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Hello there!! Hopefully some might be able to help me with an ID of my Waterman My mother bought it YEARS ago, and I just found it after going through storage. I know it's worth something, but I'm having a problem identifying the *exact* model. There are similar pens around, but they are much thinner and shorter because they've all got #2 nibs, and this one has a #10. I've written to Waterman, but have yet to hear anything. I have seen other eyedroppers, but they do not have the overlay. Apparently, according to one guy, there were only 3 made in this era? Who knows if that's correct. Sincerely can't find any information on this one- or maybe I just don't know/can't find where to look? Here are the characteristics: - Thick/fat body and cap - 6.5" long - Warn off "20" with a circle on the base of the body - Hard Rubber body and cap (probably black before, now looks dark chocolate) - Sterling Silver overlay - Trefoil Vine pattern (1907-1923) - "Waterman's Ideal Fountain Pen" and "Sterling." engraved (crookedly) on silver - Clip Cap on lower half of cap (not in middle like on other, shorter similar pens) - "Clip-Cap; Sterling; IDEAL; PAT Sep. 26.05" engraved - Nib #10 - "Waterman's; IDEAL; Reg US; Pat. Off.; 10; Made In; USA" engraved If anyone could help me regarding this model of pen, it would be greatly appreciated!

Howdy, I have been a member since 2014, but just now read the rules for this site. I am a poet, composer, fiber artist, and former computer security geek. I love to write, and I love to write with fountain pens. I have been using cheap fountain pens since elementary school. But in the 1980's I discovered Waterman and Parker pens. I have a tiny fountain pen collection now. Waterman (set with Rollerball pen, paperwork and cartridges but, alsa, no box ),Parker,Staedtler Calligraphy set, 2 vintage Schaeffer's, a ton of nibs and a few dip pen holders. I aspire to find a vintage 1970's Lamy 25P German fountain pen that works. I like to write and do calligraphy in my art journals and bullet journals with fountain pens. Is anyone here using fountain pens in their bullet journals? Which waterproof (international standard short) ink cartridges do you like? Any inks that don't bleed through? I keep my fountain pens in a vintage Parker Sherman cigarette box that I found in an antique store... So glad I found FPN! Peace, LuLu

Hi, I'm new to restoring Waterman safety pens, I read up on their disassembly and replacing the cork with o-rings (which I plan to do with this one), but I haven't seen much on restoring the cap. Is there anything to replace in the cap or a way to check if the cap seal is working properly? My second question is about an overlay. Is ther a way to remove the overlay to better polish it and clean the barrel underneath or would that just break the pen? (I'm guessing their isn't, but though I'd ask). Thanks in advance for your help!

Pen Friends:-) I found this odd looking Waterman in a second hand shop and I was not planning on collecting but hey, why not. Can somebody help me identify it or point me to a nice Waterman catalogue? (ive not found one yet) have a nice evening!

I'm not a waterman person, so was hoping someone could tell me what I have here? https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1488248489__waterman.jpg

Hello, Does anyone know where I might be able to find a nib for a Waterman Expert I? A relative passed along one to me, and it is in like-new shape except for the nib. Thanks for any advice or recommendations.

The "button" on top of the cap to my Waterman Expert fountain pen has been missing for so long I've given up trying to look for it. It is the portion at the very top of the cap that holds the metal clip in place. I e-mailed Waterman for a replacement and they apparently do not stock these parts. Does anyone know of a source in which I can buy this button or even a full replacement Cap for the Expert? Looking on EBay, no one is selling Caps or buttons - only full pens. thanks!

An interesting pen on eBay this week: a Waterman 52 with the rare Artist's nib: it's posted by David Nishimura and his description is accurate and thoughtful. I happened to find a ringtop version last year and it's a lovely pen to draw with: not superflex, as Mr. Nishimura observes, but very springy and responsive. The kind of artists who drew images in the newspapers would probably use this pen. It's also a great tool for on-the-spot drawings. Anyway, it's probably a bargain if it goes for under two bills.

Please help..

My boss has really taken to fountain pens, which is very pleasing, and he's scheming to apply a graphical look to a show he's developing. So he's lately much taken with the look of his Waterman Commando on cheap paper: feathery, bleedy paper. Newsprint! Of course, I'm a paper snob as well as a pen snob, so I'm less delighted with the look, but he's the boss, and I'm rather attached to the project (especially since one of the characters looks like me). If this goes anywhere it's going to be an interesting ride.

I've only found one other review anywhere on this forum for this color red. I thought they did an excellent job, but I just wanted to add my own contribution to it. Mostly, I was also just really excited to get a full bottle of this ink and put it in a pen. It is very watery, and very easy to clean. I do not have a single other ink yet that is this easy and quick to clean. Basically, if I need a red ink, and I want to put it in a vintage pen that does not disassemble easily, this is the ink I will be reaching for. I keep mentioning that because it is one of my hesitations with putting ink in a pen -- I don't want it to put the pen out of commission. Also the ease of cleaning seems to be relative to the ease of how it will behave on the page. This one behaves really well. Plus .... vintage ink! The paper is Rhodia cream 80g. I think it brings out the purple shading a little more than the white does, in my opinion. The scan seems to have captured the color I see on the page, looking at it through my monitor. The bottle design looks almost the same as a modern Waterman bottle, which is interesting. The yellow/red box definitely marks it as vintage. And I was really amused at the little "union made" stamp at the bottom of the box. Had to bring the loupe to it to actually read it, but it seems to have come out fine in this pic.

I confess I am not a connoisseur... But 1299,- seems to me exaggerated. http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATERMAN-7-Red-Ripple-WET-NOODLE-Mint-Museum-Grade-Must-See-18k-Flex-1909-/222337787428?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:NL:3160 If this price is right, please enlighten me! ;-)

Hi everyone, I have been lurking on the FPN for a little while and apart from an introduction topic, this is my first post. Fairly recently my love for fountian pens was re-kindled so I started looking around on ebay and local 2nd hand sites for some interesting buys. I bought some new pens and I bought some vintage pens. Two of the pens I bought were Waterman's and both were purchased for 15€. I believe that one of the two is a Stalwart/Starlet-version (the tortoise one). I can't really identify the other. I'll just call it a Waterman's Ideal Made in England. The Ideal was in working order and had just received a new sac. The Starlet needed a new one so I bought some sacs and shellac and repaired it. I exchanged the nibs (might change them back) because I really like the fine nib of the Starlet but the Ideal was the one in working order. The nib of the Ideal (now on the Starlet) is nice too but skips sometimes and it is broader. All in all, I'm very happy with these purchases. Now, for my question: the Starlet is missing the clip from the cap as you can see on the pictures below. Is there any way to get such a clip somewhere to repair it? Are there perpaps some online shops that sell these kind of parts? Also, if someone can help me identify the model of the black pen more correctly, I would appreciate that.

This is one of the first ink I bought. I was looking for a good blue black ink, just to have something different from the usual cartdridge available Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue, Black, and Blue Black. Waterman's Mysterious Blue revealed to be something totally different in a pleasant way. Mysterious Blue is a strange ink, when wet appears to be a beautiful dark blue which turns to a lighter and with a touch of green tone after dried (difference is very consistent if you leave a considerable ammount of times) equally beautiful. The flow is consistent and behaves well on every paper ( I noticed a little feathering and bleedthrough on cheap copy paper). Shading is always noticeable on every kind of paper, and is absolutely impressive for a "supposed to be blue - black " ink. The colour is absolutely work appropriate, no one is going to look at you strangely if you use it to sign your professional papers. This is not a waterproof ink, it has some hints of water resistance, but it's really close to none. Even if this ink has a good flow, this ink has not long drying times, just 5 sec for normal copy paper and 10 sec for tracing paper, so if you're left handed and you're reading this review, yes, this can be an option for you. For those who likes sheeny ink (like me), I've noticed a relly good magenta sheen on tracing paper which I've never seen before this test. Another interesting fact about this ink is that, in my opinion, it's really close to some higher price range inks (like limited edition Mont Blanc Blue Hour / Twilight Blue) but at a third of the cost. I've got both, I love MB Blue Hour, it's one of the my favourite inks for several reasons, but as long as I have Waterman's Mysterious Blue, I don't see any reason to waste it (or to buy it if you're looking for it). In the end, is this ink worth it? Yes, this ink, at this price (I bought it for 5€ a 50 ml bottle, but I would accept to buy it for 8€-9€ as well) has a great value. Do not expect a classic Blue Black, because in my opinion this is not a Blue Black, is something between a Dark Blue and a Teal ink if I've to say, but is indeed something you're not going to find in standard Pelikan 4001 ink cartridges. It's a good ink for beginner's, for work, for drawing and for any purpose you can find. So if in doubt, buy it, it's worth a try. COPY PAPER SCHIZZA & STRAPPA PAPER TRACING PAPER CROMATOGRAPHY Please refer at the cromatography for the ammount of green in this ink, the scans really do not bring out how much the ink turns on the green side after dried. INKDROP

There are some of my pens for sale this week listed at my website that some of you might be interested in. A Montblanc 147 with a "B" nib. $375.00 http://www.fototime.com/4C5CBF4CD74117B/medium800.jpg A Waterman 100 Year Lady's pen set in fantastic shape with the original presentation box and guarantee. $487.00 http://www.fototime.com/34A52EA1BD18493/medium800.jpg An Omas D-Day Commemorative from 1994 with an 18K F nib. $450.00 http://www.fototime.com/0D6D2EFE30278BF/medium800.jpg Two small Waterman 52½v Ring Top pens. $130.00 each http://www.fototime.com/939E9B09656A58E/medium800.jpg A Montegrappa 302 with Sterling silver body and furniture and enameled cap. $225.00 http://www.fototime.com/FD9724D187539D8/medium800.jpg A Sterling silver Aurora 88 in the standard size (not the large size) with a factory stub nib. $850.00 http://www.fototime.com/7990E526E106679/standard.jpg

I have a two Waterman Fountain pens are a Hemisphere and a Forum Agora. Can both pens use with the Schmidt K5 Converter?

My Waterman fountain pen started skipping the beginning of each word a few days ago out of nowhere. The colour it writes has also become clearly lighter (same ink and paper), so the ink flow must be disturbed. I have tried flossing the nib with 0.001 brass shim. I also removed, washed and soaked over night the feed, all to no avail. I'm not sure if it would make sense to floss with 0.002 brass shim, since the pen was wet to begin with. EDIT: I've read about "baby's bottom". But can a pen that is fine out-of-the-box develop that problem?

Having a few #52 Watermans in full and 1/2V sizes, I felt the inclination to try a couple of different nibs from Waterman pens in the same era. I bought a #55, the same style as a 52 with a different (No. 5) nib, and a #94, a thicker pen also with a nib (No.4) different from my other old Watermans. It is the latter pen I am reviewing here. My comments and scores mean to reflect the context of a vintage pen, not today’s pen new out of the box. My comparison point is mostly other Watermans and to some extent Onotos of the same era (Onotos have their own virtues and foibles). Observing worse pens on ebay and other sites also influences some of the ratings. Appearance & Design Style is fairly typical of the era, which would be the mid to late 1920s as near as I can date it. The #94 is slightly shorter and fatter than a #52. It is only a millimetre thicker but visually looks to be more, especially in the cap. Furnishings on this pen are nickel, in good condition. The clip is a Waterman item, double-pinned to the cap, very probably an option with the purchase rather than universally fitted on #94 pens. The holding ring on the clip does not go all of the way around the cap, and there is no recess or other provision for it, so these suggest it was a Waterman option (marked with the Ideal globe symbol) added on order or by the retailer. The ball end on the clip suffers brassing, the rest is in excellent shape. There are the common four breather holes in the cap which undoes in a single full turn. Notably missing is the original dress ring on the bottom of the cap. The recess for it is present, so that knocks down marks for appearance. Actually, it all looks a bit boring but I do not mind that. I see the pen as a workhorse which will not raise eyebrows for most people when I take it out, but looks as practical as it is. The gold nib is a good large-ish size, well proportioned to the pen and in good condition with clear writing on it. There are no fins visible under the feed. On balance, I think the appearance and design wander below average, perhaps disadvantaged by prominent stylishness in my #52 pens. Score 3 Construction & Quality This #94 is BCHR which I read is a little unusual for #94 pens around today. Apparently the majority are celluloid, so probably score far higher in the previous category of appearance. Imprints in the HR are finely cut but all quite distinct with no part worn away. The barrel says on its longitudinal axis “Watermans // Reg U.S. (Ideal) Pat Off // Fountain Pen”and radially around the end cap the same first two lines then “Made in USA” as the third. On the end is a clear “94” as pictured. Chasing on the barrel and cap are present but not prominent, and the pen as a whole has that slightly faded look, a slight olive hue in the black. The end caps remain shiny. Everything is tight where it should be. The filing lever is straight and still closes with a click. Cosmetically there are no apparent scratches, no cracks, and no bite marks. Apart from a lack of polish, there is really nothing wrong with quality; definitely well above average. Score 9 (with due consideration for its age over its original appearance) Weight & Dimensions I do not post pens anyway unless they are exceptionally small. In this case I doubt I would want to even if it were a prior habit. The cap sits firmly on the barrel but very high. With the weight of the large clip this shifts the pen’s balance point by a few centimetres as the total length moves from 122 mm uncapped / unposted to 165 mm posted. Weight (without ink) is nearly 18g capped or posted dropping to a little over 10g uncapped. Unposted, it is a nice, light pen with a good thickness of grip for my taste. The section below the threads is thinner than the barrel of course, with the classical flared shape. It is easy and comfortable to hold and to control for any amount of time. For me I might score it 9 but if you really insist on capping your pens then you might be thinking of 3. Score 7. Nib & Performance What I like is that the nib is smooth and the pen writes first time every time with none of the vintage temperamentality one can find. The nib is well adjusted, in great shape, and behaves well despite the visible ink on it in the picture (Waterman Serenity Blue). See the picture of writing to glean more. Flex is not my thing so I find it hard to comment on that sensibly. It appears to me that flex is minimal although I rarely add pressure to pens. Certainly the No. 5 nib on my Onoto 6234 flexes significantly more than this without much pressure. My score is 9. Reduce that score if flex is important to you or you like to compare with a brand new high-quality pen. Filling System & Maintenance This is of course a lever fill pen. It had been serviced before I received it. The mechanism works as it should and the pen fills enough to satisfy me, which means it does not need to hold a lot of ink. I rarely fill pens entirely. I have not tried removing the section, having no present need. It should not be difficult, having been done somewhat recently. Given everything fits and works properly with no leaks, I score this above average. Score 7. Cost & Value Converting to a currency most people use or can index readily, the 94 cost me about US$148 plus modest freight. I do not assign a score to a cost, because that makes no sense at all. The value is in the pen which is then compared with cost to determine a value-to-cost view. Your position on marginal affordability will be of far more weight in the “value” of the dollars. Conclusion The average and median score of the first five items is 7, rating it comfortably above average, and not great. I like this pen. It will lead me to sell the #32 which is even more boring in appearance and less pleasing with which to write. Then again, the #32 cost far less so what did I expect? I am content with the particular purchase and commend the #94 style and nib for those with an interest in trying a vintage pen or expanding their range. It is highly likely to retain a normal place in my rotation, perhaps a little more often where I might be taking it out of the house as a practical, smooth, reliable, and largely bling-free pen. A note on methodology. I used a classical 5-point scale for scoring, then expanded it to use nominally 1-9. People have trouble using or processing 10-point scales or scales with no true neutral point, where my neutral is 5. The real problem in most scales is failure to use the available range, compressing to the upper end. I think 7-point might have been a better option for this.

I am considering to buy a Carène. Thus I wondered which cases I could use to carry it around. I would use this pen at home and probably in environments like a university. Which cases fit? Which cases do you think are good? Maybe: which cases match the design? I am looking forward for recommendations. I glanced at a simple case by Lamy ( http://www.lamyshop.com/lederwaren-lamy-a112.html ). Maybe some of you gained experience with this case?

Hi everyone! I'm pretty new here, so I hope this kind of post is okay (tell me if it isn't). I have a question about two Waterman fountain pens I own. There are very similiar, both marble-ish blue, but one is a bit darker than the other. The caps of the pens differ slightly, one of the caps has a logo on it and the other doesn't. I have owned and used these pens for years without really knowing what kind of fountain pens they are. I have a suspicion that they might be Waterman Hemispheres but the recent Hemispheres look really different. I didn't buy them myself, they were a gift from my grandfather (who doesn't remember them, sadly). Do any of you know what pen this is? http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z480/Heldinnen/IMAG1179_zpscwfbin8x.jpg http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z480/Heldinnen/IMAG1181_zpsezfpkjuv.jpg http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z480/Heldinnen/IMAG1182_zpsmsvga1en.jpghttp://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z480/Heldinnen/IMAG1180_zpsmw2uqwvl.jpg http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z480/Heldinnen/IMAG1183_zpsnwgo1xjr.jpg Thanks in advance!

Hello all, I felt like comparing my blue inks after acquiring Noodler's Baystate Blue yesterday, so here they are : - Waterman Inspired Blue - Diamine Florida Blue - Noodler's Baystate Blue - Private Reserve American Blue Fast Dry - Pilot Blue - Noodler's Polar Blue - Sailor Jentle Blue - Saior Jentle Blue-Black - Pilot Blue-Black - Diamine Majestic Blue - Diamine Registrar's - Private Reserve Ebony Blue All names are written with a J. Herbin glass pen. The swabs are done with Q-tips. For each swab, the upper line is 3-pass and the bottom is only one with what is left of ink on the q-tip. The paper is Rhodia 80 g/m2. This is my first post, but I read FPN posts since 2012. Thank you everyone for creating and feeding such an amazing source of information! Edit : ... And I initially forgot a newly acquired Noodler's Blue Upon The Plains of Abraham :

Today I bought a new Parker IM with a fine nib. This is the first time I buy a fine pen, hence the question. Using the same ink in my new pen and my Waterman Perspective medium (Waterman Mysterious Blue ink, from the bottle for Parker and cartridge for Perspective), I compared the two pens. The Parker creates a very different color that is unusually light. It gets even lighter after writing a line or two. It's also as dry as they come. Comparison sample attached. As I said, the color can get lighter at times. The camera is making it look sharper as well.

Just wanted to let the Waterman fans that I just found an antique waterman display case on liveauctioneers. It is a beautiful case, and I'm sure it will go for far more than I can afford with kids in college....but someone who loves the pens should get it. Auction is middle of Nov., lots of time to drool and dream! Attaching a pic for those that just wanna dream.

Whenever I uncap my Edson (M), I find ink on the section. I've learned to grip farther away from the nib, but I still get ink on my fingers. I think what's happening is the ink from the nib creep transfers to the cap which then transfers to the grip section when I cap/uncap the pen. Anyone know how I can prevent this? Thanks in advance.

Hello guys, I have read richardpens on color coding, red is medium point and semi-flex. However, on Vintagepen.net, there is the red ripple model number 5 with red nib but from the writing example, it is very flexible. So, it is really difficult for beginner like me to explore the ebay and bid with confidence without seeing the writing samples. Could you guys please educate me? How flex of the nib can tell by only color coding? Or every pen is different? Because of personal modification? Thanks a lot. http://wwww.richardspens.com/?page=ref/misc/wat_nib_colors.htm http://www.vintagepen.net/-waterman---pg-1.html