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Showing results for tags 'waterman'.
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I must say I'm not sure of this review. I bought a pen at the Long Island Pen Show, and the seller always adjusts the nib on the pens they sell to be properly set for flow, etc. They used Waterman Mysterious Blue, and I left the fill in the pen. What has me confused is that one page I wrote on MvL it seemed like a kind of weak ink, definitely not a blue-black, or even a dark blue. But when I got to writing the review on the Hammermill paper, I had a much richer, darker color. And when I write again on the Mohawk paper, it is darker like on the other paper. I don't really know why this happened, so I'll just show the one review sheet. The ink is not water-resistant, as expected. The color is a green-leaning blue, but not so much to be anywhere near teal. Totally easy behavior, without flaws or problems. Easily cleans from pens. Available all over, I imagine. Easy on the eyes.
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Yesterday i've attempted to repair a waterman 42 safety pen for the first time . everything has gone fine until i reached the cork seal. Of course it was old, full of dirty and almost in pieces. I managed to make a well-fitting one from a nice piece of cork but i've read somewhere that i'll need to boil it in paraffine or wax to make it works properly, but i can't find a complete description of the whole process. I've also read that someone use o-rings instead of a cork seal. Can someone link me a source where i can find/buy them? (possibly in Europe ) Thank you for the help!
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I've recently decided to upgrade my fountain pen collection to more investment pens, now that I've experimented enough to know exactly what I like: a crisp Japanese (~0.2-0.3mm) fine, relatively stiff. How is the Carène's EF by comparison? A little bit wider? A lot wider? Would grinding it to the desired width be a good idea?
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Hi guys, first time posting on this forum or any at all actually, but I've been collecting fountain pens for about 1 year or so, but I've been using them for pretty my whole albeit short life. I've recently acquired a Waterman's No.7 Pink nib fountain pen and I've been making a list of things that will probably need to be repaired by a professional. I was wondering between Greg Minuskin and Goldnibs.com, which you guys recommend? I've looked up older Repair Q&A posts and there hasn't been any real consensus between who is better. Location would not make a difference as I am living in Southeast Asia so international shipping will still be needed. As for the repairs needed, I've listed the, below in order of importance to me. Nib: 1. Slight crack on the left tine of the nib, thankfully it does not go down to the underside of the nib, still flexes just fine with great spring but I will not be flexing it anymore until it gets repaired as I know it will stress and worsen the crack. 2. The tip of the nib I noticed doesn't bent downwards like my other vintage Waterman's, I have a red and purple nib as well that have this downward curve on the nib tip. As far as I am aware with the writing and slight flexing I've done with the nib it's slightly scratchy but doesn't have any other problems really. 3. Scratches all over the nib, not sure how those would have gotten there but it is nearly 100 years old so who knows. polishing out the scratches isn't really important to me as I think it adds abit of character to the pen. Which you can see in the picture below. Cap: The colour and white bands on the cap of the pen have some blue staining which I am entirely unsure of how to remove. I've tried some water and a light scrub with a wet Q-tip, it looks like an ink stain, but it doesn't seem to work. I've asked Jake from Jakespens about a replacement colour band but it seems to be slightly more complicated than I would like to attempt. Any information on who would be the best person to send my pen to would be great, I am aware that Nibs.com has a repair service as well but its been stated on their website that their turn around times is about 6 months? I'm opened to suggestions on other repair persons I have not mentioned before, but as it is this is a very scarce pen and I would like to get it right the first time. Oh and money should not be an issue so I am opened to ideas. Thanks!
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I have a large collection of ink, but only one purple must be remedied! . The purple I have is waterman, can anyone recommend something with a touch more red? Has anyone used diamine imperial or MB violet? If so do you think these might fit the bill. Any suggestions welcome I'm in the UK so noodlers and PR are harder to procure. Thank ye all
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Hi everyone: I've just registered into this forum as I have a doubt about iron-gall inks: I currently own a waterman carène, which is the best pen I have and has a great sentimental value, as it was given to me as a special gift. I'm trying to find a permanent ink for taking some notes i'd like to review on the future, and, from what I've read, iron-gall inks are permanent ones. I like the R&K Salix one, as I've seen it on this website reviews along with other inks. My doubt is: will my carène be harmed, or corroded if I end up using this ink? It has some kind of a gold cover on the nib, hence my doubt. And, a second one, but closely related question: Should I get a different pen for iron-gall inks? A TWSBI, for instance? Thanks for your advice
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Good evening folks! Had a very interesting pen come across my work bench, and I would like to share its simple repair with everyone. This will also serve as a maintenance pictorial for the future owner of this pen. These Waterman Piston fillers were made for the Swiss market sometime in the 1950's, and only for a few years before production ceased. It has two ink view port holes to see ink capacity. 1. Dis-assembly. The section is threaded, and will be the first piece to take off. If your section won't unscrew it might be shellaced in. Use some heat, but be careful since celluloid can melt. Go slow! Once the section is out turn the piston knob to deploy the piston rod all the way down, and give it 2-3 extra turns. This will disengage the rod from the turning knob, and don't worry it won't harm the knob since the piston rod has extra room with the section removed for the knob to fully disengage. Once the turning knob is off use something firm and narrow enough to fit inside the barrel. Use this to push the piston rod out of the barrel from front to back getting the piston rod out at the knob end. Sorry the pictures are dark, but you will manage. 2. Lube/Replace piston seal. Lube with Silicone Grease. For threads on the section, piston rod, and piston knob that threads into the barrel I like to lube the beginning two-three circles of the threads that will engage first. Once you thread these parts in the silicone grease will spread, and coat the threads evenly. I didn't have to replace the seal on this pen since it was still good, so can't give you hands on advice on replacing it, but it should be fairly straight forward since you have the piston rod out. Remember to lube the piston seal whether you need to replace or not on the front and back seal. I used a toothpick to lightly coat the entire circumference. 3. Putting it all back together. I love how simple this pen is, and its simplicity makes it so easy for maintenance. First screw the section back in. Once you get the section in insert the piston rod from the back of the barrel. Use a firm stick to push it all the way down the barrel until it sits against the section. Which should look like this once its seated. Now take your piston knob and seat it against the barrel ready to thread back in. Before you thread it back into the barrel it will catch the piston rod first for about a turn or two before the knob will thread into the barrel. This design makes it easy for the piston to be at the perfect length all the time(great design!). I put the knob against the barrel feeling contact with the piston rod, and gave it a turn in the unthreading direction until I feel the threads sit and line up to know I have a positive catch on the threads(great habit to not cross thread anything!), and then I start screwing the knob in. Just screw it all the way in and the piston will be perfect. 4. Enjoy a freshly lubed piston filler with a great Waterman nib(this one has flex, and the figure 8's on the paper is from this very pen!)
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Hello FPN! I've got a Waterman Taperite (open nib version) that's been giving me trouble since I got it. The pen writes dryly and refuses to write on upstrokes. The nib appears to not be touching the feed and I can wiggle the nib in the section with my fingers. I've tried pulling them out of the section, resetting the position the nib/feed, then sticking them back in, to no avail. What else should I try before saying "screw it" and sending it to a professional to fix?
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I like to wear my ringtop pens (a somewhat risky practice, but I don't wear shirts with pockets and it's great to have a pen on you all the time), and I wear them to work. My boss is a bit of a fountain pen fancier himself and he noticed my red ripple 52 1/2 v when I came into his office. "That's my uncle's suicide pen!" he said. Apparently, his great-grand-uncle was the brother of the actor who played Scarlett O'Hara's dad in "Gone With The Wind," but he didn't do as well, became despondent and, as his family said, "took the pipe." It appears that he wrote his suicide note with a red ripple pen, which the family still has. I'll bet that my boss tries to get his hands on it in the near future, but my ringtop will always be The Suicide Pen.
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I love blues – from lovely turquoise to deep blurples. Last year, I ran across L’Artisan Pastellier Callifolio inks. L’Artisan Pastellier is a “boutique” brand that specially formulate fountain pen inks under the Callifolio name. They are made in France and are not widely distributed. L’Artisan Pastellier are better known for their dyes made for art products. I was able to obtain some samples of a few of their inks and liked them. I ordered a few more and like them as well. I picked up a few of their foil bottles at a pen show, then late last year, I ordered a dozen more foil bottles of mostly blues. Callifolio inks are known for their wonderful blue shades and offer a wide variety from the softer Bleu Azur to the enigmatic Baikal with its strong purply grey overtones. Callifolio inks are very well behaved, and shade and sheen very nicely, especially on Tomoe River paper or the Tomoe River-like Midori 013 refill paper. Almost all of the blues that I have tried, as well as the Grenat, Andrinople, Violet, Omi Osun and Olivastre are fairly wet inks. So far, only Aurora seems to be on the dry side. Note, however, that some Callifolio inks are not deeply saturated. Callifolio inks in the foil bottles are reasonably priced. Vanness Pens sells them for $8.00 for 50ml. I decant the foil bottles into small Nalgene bottles which I purchase for about $1.50 per bottle. They also sell the ink in lovely triangular shaped glass bottles which are a few dollars more. Vanness Pens sells both the foil bottle and glass bottle, as well as samples. Just for fun, I compared several of the Callifolio inks with a few other that I have. After preparing a writing sample (on Hammermill copy paper – fairly fountain pen friendly paper), I then put the page in water to test the water resistance. I left the page in the water for 2 minutes then blotted the paper with a paper towel. The paper was well saturated with the water because it fell apart. I was surprised at the water resistence. I expected the images to be completely gone, but they were not. Next time, I will try this for a longer period of time to see if the color washes out more. Overall, I like the properties of Callifolio inks very much. My apologies for the pictures. I used my iPhone and the lighting wasn't the best.
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52 days ago I made this topic about a problem with my Waterman Carène: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/305762-to-waterman-carene-owners I wrongly assumed it was ink, but pen2paper raised the issue of chemicals on a leather case. I had a leather case made a couple of years ago and have been keeping the pen into it since. Then Force also came to rescue – people said he would – and recommended polishing with a polish liquid. Ghost Plane gave the final touch by recommending I used a cotton ear, since I was worried about damaging other surfaces of the pen. I must confess that I was skeptic about it, and took me almost a month to try. I knew I would be disappointed if it didn't work. BUT IT DID! I want to take all FPNers who were so kind, helpful and helped making the topic alive, especially the aforementioned ones. FPN is really a terrific place to gather and know everything about fountain pens and everything related to them! http://www.clipartkid.com/images/9/happy-dance-clipart-best-jKcPlf-clipart.png THANK YOU!!! Marcelo
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Nobody effing move! Uncle Bob stop looking at the clouds! I really need to clean those Mujis... The dirty from the inside Vista caps... I don't mind.
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Hello all! I'm a long time reader, first time writer on this forum. I figured that, with the vast pool of knowledge in here, this issue might have been addressed, but I cannot find it anywhere. so here goes. I recently bought a waterman 52, "wood grain" pen. it is very flexible for what I was expecting. Not too much and not too little. but i'm noticing a serious issue with it. The nib and feed, when starting a line. begin parallel. "====" like this. But as I apply pressure to flex the tines a bit, the nib and feed are pressed away from each other. closer to a "<" sort of shape. This angle is exaggerated to be sure, but it is still extreme enough to cause the ink to travel away from the tines. which causes railroading for a line, then a completely cut from all ink stores. This is all resolved with a simple tap on top of the nib to restore it to the parallel position. So my question is this. Is there any way that I can fix this in a way that would not involve shellac? I've heard a thin swab inside of the section will resolve most loose nib and feed issues, but I'm a little timid to perform this. And I don't necessarily want to send it to a professional restoration place just yet. PS. the pictures that I added (if it works) are of the nib and feed. The one pointing to the side shows a "before writing" position. nib and feed are nestled in close to each other. the one pointing to the camera shows the nib and feed separated just enough to stop writing. Hope the pictures and description help with getting ideas. Thank you.
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Hello. I seem to have a problem identifying a Waterman fountain pen. Do you think there is a chance that you could give me a hand ?
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EDIT: I ended up getting the section in using some careful beating from the back end of a screwdriver. Don't see any way to delete posts here... Still very unsettling pounding the feed into that little brittle plastic section. Being newer to fountain pens I finally just bought my first vintage pen which is a Waterman's Crusader with an open stub nib. The pen was advertised as working but I wanted to make sure since the seller didn't mention the condition of the ink sack only that the pen worked. So I took my time and took the section off by twisting a bit and carefully pulling a bit and twisting a bit more for quite some time. Sure enough the pen "worked" but the ink sack was torn: http://i.imgur.com/g8BHY8ml.jpg So I ordered 2 #16 sacs after doing some research (an extra "just in case") and some pure talc and went out and bought some Zinsser Amber shellac. And I took the pen completely apart and started assesing the job in front of me. I punched the feed out very carefully and cleaned everything up. I also took the cage out of the cap as the cap wiggled on the pen a good bit so I figured maybe I could bend the sections of it that grip the pen back in some to get a tighter grip. http://i.imgur.com/R7VJ5AYl.jpg I'm ready to start putting it back together but I noticed that the feed is extremely tight going into the section even though its clean. There is no way I will be able to get it in by hand, even without the nib on the feed I wouldn't be able to get just the feed alone in all the way by hand.. How should I go about putting the feed and nib back in? Should I heat set the feed first? I have a heat gun that I could use to heat the feed up. I assume this feed would be Ebonite correct? I don't know how to tell, it feels a little more grippy than the plastic feeds on my cheap Jinhao pens and it is a vintage pen so I would assume its ebonite and can be heat set. If it is ebonite should I heat set it so it fits better in the section and the nib fits better on the feed? http://i.imgur.com/if4TREml.jpg Thanks! And I can't wait to get to use this pen after I get it fixed up. This will be my first time using a vintage pen like this.
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Hello everyone! I found this site through a google search because I have some fountain pens, and I wanted to learn the value because I'm looking to sell. I just got out of a 5 month relationship will a real pen lover. Unfortunately, I was never able to match his zeal for the pens. I think they're beautiful, but I'm a messy writer and I don't like the idea of having ink stained hands. I'm also clumsy and can only imagine the kind of luck I'd have carrying around glass bottles of ink. My dear ex purchased four different pens for me during our time together...despite the very obvious sign that I never opened or used the previous pen. To add further insult to the blatant disregard for my actual gift preferences, I have very small hands and he kept gifting me with GIANT pens! I realized that he must have only wanted to do something nice for me because I do love to write, so I called and asked him if he would like them back...he very impolitely described some colorful things that I could do with the pens instead. I'd prefer to find a home for them with another pen lover. Hopefully, I'll figure out how to use this forum and you'll see them listed in the classifieds soon. They're all 100% brand new and unused, so I'd like to try to get something close to the values I've seen online. And I might just use some of the money to buy a pack of erasable Bic pens out of spite.
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I just acquired a Waterman Sleeve Filler with a wet noodle nib and did some research on its production - all I can find online is that it was apparently patented in 1909 and that it was produced from 1910-1915 before Waterman lever fillers went into production. The problem here is that my pen is labelled thus: "Pat'd 1884 May 23, 1899 Waterman's (Ideal) Fountain- Pen N.Y. U.S.A. & Aug 4, 1903" This inscription is on the sleeve itself. Any advice? Photos below - I hope they show up, it's my first time adding photos to a post. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j30/egglorru/Screen%20Shot%202016-04-02%20at%205.09.28%20PM_zps1ewkfsgs.pnghttp://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j30/egglorru/Screen%20Shot%202016-04-02%20at%205.10.00%20PM_zpsq161rxln.png
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I'm a complete newbie--I know Lady Patricia and that's it. I got this pen yesterday and it would be nice to know a little more about it. It has a semi-flex nib with a round breather hole, looks like below Ideal it says 4-K Watermans on the barrel. Watermans on the clip. It was beautiful on ebay and gorgeous in real life. Very good price, AFAIC.
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Famed neurologist Dr. Oliver Sacks passed away this week. After reading his book "Uncle Tungsten" I wrote him to say how much I enjoyed it, and how the section where he talks about his memories of the pens his mother used resonated with me. He was kind enough to write back where he explains that he too is a pen lover, and still hand writes all his manuscripts with pen. I thought you may enjoy reading his letter. Bart
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I am thinking of buying a next-level fountain pen (No flex. For now). I have been going through a lot of fountain pen models, searching for reviews etc but I can not decide. What I am looking for is a pen that is comfortable to hold in order to write for pages and writes smoothly. I have seen some Carene and I have to say that they are very positive. Any other recommendations of similar price range? Any experiences on the Carene? I found it cheaply on Zafeiriou for 200 eu. Better price suggestions are welcome.
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We have all seen the dozens of books telling the story of the Waterman fountain pen beginnings and we all know about the L.E. Waterman and A. A. Waterman problems,, but... ...have many seen and read this tidbit of information? It's a fascinating read and actually makes one wonder if the details are genuine or if some of the Waterman historical facts could be erroneous?! Because I love history and things that are old (although my hubby is younger), I found this a very interesting read. Just wanted to share...thoughts? The missing pieces? (With thanks to Daniel Kirchheimer).
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Hello everyone! I came across a listing on eBay for a waterman 14 eyedropper. one thing that was strange to me was the clip shape. I've never seen a waterman eyedropper clip without the ball at the end of it. it doesn't look like the ball broke off either, since the length seems to be right. could anyone help out? Here is the link: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/381528360505?_trksid=p2060353.m2748.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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I had WM Exception with damage section but nib was not damage. I wasn't able 2 buy just section only with nib & feed which was IMO 2 costly. I notice that Exception & Expert have very similar nib so decided 2 make small experiment. I bought WM Expert with damage nib for 12 $ & simply switch it with this from Exception. Pen was tested intensively today at work & I can tell one thing it write great & no leaking what so ever.
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Two pages of the May, 1918 catalog for Chicago stationers Cameron, Amberg & Co. Oh, and I guess they were selling fountain pens as well.
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Hi all, I'm pretty new to the fountain pen world, and I've started gentle (Noodler's pens, a starter calligraphy kit, some Jin-Haos) and I've decided to make the Waterman Carene my first (more) expensive pen. I've found some good new in box models on ebay but they don't have the Fine nib I want - I was wondering if anyone knew if the Waterman warranty and nib exchange service only covers the original buyer or if any owner of the pen with the warranty booklet was covered for service? Secondarily, if anyone on here is looking to sell a Waterman Carene with a Fine nib in good condition for ~$150 used I'm quite interested
