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Dear FPN'ers, This group buy is for RANGA Handmade Pens Model 4& 4C in beautiful Premium Ebonites. This Group Buy is Valid till 31-March-21 This is beautiful Cigar Shaped Pen in seamless finish. These are Popular Ranga Model Pen. It caps in less than 1 turn. The pens are completely handcrafted .Ebonite is Durable, evergreen ,long lasting , Classic and favorite material for Pen lovers. It has Vintage Characteristics Model 4 is slightly conical Shaped and Model 4C is beautiful Cigar Shaped Pen in seamless finish. These are the Popular Ranga Model Pen . It caps in less than 1 turn. Capped Length - Approximately 5.75 Inches Cap Dia - 16mm, Barrel Dia - 16mm, Section Dia - 12.5mm at Thickest part and 11mm at thinnest part. In order to purchase Ranga Model 4 / 4C Pen , Kindly fill the Google Form (Link Below) RANGA Model 4 & 4C - ORDER FORM --------------------------------------------- https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdA5uptKf_moX1BHBVSLcS7jcVI2Mo3PZkdyfB-5osBnIp-DA/viewform?vc=0&c=0&w=1&flr=0 Prices are as follows: RANGA Model 4 & 4C : Premium Ebonite with Ranga Nib and German Schmidt Converter: 74USD (Its Regular Price is 89USD). Regular Ebonite with Ranga Nib and German Schmidt Converter:59USD (Its Regular Price is 74USD).Kindly avail this Offer Price for this Excellent Pen You can upgrade it with German Bock/Jowo/Schmidt Screw in Nib and German Schmidt Converter. Up-gradation charges are mentioned in Google order form Colours : Premium Ebonites: ------------------------ P1. Solid Blue P2. Black/Yellow P3. Blue/Pink P5. Blue/White P6. Black/Red P7. Green/Yellow P8. Solid Pink P9. Blue/Green/Orange P11. Blue/White/Green/Orange P12. Orange/ Black P13. Green/Pale Pink P14. Blue/Pink/Pale Yellow P15 RED WOODGRAIN P18 PINK RED GREEN P19 Blue/Orange P20 GREY CREAM P21 Pink/Red Cream P22 Orange Cream P23 GREY RED CREAM Regular Ebonites ----------------------- R4. Black S1. Solid Forest Green with Black Specs S6.Forest Green - Teal Blue Ripple with Black Specs S9. Mustard Yellow - Black Ripple S10. Khaki - Bluish Black Ripple S12. Rose Red - Black Ripple S15. Rose Red - Forest Green Ripple S17. Rose Red - Mustard Yellow Ripple with Black Specs S20. Teal Blue - Orange Ripple S22. Solid Red with Black Specs S27 .Solid Teal with Black Specs S28. Solid Grass Green with Black Specs S29. Solid Military Green with Black Specs Finish :Polished Finish or Matte Finish Clip Option - 1. Gold Clip 2. White Clip 3. Clipless Cap Turn: It takes less than 1 turn to cap and uncap For C/C mechanism (with Schmidt K5 Converter) #6 Nib Options Nib Option: Ranga Extra Fine Nib - Chrome Tone ,Gold Tone,Dual Tone Ranga Fine Nib- Chrome Tone ,Gold Tone,Dual Tone Ranga Medium Nib- Chrome Tone ,Gold Tone,Dual Tone Ranga Broad Nib- Chrome Tone ,Gold Tone,Dual Tone Ranga Double Broad Nib:Chrome Tone ,Gold Tone,Dual Tone Ranga Flex: Chrome Tone ,Gold Tone,Dual Tone Ranga 14K Nib # 6 Size Nibs:- Extra Fine, Fine Point, Medium Point ,Broad Point, Flex Bock Titanium #6 nibs: Fine Point, Broad Point, Double Broad Point Bock 18K Nib # 6 Size Nibs:- Extra Fine, Fine Point, Medium Point ,Broad Point, JoWo Fine Nib - Chrome Tone or Gold Tone JoWo Medium Nib - Chrome Tone or Gold Tone JoWo Broad Nib - Chrome Tone or Gold Tone JoWo 1.1 Calligraphy Nib - Chrome Tone or Gold Tone JoWo 1.5 Calligraphy Nib - Chrome Tone or Gold Tone Schmidt Fine Nib - Gold Tone or Chrome Tone Schmidt Medium Nib - Gold Tone or Chrome Tone Schmidt Broad Nib - Gold Tone or Chrome Tone No Nib - Threaded for Bock #6 No Nib - Threaded for JoWo #6 No Nib - Threaded for Schmidt #6 Price : Premium Ebonite with Ranga Nib and German Schmidt Converter: 74USD (Its Regular Price is 89USD). Regular Ebonite with Ranga Nib and German Schmidt Converter:59USD (Its Regular Price is 74USD). Customer's can upgrade it to their favourite nibs with extra charge Making Time : 2-3 weeks from payment date Shipping: Via Courier . It takes 4 to 9 days.Via Courier- Kindly note that courier rates are very high now. We are happy to share that we are collecting only 50% of the courier charges and rest is incurred by us . Customer's need to pay 15USD for USA/Canada, 10USD for Central Europe /Singapore/ Malaysia and country specific rates for other countries. Payment Details: Paypal id: mpkandan@gmail.com Regards, Kandan.M.P Ranga Pen Company

Just bought this 1940's? vintage Waterman, trying to identify it as it doesn't have a model number. It is double ring and dark green and the nib is a fairly generic one, semi flex (no telltale W for instance or Ideal). It's dark green/olive. So far my research has narrowed it down to: 502/503/513 - I thought the closest is 502, but they don't seem to have the metal lever box and clip is slightly different, 513 is very similar - some 513s have a metal lever box and some don't - but the clip is different. W2/W3/W5 - W2 doesn't have a metal lever box as far as I can see from pics online, neither seems to W3. W5 has a metal lever box, but tends to be fancier and have different rings. Ruled out: It is a lot like a Commando especially the clip, perfect match - but it doesn't have the lucite 'end plug' and that didn't come in green according to Richard Binder? http://www.richardspens.com/ref/profiles/commando.htm I guess it is possible that this is a Commando top on another pen? The colours all match perfectly though, why I suspect it hasn't faded/darkened because it's uniform. Dauntless/Starlet/Stalwart - the end of the body is rounded, not flattish like these. I have found a few others sold who sold exactly the same pen, they were unsure what they were as well - listing it as a Commando (I think I have ruled that out or unmarked 502- http://greenfineused.com/gorgeous_waterman_pen_dark_green_full_flex_14k_fine_nib_england.html and https://tommyspens.blogspot.com/2012/12/waterman-commando-in-green-made-in.html So Waterman detectives - what is it?

Would anyone know if Robert Oster inks are safe to use in a Parker Vacuumatic. I recently bought a Debutante with a lock-down filler and was wondering if Robert Oster inks (am considering Smokescreen, specifically) are safe to use. According to the maker, his inks tend to be more alkaline than acidic, but he cannot say definitively if the ink is safe to use on the Vacuumatic or other vintage pens.

Hi everyone, I have been a member awhile and I thank everyone here for all the posts they place ,for they have been a great help to me. This is my first post so please forgive me if I make any mistakes. I need and identification on a fountain pen, I will place the pictures which the seller has forwarded to me . If any one has any idea it would be greatly appreciated. I must add on the metal part of the nib section it is carved PRESDENT(top) and the word STELL (below) . On the barrel also the word UNIONE is clearly visible. Thank you all

Might anyone be able to identify the manufacturer and/or brand of this vintage nib? It is a “donor” nib that was fitted on one of my pens by Guillaume Chappuis of watchandwrite.com. Guillaume believes it’s of Italian origin but does not know more. It is one of my favourite writers, with quite a bit of flex and a medium fine tip that gives just the right amount of feedback. Thank you.

Might anyone be able to identify the manufacturer and/or brand of this vintage nib? It is a “donor” nib that was fitted on one of my pens by Guillaume Chappuis of watchandwrite.com. Guillaume believes it’s of Italian origin but does not know more. It is one of my favourite writers, with quite a bit of flex and a medium fine tip that gives just the right amount of feedback. Thank you.

The original Platinum Higo Zogan was an impulse buy on Ebay. There isn't much information on this pen, but I do know that one blogger (Phthalo) said she enjoyed how this pen writes. I also know that Platinum currently makes a 3776 with a similar higo zogan ring around the cap. Appearance and Design At first glance, this pen is reminiscent of the Lamy 2000 in both shape and feel, but with a Japanese flair. The matte black resin body reminds me of Makrolon but with slightly less of a brushed texture. Its 18K gold nib that looks very similar to that of the Platinum Pocket Pen and other 1970s era Platinum Pens as well as the Platinum Desk Pen. I must say that I’m a fan of the clear vintage era Platinum feeds, especially the clear blue ones found on the Platinum Pocket Pen. This one has a clear black feed. Instead of having the barrel transition seamlessly into the section like on the Lamy 2000, there is a clearly defined ridge that makes it more comfortable for me to hold. The cap includes an understated and beautiful higo zogan ring made of iron and gold formed into the shape of cherry blossoms. The gold mirror polished clip is also reminiscent to that of the Lamy 2000 in form. I have to say that I prefer the brushed clip on the Lamy. Mirror polish or gold plating doesn’t seem to last in my experience. Construction & Quality It’s easy to tell that the Platinum Higo Zogan is a high-quality item. While the plastic and metal parts feel thin, there is a certain presence to the pen when you hold it. Since I’ve only had this pen for about a week, I can’t speak much about its durability. However, given that the pen has went through one full cartridge of ink in the 1970s, and looks practically new after 50 years, I have high hopes for this piece. Weight and Dimensions This pen is relatively large and about the same size as the Lamy 2000. Despite its size, it’s also relatively light, and lighter than the Lamy. Since this pen has a clearly defined section unlike on the Lamy, its additional reference points allow your hands to find a consistent grip on the pen. If you’re like me and you like girthier pens, whether your have large or small hands (like I do), you might like this one. Nib & Performance The 18K gold fine nib is springy and a light touch allows it to float away from the feed. It kind of reminds me of a well-tuned and delicate suspension system. I would not call this a flex nib at all, though it does provide for a tiny bit of line variation. The kanji translates to “Fine Text,” and I have seen other versions of this pen with kanji that reads “Fine Soft.” I would imagine that the Fine Soft version is even springier. I purchased a Platinum Pocket Pen with what I believe to be the same nib but in Fine Soft and I’ll see how it performs and whether they’re interchangeable. This nib is likely equivalent to a modern Platinum F nib. It writes quite wet with J. Herbin Perle Noire and does not skip at all (after I cleaned the feed). The tip provides some feedback as you write, but it's a pleasurable(?) responsive feedback. I’ve found that for a person like me who has a habit of rushing when they write, having some nib feedback encourages me to slow down and focus more on the rhythm of writing. Take my opinion on the nib with a grain of salt because I have never owned another pen with a Japanese gold nib. Filling System & Maintenance The Platinum is a cartridge converter that comes with an "Aerometric" style squeeze-converter; however, since this pen lacks a breather tube, it has trouble taking advantage of what little real estate the sac provides. The stock converter does not fill to satisfaction. I have since switched out the stock squeeze-converter in favor of a modern Platinum piston converter. In addition to having increased ink capacity the gold trim of the modern converter better suits the aesthetics of this very modern looking piece. A part of me wishes that this pen had an integrated piston mechanism instead. There is a lot of real estate in the barrel for ink. Taking apart this pen is very much like taking apart the modern Platinum desk pen. I wouldn’t say it’s too difficult. It was tricky at first since the parts are tightly fitted together. I was actually afraid that a previous owner superglued the pen shut. Luckily, that was not the case. It became easier to disassemble after the first time. I had to clean the pen because it wasn’t feeding from the converter to the feed. After deep cleaning the feed, the pen worked perfectly. Cost & Value For $99 on Ebay, I think this pen was a steal. According to the Platinum website, this pen sold for 8,000 yen in 1970. That is the equivalent to around 27,000 yen ($260.00) today. If we’re evaluating this pen purely for performance, there are many less expensive options that will do the same job. But I do believe that there is value in traditional craftsmanship and I would like to say the pen was worth it. I have never written with a pen that has fit my relatively small hands better than this one. Additional Notes I would post side by side photos with the Lamy 2000, but I have already gifted it to a friend. I also would like to get an experienced 3776 owner to do an A/B. I also want to see if the nib is interchangeable with an 18K Fine Soft nib from a Platinum Pocket Pen with the diamond inlay. Would you folks recommend that I don’t swap out the nibs?

I like celluloid, Omas, vintage (and of course modern too)... For a long time I resisted getting a vintage Omas Cracked Ice. The combination of the rare pattern and vintage Omas makes it quite expensive to acquire a senior sized or even a mid sized Omas Cracked Ice. I also have a vintage Conway Stewart Cracked Ice, which is considered one of the most attractive Conway Stewart patterns (along with Herringbone, Tiger Eye etc). So I convinced myself that I didn't need an Omas Cracked Ice. That is until the right moment came. Recently I was able to acquire a vintage Omas Cracked Ice in the lady/ring-top size. As I understand, the Omas is made of celluloid (cellulose nitrate) and Conway Stewart of cellulose acetate. Here I made some photographic comparisons. Some background notes: The Omas Cracked Ice pattern is known for discolouration. Most of the pens in this pattern are found in various discolouration on the barrel. Zero discolouration is extremely rare, as this celluloid (and indeed any "trasparente" patterns) is very sensitive to acidic ink. So my Omas is no exception, though I consider the discolouration here modest. I have seen better and some worse. 1. Both pens capped. Omas ring-top, 10cm long. Conway Stewart No. 24, 13.2cm long. 2. Nib side pattern comparison. 3. Feed side pattern comparison. 4. Omas nib side discolouration. 5. Omas feed side discolouration comparison. 6. Conway Stewart Cracked Ice cap and barrel, in cellulose acetate, no discolouration. 7. The "dark sides" of Omas Cracked Ice: Similar to the Arco pattern, the Omas Cracked Ice also has two "dark sides". This is what I love about this Omas version, that you can see that the Cracked Ice is revealed through cross-cutting the pearl like flakes in the celluloid, much like leaves in a pond! These "dark sides" are more intriquing than those of Arco in this aspect. I hope you find the above informative! I've always enjoyed handling a vintage 🙂.

Sadly my lovely new vintage Pilot in clear and purple celluloid has developed a distinctly acidic smell in the cap, which is lingering a touch on the barrel. Is there any immediate treatment I can do to stop the positive reinforcement cycle of degredation+acid? How about longer term? My plan at the moment: gentle soap and water, clean and isolate cap from everything else celluloid in darkness with ventilation. I am also going to order some of those absorptive archival papers.

Hi, this vintage Pilot is pretty neat but the celluloid shrinkage has the cap threads mostly impossible to engage and impossible to secure as they run off the end. It is a functioning Japanese eyedropper (original packing cork) with an ebonite section which screws in and seals well so expanding the barrel doesn’t seem like the best option. The cap band is also loose, but the cap and barrel threads meeting is my primary concern. The barrel has nearly a mm of shrinkage apparent at the size decrease where the cap sits. Does anyone have any recommendations? It is such an interesting half-transparent pale purple and clear celluloid with hardly any yellowing I’d love to get it capping and writing again! Cheers!

A recent thread got me thinking of examples of successful modern relaunches of vintage iconic fountain pen models. The related thread is: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/355785-a-new-139-its-a-no-brainer-or-is-it/ Thank you, zaddick, for provoking my thoughts. I am talking about the near replicas and unmistakeable throwbacks to their original vintage models with same name and style. Here are the ones that quickly came to my mind: 1. Parker Duofold Big Red; 2. Aurora Internazionale; 3. Pelikan 100N; 4. Omas Gentleman; 5. Conway Stewart No.58 and No.100; 6. Onoto Magna. What are others that you can think of? I hope you enjoy this topic. My apologies if this has been discussed elsewhere on FPN.

Hi FPN, A little while ago, I managed a great deal on a vintage Kaweco V12 and 619 set from around 1965. It was a bit of a risk, bought it on eBay with only one picture so didn't really know what condition it was in. Fortunately, it arrived and when I started to clean it and take it apart it turned out to be in VERY good condition and needing nothing other than a cleaning and some silicon grease. I've done a review of the pens here. However, between winning the auction and getting the pen, I was looking online on how to restore them, I was worried it had a cork piston seal, I couldn't find much. When I couldn't find one, I thought I would take some pictures of the steps as I did it to my new pen, so here's a quite guide on how to take apart a Kaweco V12 and what the parts look like. To start things off, here's a picture of the pens and the case as they arrived. The first thing I did was soak the pen in some deionized water for a few hours, pulling it out of the water to let the water inside the pen drain out and then refill the pen. This washed out virtually all of the ink, which turned the water blue likely meaning it was a washable blue ink that was in it. After the water coming out of the pen stayed clear, I used some nylon pliers to pull out the nib and feed from the pen, which come out as shown below. They just pull straight out, if they don't come out easily, I'd suggest soaking in some soapy water maybe then applying a little dry heat (not too much, the pen is celluloid). The nib may come out by itself without the feed, if that happens just pull the feed out with some rubber tipped pliers. Once removed, this is what the nib and feed look like. They can/should be soaked by themselves in clean water just to make sure everything comes off them, could even give them a gentle brush with a toothbrush to make sure. While I was soaking the nib unit, I started on the piston. On the pen, the seal and piston had come loose from the nob and twisting the nob at the back didn't do anything to the piston, which had me a little worried. When I was looking at the threads, i thought they looked a lot like the threads on a Parker Vacuumatic, which I have the tools to remove. So I grabbed that and it was a match. However, as soon as the unit started to unscrew, I realized that using section pliers are a better option. You can see from the photo below, that the piston unscrews from the barrel of the pen at the metal o-ring rather than at the nob. This means that the piston forms part of the barrel at the top of the pen. This makes using section pliers on the back end of the pen the best option for removing it. My pen didn't have any shellac, but I can see some pens might, so not a bad idea to apply a little dry heat, again, not too much. (this photo is actually from putting the pen back together, that's why the piston isn't sitting in the ink window). Once out, I could see why the piston had come loose from the nob. It's different from the TWSBI piston units as there's a screw that's attached to the nob which fits into a threaded hole inside the piston. There is a square hole in the nob piece which the piston fits into to stop it from rotating and the nob turns a screw which extends or retracts the piston. The below shows the pen fully disassembled. To reassemble the pen, I started with the piston. I put silicon grease on the seal to fill the notch and all along the sides of the seal. I also put grease into the hole in the nob unit, on the outside of the piston shaft, and on the threads that screw into the barrel. I then put the piston into the nob unit and fully retracted the piston. I then screwed the piston unit into the barrel of the pen. I only finger tightened the piston unit as I didn't want to crack the barrel of the pen and was confident it wasn't going to come loose. I wouldn't recommend using section pliers to screw it in as you might over tighten and crack the barrel. You could apply some shellac to the threads to keep it in place, but I didn't want to and the fit is good enough on my pen that I wasn't too worried. The pen is much easier to thoroughly clean if I can remove the piston. It was then just a matter of putting the nib back onto the feed and sliding it into the pen. It goes in smoothly and there is a final little bump you can feel it go over telling you it's in there securely. Because of how the nib fits onto the section, it's very difficult for it to be misaligned, but always worth a check as once on the pen it's difficult. After putting it all back together I tested the piston with some water and it worked great, so inked it up and gave it a test and been very happy ever since. For the 619 ballpoint, the pen came with a refill in it, fortunately, but it had long dried out. I was able to find out that the Schneider 75M refills fit the pen and ordered one black and one blue. To remove the refill, the front of the pen simply unscrews. As you might be able to tell in that photo, the Schneider refills are a little too long for the pen and need to be cut down slightly. I used the refill that came in the pen to get the correct size, unfortunately I don't know the length of what I cut off, but it's around a half inch I think. There was a bit of foam in the piece of the refill that I had to cut off, so I pushed it out and put it back into the back end of the refill to stop it from drying out. I then rounded off the corners a bit and put it into the pen. Worked great and writes very well. The click mechanism is a bit unique. To extend the pen, you push the button down halfway and it will stay there with the pen extended for use. To retract it, push the button the rest of the way and it will go back in. This means if you push the button all the way down in one go, it will extend then retract the pen in one push. This took me a couple of tries to figure out and I think would catch your typical ballpoint user off guard, they are likely to think it broken so if you let someone borrow the pen, best to explain. You can see in the below, the pen extended and the button half pushed. Hope that was useful to someone and if you get a chance to get one of these pens, I'd highly recommend it, they look to be very low maintenance and rather easy to restore if there aren't any broken pieces. Again, you can read my review of the two pens here.

Hello After I got a couple of Sheaffer Balance a few days ago I had a hot conversation with a friend talking about - when can we name a pen as (vintage)!? and which aspect is more important!? time (how long), availability, quality ......etc Thank you for sharing us your opinions H1N

I'm not really sure where I should put this post, so please let me know if it's supposed to live somewhere else. I have decided that I want to go hunting for vintage flex. A little background information... (actually it turned out to be more than a little) I have 2 (useable) vintage fountain pens. A Conway Stewart Universal Pen from the late 1930s, and a Parker 51 Aerometric from the late 1950s. The majority of my 'flex' experience is in using dip pens, and I have been using them for journaling and the occasional attempt at everyday writing with them for the past 3 and a half-ish years, so I would say that I am reasonably experienced in the (?)art(?) of using flexible nibs. So why do I want to get a vintage flex pen? I have discovered (an odd century or 2 too late) that using dip pens, while extremely versatile, aren't exactly convenient, portable (one accident with a bottle of ink in my bag was enough to let me understand) nor very durable, with the untipped points soon wearing out. As such I believe that what would best suit me is an antique or vintage fountain pen. What I would like in the pen I am looking for: a very fine point (line variation of sorts needs to start somewhere) Preferably from the 1920s and earlier? I'm not going to be mashing it out to 2mm for every letter and downstroke so you can rest easy regarding spring the nib. If I wanted to mash my nibs I've got plenty of dip pens to do that. I'm (probably) not going to do calligraphy with them. Again, I have dip pens. Yet I still want a super flex/wet noodle/ whatever name you want to call it. but not to mash. I fine with doing a little bit of work on them if necessary eg, replacing a sac or a j-bar for lever fillers, oe cleaning them out or whatever) Now my question is: where do you recommend I actually go looking for these? Do I go on eBay? Do I go to antique shops (although to be honest most of the antique shops in my area probably won't have these as we didn't have companies that made these here. Most are probably old imports)? How much should my cut-off price point be? I don't want to be overcharged by sellers who know what they are doing, so what's a reasonable price? Please let me know your recommendations, tips and thoughts.

Hi there everybody! For those of you who know your Sheaffer pens I could really use some knowledge here. My mother has had these 2 mechanical pencils forever now & has been asking me to get information on them & to possibly sell them for years. I finally attempted to do just that for her but it turns out that I had underestimated the Sheaffer company completely. I've found myself certain on a specific model just to find myself back to confusion after descriptions/other models. The 2 pencils to begin with are not of the same set- they both most likely belong to different fountain pens? Underneath the gold band on both of them you can pull that bottom cap off to expose the eraser/lead or twist it to get more lead. I do see that one is "350" and the other "400" but I've only had luck with "white dot" or "military clip" that seem to bump up the price. I believe they may have been paired with a white dot but neither have military clips. They are both celluloid I believe. The smaller/shorter pencil (picture 1+2) I am guessing is pearl black or brown & feels a bit fatter. The longer one (picture 3+4) seems to be marine green. They are kept inside a Sheaffer case that, to me, seems older. It may sound odd but I can just tell by the smell of the inside, hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about. Can anyone on here kindly give me any information and/or an estimate if we were to possibly sell these? I'm a pen lover myself so the thought of selling these kills me but my mother is now ill so I am praying these may help.

I had posted this thread a few days ago in a different area of FPN. Perhaps best in Regional Forum under Italian pens. Would appreciate if anyone has seen this kind of nib imprint and knows what it is. Many thanks!! ---------- I had the pleasure of seeing a very nice vintage fountain pen during a recent dinner with a friend. The pen belonged to the his late grandfather. It is an Omas Extra lever filler with marbled brown celluloid. I love looking at any vintage pens, and noticed that the nib is not the usual Omas vintage nib. It has a kind of sheep(?) imprint on the nib with "14K-585" and "OSMIUM" on it. I didn't write with it, but I tried on my thumb nail and it feels very soft and flexible, a typical wonderful vintage nib of that era. With the permission of my friend, I posted the photos of this pen in the hope that someone might know what this interesting-looking replacement nib is. Many thanks!! By the way, I had offered to restore (lever is stuck and also needs new sac for sure) and polish this pen for my friend, but he doesn't want. Nib is patinated but he doesn't want to get it polished either. He wants to leave the pen as how it was when he received it, and only uses it as a dip pen. I understand.

I recently bought this 100N with an unusually ornate clip. The diamond-shaped end of the clip seems to point to a "Danzig" model. On the top of the cap is written "Pelikan Günter Wagner". I've seen "Danzig" models before but never with such a clip. I hope the Pelikan experts can tell me more about this interesting pen. Happy New Year!

Need help identifying this pen please! Than you in advance. Also, if someone could tell me if 180 euros is a good price for one, be my guest! Cheers

By way of context... ...my girlfriend likes to do crosswords, and she has a habit of holding the pen with the cap off while she thinks. In the interest of getting her a pen that won't dry out, I've been on a Parker 51 style hooded-nib kick. I figured I'd get a cheap knock off or two for her to try so she could see if she likes that style. So a few days ago I bid on one of those "loose pen" lots from an eBay auction. Six pens for $15 is a pretty good day, any way you cut it. The first four pens where various HERO 616 / Jinhao 51A style pens, which was what I was after. The fifth pen was some kind of strange looking un-marked blingy pen with a standard Chinese #6 nib / feed combo (Iridium Point stamp, the feed looks identical with what you find in a Jinhao 159). But that's a story for another day, because the sixth pen... Well the sixth pen was this one: It seems to be a '60s or '70s vintage Pilot Lady Pocket pen. This one has a hooded nib, which is different from the pictures of similar pens I've found online. Even the steel nib versions of these pens from the '80s seem to be going for $20 - $30, and I have a kind of reluctant and excited hope that this is the 14k version! Since I spent roughly $4, I kind of feel like I made out like a bandit. I cleaned it off (using just soap and water) and flushed a lot of partly dried blue ink out of the collector. The finish on the exterior (the flowers and so on) is a bit pitted and scuffed - clearly the pen has had a life of use - but the nib itself seems to be as good as new. No pitting or scratches, and I barely had to realign it. I have a couple of questions: First: Information about this particular sort of pen seems to be thin on the internet. Does anyone know of a site, or someone who collects these pocket pens, who might have more pictures / information about the line? Second: When I opened it up, an o-ring fell out. It seems to be working just fine without the o-ring (I put a CON-20 in), but I wonder where the o-ring is really supposed to go? I haven't tried too hard to disassemble the pen, because it seems like a nice pen and I don't want to mess it up. I'm concerned that the nib/feed are glued in. - N

Just gifted myself this beautiful set of Imperial VIII fountain pen and pencil, complete with original box. Found them for sale in an old Mom & Pop stationary store that also happens to sell old ballpoints, pencils and fountain pens in varying states of conservation. Both are in excellent cosmetic and mechanical condition, but the pen needs a new sac. Not sure about the nib width, but looks like a Medium. The best, I got them for just $35! I always thought these Imperials were a bit thicker than all the other Sheaffer pens I own, but this pen seems to be the exact same width and length as my Imperial II TD with the short Triumph (Skripsert) nib. Anyone has any idea of what kind of sacs do I need for both, the Imperial VIII and the Imperial II? Also, is the PFM thicker than this one?

Hello, I would like to ask the members if someone among the Onoto experts can help me to identify this model. It is a great writer and I would like to know more about its history. (It is written on the barrel: Patent Self filling) Thank you, F.

Hello everybody! =) I write you all this message because I would need a bit of help - I got two Waterman fountain pen (I guess it is waterman as it is written on the nib), which I think are pretty old because I got them from my grandfather who used to buy many various fountain pens in second-hand. I absolutely LOVE them as they are EXACTLY the kind of touch/feedback I was looking for two years ago. Even thiner and even more flexible than my usual Platinum Century 3776 SF that I always use (special renewed thanks to the members who helped me then advising me to buy this pen by the way ) ; they are just GREAT. The problem I have is that I have no idea what they exactly are - I love fountain pens but know very few about them. So could one of you please help me identify them and tell me how I must take care of these new babies in order not to do any damage? (I will attach below, for both the pens, some photos and three links towards youtube unreferenced videos) The only clues I have are the following ones: - The inscription on the nib: "WATERMAN'S IDEAL | REG. U.S. | PAT. OFF" (Identical on both pens) - They probably works with a plunger (the little round thing on the side?) on which is engraved "Ideal" (have no idea about how a plunger pen works!) (identical on both pens) - They are probably old for the reason I wrote above, also because they have no clip on the cap (my father told me this occured only with old pens) - They are extremely pretty!! No relation with some other plastic fountain pens I could find in my grandfather's collection! - They both have flexible nibs. If you have any indication or information to give me, I would be extremely grateful!! I know that vintage flexible fountain pens are usually the best, I heard about the Waterman's ones, so when I saw these two pens I immediately tried their nibs (and loved them), though, I have no clue about their identity, nor their age. I also would like to ask how I could clean them entirely - I've been testing them just diving the nib in my usual Monteverde inks and removing gently the rest of ink with a cloth after use (I didn't mix the inks by the way, always removed the rest of the previous ink before testing another). I love them so much I would be horrified to harm them. I passed the nib of the smaller one under cold water to remove the ink I had used the first time, and could guess there was a rest of some blue ink inside (that doesn't appear when I'm writing though). I know I must not mix some inks with each others, in order not to clog the pen; is there any way I can clean these pens? Generally, can I use them with my Monteverde inks in the future? Is there anything special I should absolutely know about fountain pen care in this case? Could someone also explain me how a plunger fountain pen usually works...? The long pen also seems to have feed issues if I compare it to the small one, which feed "follows" me wathever I do (my favourite from the two, although the nibs seem identical). Below links and pictures. Thanks to all!! =) Photos on google drive (otherwise the display is not adapted): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12CtU2lKJjWmmb_CksVZynFBcyM5Te0UP?usp=sharing Links toward youtube: => => => (Sorry for the poor quality of the videos and the fact it is twisted, with no experience neither professionality and only one hand available I couldn't do anything better ^^ x) ) Inks used: Monteverde, Sapphire for the small one and Rose Noir for the long one. Thanks again! =)