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  1. PensandPencilsDotNet

    Waterman Embleme

    Waterman is launching soon a new collection "Embleme", not to similar to the old Emblem!
  2. donnweinberg

    Waterman's C/F Fountain Pen

    I was fascinated by the recent article, Waterman's Almost Forgotten C/F Cartridge-Fill Fountain Pen, in the most recent issue (Volume 7, Issue 1) of Paul's Fountain Pen Journal. I would direct you to the article's rendition of the history of the pen and its great photos of the pen and advertisements for the pen from the past. I won't repeat its information here. I was stimulated by the article to hunt on Ebay for this pen. There are many examples of this pen offered on Ebay, both from American and International sellers. I now have purchased three of the pens in different colors, have bid on another, and have purchased perhaps a one-of-a-kind display box of 12 different C/F nibs-in-sections for this type of pen. I wanted to share some photos I've taken today. The C/F I already received is this one, which has a gold-plated cap and reddish-brown barrel. It came with all its papers and a box of 8 cartridges, the ink in which mostly has evaporated, plus a "place-keeper" empty cartridge. I substituted a "broad-flex" nib-and-section (from the 12 nibs) for the one that came with the pen originally. I cleaned out two of the formerly filled cartridges, and then filled one with Diamine Monboddos Hat (dark purple) ink. Wow! The pen wrote immediately and was very smooth in its first "outing." We'll see how it performs over time. I would welcome any experiences or comments others have about this pen.
  3. OldTravelingShoe

    Help with identifying this Waterman [C/F] pen

    TL;DR: I acquired a Waterman fountain pen that I believe to be a Cartridge/Filled (C/F). The complete nib looks like it (see Figure 1). The nib unit corresponds to the typical C/F (Figures 2, 3). The other photos are also consistent with a Waterman C/F made in France (e.g., Figure 4). However, I cannot find the type of C/F that a finish without any lines, stripes, etc. Could you please help identify this pen? Especially a specific model identifier or a link to a catalog that includes it would help. Thank you. Details: The problem: I cannot find anywhere a reference to a gold-plated Waterman C/F that has a plain finish, without striations, curves, grain-patterns, fish- or crocodile-scales, etc. I read carefully various entries about the Waterman C/F, among which Dirck De Lint's / Raven March Fountain Pens, FPN's various entries on the CF and especially @donnweinberg's (thanks, everyone who contributed), and the entries I could find in the German and French versions of Lambrou's book. I searched eBay and gopens, both current and past listings. It seems to me the nib unit fits the 1970s Waterman C/F made in France. It seems to me the shape of both pen and cap also fit the 1970s Waterman C/F. The barrel is golden and shiny, and does have "WATERMAN" and "MADE IN FRANCE" engraved on it. However, I could not find an engraving indicating gold-plating, i.e., there is no "750" or "23[K]" engraved, as I've seen some of the Waterman pens from the 1960s and 1970s have. (Sorry for the quality of the photos; I took them last evening with my phone and could not find a way to remove the yellow-ish tint.) Figure 1. Full body of the fountain pen. Figure 2. Zoom on the nib. Figure 3. Nib unit attached to the pen body. Figure 4. The engraving reads "WATERMAN" and "MADE IN FRANCE". Cap and body seems to have plain gold-plating, no lines or other finishing. Many thanks for your help!
  4. OldTravelingShoe

    20220404_170535 Waterman CF + 18K M nib.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe

  5. OldTravelingShoe

    20220404_170521 Waterman CF + 18K M nib.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe

  6. OldTravelingShoe

    20220404_164355 Waterman CF + 18K M nib.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe

  7. OldTravelingShoe

    20220404_170448 Waterman CF + 18K M nib.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe

  8. OldTravelingShoe

    20220404_170502 Waterman CF + 18K M nib.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe

  9. Hi, This is not my first time using a flex fountain pen. I have a pilot 912 FA and a bluedew flex pen but this is my first experience a vintage flex fountain pen. I just received my a vintage waterman fountain pen (a 'new look' that is made between 1940-1950 by JIF-Waterman). According to the seller, this nib can go from EF to 2.0mm. I was experimenting the flex of the pen. And I was too stupid to actually flex it that hard and half of the tip came off from the nib. I still have the tip that is broken off. Is the pen can still be saved or is it only a piece of accessory now? 😭 Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestion.
  10. Does anyone know of a site that lists the difference Waterman Pen models and their years of production? I'm particularly interested in the pens since the 1980s such as the Phileas, Kultur, Laureat, Expert (I,II,III), Carene, Hemisphere, etc. I can't seem to find a good source for when the regular Phileas started and ended production versus when the Kultur started and ended production. Their are also others that are more rare like the Maestro and the Master that sometimes get confused with the Laureat. Thanks Jim Bunch
  11. namrehsnoom

    Waterman Blue Black

    Waterman – Blue Black I bought my very first fountain pen (a Kaweco Sport in black plastic) somewhere in 2012. Initially I just used standard royal blue ink cartridges because I didn't know any better. Sometime after that I learned on YouTube that you could syringe-fill a cartridge. That's when I made a visit to my local stationery shop and bought my very first bottle of ink - this Waterman Blue Black. And that's also the moment I got hooked! This Waterman ink was much more interesting than the standard royal blue cartridges I used until then - had that not been the case, I might have lost interest. Instead, it was the start of a very satisfying hobby. As such, this Waterman Blue Black has a special place in my heart. In this review I take a closer look at Waterman Blue Black. Exactly why this is called a blue black is a mystery to me - what I see is more of a grey-blue leaning slightly to the green. The ink does lay down a darker blue line on the page when writing, but it lightens significantly while drying. I must admit that I like the end result, which is a very eye-pleasing grey-blue. This Waterman ink writes well in all nib sizes, with good contrast to the page and with elegant shading. The ink dries fairly fast in the 5 to 10 second range. This means that while writing you observe in real-time the ink's transformation from a fairly dark blue to a much lighter grey-blue - fascinating! To show you the impact of saturation on the ink's look & feel on paper, I made some scribbles where I really saturated portions of the Tomoe River paper with ink. This gives you a good idea of what the ink is capable of in terms of colour range. As you can see, Waterman Blue Black has a fairly small colour range, without too much contrast between the light and darker parts. This translates to soft and non-obtrusive shading, exactly as I like it. Shading is present in all nib sizes, even the smaller ones. The ink's chromatography shows quite some green in the mix of dyes. From the bottom part you might get the impression that the ink remains firmly attached to the page, but sadly this is but an illusion. In reality the ink is not at all water-resistant, leaving only some smudges on the paper when coming into contact with water. I've tested the ink on a wide variety of paper - from crappy Moleskine to high-end Tomoe River. On every small band of paper I show you: An ink swab, made with a cotton Q-tip 1-2-3 pass swab, to show increasing saturation An ink scribble made with an M-nib Lamy Safari The name of the paper used, written with a B-nib Lamy Safari A small text sample, written with the M-nib Lamy Safari Source of the quote, with a Pelikan M200 with F cursive italic nib Drying times of the ink on the paper (with the M-nib Safari) Waterman Blue Black gets an almost perfect score, with only a nearly invisible amount of feathering on the HP copy paper. It behaved extremely well on the Moleskine paper, with no visible feathering and with only a tiny bit of see-through / bleed-through. Any ink that can pull this off deserves a medal - very well executed! The ink looks great on all papers, with good contrast and fast drying times in the 5-10 second range. I personally prefer this blue on pure white paper - it's less impressive on more yellow paper. Writing with different nib sizes The picture below shows the effect of nib sizes on the writing. Waterman Blue Black can handle all nib sizes without a problem. With the EF nib, you still get a nicely saturated line. Shading is present in all nib sizes. As usual, broader nibs accentuate the ink's shading capabilities, which never gets too harsh but always remains subtle and elegant. Be aware that the M-nib writing sample is too light - I had just cleaned my pen, and there happened to be some water residue in the feed that diluted the ink (and I was too lazy to redo the writing sample, so blame me and not the ink ;-). Related inks To compare Waterman Blue Black with related inks, I use my nine-grid format with the currently reviewed ink at the center. This format shows the name of related inks, a saturation sample, a 1-2-3 swab and a water resistance test - all in a very compact format. I have no other ink in my collection with this exact shade of blue, although iroshizuku tsuki-yo and Callifolio Oconto seem to come close. Inkxperiment – Blue Faery Tree With every review, I try my best to produce an interesting little drawing that shows what the ink is capable of in terms of colour range. These little inkxperiments are simply great fun, and they definitely add to the satisfaction I get from my pen & ink hobby. I really like the fact that inks can be used for all kinds of creative purposes - not just for writing. For this drawing I used a piece of 90 gsm sketching paper. I started off with heavily water diluted ink, and added more and more layers with ever-increasing amounts of Blue Black. For the tree's foliage, I used a piece of dishwashing sponge as a stamp (which worked quite well). I like the end result, which gives a good idea of what you can do with Waterman Blue Black as a drawing ink. Conclusion Waterman Blue Black is the one that introduced me to the world of bottled ink. It is a really attractive blue-grey (definitely not a blue black), that works well in all circumstances. A good all-round writing ink, with an interesting shade of blue. Technical test results on Rhodia N° 16 notepad paper, written with Lamy Safari, M-nib Back-side of writing samples on different paper types
  12. After a long absence, I have returned to using my fountain pen ink again. Breaking out my drawer full of fountain pen ink cartridges, I began using my favorite color, Waterman South Seas Blue. But when I went to purchase more of it, I can't find it. Did they discontinue it (God forbid) or simply rename it? Thanks, inky friends, in advance.
  13. I recently started restoration on a Waterman's 52 in a nice cardinal red, but I have run into a problem I have never faced before. The nib and feed will NOT budge. I was able to remove the section just fine but the nib and feed have not moved a millimeter from my efforts. I have tried heat and grippers to remove by hand and I even used more heat than I am normally comfortable using to remove a nib and feed and it did not budge. I then moved over to my knock out block, I again used an excessive amount of force to knock the nib and feed and it still would not budge. I then tried dripping some mineral oil into the section with a syringe and let it sit for a few hours in an attempt to either lubricate the section or loosen some dried ink, then tried knocking again, still not even budging. I am running out of options here.... Obviously I wouldn't soak the section in plain water but could I try an ammonia solution without damaging the hard rubber? Any info or suggestions help, take care everyone.
  14. Mysterious Mose

    Next fountain pen

    I'm looking forward to the third U.S. stimulus check and want to use part of it to buy my next fountain pen. Please see my signature for the pens that I have. I'm thinking of the following (all under $400.): new Pelikan 400; vintage Pelikan 400NN from Rick Propas; vintage Pelikan 400N from Rick Propas; vintage Pelikan 400 from Rick Propas; new Waterman Carene; or new Santini. Any suggestions? Thoughts? I like all the pens that I have, but my favorites are the Pelikan M850 and the Waterman Phileas. Note: I am cross-posting this inquiry to FPGeeks.
  15. Hello, I like any advice or hint to change the colour band for another one. There is any difference between the ones that got just the colour band and the ones with the white bands too as happen with the Patrician crown caps tops some of them got to screw them and some others just pushing by friction. Thanks in advance for your answers.
  16. fingertrouble

    Waterman Pen ID

    Just bought this 1940's? vintage Waterman, trying to identify it as it doesn't have a model number. It is double ring and dark green and the nib is a fairly generic one, semi flex (no telltale W for instance or Ideal). It's dark green/olive. So far my research has narrowed it down to: 502/503/513 - I thought the closest is 502, but they don't seem to have the metal lever box and clip is slightly different, 513 is very similar - some 513s have a metal lever box and some don't - but the clip is different. W2/W3/W5 - W2 doesn't have a metal lever box as far as I can see from pics online, neither seems to W3. W5 has a metal lever box, but tends to be fancier and have different rings. Ruled out: It is a lot like a Commando especially the clip, perfect match - but it doesn't have the lucite 'end plug' and that didn't come in green according to Richard Binder? http://www.richardspens.com/ref/profiles/commando.htm I guess it is possible that this is a Commando top on another pen? The colours all match perfectly though, why I suspect it hasn't faded/darkened because it's uniform. Dauntless/Starlet/Stalwart - the end of the body is rounded, not flattish like these. I have found a few others sold who sold exactly the same pen, they were unsure what they were as well - listing it as a Commando (I think I have ruled that out or unmarked 502- http://greenfineused.com/gorgeous_waterman_pen_dark_green_full_flex_14k_fine_nib_england.html and https://tommyspens.blogspot.com/2012/12/waterman-commando-in-green-made-in.html So Waterman detectives - what is it?
  17. Rosebud

    Hello from Torquay

    After reading through this site quite extensively I have decided to finally drop in and say Hi. I have been enjoying writing with and reading about fountain pens after a long break of 15-20 years. Over the past few months I have been writing with a Lamy Safari f, a Lamy Al-star m, a Sailor Pro-Gear m, a Waterman Perspective m and a Pilot Metropolitan f. Of the lot my favourite has been the Sailor Pro Gear. My favourite ink is Montblanc Hadrian and Perle Noire. I use Kin-Mokusei to highlight. My favourite paper is Rhodia dot-grid. Though I also enjoy Rifle Paper Co.
  18. donmcnel

    How Wet Are Waterman Inks

    As a newbie I'm not really knowledgeable about the general characteristics of various ink brands. I've heard that Irosihzuku inks are generally thought to be "wet" inks and I would agree with this based on my limited experience. How do you think Waterman inks compare with Iroshizuku inks in wetness? Are there other brands that are generally thought of as being wet or dry? I'd appreciate hearing your experience. Thanks very much.
  19. MadAboutMBs

    My first Waterman

    Hello fellow FP enthusiats. I've mostly been a MB enthusiast. Having used a few Sheaffers and Parkers from my mother's school days, my first real acquisiton was a MB No. 34. Since then, I've always been an MB fan. However, I recently acquired a Waterman's 542 full Flex + Mechanical Pencil set (pic attached) from Teri @ peytonstreetpens. Thanks to him, I'm now the proud owner of a gorgeous SS Filagree pen set. This was my first experience using a Waterman, and that too with a full flex nib! Mama Mia! It was literally love at first write. i must say, im leaning alot towards Waterman as well now I'm new to the forum here and would to learn more about the 542, its years of production, its heritage and experiences of other pen owners. It would be very kind of the patrons if they could share their knowledge with me. I'm attaching pictures of my set here. Many thanks in advance.
  20. I have often thought that ink reviews should be a community effort. Everyone sees something different in an ink. So, I thought I would throw this idea out there. Community Ink Reviews. Someone would start with a particular ink. That person would start with what they like/dislike about the ink with a writing or artistic sample. Then others who have that ink would add their thoughts, observations, or anything they feel adds to the review of the ink. This can be something simple like “this ink is too dry” and shows a writing sample. The next person may add that they like the way the color shades and include their writing sample. Another may say they like the chromatography of the ink and show a sample, another may show an ink illustration. Others might add comparisons with other inks. Your comments can be long or short. It doesn’t matter if it seems like you are repeating what someone else may have said. Your comments are important and it lends credibility to the character of the ink. This is an ink review that everyone should feel comfortable contributing towards. When you add your post, please post a photo (yes, please use whatever camera you have and enjoy), also state your pen, nib and paper used. Why would this be a positive thing for all FPN members? The person reading the Community Review would have the benefit of getting a broader perspective of what an ink might be like. Some really enjoy extra fine nibs, while others really prefer broader nibs. By doing a Community Ink Review, everyone can contribute with whatever pen or paper they choose. Also, this isn’t intended to replace ink reviews done by an individual. It is just meant to be an addition. That is why it is posted in “Inky Thoughts”. So, are you up for this? Would you like to give it a try with me? Let’s start with an ink that many of us have: Waterman Serenity Blue Oops! The last sentence should read "It has a nice sheen too!"
  21. I have this Waterman fountain pen. Here it is capped. Here is is uncapped. Here it is in a close up of the section/nib/feed. I probably need to ask about how to fix this one in the Repair forum, but I'd like to know what it's called. The nib is attached to the feed in an unconventional way. Sorry the photographs are crummy and done with such different lighting. I am not a photographer. Thanks for any help.
  22. Inkyways

    The Pen That Wrote The History.

    This is a new family photo of my Waterman pens.
  23. Hello everybody! =) I write you all this message because I would need a bit of help - I got two Waterman fountain pen (I guess it is waterman as it is written on the nib), which I think are pretty old because I got them from my grandfather who used to buy many various fountain pens in second-hand. I absolutely LOVE them as they are EXACTLY the kind of touch/feedback I was looking for two years ago. Even thiner and even more flexible than my usual Platinum Century 3776 SF that I always use (special renewed thanks to the members who helped me then advising me to buy this pen by the way ) ; they are just GREAT. The problem I have is that I have no idea what they exactly are - I love fountain pens but know very few about them. So could one of you please help me identify them and tell me how I must take care of these new babies in order not to do any damage? (I will attach below, for both the pens, some photos and three links towards youtube unreferenced videos) The only clues I have are the following ones: - The inscription on the nib: "WATERMAN'S IDEAL | REG. U.S. | PAT. OFF" (Identical on both pens) - They probably works with a plunger (the little round thing on the side?) on which is engraved "Ideal" (have no idea about how a plunger pen works!) (identical on both pens) - They are probably old for the reason I wrote above, also because they have no clip on the cap (my father told me this occured only with old pens) - They are extremely pretty!! No relation with some other plastic fountain pens I could find in my grandfather's collection! - They both have flexible nibs. If you have any indication or information to give me, I would be extremely grateful!! I know that vintage flexible fountain pens are usually the best, I heard about the Waterman's ones, so when I saw these two pens I immediately tried their nibs (and loved them), though, I have no clue about their identity, nor their age. I also would like to ask how I could clean them entirely - I've been testing them just diving the nib in my usual Monteverde inks and removing gently the rest of ink with a cloth after use (I didn't mix the inks by the way, always removed the rest of the previous ink before testing another). I love them so much I would be horrified to harm them. I passed the nib of the smaller one under cold water to remove the ink I had used the first time, and could guess there was a rest of some blue ink inside (that doesn't appear when I'm writing though). I know I must not mix some inks with each others, in order not to clog the pen; is there any way I can clean these pens? Generally, can I use them with my Monteverde inks in the future? Is there anything special I should absolutely know about fountain pen care in this case? Could someone also explain me how a plunger fountain pen usually works...? The long pen also seems to have feed issues if I compare it to the small one, which feed "follows" me wathever I do (my favourite from the two, although the nibs seem identical). Below links and pictures. Thanks to all!! =) Photos on google drive (otherwise the display is not adapted): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12CtU2lKJjWmmb_CksVZynFBcyM5Te0UP?usp=sharing Links toward youtube: => => => (Sorry for the poor quality of the videos and the fact it is twisted, with no experience neither professionality and only one hand available I couldn't do anything better ^^ x) ) Inks used: Monteverde, Sapphire for the small one and Rose Noir for the long one. Thanks again! =)
  24. I have two Waterman E’Talon pens, which I have really enjoyed, plus an extra section and point. Problem is they all leak around the half ring clutch that secures the cap. I was able to dissemble one of the sections and believe the problem is the o-ring that fits above that ring (it’s red/orange). I’m thinking of using silicone to try to create a seal there. But that’s not the problem that is driving me crazy. I can’t dissemble either of the two other sections. I’ve tried hot water and physical pulling, but it won’t com apart. From the section I have apart, I know they do not screw, but push on. I am assuming there’s some kind of adhesive involved. To clarify, I can pull out the nib and feed, but the plastic piece that hold then won’t come out from the black plastic grip section. That, in turn, will not pull out of the metal piece that the barrel screws on to and that secures the offending clutch half ring. Any ideas about loosening things up?





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