the page and with elegant shading. The ink dries fairly fast in the 5 to 10 second range. This means that while writing you observe in real-time the ink's transformation from a fairly dark blue to a much lighter grey-blue - fascinating! To show you the impact of saturation on the ink's look & feel on paper, I made some scribbles where I really saturated portions of the Tomoe River paper with ink. This gives you a good idea of what the ink is capable of in terms of colour range. As you can see, Waterman Blue Black has a fairly small colour range, without too much contrast between the light and darker parts. This translates to soft and non-obtrusive shading, exactly as I like it. Shading is present in all nib sizes, even the smaller ones. The ink's chromatography shows quite some green in the mix of dyes. From the bottom part you might get the impression that the ink remains firmly attached to the page, but sadly this is but an illusion. In reality the ink is not at all water-resistant, leaving only some smudges on the paper when coming into contact with water. I've tested the ink on a wide variety of paper - from crappy Moleskine to high-end Tomoe River. On every small band of paper I show you: An ink swab, made with a cotton Q-tip 1-2-3 pass swab, to show increasing saturation An ink scribble made with an M-nib Lamy Safari The name of the paper used, written with a B-nib Lamy Safari A small text sample, written with the M-nib Lamy Safari Source of the quote, with a Pelikan M200 with F cursive italic nib Drying times of the ink on the paper (with the M-nib Safari) Waterman Blue Black gets an almost perfect score, with only a nearly invisible amount of feathering on the HP copy paper. It behaved extremely well on the Moleskine paper, with no visible feathering and with only a tiny bit of see-through / bleed-through. Any ink that can pull this off deserves a medal - very well executed! The ink looks great on all papers, with good contrast and fast drying times in the 5-10 second range. I personally prefer this blue on pure white paper - it's less impressive on more yellow paper. Writing with different nib sizes The picture below shows the effect of nib sizes on the writing. Waterman Blue Black can handle all nib sizes without a problem. With the EF nib, you still get a nicely saturated line. Shading is present in all nib sizes. As usual, broader nibs accentuate the ink's shading capabilities, which never gets too harsh but always remains subtle and elegant. Be aware that the M-nib writing sample is too light - I had just cleaned my pen, and there happened to be some water residue in the feed that diluted the ink (and I was too lazy to redo the writing sample, so blame me and not the ink ;-). Related inks To compare Waterman Blue Black with related inks, I use my nine-grid format with the currently reviewed ink at the center. This format shows the name of related inks, a saturation sample, a 1-2-3 swab and a water resistance test - all in a very compact format. I have no other ink in my collection with this exact shade of blue, although iroshizuku tsuki-yo and Callifolio Oconto seem to come close. Inkxperiment – Blue Faery Tree With every review, I try my best to produce an interesting little drawing that shows what the ink is capable of in terms of colour range. These little inkxperiments are simply great fun, and they definitely add to the satisfaction I get from my pen & ink hobby. I really like the fact that inks can be used for all kinds of creative purposes - not just for writing. For this drawing I used a piece of 90 gsm sketching paper. I started off with heavily water diluted ink, and added more and more layers with ever-increasing amounts of Blue Black. For the tree's foliage, I used a piece of dishwashing sponge as a stamp (which worked quite well). I like the end result, which gives a good idea of what you can do with Waterman Blue Black as a drawing ink. Conclusion Waterman Blue Black is the one that introduced me to the world of bottled ink. It is a really attractive blue-grey (definitely not a blue black), that works well in all circumstances. A good all-round writing ink, with an interesting shade of blue. Technical test results on Rhodia N° 16 notepad paper, written with Lamy Safari, M-nib Back-side of writing samples on different paper types
  3. After a long absence, I have returned to using my fountain pen ink again. Breaking out my drawer full of fountain pen ink cartridges, I began using my favorite color, Waterman South Seas Blue. But when I went to purchase more of it, I can't find it. Did they discontinue it (God forbid) or simply rename it? Thanks, inky friends, in advance.
  4. I recently started restoration on a Waterman's 52 in a nice cardinal red, but I have run into a problem I have never faced before. The nib and feed will NOT budge. I was able to remove the section just fine but the nib and feed have not moved a millimeter from my efforts. I have tried heat and grippers to remove by hand and I even used more heat than I am normally comfortable using to remove a nib and feed and it did not budge. I then moved over to my knock out block, I again used an excessive amount of force to knock the nib and feed and it still would not budge. I then tried dripping some mineral oil into the section with a syringe and let it sit for a few hours in an attempt to either lubricate the section or loosen some dried ink, then tried knocking again, still not even budging. I am running out of options here.... Obviously I wouldn't soak the section in plain water but could I try an ammonia solution without damaging the hard rubber? Any info or suggestions help, take care everyone.
  5. Mysterious Mose

    Next fountain pen

    I'm looking forward to the third U.S. stimulus check and want to use part of it to buy my next fountain pen. Please see my signature for the pens that I have. I'm thinking of the following (all under $400.): new Pelikan 400; vintage Pelikan 400NN from Rick Propas; vintage Pelikan 400N from Rick Propas; vintage Pelikan 400 from Rick Propas; new Waterman Carene; or new Santini. Any suggestions? Thoughts? I like all the pens that I have, but my favorites are the Pelikan M850 and the Waterman Phileas. Note: I am cross-posting this inquiry to FPGeeks.
  6. Hello, I like any advice or hint to change the colour band for another one. There is any difference between the ones that got just the colour band and the ones with the white bands too as happen with the Patrician crown caps tops some of them got to screw them and some others just pushing by friction. Thanks in advance for your answers.
  7. fingertrouble

    Waterman Pen ID

    Just bought this 1940's? vintage Waterman, trying to identify it as it doesn't have a model number. It is double ring and dark green and the nib is a fairly generic one, semi flex (no telltale W for instance or Ideal). It's dark green/olive. So far my research has narrowed it down to: 502/503/513 - I thought the closest is 502, but they don't seem to have the metal lever box and clip is slightly different, 513 is very similar - some 513s have a metal lever box and some don't - but the clip is different. W2/W3/W5 - W2 doesn't have a metal lever box as far as I can see from pics online, neither seems to W3. W5 has a metal lever box, but tends to be fancier and have different rings. Ruled out: It is a lot like a Commando especially the clip, perfect match - but it doesn't have the lucite 'end plug' and that didn't come in green according to Richard Binder? http://www.richardspens.com/ref/profiles/commando.htm I guess it is possible that this is a Commando top on another pen? The colours all match perfectly though, why I suspect it hasn't faded/darkened because it's uniform. Dauntless/Starlet/Stalwart - the end of the body is rounded, not flattish like these. I have found a few others sold who sold exactly the same pen, they were unsure what they were as well - listing it as a Commando (I think I have ruled that out or unmarked 502- http://greenfineused.com/gorgeous_waterman_pen_dark_green_full_flex_14k_fine_nib_england.html and https://tommyspens.blogspot.com/2012/12/waterman-commando-in-green-made-in.html So Waterman detectives - what is it?
  8. Rosebud

    Hello from Torquay

    After reading through this site quite extensively I have decided to finally drop in and say Hi. I have been enjoying writing with and reading about fountain pens after a long break of 15-20 years. Over the past few months I have been writing with a Lamy Safari f, a Lamy Al-star m, a Sailor Pro-Gear m, a Waterman Perspective m and a Pilot Metropolitan f. Of the lot my favourite has been the Sailor Pro Gear. My favourite ink is Montblanc Hadrian and Perle Noire. I use Kin-Mokusei to highlight. My favourite paper is Rhodia dot-grid. Though I also enjoy Rifle Paper Co.
  9. donmcnel

    How Wet Are Waterman Inks

    As a newbie I'm not really knowledgeable about the general characteristics of various ink brands. I've heard that Irosihzuku inks are generally thought to be "wet" inks and I would agree with this based on my limited experience. How do you think Waterman inks compare with Iroshizuku inks in wetness? Are there other brands that are generally thought of as being wet or dry? I'd appreciate hearing your experience. Thanks very much.
  10. MadAboutMBs

    My first Waterman

    Hello fellow FP enthusiats. I've mostly been a MB enthusiast. Having used a few Sheaffers and Parkers from my mother's school days, my first real acquisiton was a MB No. 34. Since then, I've always been an MB fan. However, I recently acquired a Waterman's 542 full Flex + Mechanical Pencil set (pic attached) from Teri @ peytonstreetpens. Thanks to him, I'm now the proud owner of a gorgeous SS Filagree pen set. This was my first experience using a Waterman, and that too with a full flex nib! Mama Mia! It was literally love at first write. i must say, im leaning alot towards Waterman as well now I'm new to the forum here and would to learn more about the 542, its years of production, its heritage and experiences of other pen owners. It would be very kind of the patrons if they could share their knowledge with me. I'm attaching pictures of my set here. Many thanks in advance.
  11. I have often thought that ink reviews should be a community effort. Everyone sees something different in an ink. So, I thought I would throw this idea out there. Community Ink Reviews. Someone would start with a particular ink. That person would start with what they like/dislike about the ink with a writing or artistic sample. Then others who have that ink would add their thoughts, observations, or anything they feel adds to the review of the ink. This can be something simple like “this ink is too dry” and shows a writing sample. The next person may add that they like the way the color shades and include their writing sample. Another may say they like the chromatography of the ink and show a sample, another may show an ink illustration. Others might add comparisons with other inks. Your comments can be long or short. It doesn’t matter if it seems like you are repeating what someone else may have said. Your comments are important and it lends credibility to the character of the ink. This is an ink review that everyone should feel comfortable contributing towards. When you add your post, please post a photo (yes, please use whatever camera you have and enjoy), also state your pen, nib and paper used. Why would this be a positive thing for all FPN members? The person reading the Community Review would have the benefit of getting a broader perspective of what an ink might be like. Some really enjoy extra fine nibs, while others really prefer broader nibs. By doing a Community Ink Review, everyone can contribute with whatever pen or paper they choose. Also, this isn’t intended to replace ink reviews done by an individual. It is just meant to be an addition. That is why it is posted in “Inky Thoughts”. So, are you up for this? Would you like to give it a try with me? Let’s start with an ink that many of us have: Waterman Serenity Blue Oops! The last sentence should read "It has a nice sheen too!"
  12. I have this Waterman fountain pen. Here it is capped. Here is is uncapped. Here it is in a close up of the section/nib/feed. I probably need to ask about how to fix this one in the Repair forum, but I'd like to know what it's called. The nib is attached to the feed in an unconventional way. Sorry the photographs are crummy and done with such different lighting. I am not a photographer. Thanks for any help.
  13. Inkyways

    The Pen That Wrote The History.

    This is a new family photo of my Waterman pens.
  14. Hello everybody! =) I write you all this message because I would need a bit of help - I got two Waterman fountain pen (I guess it is waterman as it is written on the nib), which I think are pretty old because I got them from my grandfather who used to buy many various fountain pens in second-hand. I absolutely LOVE them as they are EXACTLY the kind of touch/feedback I was looking for two years ago. Even thiner and even more flexible than my usual Platinum Century 3776 SF that I always use (special renewed thanks to the members who helped me then advising me to buy this pen by the way ) ; they are just GREAT. The problem I have is that I have no idea what they exactly are - I love fountain pens but know very few about them. So could one of you please help me identify them and tell me how I must take care of these new babies in order not to do any damage? (I will attach below, for both the pens, some photos and three links towards youtube unreferenced videos) The only clues I have are the following ones: - The inscription on the nib: "WATERMAN'S IDEAL | REG. U.S. | PAT. OFF" (Identical on both pens) - They probably works with a plunger (the little round thing on the side?) on which is engraved "Ideal" (have no idea about how a plunger pen works!) (identical on both pens) - They are probably old for the reason I wrote above, also because they have no clip on the cap (my father told me this occured only with old pens) - They are extremely pretty!! No relation with some other plastic fountain pens I could find in my grandfather's collection! - They both have flexible nibs. If you have any indication or information to give me, I would be extremely grateful!! I know that vintage flexible fountain pens are usually the best, I heard about the Waterman's ones, so when I saw these two pens I immediately tried their nibs (and loved them), though, I have no clue about their identity, nor their age. I also would like to ask how I could clean them entirely - I've been testing them just diving the nib in my usual Monteverde inks and removing gently the rest of ink with a cloth after use (I didn't mix the inks by the way, always removed the rest of the previous ink before testing another). I love them so much I would be horrified to harm them. I passed the nib of the smaller one under cold water to remove the ink I had used the first time, and could guess there was a rest of some blue ink inside (that doesn't appear when I'm writing though). I know I must not mix some inks with each others, in order not to clog the pen; is there any way I can clean these pens? Generally, can I use them with my Monteverde inks in the future? Is there anything special I should absolutely know about fountain pen care in this case? Could someone also explain me how a plunger fountain pen usually works...? The long pen also seems to have feed issues if I compare it to the small one, which feed "follows" me wathever I do (my favourite from the two, although the nibs seem identical). Below links and pictures. Thanks to all!! =) Photos on google drive (otherwise the display is not adapted): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12CtU2lKJjWmmb_CksVZynFBcyM5Te0UP?usp=sharing Links toward youtube: => => => (Sorry for the poor quality of the videos and the fact it is twisted, with no experience neither professionality and only one hand available I couldn't do anything better ^^ x) ) Inks used: Monteverde, Sapphire for the small one and Rose Noir for the long one. Thanks again! =)
  15. I have two Waterman E’Talon pens, which I have really enjoyed, plus an extra section and point. Problem is they all leak around the half ring clutch that secures the cap. I was able to dissemble one of the sections and believe the problem is the o-ring that fits above that ring (it’s red/orange). I’m thinking of using silicone to try to create a seal there. But that’s not the problem that is driving me crazy. I can’t dissemble either of the two other sections. I’ve tried hot water and physical pulling, but it won’t com apart. From the section I have apart, I know they do not screw, but push on. I am assuming there’s some kind of adhesive involved. To clarify, I can pull out the nib and feed, but the plastic piece that hold then won’t come out from the black plastic grip section. That, in turn, will not pull out of the metal piece that the barrel screws on to and that secures the offending clutch half ring. Any ideas about loosening things up?
  16. caklingsporn

    Repairs For Waterman Pen

    I'm new to the forum and request some help, please. I have a Waterman Carene pen that leaks ink. I have changed the cartridge and it still leaks. When I contacted Waterman they wanted me to send the pen in to France, an idea that i didn't like. Surely there are reputable pen repair companies here in the U. S.? Does anyone have a recommendation, please? Thanks Chuck Klingsporn
  17. I have way too many pens and inks, and I am trying to simplify. So I am offering 4 bundles of bottled inks. Unless indicated, bottles are 90% full or more. (some have had only a fill or two out of them). All bottles have been purchased within the last 12 months - most of them during COVID era. All of these inks are terrific and will make you happy. The rules are simple: First come, first served. State your selection in a thread reply, so everyone knows what's been taken.Send me a PM so we can work out shipping. Shipped free to CONUS. Outside of CONUS, you'll just pay the USPS shipping rates. Noodler's Lot (3 Bottles): American Eel Black (~ 70% full)Red Rattler American EelAir Corps Blue Black Waterman Lot (3 bottles) Mysterious BlueAudacious RedSerenity Blue (~40-50% full) Parker Quink Lot (3 Bottles - all ~ 70% full) BlackWashable BlueBlue Black Mixed Lot (3 Bottles) Noodler's BurgundyPrivate Reserve Sherwood Green Fast DryAurora Blue
  18. IThinkIHaveAProblem

    Waterman's Patrician Purple

    I like old ink (and pens) This is not a secret Why? Because when vintage ink was made, it had to WORK. Period. It wasn't boutique or eccentric. Fountain pens were PENS, not bling (ok, some were bling, but they still had to function as pens, without fail!)So badly behaving ink was an impediment to writing!People were FAR less likely to tolerate misbehaviour, be it bleeding, feathering, clogging of pens, etc. Think of it this way:What do you do when you are FORCED by circumstance to use a ballpoint, and then that ballpoint doesn't work within the first 5 seconds or so?That's right, you throw it in the freaking garbage, swear about how bad ballpoints are, and grab another one. (and maybe even another one after that...) Back in the day, ink was likely the same way. If you loaded your pen with ink, and more than once that ink let you down?...There's a pretty good chance you threw it out and bought a different ink! As such, Vintage ink was made when it HAD to work. And that brings us to today's ink Waterman's Patrician Purple (note the 's in the name) My bottle is NOS I purchased on eBay in Jun/Jul 2020 and was manufactured in Montreal. Bottle, box and Aqua/Pastel Blue Sentinel Snorkel used for testing Colour Swatch Rhodia Webnotebook (paper is slightly off white in real life) Chromatography done twice to verify resultsText is transcribed below for searchability and due to terrible handwriting 21 Jul 20Waterman's Patrician Purple 2oz bottle fromeBay Jun/Jul 2020. Bottleis NOS from the 1950's (i think)This ink is pale/washed out. I'm notsure how much of that is due to age.The flow is average/dryand the ink is wellbehaved as expected fromWaterman's. After itdries this ink seemsto grow on you withits understated nature.[Dry Times]Would buy again?Maybe/NA Waterman's Patrician PurpleEco 1.1 MMAqua Sentinel Shading: Low/MediumSaturation: LowFeathering: NilSpread: NilBleed: NilCleaning: P.I.T.A [water tests] Notes: Yes, it's that water resistant! It's alsoa PITA to clean. Onlya couple of hrs in theEco and it had started to stain/leave a residue. Clairefontaine paper (very white paper) Waterman Waterman'sTender Purple Patrician PurpleSheaffer SheafferAqua/Pastel Blue Aqua/Pastel BlueSnorkel Sentinel Snorkel Sentinel The quick brown The quick brownfox jumps over fox jumps overthe lazy dog the lazy dog1234567890 1234567890 Twsbi Eco 1.1 mm The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog 1234567890 The chromatography should have been a clue as to how much of a PITA this ink was going to be to clean out.(think Noodler's Rome Burning) Purple inks of course have a reputation for staining, and this one certainly lives up to that reputation.That said, I guess that was much less of a concern when the overwhelming majority of pens were NOT demonstrators. If you can't see the inside of the pen... how would you even know it was getting stained!? So that's it. That's Waterman's Patrician Purple It's hard to find, can be expensive, the colour is washed out and will somehow still stain your pen! But hey, at least it's well behaved on paper!
  19. Mysterious Mose

    Why Does Waterman Expert Ii Skip?

    I bought this Waterman Expert new in December, 2019. It occasionally skips. When writing on Rhodia paper (No. 18, 80g/m^2), it writes rough. It writes smoother on Tamoe River 52g/m^2 but still skips. I wouldn't say the nib is wet. Does this mean it's dry? The ink I'm currently using is Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue. I filled it July 12, 11 days ago.. Last night, it completely stopped writing. I extracted a little ink with the converter and then it restarted. Could this be the nib? The feed? The cartridge? The pen? I've never in my life gone to a nib meister but wonder if that might help. If so, any recommendations? I'm located in New York City.
  20. Hi! So I have some gradual experience with fountain pens from the last time I wrote on this website. My favorite fountain pens that I have found to be a very smooth writing experience for me are the Pilot pens. I especially love the Prera and I hope that Pilot makes more of the solid-color body ones cause they are my favorite. Anyway, those pens are the ones that really work with me. I tend to use a medium nib on the Pilot fountain pens. Now I know a Japanese medium=western fine. However, I find that Western fine can be too scratchy and that Western mediums can be too broad. I want to find a fountain pen that has the same line consistency as the Pilot mediums found in the Preras, Cavaliers, and the Metropolitans that I use. Even my one Kaweco Sport that is medium is an ideal line for me. So I've been looking at Watermans because I just got a rollerball from them and absolutely loved it, but I wanted to try out their fountain pens since I heard that they are of good quality. However, I'm driving myself mad about the nib and which one I should get. Maybe I'm just overthinking things, but I don't want to get a medium with it being broad and me smearing it because I drag my pen across the paper. However, on the other hand, I don't want to get a fine in case it's too scratchy and the line isn't what I want. Please help me!!! I want to be part of the Waterman gang Also, was wondering if the Waterman, specifically the Havana Brown is fast drying or if Waterman inks are fast-drying inks in general. The Pilot inks are wonderful for me, for it never smears even if I brush my hand over it. However, Kawecos aren't really fast-drying inks which I am very surprised about. I thought they were, so I'm wondering if Waterman is fast-drying. I hope it is in my favor! thanks again for the help! looking forward to your responses!
  21. I like vintage ink I like the idea that ink that was made in the 30s, 40s, 50s and 60s HAD TO WORK It had to be relatively trouble free and it had to perform as expected. This was after all, a time when fountain pens were simply PENS. They were expected to write and write well. On that note, I recently bought a bottle of Waterman's Aztec Brown. The bottle is almost NOS. Using it, I found that I really like it. This is a problem as the stuff is getting expensive. So, I decided to get a bottle of the current Absolute Brown and compare them to one another. Here are the results: Waterman's Aztec Brown 2oz bottle, vintage (1940s-50s)Bought on eBay Jun 2020for $10 This brown leansonly a little red-ishInk has that vintage Waterman's smell (Phenol?)Flows great, no surprisethere. No bleed or feathering except on the worst quality paper Goodshading + lots of vari-ation depending on thepen used. (Dry Times) Wouldbuy again?Yes Shading: Good/MediumSaturation: Good/MediumFeathering: Some/Low-ishSpread: Low-NilBleed: Low-NilCleaning: Very Easy Waterman Absolute Brown50ml bottle The PaperyJun 2020. This is Waterman'scurrent brown formu-lation. It used to be called Havana BrownAs a Waterman ink itflows well and behaveswell. Like Aztec Brown there is a lot of differencefrom pen to pen. It isslightly redder + darker thanAztec Brown. That may be due to Aztec's age. (Dry Times) Would Buy Again?Yes! Shading: Good/MediumSaturation: Good/MediumFeathering: NilSpread: NilBleed: NilCleaning: Easy Notes: Good butSlightly redder replacementfor Aztec Brown
  22. meganpendragon

    Help Identifying Waterman Received As Gift?

    Hello! I was given this pen by someone who hadn't used it in many years and didn't recall the model. The barrel is slim, with a dark brown marbled color. The nib is stamped with "Waterman 18K 750". Based on photos I think it's an Executive, but I don't know much about Watermans so I could definitely be wrong. Hoping someone here will be able to help. Thanks for looking!
  23. phaus

    The Myth Of The Artist Pen

    Greetings, It has been a while since I have posted. While I have many pens the focus of my collection is vintage Waterman pens. In particular, I focus on pens with flexible nibs. A few years ago I picked up a Waterman Artist Pen (Model 751) from the Fountain Pen Hospital. I can't remember if it was advertised as "New Old Stock" but it appeared to be brand new. Recently I was looking for more information about it. Having not found much at all, I decide to post my observations from the limited information that seems to be available. If anyone else has any experience with these pens, please feel free to share, as I am curious to find out whether or not my observations are accurate. As you probably know, much like the Pink nib, and the Black nib, the Artist nib has reached mythical status. Over the years there have been posts describing the writing qualities of the Artist nib. They are alleged to be the ultimate "wet noodle" with amazingly soft flexibility and the most delicate hairlines. Furthermore, one of the trends I have noticed is that many of the Waterman nibs that are called "artist" nibs, have unusually long tines. Generally, the long-tined flexible pens do indeed have incredible writing capabilities. While long-tined, ultra-flexible nibs exist, I am not so certain that these had anything to do with being examples of Waterman "artist" nibs. When it comes to the actual pen marketed by Waterman as having an Artist nib, I can only find a few photographs and mentions on the Internet. However, based on the little information I have found, the three examples of legitimate "Artist Pens" seem to have very similarly shaped nibs, and none of them have long tines. If you check the links to two other posts, the nibs seem to have an almost identical shape to mine. However, whereas my pen is not very flexible at all, other examples of "official" artist pens with nearly identical nib shapes are in fact very flexible. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/98222-watermans-late-hard-rubber-safety-with-artist-nib-box-and-eyedropper/ https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/220347-watermans-artist-pen-882/ As you can see in the photos above and in the examples I have linked ,the nibs seem to have a moderate length, but as it gets close to the tip the taper gets much sharper to form a needlepoint. This aligns well with the pen's documentation that claims it can write lines from "filament width to 1/32nd of an inch" or from hairlines to about .8mm. I initially purchased the pen hoping that it would live up to the legendary status of the "artist" nib. My example is semi-flexible. It feels moderately soft, but the tines only open up very slightly, from XXXF (maybe thinner) to approximately an F. However, the nib is about as smooth as one could hope for such a fine point and it has become one of my favorite pens. I do have a couple of other nibs that are not on Waterman Artist pens that have unusually long tines and have all of the wonderful properties that are typically associated with what is popularly known as an "artist " nib. However, I think perhaps due to a lack of information the times have caused two separate, distinct things to be conflated. Another observation I have from pens from Waterman's Safety / 52 lever filler era is that, generally speaking, nibs that are fine or smaller with round breather holes seem more likely to have excellent flexible writing properties. I doubt its from the breather hole alone. Perhaps the round breather hole on a fine nib indicates that it was manufactured as an artist nib. Finally, if a vintage Waterman nib has unusually long tines, there is a really good chance that it is going to be an amazingly flexible pen. I don't see pens with what I consider abnormally long tines often, but from my experience its the most reliable indicator of flexibility other than the pens that are labelled as such. So in parting I leave some pictures, a writing sample, and a question. It has been a while since I have used any of my fountain pens, so my handwriting with the Artist pen is very shaky. The lines would probably be even thinner if I was able to use it confidently, but right now I'm a bit rusty. Notice that my writing with both EF nibs is much smoother. Does anyone know what era the Waterman 751 was manufactured in? I believe they were from the 1930s but I'm not certain. As you can see from the picture, the clip is rather modern looking compared to a Waterman 52. The paperwork that came with the pen doesn't have a date:
  24. BinaryRun

    Ebay - Waterman Purchase Advice

    Good morning, I'm currently looking for my very first vintage flex pen and my second vintage pen in total. My only vintage pen that I currently own is a Parker Vacumatic with a low to medium flex nib. I love the pen and I've recently been on the hunt for a 'true' flex nib. Although I certainly don't have the budget to go for anything crazy, (like a pink nib) there are way too many beautiful options out there to not get excited and a little bit lost. (All my modern pens have a broad nib) I've been eyeing the waterman's in particular, mainly because of the beautiful nibs with the long tines that some of them have, as well as the gorgeous materials. One of the pens that I've been looking at is this one that I found on ebay. There are some scratches on the material, particularly around the personalization and bite marks at the end, which makes it impossible to read the model. Would this be a good purchase and/or are there any vintage Waterman sellers that you'd recommend? I like the material of this listing and the capabilities of the nib, but I'm not crazy about the condition. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Watermans-Ideal-FLEX-fountain-pen-14k-XF-BBB-GORGEOUS-green-gold-RARE/164207465050





×
×
  • Create New...