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  1. Now available at Pen Boutique the red and black bamboo vanishing points!
  2. Hi all, I wonder if one of the nibs is thinner than the other. I have VP with fine nib and Penmanship with extra fine nib. It seems the fine nib of VP is little a bit thicker than the extra fine nib of Penmanship. I like the nib size of extra fine in Penmanship and the retractable mechanism of VP. Thus, I am thinking to purchase extra fine nib for my VP, but I’m not sure if the nib size of VP ef is thinner, thicker, or same compared to the nib size of Penmanship ef. If anyone has both pens with ef nibs or experiences with these nibs, please give me some feedback. Thanks in advance.
  3. Hi, I have some questions about the smoothness and fineness of nibs between Pilot Vanishing Point and Pilot Custom Heritage 92/Custom 74. I have Pilot Decimo with a fine nib and I like the smoothness and fineness of this nib, but it is little heavy for long writing. While I was searching for a smooth, lightweight, and fine fountain pen for long writing, someone has recommended me Pilot Custom Heritage 92. I see it has pretty good reputation in this forum. Thus, I would like to know more about the nibs of this pen. As I said, I like the fineness and smoothness of my Decimo fine nib. How is Pilot Custom Heritage 92 nib like comparing to Decimo nib? I see they have F, FM, M, and B nibs. I wonder if I should get F nib or FM nib for Pilot Custom Heritage 92. Also, is there any place to purchase Pilot #5 nib separately? I am asking this in case that I may not like the nib I order, and I am also interested in trying SF nib. Thanks,
  4. Hi, After researching for my next fountain pen for long time, I have decided to get Pilot Decimo Dark Grey EX. However, one of the Japanese sellers that I contacted said that there is no Dark Grey with EX nib. I wonder if this is true. Is there anyone who knows a seller who sells Pilot Decimo Dark Grey with EX nib? I have checked Amazon, eBay, jetpens, and other websites but couldn't find it. Also, I see that some posts say Pilot VP nib and Pilot Decimo nib are interchangeable, and some other posts say that some adjustment should be done for Pilot VP nib to be used in Pilot Decimo. I wonder if there is anyone who has had this experience of swapping nibs between VP and Decimo. I am asking this in case there is no Decimo Dark Grey with EX, I would probably buy Decimo Dark Grey with F nib and purchase a EX nib separately. (I have seen there is VP EX nib sold online, but never seen Decimo EX nib sold online.) Thanks,
  5. So here is my second pen review, again hand written. Summary: Pros - Impressive box, light weight, well engineered design and smooth. Cons - Pen does not look or feel high end, and it may not initially be apparent why the pen costs as much as it does, can be too wet leading to bleed through. http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/image.php?id=rk77k&f=1 Click to view full size! http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/image.php?id=yypgp&f=1 Click to view full size! http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/image.php?id=mjg68&f=1 Click to view full size! http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/image.php?id=shayc&f=1 Click to view full size! http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/image.php?id=tiqz5&f=1 Click to view full size! http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/image.php?id=umhoo&f=1 Click to view full size! http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/image.php?id=jaocz&f=1 Click to view full size!
  6. I had mixed feelings about this one originally. I really liked the idea of a vanishing point and the hood feature, but I was unsure about the clip being placed where I hold the instrument. I was afraid it would feel awkward but instead it ended up allowing me to hold it with a little more control. Aesthetics: I like the look of this pen even though it seems reversed with the clip being where it is. In this case the metallic copper red with the black trim definitely drew my attention. An 8 out of 10 Build: The construction of this writing instrument seems very sleek, sound, and the hood portion built in to protect the nib from all sorts of drops or mishandlings seems to be a very innovative idea. An 8 out of 10 Balance: The weight is decent. Not too heavy and not too light for my tastes. I also like that the clip did not really add any extra weight to the barrel. An 8 out of 10 Nib: I tried a broad nib while giving this a test run. I had not yet used a broad nib but it seemed closer to a medium to me. The durability of it seems and feels sound. A 7 out of 10 Maintenance: You can use either a cartridge or a converter as your ink dispenser. Personal preference comes in to play in that regard but cleaning the nib itself seems easy enough. The nib is smaller due to the hood feature but I was able to clean it without any issues arising. A 9 out of 10 Cost: The price tag is around the $175.00 mark which I do not have any issue with. Seems like a fair price for a writing instrument that I truly enjoyed and had no true problems with. A 7 out of 10 Total: 47 out of 60
  7. [Cross-posted from Nibs and Tines forum - with apologies to anyone reading this twice! I have a question for those of you who have a longer history with the Pilot Vanishing Point - please excuse me if I'm posting this in the wrong place! I bought a matte black Pilot Vanishing Point sometime last year (back when the Australian dollar was worth something ), with a black-coated gold Fine nib. The pen wrote really smoothly, but laid a finer, drier line than is my preference. To cut a long story short, the pen took a 'nosedive' off my son's lap about a month ago, and landed nib first on a wooden floor. The two Aussie nib technicians I've spoken to feel it wouldn't be worth my while (in terms of cost) to repair the nib, so I'm looking at replacing it. So here's the question: I can buy a replacement nib (with converter) for around US$60 plus postage - that's an 18K nib, black or rhodium coated. Or I can buy a older-style 14K nib (no converter) from Anderson Pens for $50. Is it worth the cost saving, if I don't mind my matte black pen having a gold coloured nib? The 14K nibs are only available in F or B - I'd probably buy the F if I head down this direction, but am wondering: is there a significant difference between the 14K and 18K fine in terms of smoothness, wetness, line width, performance that might favour one over the other? If you've written with both, do you have a preference for one or the other - and if so, why? I know the 14K nibs were designed for the US / European (?) market - and that they've now been discontinued. Beyond that I'm completely in the dark. Any help / advice / information that might help me make a decision would be very much appreciated. [Edited to correct a typo...]
  8. I have a question for those of you who have a longer history with the Pilot Vanishing Point - please excuse me if I'm posting this in the wrong place! I bought a matte black Pilot Vanishing Point sometime last year (back when the Australian dollar was worth something ), with a black-coated gold Fine nib. The pen wrote really smoothly, but laid a finer, drier line than is my preference. To cut a long story short, the pen took a 'nosedive' off my son's lap about a month ago, and landed nib first on a wooden floor. The two Aussie nib technicians I've spoken to feel it wouldn't be worth my while (in terms of cost) to repair the nib, so I'm looking a replacing it. So here's the question: I can buy a replacement nib (with converter) for around US$60 plus postage - that's an 18K nib, black or rhodium coated. Or I can buy a older-style 14K nib (no converter) from Anderson Pens for $50. Is it worth the cost saving, if I don't mind my matte black pen having a gold coloured nib? The 14K nibs are only available in F or B - I'd probably buy the F if I head down this direction, but am wondering: is there a significant difference between the 14K and 18K fine in terms of smoothness, wetness, line width, performance that might favour one over the other? If you've written with both, do you have a preference for one or the other - and if so, why? I know the 14K nibs were designed for the US / European (?) market - and that they've now been discontinued. Beyond that I'm completely in the dark. Any help / advice / information that might help me make a decision would be very much appreciated.
  9. Hello everyone, This is my first thread after having stalked the forum anonymously for quite some time. I'm buying a Pilot VP Decimo for note-taking in classes, and in the near future, at work. It will be an upgrade from a Sheaffer 100 with M nib as my second, more serious pen. (No grip problem for me) The questions are: 1. M or F nib: a line comparison from someone with Sheaffer M is appreciated, I will be writing a lot of mathematical equations on normal to poor quality paper. I'm leaning to F. 2. How glossy is the gray one: I prefer matted texture but if the glossiness is not really pronounced, it's acceptable. 3. Work condition: how well would the pen fare in a somewhat extreme environment, say, an oil rig in the middle east. 4. Ink: Parker Quink, Sheaffer Skrip, Sailor, and Waterman inks are readily available in my region. I have heard that only some inks work well with the pen. My preference: Blue, smoothness, some permanency. I have used Skrip Black to some degree of success, and I'd be pleased if the blue one works well. 5. Shop: Is j-subculture.com good? This deal looks really good: http://shop.j-subculture.com/items/detail/FEE0AEAC0BE27F1. If not, is there any recommendations? (Shipping to Asia) Thank you all in advance and sorry for any grammatical errors (I'm not a native user) Saran W.
  10. Last year Brian Goulet received a question for his Q&A Blog asking how can spare nibs for the Pilot Vanishing Point be kept inked without drying out so the user can switch back and forth between nibs quickly. This got me to thinking. I found some people who used empty Pilot cartridges as caps. I tried this, it works, but the empty cartridge makes the capped nib assembly longer than I like. My Pilot cartridges have internal ribs that keep them from sealing on the nib assembly if more than 1/4 inch is cut off them. I worked out a simple hack to seal up my spare Vanishing Point nibs airtight so they can be kept inked and allowing switching nibs without having to flush and fill a new converter or cartridge. The airtight seal: I keep polymer pipettes from Goulet Pens on hand, they are so useful for transferring ink, filling eyedropper pens, and even used to fill Pilot cartridges. For this application I cut about 2 inches off the small end off of one pipette as shown here: Forming the seal to fit: The inside of the pipette is not round enough to provide a good seal with the cylindrical part of the assembly just behind the nib where it needs to seal. So I put hot water into a mug and held the large cut end in the hot water for 4 or 5 seconds to soften it. The water does not have to be boiling hot, just nice and warm. First I rubbed a bit of silicone grease on the surface behind the nib and slid the hot piece of pipette on the nib assembly and allowed it to cool in place. It can then be slipped off and should be perfectly round and a tight sliding fit on the shank behind the nib. Closing the open end: The tip of the pipette needs to be sealed closed. The polyethylene polymer melts easily. Dip the tip into hot water for a few seconds then press it closed. You can use a pair of pliers if they have fairly smooth faces. Or you can press them between two flat surfaces. Do this quickly before it cools down too much. Test for a complete seal. I suck on the open end and see if it holds a vacuum against my lips. If not, then reheat the tip and repeat. You can use a flame, but you have to be careful you don't melt it completely. Sometimes I have doubled the flattened tip when it was hot and pressed it closed again. Once the tip is sealed, it will close off the nib and feed airtight. I have let one of these sit inked up for several weeks on my desk. First I checked the nib after 24 hours: immediate ink flow. Then after a week: immediate ink flow. After 3 weeks, same thing. I believe it will sit unused for several months or longer without any start up problems. Finally: how to store these for transportation. If you will just keep these in a drawer or a simple container, the capped nib assemblies can be left as they are. But, you may want to transport them in a pen case or something else. You may need to protect the delicate nibs better than the soft poly cap. I bought my extra nibs from Goulet Pens and they come in very nice rigid airtight polycarbonate centrifuge tubes. I removed the bit of foam in the bottom of the tube and found that the poly cap, as I made them, will allow the capped nib assembly to fit inside these tubes precisely. Furthermore, the capped assembly is captured between the screw-on tube cap at one end and the tapered bottom at the other, being held with no loose play of any kind. If you want more protection a thin roll of foam can be wrapped around it to protect the capped nib assembly more securely from dropping or heavy impacts. I found virtually identical centrifuge tubes on Amazon at a very reasonable price. They can also hold 15 ml of ink too, quite leak-proof. A package of 10 sells for less than $10 from a US source: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033C9U26?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage . I have two Vanishing Point pens and five nib assemblies for them. Three nibs are sealed and kept in their centrifuge tubes in a pen case. The other two are in my pens. It is a simple procedure to take an inked nib out of its tube, slip off the cap, put it in the pen, recap the previous nib and put it in the storage tube. I have been doing this for nearly seven months with no problems. None of the stored nib assemblies have failed to write immediately, even after storage of two to three months between uses. I use the B and EF nibs fairly seldom, so they stay capped the longest. This system has worked very well for me. Warning: I was tempted to coat the inside of the cap with silicone grease to keep it sliding easily. But, it would be easy to brush the top of the nib against the inside of the cap before it is centered and seated in place. Silicone grease is very difficult to remove from surfaces, so I elected not to do this. In fact, I cleaned the opening out after forming the cap with a paper towel to prevent contamination of the nib. You want your nib and feed to be well wetted by ink, and silicone grease will prevent this. Best to play it safe.
  11. Hello all! I have a forest green Namiki Vanishing point pen. (the older, thinner , faceted barrel type) My push-button top has a crack and I need a new top. Anyone know where I can get one. Pen writes beautifully and would hate to have it rendered useless. Thanks, John B
  12. After discussions with a fellow fountain pen enthusiast about the problems with loose and spare nib units for Pilot/Namiki Vanishing Point/Capless pens a solution has been found. I was asked to assist with the design and testing of a custom made cap to fit over the end of the nib unit to protect it from damage, make them easier to transport, and keep them from rolling off tables. Many prototypes have been tested and now a final working product is available. Here are those caps in use: http://i.imgur.com/oDkM3hW.jpg They are available through my friend's Shapeways store: http://www.shapeways.com/designer/ArmillarySphere. They are 3D-printed with a Selective Laser Sintering machine and come in 2 varieties: smooth that match the diameter of the nib unit and fluted to keep the nib unit from rolling. I personally tested them on over 25 VP nib units and they fit every one made from the year 2000 to the present. Earlier nib units have more variation in diameter and fit can not be guaranteed. Check these out. I am glad to be able to help develop this useful VP accessory and I hope that others find as I useful as I do. Note that the 6 packs of caps available are printed together as one piece with small bridges of plastic connecting them together at the ends. This makes them much less expensive per unit. They will need to be cut apart and lightly sanded. The individual caps are ready to use as-is.
  13. I'm the very happy owner of a VP that came with a twist-style converter, and I've been using it for some months. When I got the pen, the converter was very firmly fastened in to the end of the nib and didn't want to come out, so I left it alone and have been writing and refilling with no problems. I recently had a reason to temporary put the converter on another Pilot pen, and to my surprise, it removed easily from the VP with just a light tug. It worked great in the Pilot, and now it's time to go back... ...except I can't figure out how to do it. There's something preventing the converter from seating all the way in, so it's just lightly resting inside the barrel of the nib assembly, instead of fitting snugly around the interior as I know Pilot carts and converters do. As it stands now, it's certainly not ink-tight. Is there some secret to re-attaching these that I don't know about? I'm thinking that whatever held the converter in place with such force back when the pen was new is now preventing the re-insertion. The converter is fine, and it's back on the other pen for the time being, where it fits fine and snugly. Any tips? Of course the business end of the converter is out of sight inside the nib unit, so I can't tell what's going on in there. I suspect gremlins.
  14. I am a new fountain pen user with only about two months of experience using fountain pens. I am looking to replace my Pilot Metropolitan whose nib was damaged beyond my ability to repair after it was dropped (capped, but the snap-cap was knocked loose by the impact). As I am very much enjoying fountain pen use, my indulgent side naturally saw this as an opportunity for an upgrade. The Pilot Vanishing Point seemed to fit my needs perfectly. My question to you, therefore, is, is [sic?] the Vanishing Point so much better a pen (nib, convenience, feel) than the Metropolitan that it is worth a price increase of $125 (10x the price)? I understand that the relation between price and pen is not linear, but as long as it is a noticeable improvement after writing the first few words, then I would count it as worth the price. As a side note, I am interested in the fine nib. If you have different standards for what "worth the price" means, please feel free to use them in your response. Of course, everyone's definition of noticeable is different. Thank you for your time and thought. Edit: I apologize for the typo in the title. Such is the effect of carelessness!
  15. meilinpo

    Pilot/ Namiki Nib

    I own a beautiful Pilot/ Namiki "Capless" Vanishing Point pen- it's a Decimo, which is slightly slimmer and lighter than the regular VP pens, but takes the same nib- and I LOVE it. I have heard that the nibs for these pens are not well standardized. A few weeks after getting my pen, I broke the nib and had to replace it (rather a costly accident, but nevertheless). The nib size of my pen was, and is, a Fine; but I notice the new nib does not write quite as fine a 'Fine' line as the previous, original nib did. I liked the thinner line (didn't want to go to "Extra Fine", because I thought an EF nib might be too delicate- requires a light hand,) Is there a way I can have the nib adjusted? Would it cost as much, or nearly, as buying a whole new nib again? Any thoughts? thanks! - M
  16. I was browsing Engeika and while trying to figure out the reasons for varied prices, I noticed the site was emphasizing that some particular models are "Made in Japan" and others [sold over here, I assume] aren't... which then led me to notice that the one's I'd been looking at via Amazon aren't marked Pilot Japan AFAIK. While it's not really a deal breaker by any means, I was wondering where are Vanishing Points sold here in the US manufactured...? Could it be that the barrels and/or nibs and feeds are being manufactured across various places and assembled somewhere else? Also, I heard some feedback here (I think) about US market Vanishing Point nib sizes performing closer to standard/western nibs, as opposed to what's typical for Pilot (running a size smaller). I have a 78g, Metropolitan, and Prera that are all Japanese "mediums" and a pleasure to use, but now I'm not sure whether or not I should order a VP in a fine or a medium... or does that also relate to which VP-market I'm buying from? Thanks in advance for any knowledge you might have, -NBM
  17. Tom Traubert

    Another Vp/capless Question

    Hi all. Me again. Had my Capless for a couple of days now and I've got a question about its appearance. The body is a dark yellow, stainless steel trim but the nib is gold. Is this combination normal? Also, the nib doesn't mention 18k anywhere, just Pilot <M> which looks legit and the number 612. I'm sure everything's kosher because it writes like a dream, just wanted to check.
  18. Aetheric Continua

    Pilot Vanishing Point <M> Vs Custom 823 <M>

    I've done some searching but couldn't quite find what I'm looking for. I recently purchased a VP with a Fine nib and it's just finer than I would like, so I'm planning on getting a Medium nib unit later in the month. Later in the year I'm hoping to get my hands on a Custom 823. Before I got my VP I was thinking about getting the 823 in a Fine but now I'm likely to go with the medium. Only thing is, from what I've read on the forums, Pilot's VP Medium writes rather similarly to a Western Medium and that there's no real happy medium. Is this the case with the 823? How does a VP Medium compare to a 823 Medium? Thanks in advance for any input
  19. CherryNubCakes

    What's Happening To My Black Vp Nib?

    I was cleaning out my matte black VP and I saw the shiny black metal plating has gone dull around the slit. Here are some pictures, in regular light and under an LED light. (Same images also attached to post) At first when the pen was inked, I just thought it was ink, but I couldn't wash or wipe it off. Is the finish/plating corroding/wearing off? Should I get the nib replaced?
  20. I own three VP's and love writing with them. They're just so ... practical. In my job as a consultant I do a lot of note taking/writing. Last week, after a busy day, my thumb felt a little sore: it felt almost as if a blister was beginning to form. I did not pay any attention to it and kind of wondered where this irritation (pain is too big a word) came from. On the second evening, my thumb was really hurting. Only then did I make the association with the writing I had been doing with the VP. I grabbed my pen and kind of checked out where this irritation came from. I found that it is not the clip that caused it, but the seam between the body and the nib section is the culprit. Mind you, I still love these pens, but for me they are not ideal for extended periods of intensive writing.
  21. Evening all, I am getting two new bottles of ink (Diamine Apple Glory and the 150th Diamine Anniversary Blue Velvet) for Christmas so I only thought it right to get one new pen to put my favourite of the two in! (got the Rohrer and Klingner glass dip pen for the other ink!) There are four (relatively inexpensive) pens I am looking at to take up the next berth in my collection. The Pilot Vanishing Point in the Blue Carbonesque finish, the Lamy 2000 and a Waterman Carene in either the amber finish or the Blue Obsession colour. To give you an idea of my preferences I currently have a black Waterman Carene (love it), a MB 146 (love it), a Pelikan m800 (love it), an Edison Collier (wish it had a wider grip section) and a Waterman Expert II (don't love it, don't hate it either). All the four options are pretty much the same price in the UK and I was wondering what everyone thought would be the best option? The Lamy 2000 has been raved about ever since time began but the design seems a bit too minimalist for my taste. The VP has also been reviewed well but I'm a bit concerned about the small ink capacity in the converter, I'm a student and I (try to) take a lot of notes every day. And I love my Carene and both the blue and amber finishes are stunning but I am thinking I should branch out a bit more! And if anyone has got an recommendations for another option for £100-150 then it would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Chris
  22. karlgozo

    Pilot Vanishing Point / Capless

    Hi, I have a Pilot Vanishing Point / Capless which I left on my work desk. Upon returning I found that the top part (basically the clip) was broken. I have been trying to find a replacement for this part, but I can't find online. Could anyone help me? Thanks Karl
  23. Hello Forum, I recently purchased a Pilot Vanishing Point. My initial impression has been positive from buttery smooth nib to convenience of retracting tip. I have one concern over this pen. It is, I continue to experience a leak behind the nib. Even after I clean the section out, the leak reappears every time I push the nib out to write. I am wondering if this is a normal behavior or something wrong with the pen. I am using Noodlers Blue ink and using the piston converter that came with the pen. I have attached the photo of the problem so you can help diagnose it further. Thank you. Tae
  24. Hey guys! I'm relatively new to fountain pens, but I adore them already. I started using them as a product of a search for a finer line (messy, fast, small script required it), and now I continue my search. I am currently most interested in the Pilot Vanishing Point XF nib, which I have heard great things about. For context, I am a senior in high school (limited funds, and this will be used for note-taking), and I have been using a Lamy Safari XF for about five months now. How much thinner is the VP XF nib? How smoothly does it write? Is it useable for daily note-taking, as in fast note-taking? Could I use it with your typical 5-subject mead or staples notebook? ****If not, what's a good five-subject notebook for it?****** And, honestly, is $140 worth it? I'm saving up for it with lawn-mowing so it will take a few months (or longer if it snows early this year), but if it's really worth it I'm in. And one more thing, does anyone know if it's possible to test-drive one in a pen shop? It doesn't have to be any particular size nib, I just would like to know if the clip placement is a problem before I spend that amount of money. Thank you, to anyone who can help me out!
  25. Hi! I don't have any Japanese pens yet, and I'd like to change that! I like shiny, blingy things, and the Pilot/Namiki Vanishing Point in the various Raden designs http://www.gouletpens.com/PN60590_p/pn60590.htm as well as the Platinum Galaxy Maki-e have all caught my eye http://nibs.com/PlatinumMakieGalaxy.html. The third pen I'm eying up is the Platinum Izumo Urushi (in Akatame red) http://nibs.com/Platinum-President-Izumo-Dark-Red.html (While not 'blingy', there is something about this pen that really grabs my attention. A subtle intensity I guess. I would love some input from those with experience with these models (or similar) who can tell me what they like/didn't like about these particular pens, what they would change etc etc. Some extra info: - I have never tried a Vanishing Point, so I don't know if I would like the feel of it, and I'm not sure if I'd like that clip right in the middle there. Does it impede your writing at all? I'm going to be honest, I'm totally going on looks here - I tend to favour big, wet writing Italian pens and I love a smoothy smooth (or at least mostly smooth LOL) with some nice spring in the nib. - I'm going to contact john Mottishaw and seeing what my customization options are for the Galaxy and the Izumo - I'd love to do a Spencerian mod on the Galaxy if that was possible. - I read somewhere that the Urushi coating changes after you have used it for a long time. Can anyone clarify/add to that? Many thanks for all of your help !





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