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I picked up a golden brown oversize Parker Vacumatic this week at a flea market. It has the two tone arrow nib and bottom jewel on the blind 's and a wide band with a small box for a monogram on the cap. However, it is missing the cap screw, arrow clip, and cap jewel. How hard will finding the parts be and what price should I expect to pay when I do find them? Thus far my searches on the net have yielded zero results for the clip and jewel. Looking forward to seeing it back in writing condition. Thank you, Rob

Hello Everyone, Does anyone know or have any idea what causes transparent celluloid to amber? I previously figured it was a combination of ink stains and sunlight damage, but I noticed even the plastic plungers of some Parker vacumatics are more ambered than others, despite being sheilded from sunlight and protected from ink equally.

I just picked up a pair of vacumatic 51s which seem to be in great shape but haven't been used for a while. I've flushed them a few times using first a mild ammonia solution and then some distilled water, but what's the best way to empty the water from the pens before inking them? Nothing is expelled no matter how many times I pump the filler. Thanks...

Hi, I have two double jewel Parker vacumatics that have both a date code and a dot. On one the code is (27.) and on the other the code is (.46.). My research tells me that if it's from the 1940s there will be dots and if its from the 1930s there will be two numbers (quarter + year). Are there any anomalies that allow for both? I only wonder because they both have striated double jewels and no blue diamond, which makes me think 30s...but the dots are throwing me off. I can post some pictures but won't be able to take them until Sunday at the earliest.

I'm not sure if this should go in the Parker forum or the repair forum, but it's here now. My friend gave me a bunch of fountain pens that she found after her father passed away. She says none of them are worth a lot, because he wouldn't have had much money to spend on pens. Some look like Frankenpens, and some have been tinkered with. One of these is a Cedar Blue Parker 51 Vacumatic. The barrel, shell and blind cap are in good condition. The cap has no clip. The shell screws off easily, no heat or anything, and I've managed to clean the nib and feed in the ultrasonic with no problems. The feed has no colour tint to it at all. So the pen wasn't used much. The main problem is with the other end. He's obviously tried to unscrew the pump at some point. The threads are a bit 'mangled'. I've also seen pumps, and the threads should be black. These ones are aluminium coloured. I got out my Pen Repair book and see that you need a special tool to unscrew this pump, and I don't have one. Even if the pump came out, I also don't have a 'pellet pusher' or a sac. So I have worked out that in order to get this pen working again, at the bare minimum, I need a special pump removal tool or C Clip to unscrew the pump, then I need a 'pellet pusher' plus a 51 size vacumatic sac. I forgot to mention that the first thing that happened when I removed the blind cap was that the plunger fell out, so I don't know if that means I need a new pump, or whether this one can be repaired. I suppose that I might know more about that if I got it out. I have read that putting a new pump in can sometimes mean the blind cap will no longer fit properly, so I'm not sure about buying a new pump. So I've searched for these parts and I've priced up repairs. I have included the price of clip, as well as a new pump, just in case. Here's the thing: I can buy a restored Parker 51 Vacumatic on ebay for about the same as the cost of having this one repaired, or buying the parts to repair it myself. I can't imagine that I will ever need to repair another 51 Vacumatic, so buying the tools may not be the best way forward. Besides anything else, I have emailed Laurence Oldfield and asked him a price for the items I need, and haven't received any reply. So what would you do?

Hi. I was trying to research the value of this pen and am having a hard time pinpointing information on it. I know it is a vacumatic from 1947, but a Google search brings up varying results. None of them match this one's details and the price range for the pens similar to this is between $140.00 and $440.00. It also has the name Dewey G. Chesebrough on it, which gets zero Google results. Does anyone know more?

Have a vintage Vacumatic Oversize pen with a loose pocket clip that can rotate around the cap. Is there a way to tighten up the clip without having to remove the cap jewel? If so, what tool to use to tighten clip? Thanks. Mark

Where do you guys and gals to to find old Parker Vacumatics in the wild? Ebay seems over-priced. Folks who sell theirs from their own web page have taken time to restore the pens, and as such, ask a pretty penny for them. I don't want a perfect one. I want one that I can make perfect. Any tips on where to look? Flea markets? Estate sales? What are the clues that suggest to you a high(er) probability of success in finding old vacumatics that need repair, but aren't completely destroyed? It seems like a time-intensive pursuit. Any tips on how to shorten this time? Thanks in advance.

Hello all! I recently found a rather mysterious Vacumatic. The date code is 1946, body is a long major and the nib is superflex. The nib is also bigger than others found on majors/long majors along with strange markings. I have included some pictures, I have asked a number of people and so far no one can solve the mystery. Hopefully some of you can piece it together http://fountainpenboard.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.png Cheers! - Brimic

Would you consider using J. Herbin Bleu Ocean 1670 in a Parker Vacumatic? Or De Atrementis inks? I have a Sherlock Holmes ink from De Atrementis I also like.

I recently won an auction for a vac to rebuild (golden pearl, 1941, speedline filler) that was missing it's blind cap tassie, it's one of the ones without the threaded jewel. It just has a faux jewel machined into the blind cap, and a ridge where the tassie aught to be. Can a replacement tassie be added back on? I assume the old one's gone because of celluloid shrinkage, so would a replacement have to be glued on or is there a better fix? I plan on keeping this pen for my collection but I'd really like to have it complete with the tassie. Also, are those reproduction tassies I see on an auction site any good, or are they ill fitting and not worth it?

I had a bummer of an experience last night. Riding on the high of successfully restoring a Vacumatic Major with a nice flexy nib, I ventured ahead to restoring a beat up Parker 51 I picked up from the bay. The most challenging of these restorations is removing the pellet inside the cup of the pump unit. I managed with my Dremel and a dentist pick, but in the process of inserting the replacement diaphragm, a small portion of the cup broke off. It's a tiny section, approximately triangular shape, from the lip of the mouth down less than half the side of the cup. I was devastated as everything else was going so well. The only silver lining is that the diaphragm is securely mounted to the cup. I tried to brainstorm some solutions, and it boils down to: (1) Superglue the broken off portion being careful not to get any glue on the diaphragm. My thinking is that the cup will be covered by the rolled up portion of the diaphragm. As long as it does not have to endure excessive stress, the cup will manage to hold onto to the pellet for as long as I will have/use the pen. I could reinforce and help maintain structural integrity by wrapping the cup with teflon tape. (2) Just wrap the cup with teflon tape to help maintain it's shape (in the process I could place the broken bit on there without gluing). As long as the increase in dimensions is kept to a minimum, such a procedure will not hamper the fit and function of the cup. The above may just be a stop-gap measure, but I would like to hear from the more experienced among you as to how best to go about overcoming this little accident. If needed, I could buy another pump unit. However, I do not know where to source this besides parts pens from the e-bay. PS - Sorry for no pics.

Hello Parker folk! I just bought a Vacumatic with a strange nib, its a Canadian Long Major with a nib marked "W", what could this possibly mean and is it any rare? I bough it off eBay out of curiosity for 100$, would love some more info!

Hello everyone, lately I got a Vacumatic. But it has a nib, which I can't really class. I don't think it's the original one - Vacumatic nibs generally look different. Maybe an old Duofold nib? I am thankful for any hint. I hope the photos show it well, but if not, this is what is stamped on: PARKER 14K 585 ENGLAND 25 It is a firm nib with a fine to medium tip. Best regards Till

I just received a Parker Vacumatic pen and pencil set. Knowing that the pencil does not work as-is, I see that lead is stuck inside the cone. I have the back of the pencil off where the eraser and spare lead is stored, but I don't know where to go next. A couple of other threads seem to indicate that the cone can be unscrewed, but I can't see how to do it. Is there any way to get into the cone to see what is going on? FWIW it appears to be a Canadian-made pencil (the pen seems to be a '36 or '46 Canadian).

It's a Speedline filler; 4th quarter production imprint. Won an auction and got it for $60 shipped. It'll need a tassie and jewel for the blind cap, but I'm not too worried about minor aesthetic parts for now. It's already been restored by Danny Fudge (thewritepen.net). I guess I have a few questions for those of you who have Vacs... What's the best way to buff white marks out of this finish? It looks good as is, but I'd like to touch it up a bit further when I get the chance to. I've heard that micromesh and a buffing wheel can do the trick just fine. I may also end up wanting to buff the nib and clip - they look pretty good, but there are a few spots that look slightly tarnished/stained. Are the elongated blind caps from Vacumatics generally interchangeable? I had the thought that I could just purchase a plain black one (rounded end; no tassie or jewel), as they're available in relative abundance on eBay. Unfortunately, some sellers aren't extremely specific about the model they were pulled from. Is $60 a good price for this pen? $60 is worth it to me for the finish, filling system, and 14k nib. Based on the prices I saw doing prior research, this is a pretty good deal considering that it's been restored. A few questions concerning the blind cap: am I correct in assuming that the jewel and tassie are strictly cosmetic? Is the blind cap left open without them? I don't think that this could cause drying issues as the diaphragm should form an airtight seal for the ink chamber, but I figured it'd be worth asking about. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

I can find nothing on the interweb's regarding this Parker Vacumatic BOX NO. 235. Does anyone know anything about this box? Years of use, etc. I'm guessing it is made from Bakelite (no camphor odor with hand rub.) Any info about the box would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. -Oslowe

I have received this capless vacumatic and wonder if you can tell which cap would be needed. I know at this point it will be a marriage, however if you find the right cap, would it not make it semi-original. I do not plan on selling the unit as it fits my writing style with the right footed 15 deg oblique. It feels like an oblique. I will put the photographs to clear up any issues I have made. It is good to be back, 2014 was an extremely busy year, did not make the philly show, but will be in Atlanta in April. That is a for sure. I miss europe, and Hawaii is getting boring, no pen shops, just luck of the draw, and im not selling much or buying much in the last few months. Any help on this unit is appreciated. The barrel is tassied. the filler is speedline notched. The only thing is the blindcap is a shorty. Cheers GSM https://www.flickr.com/photos/129689739@N07/16197180550/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/129689739@N07/16196963668/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/129689739@N07/15762129284/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/129689739@N07/16197172130/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/129689739@N07/16197167000/

I must say this is not this first time I duplicated a thread. I am not trying to get those posts numbers. You would be so kind too close this I hope I have kept the correct thread. GSM

Greetings Vacumaniacs, Have recently acquired several very nice Vacs after not having some for a few years.... Guess I got the Vac bug again......something very compelling about them..... So, now I'm wondering what inks to use or not use in them in order to avoiding staining the pens.... What do you all suggest? Thanks, Mark

Hello everyone, (Fair warning: long winded babbling to follow) I was very ill last weekend--which means I was home and able to watch eBay! I bought my first Esterbrook, which has turned out fantastically for the price (9.99, it was going to end with 0 bidders-until me) I also bought this Parker 51 Vacumatic, which is my third '51'. The diaphragm will need to be changed (oh the woes of a vac collection- this is my 7th vacumatic filler), but I knew that. In summary, how did I do? http://www.ebay.com/itm/371205590406?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Bought my first Parker 51, but I'm new to these so any info on my particular 51 would be much appreciated. Hopefully I didn't over pay for a worthless pile of parts. http://goo.gl/WNdWZC Looks good to me but as I said, I know squat about Parker 51s.

I've decided to try fixing my Parker vacumatics by myself. online I've seen two kinds of tools advertised for removing the back of the pen: one looking like a rectangle of metal with a certain number of holes, the other looking like a small wrench. I'm sure you understand what I'm talking about. Do you have preferences or suggestions? which one of the two kinds is your favourite tool?

So, I have my first Parker 51 Vacumatic, and it looks to be a Mark I from 1947. It also needs repair. I've been reading up, and checking available YouTube videos. Here is what I need some clarification on.... Is the section a screw-on, or is this model earlier than that? From what I've been reading, I should gently heat the barrel, and NOT the section, then grip the barrel and gently unscrew the section. Correct? In my digging around, I found a new, but somewhat expensive version of the old Barrett pliers. Knipex makes these, and they are sold at Sears. Parallel grip and smooth surface. http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1368&groupID=1500&artID=34171 And, I lucked out at Lowe's. I found these on sale for $10, and the larger one is another parallel pressure grip, plus the mouth is already rubber. http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/099198/099198850498.jpg

Hello all, I won this pen off an ebay auction for $42 a few days ago. It was listed as a Parker 51 vacumatic. After receiving the pen it says Parker Duofold 1 on it. I tried cross referencing it on sites like Richardspens to try to find out aproximate year that mine was made, but I'm having a hard time finding one just like this. I've found ones similar but they usually have a solid gold band on the cap not the two gold lines, or some minor difference. As far as I can tell it doesn't fill with ink, guessing bladder needs to be replaced. It was described in the auction as not tested with ink so I wasn't surprised. Can't for the life of me get the nib housing to unscrew from the body of the pen, actually twisted the nib around a bit but it went right back into place, no damage. Only other thing is it's missing it's clip but I found some on ebay for around $25 so I'll pick one up. Not sure how to attach it tho since the end of the cap has a small plastic threat like something should screw in and all the replacement ones I see look like just a round circle, so I guess I'd have to glue it on or find that cap that screws on. Anyhow any advice or help would be greatly appreciated, thanks. http://i.imgur.com/POWC1D4l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jxYANgjl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/TLSMmYal.jpg