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  1. Hi, guys! I have been bitten by the fountain pen bug recently, and have found out very early that I want to write using a stub/italic nib for the rest of my life. This poses a bit of a problem for a few reasons - my budget (and comfort level) doesn't quite reach the price threshold for pens with good CI or stub nibs (and grinds are even more expensive); I am a lefty with small handwriting, and so anything over 1.0 transforms by cursive into almost undecipherable squiggle. At the moment, I am using Lamy Safaris with 1.1 italic nibs (which are a touch too wide), a Pilot plumix (whose nib is earmarked for a Pilot Metropolitan or a Baoer 388 if I am brave enough), and a Jinhao x750 with a 1.1 Knox nib, and a Kaigelu 356, which was ground to a 0.6mm (too fine) that I got off ebay. I like the pricepoint and looks of the Chinese pens, as they look classy without the price tag and I can potentially get a few of them to play with without breaking the bank. I was wondering if any of you knew where I could get Chinese pens with italic nibs or stubs as a standard, as custom grinding would cost several times more than the pens cost? I would prefer not to go the route of putting frankenpens together (i.e. buying an italic nib and replacing the stock nib). Second, if I did go the frankenpen route, which of the good cursive italic or stub nibs (i.e. Edison, F-C Mayusama nibs, etc.) would potentially fit into what Chinese pen body? Has anyone ever done a hybrid Chinese pen using any of these nibs or nib+section before? Thanks heaps in advance!
  2. Anirban4u

    Yet Another Stub Question

    Last time I visited my folks, I swapped my Silver metro F with dad's Charcoal Safari M. I can't live with a metro , so I bought a white MR M. However, this is not the place for my love for metropolitans or nib width of Western and Asian nibs. YOU have already taught me that. Thank YOU. The safari was bugging me for some time, yes it's a great pen (peace to safari haters), but it's pretty boring. So I thought about swapping the nib to an italic. But Lamy replacement nibs are rare here in India and costs almost half of a new pen (900 INR for the nib, ~1700 the pen). So that was not a very good option to try my hand at an italic. SO I kept looking and found a NOS 78g with a broad Stub. Now, what I know already from hanging around with you guys for over a year is that: 1. Stubs are slightly rounded (smoothed) at the corners, thus less scratchy. 2. Cursive Italics have sharper edges and can be a bit scratchy. The ebay listing for the 78g mentioned stub. But I still find it quite scratchy. I've added a writing sample to show off the "always awesome" 78g & my amazingly awkward handwriting. So here are my questions.. 1. Is this a stub or a CI nib ? 2. What can I do to make it a bit smoother ? The pen was dipped in pelikan RB.
  3. Just been looking at Iguansell website. I came across the rather handsome M625, and when I scrolled down the nib options there was a stub and italic option, as well an OB option. Just wondering if anyone knows if this is indeed something that Pelikan have introduced, or, as I think, this might be the result of the unintentional misappropriation of the Aurora nib options to this line of Pelikans..
  4. Mardi13

    Parker 51 With Stub Nib

    A little bit ago I won an auction on a Parker 51 that was advertised as having an oblique stub nib. It didn't look oblique in the photos but did look intriguing so I got it, having only one 51 and that is a fine point. I thought I would write a little to show what the pen is like. My handwriting is not the best, sorry!
  5. Hi all, Just getting back into pens and would love to give a stub nib a try, so was hoping some of you could recommend an inexpensive nib I could swap into my Ahab. I saw Goulet is selling some for $15, was hoping there was something cheaper available by now. Also, am I right in assuming the 1.1 is like a fine and the 1.5 a medium, at least on the broad part? Thanks much, GBB
  6. DrCodfish

    Getting From Here ....

    ... to there. I recently purchased a beautiful NOS Parker 45, dark green, brushed stainless steel cap and farily flexy 14K gold nib, circa 1967. I decided to ink and use it. https://www.flickr.com/photos/34372195@N02/14882101448/in/photostream/ I was a little dissappointed with how flexible this nib was. I'm a lefty over writer and so the nib just does not work very well for me on my verticals (down strokes all). A couple moths ago I sent a P45 with a big broad nib to Danny Fudge and had him grind it to stub. It came back a terrific writer, this was peraps one fo the best FP investments I have made in quite a while (sometimes lucky trumps smart). Rather than have my new pen languish in the box I'd like to get a replacement B nib and have it ground by Mr Fudge, with the hopes that this new pen iqwoould be as much of a joy to write with as the other. Where can I turn to purchase a broad nib for the new P45? I would be happy to trade the gold nib, it will never be of any use to me as is. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. PS Apologies for the Flickr link, I don't seem to know the secret handshake for posting pics, help there would also be appreciated. Best, Paul
  7. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7331/11764292803_115a097a45_c.jpg http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3798/11765944553_9d24da7703_c.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7305/11766101454_1626696848_c.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/11765691675_81d178ee0b_c.jpg http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3771/11766458776_fec61eb9a1_c.jpg Appearance This is one beautiful pen. The deepness of the lacquer is striking. I have a kikyo nakaya and the shine and finish of the blue urushi is a bit better, but I would say the blue lacquer on this pen is not far behind in its depth of color and shine. The colors and the design of the pen seems reminiscent of the blue and gold Waterman Edson. As I suppose any Van Gogh aficionado would be, I find the combination of deep blue with gold particularly fascinating. The trim is gold plated: shiny on the clip and cap band, and brushed gold on the rest of the cap. It has a square PFM like cap head. The end of the pen body is also squared like the PFM. Nib I've included some closeups of the nib unit, definitely my favorite part. The nib gives line variation like a crisp cursive italic, only the difference is that it is super smooth. Its unique in being able to give so much line variation with so much smoothness. The only other factory italic that approaches it in my opinion is the Esterbrook 9312 nib and even so, it is not nearly as smooth as the Sheaffer. It should be kept in mind that unlike many italics, the Sheaffer factory stub is not a nail, but rather it has a little bit of give to it, and feels springy when you write. Design The touchdown lever makes a pleasant whooshing sound when it is depressed. Note gold plated touchdown converter in the case. I like to post the cap and the lacquer finish is strong and does not leave scratches. The posting is very smooth, and the pen feels perfectly balanced with or without the cap on. The nib section, the part of the pen you actually put your fingertips on when you write, is quite wide, its in the range of a montblanc 149. From the nice hefty feel of the pen in the hand to the substantial but not over done weight, you really feel like you are writing with something very solidly built. Its especially good for someone with large hands. Writing experienceThe pictures cannot portray how nice the writing experience is. Its so smooth with just a hint of feedback, just enough to help you navigate the paper. Its funny, but as long as you position it right, and it has a very tolerant sweet spot, it does not seem like you are writing with an italic, until you look at the line variation you are getting. Its a wet pen, so if you want to get really tight italic lines, you need a somewhat dry ink. I used Sheaffers Skrip Blue Black, but probably would do even better using an iron gall like Montblanc midnight blue old formula, or perhaps Pelikan Blue Black. Drawbacks The only thing I wish is that the touchdown worked. It just does not seem to draw up ink. The o rings seem ok on it, so I am a bit stumped. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. However, it works great with cartridges and a sheaffer squeeze converter is supposed to fit it too. So taking into account the other positive features of this pen, lack of touchdown is only a minor issue. Summary Its an amazing pen, something I feel very fortunate to have the chance to use. If you ever have an opportunity to buy one, especially with the hard to find factory stub nib, I would say do it, you will not be disappointed.
  8. Let's talk about a pen which is seldom mentioned here (or anywhere else for that matter...). The Gate City Belmont Syringe Filler. 1. Appearance & Design (9/10) This is the caribbean version, which looks pretty amazing, under my lamp the material sparkles like metal flake paint on cars (I tried to capture that in the first photo following this paragraph), the material is resin as far as I can tell. The pen tapers towards the end of the filler cap and the section, with the biggest circumference at the thread of the filling 'mechanism'. The ink chamber is translucent with a slightly blue/turquoise hue. It has a black section and a two-tone steel nib (it's possible to order the pen with a gold nib) and a pretty big cap with some engraved text on it. All in all, a pretty looking pen. Three things which bother me: The threads at both ends of the ink chamber look somewhat rough, the cap is build from two parts and I don't like the seam between them and finally the clip, which is too small for the cap and looks like a joke. ] 2. Construction & Quality (6/10) Not sure if I wanna go down even further to 5 points. This is a 160,- US $ pen and it just doesn't feel the part. The whole thing and its components feel flimsy. There was glue (or pretty old silicone grease) at the threads, making the thing feel sticky. Nib wasn't correctly aligned to the feed and now for the thing which drives me nuts: The filler cap sits slightly askew on the barrel (see photo below), I can feel a ridge with my thumb. Maybe this is because I'm German and precision craftsmanship is something we germans like very much, but I could rant for hours about this... Addendum: For folks who think a Ford Lightning pickup truck is nicely build, this won't be a problem, you can add 2 points to the score... 3. Weight & Dimensions (8/10) Not much to say, it's light (that's nice, at least in my opinion) and a bit bigger than a Pelikan M200. For me (6'2 guy with small hands) this is the right size. It posts pretty well, if that's important for you. To add a bit more text to this paragraph I've made three photos of the box, as you can see the pen seems to be made by Bexley. 4. Nib & Performance (9/10) Now for the important part: The nib is a two-tone steel nib and it would look nice if there was just a Bexley-logo and not this big, ugly "Iridium Point Germany" text... This was a broad, which Richard transformed into a 0.8 stub nib. After aligning the feed and a bit of writing it skipped, a lot. After some extreme flushing/cleaning/scrubbing/cursing this was solved and now the pen writes as it should. The line is easily as wide as my Lamy 1.1 and shows nice variation. I've ordered a 6/10 wetness (Richards default wetness) and the pen lays down beautiful wet lines. It's smooth and writes with minimal feedback, but it's not as smooth as my TWSBI 1.5 stub, which glides without any feedback at all. 5. Filling system & Maintenance (9/10) System or mechanism is a big word for something which is essentially a simple syringe. Unscrew the filler cap and you can move the plunger up and down. That's it... Great for fast flushing and it holds a ton of ink, around 1.8ml! If you are into nifty filling systems, buy a piston or vacuum filler, this here is easy, fast, reliable and pretty simple. Everything can be disassembled for cleaning and re-greasing. Nib and feed are friction fit and pull out easily. I would give it 10 out of 10, but there's a thread insert which holds the plunger and is screwed into the ink chamber. The filler cap also attaches to that insert and the thing is pretty difficult to remove. If this could be unscrewed with -let's say- a TWSBI wrench, this would be pretty close to perfect... 6. Cost & Value (7/10) It looks really nice, I love how it sparkles in bright light, it writes really well and it's a syringe filler, which is something you don't see that much. But it's also a pen with a very simple filling mechanism, mediocre build quality, average materials and an ugly steel nib to put it very bluntly. I know that Bexley isn't the biggest manufacturer and that I shouldn't compare it to mass production pens, but in the end a 60,- $ TWSBI seems the much better deal than the 160,- $ Belmont. 7. Conclusion (48/60) I'm sure that in some parts this review sounds like I hate the thing. But no, I like it, really! It looks really great, it's a great writer and the filling system is special (even if it's as simple as it gets). I'm disappointed with the quality, I've expected something that was built like a tank but I've got a paper plane...made out of thin paper... I hope this was useful to some of you and if you have questions/unsolicited criticism/useful info/bitter rants/etc. please voice them below
  9. New to posting, old to fountain pens. If you have a cursive italic nib on a fountain pen (ideally an excellent nib custom ground by one of the best nibmeisters) could you let me know how scratchy sounding the cursive italic sounds compared to a smooth round nib and also if you have it, a stub nib. I love the line the cursive italic produces but find the sound somewhat bothersome when writing in a quiet room. It sounds a bit as though I am trapped in Les Liaisons dangereuses with a quill pen but without the romantic drama. I realize the solution might simply be to play music in the background but am wondering if this is something others have noticed and found bothersome? The two nibs in question are both gold nibs, both with custom cursive italic nibs--one is a Montblanc and the other is a Waterman Le Man 200. For comparison my round nibs are completely silent, and the sound I am hearing is a bit louder or at least scratchier than that produced by my Lamy Safari 1.1 stub nib. And is there a way to make them a wee bit quieter? And would a custom stub nib have been a much quieter choice (if so, how close to silent are they?) Many thanks for any insights.
  10. Levenger and their True Writer series presents a bit of a puzzle in their value proposition. On the one hand, I have a Kyoto True Writer, gotten for a cheap price on a deal, which is a wonderful pen: lovely writer, well balanced, and very pretty. So I thought about adding a stub nib to it, as a fun option. Visiting Levenger, I discovered that regular nib units run $30, not great but not horrible either. Stubs, however, cost double! That's about what I paid for the whole pen! And seems like a total ripoff. So what's the deal? Is there some justification for charging double the price for a stub? Do they really cost so much more to make? Or is this pure price discrimination on Levenger's part where normal people get the "good" price on fountain pens, but those of us who love them get killed on "specialty items" like the stub. More broadly, does Levenger represent legitimate value or is it a ripoff?
  11. Hi folks, this is my first post on FPN. I would like to thank everyone who has posted reviews as it made my life so much easier in selecting new pens. Here is a letter I wrote using a Noodler's Konrad Pen with Noodler's Black. I changed the flex nib out for a Goulet 1.1mm stub. The letter is not technically a review, but more my reaction to an interview of Nathan Tardif by David Goulet. However it may give you an idea on how the pen writes. I used cheap printer paper and was pleasently surprised by the results. Anyway, if you appriciciate what Noodler's stand for and enjoy there products, please post your gratification on this post. I think Nathan Tardif is an inspirational person. I hope you enjoy my letter and Long live Noodler's. P.S Please excuse my handwriting, grammer and spelling. I have to write, but I am not good at it.
  12. I am looking to get a Binder stub or cursive italic for a Pelikan or a VP I have. I am debating the size. If you have a Binder 0.6mm stub, a 0.8mm stub, one of the cursive italics, or even a crisp italic (which I don't think I will get as I want a smoother writing experience) and have a writing sample you want to show off, I'd be very grateful!
  13. Greetings: Longtime reader, first-time poster. Thank you to all for making this a robust community of information and passion! Happy to be on the inside... I'm looking for recommendations for a Gold Stubbed pen. Not vintage; current manufacture. If possible, a narrower stub like something closer to a 1.1 stub in Lamy steel. I'm using a Pilot Prera Calligraphy Medium (CM) now, but need a pen with more weight, smoother nib (hence gold), and just bigger. The prera is seriously miniature. Would like to keep it under $300, but if something is a "must-have" then please shout it out. There's no counting pennies this far down the rabbit hole. Be well, Ben
  14. This is not a fountain pen review. I have been looking for a pen that I can write ‘fast’ (as the main priority) with variation in line width. I have no idea of where to start but end up purchasing a bunch of pens with stock 1.1 italic. Personally I have been using fountain pens with EF or SEF for many years. Sailor profit with music nib – this is more of a stub than italic and there is no problem with the flow. It writes a wet, wide line. Monteverde Intima with 1.1 italic – a beautiful pen but I have a problem with the italic nib from the start. It skips and writes with a dry line. I have tried flushing and applying gentle pressure. It continues to skip and write a dry line. I have just received a Monteverde Impressa from gouletpens today with 1.1 italic. It has the chrome version of the 1.1 italic and writes a better line. TWISB classic with 1.1 italic , Noodler’s walnut – this nib is surprisingly dry. However, there is no skipping during writing so far. The pen is the right size for my hand. I wear size L gloves. This is a piston filler. TWISB diamond 580 with 1.1 italic, Noodler’s Liberty Elysium – this is an identical if not the same nib as the one on TWISB classic but there is clear sample variation with TWISB nib. The nib on this pen writes a nice wet but wider line subjectively. It is a much bigger pen. Lamy AL star with 1.1 italic, Noodler’s Polar Black – I have half a dozen of Lamy Al star and I have ordered the 1.1 italic nib. It writes just like any other Lamy Al star – slightly scratchy but nice wet line. Jinhao 159 with a Goulet 1.1 italic, Noodler’s walnut – this is a big pen that costs US$6 including postage. I ordered 4 of them. I change the nib to the Goulet 1.1 italic. It is smooth, wet and enjoyable pen to write with. The nib has dried up once while capped in drawer and I have primed it once but has not had a problem since then. The top seven pens in the pen tray are the pens mentioned above..sorry about the quality of images from my phone... From my limited experience with 1.1 italic, I think the decisions are not hard. If you want a piston filler, get the TWISB. It writes well and is well built. If budget is a problem, the Jinhao 159 (and I suspect any other Jinhao with replacable nib) with a Goulet 1.1 italic is the best value for money. The jinhao and the Goulet nib costs me US$21.00. Monteverde is a beautiful pen with sample variation but from my experience with its italic so far, I will pick TWISB over it. As for the Sailor pen, there is no doubt about its music nib. It is the only pen here with the gold nib. However, there is less line width variation comparing to the italics. I hope this helps! Enjoy….
  15. CelloGeek

    Best Shaders

    I write with stubs (and will write with flex when I can afford some vintage flex) and I love inks that shade. They just look more interesting to me. I'm looking for a list of really intense shaders. Here are the shaders I've tried: Noodlers... Black Swan in Australian Roses, pre July '14. (RIP) Navajo Turquoise Apache Sunset Diamine ancient copper Iroshizuku Tsuki-yo (moonlight) What are your favorites?
  16. I recently acquied a broad nibbed Pelikan MK30. It's a very nice pen and the nib is silky smooth, but it's very, very broad and as wet as a shag. The line looks like it was done with a texta (sharpie) with no variation at all. Now I like a broad nib, but I really like stubs so I'm thinking of getting it modified. Of course there are the American guys that everyone talks about, and I do like the sound of a butter-line stub, but does anyone know of any Australians (or New Zealanders) that do this kind of nib work?
  17. Hello all, I'm looking to purchase a new pen and I'm specifically looking to obtain a stub nib. Due to my smaller hand writing, I've decided a 1.1 mm would work the best. My question is, is a 1.1 mm stub nib suitable for every day use, such as taking notes? Or is it more for bigger writing? Any help is greatly appreciated Thank you, CJ
  18. CelloGeek

    Stub Lover, Big* Purchase... Lamy 2000?!

    Dubious! *It's big for my budget. Preference: Stubs So, I have five (inexpensive) stub nibs right now. I'm ready to try new things, like flex or a gold nib or a more expensive stub! (I've tried twsbi EF, Lamy F, and Pilot M, but never a german M or B.) My best stub is my twsbi 1.1mm. Lamy 2000?! But that's not a stub! I was thinking M or B nib, and I'm leaning toward the B. I've read that it's "a bit stubbish" and I've been looking at writing samples all night and morning (Not as wonderful as it sounds) but I'm just not convinced this is the right next pen for me. I could get it ground stub, but I don't know where I'd do that, or how much that would cost, either. Money is a factor. Pros: cool pengold nibground stub? Cons: expensive*sweet spotnot stubgrind cost? Maybe the sweet spot won't be a problem since I use stubs which are a bit harder to write with(?) My second option is a Pilot Prera Demonstrator, calligraphy M nib, light blue accents. Hopefully it writes better than my current pilot calligraphy M nib... What do you think? Should I look at flex fountain pens instead? Dip pens? Sell a kidney and buy a black nibbed Aurora?
  19. CJ_ung

    Twsbi 580 1.1 Stub?

    Hello all, I am thinking of purchasing a TWSBI 580 soon. I've finally been able to choose this model over the Vac700, yet another question remains. Do I purchase the 1.1 stub, or a regular medium nib? If anyone has experience with the TWSBI stub nibs or stub nibs in general compared to normal nibs, any advice would be greatly appreciated, Much thanks, CJ
  20. Which nib of yours is the one to which all comparisons are made? What is it about this nib that makes this "The nib to rule them all"? Mine is the factory stub on an Aurora 88. Absolutely perfect! Perfect ink flow, perfect line variation, perfectly balanced, perfect feedback. I in fact use this as my standard description of what I want when customising.
  21. HalloweenHJB

    Does Pelikan Make A Flex Stub Nib?

    I hope I'm not asking a silly question, or one that has been answered repeatedly before, but I wonder if there is such a thing as a Pelikan flex stub nib. I love the way that Pelikan nibs are easily exchangeable, so I was hoping a person could order one. I have an "oblique" nib on one of my little M200s, but I really have never liked the scratchiness of it. Any suggestions for a more giving nib for any of the 200, 400 or 600 models? THANKS!
  22. Quick review on my Goulet nib: Assuming that my nib is a good representative of all the others, I think these nibs are a great value for the money. I put mine on a Nemosine Singularity that was otherwise a great pen but had a super scratchy nib. Now it is beautiful, writes really smooth, and is a total joy to use. And, that two-tone is really classy looking. :-) I say that if you are looking to replace a #6 nib, this would be my first recommendation. Also, I really like the Goulets and I would rather have their logo on my pen than any other company. A few more writing examples: And some poorly done pictures of the nib itself: Btw, I bought this nib with my own money and I am in no way affiliated with Goulet Pens. All opinions expressed above are strictly my own and you are totally allowed to respectfully disagree with them.
  23. Hi. I hope I'm not doing anything wrong by posting a question in this forum. I'm sure you are used to people asking "best pen that has everything I want under 100 bucks" . This is another such topic. So I've attached one of my custom "pens" to this post. It's digital, obviously. It's one of my favorite digital brushes. 50% elliptical, flexing ( even in upstrokes ), can be held at an angle. I want to have something close in a fountain pen format ( not dip pen ) if possible. Apparently flex is hard to come by in modern pens, so vintage is totally fine. I don't mind brands. Just a dependable fountain pen with a good nib. What kind of nib? I'm not sure. I probably won't be using it a lot for note taking and such, and it doesn't have to have super fine in its range. HALP!
  24. What's the best way to learn the intricacies of nib grinding? All the well known grinders started somewhere, and I'm curious how they learnt their craft. Also, do they all need that grinding wheel the cut and polish, or are there other methods which aren't too laborious?
  25. I have some FP experience and am considering getting some Serwex pens (http://goo.gl/Qfp9rY). I'm rather attracted by the decent reviews, nice nibs, and cheap shipping, as well as the price. Currently I have an Ahab and a Preppy. My Preppy's nib is rather stubborn (perhaps randomly so), so I'm looking for a Preppy replacement. My ink is Noodler's Polar Blue, which tends to bleed, so I'd like a really fine nib (student = cheap paper). I'm considering a Serwex 77B or 962. I'm also slowly getting better at my italic hand, so I really want a stub as well. Do any of you have experience with these pens? Do you have any advice or recommendations?

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