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  1. I came across this pen that probably belonged to my grandfather. First of all I haven't been able to identify the pen or its age. It has a vacumatic fill and an ebonite feed. The ribbed section also seems to be made of ebonite and has some signs of whitening. The biggest problem with this pen is that the barrel has been sloppily glued to the section by some sort of adhesive, most probably many years after the pen was manufactured. The adhesive was quite brittle so I managed to carefully peel it off. What remains behind looks like damage to the barrel itself. The adhesive has dug small pits in the barrel material (maybe celluloid? Bakelite? I'd love to hear your thoughts). Even after the removal of the glue, I can't unscrew the barrel from the section and I'm too scared to force it. I'd really like to know what the pen is made of, how to restore whitening on hard rubber, what parts is the pen made of (threadded, glued) and how one would go about restoring it. I'd really appreciate your input on this pen as I'd be quite interested of restoring it myself.
  2. Can you enlighten me, please? Thank you (This time: I do think among the ballpoints could be a Targa -- anyways, the tag shall help to find this thread again )
  3. This is an Australian-marked ‘Micro-crafted’ refill from a Sheaffer (Aust.) Fineline Ballpoint that was produced in the early-1950s. The ‘Micro-crafted’ refill was initially produced by Sheaffer USA in their Stratowriter in 1946 and later used in the Touchdown, Fineline and Snorkel (non-retracting) ballpoint models. This refill is unusual because the ink is contained in a plastic sac inside the aluminium casing. Here are some photos of a dismantled ‘Micro-crafted’ refill showing the ballpoint section, ink sac and aluminium sac protector/casing. The ballpoint section contains the ball, has a screw thread that screws into the ballpoint section/barrel to secure it in the pen, and a base where the sac and casing are attached. The aluminium casing is secured by four crimps that engage in a groove on the upper part of the section base. The black plastic sac is secured to another groove lower on the base by several wraps of thread. The sac in the picture is stiff but flexible; similar in feel to a plastic drinking straw. I was able to squeeze out the ink and clean the sac using denatured alcohol without damaging it. The blue ink in this refill now has a consistency like putty or dough but I was able to dilute it with denatured alcohol and make some ink swabs. When diluted the colour is similar to Diamine Sapphire Blue fountain pen ink. The ‘Micro-crafted’ refills were sold in a plastic protective case and cost 6 shillings and 9 pence (6/9) in Australia in 1953.
  4. #1: according to the seller ("j"), a SHEAFFER ballpoint: #2: according to the seller ("k1"), another SHEAFFER ballpoint: #3: according to the seller ("d"), the golden one is a SHEAFFER mechanical pencil: #4: according to the seller ("k2"), another SHEAFFER ballpoint, plus a fountain pen: Can you enlighten me, please? Thank you (This time: I do think #1 could be a Targa -- anyways, the tag shall help to find this thread again )
  5. (Uhm, I do not think it's a Targa -- but the tag shall help to find this thread again )
  6. gointomexico

    Sheaffer Sac Protector

    Does anyone have any recommendation on parts? I would like to get a square 4 lug side crimp sac protector because mine is broken. I twisted it in half, and there it went. I tried gluing it with JB Weld, but it doesn't hold. Welding seems like a bad option because the metal is very thin. Any tips for a source for these would be great, thanks!
  7. lmarine0510

    Vintage Sheaffer Fineline

    Appearance & Design (10/10) - A very understated appearance The Sheaffer fineline was introduced in 1948 and made throughout the fifties. it was Shaffer's economy line of pens and therefore has no frills and extras. it is a very good looking pen with a simple style. it is not flashy and does not stand out. it is by far my favorite pen because of its simplicity. mine, however, has some pitting on the lever and a sun spot on the celluloid of the barrel. i will not dock any points simply because of a previous owner's neglect to properly take care of this pen. 10/10 … Construction & Quality (10/10) - Very well constructed The pen is very sturdy and does not feel flimsy at all. the cap screws securely to the barrel, and is not going to go anywhere. the clip on the cap is spring loaded and very tight to the cap. the pen is not very heavy and not very light at the same time. it is very well balanced writing with the cap posted and with the cap off. 10/10 … Weight & Dimensions (8/10) - the pen with the cap on is moderately heavy, but remove the cap and you find that the cap comprised of half of the total weight. it is a short pen, with a length of only 4 3/4 inches without the cap on. it is 5 1/4 inches long with the cap on and 6 3/8 inches posted. overall, it is a bit small for my tastes, but it is still on the lower end of acceptable. 8/10… Nib & Performance (8/10) - lays down the ink this pen is either a thick medium or a thin bold. it really does lay down the ink, but that is better than having a skippy, dry pen. it always starts well and it writes like a dream. the nibs on these pens are interchangeable and i may try a finer one. the nib that i have is the Fineline 343. … Filling System & Maintenance (10/10) - Rock solid lever filler this pen, one of the cheapest entry level pens made by sheaffer at the time, with a new sac, still works like brand new after 60+ years. If that doesn't tell you anything about the quality of Sheaffer fountain pens, then nothing will. i am partial to lever fillers due to their simplicity and ease of cleaning. this thing works perfectly and is a prime example of a better time when things were made to last. it holds a decent amount of ink, probably a little over 1 mL. it lasts me throughout the day and usually dumps out plenty of ink when i fill it up for the next days' use. i could probably use it for 2 days on 1 fill, but i'm not risking running out. 10/10 … Cost & Value (10/10) - Ebay'd it for less than $10 I scored this on an ebay auction for $7.39 sans shipping. i feel like i got a great deal. 10/10 … Conclusion (Final score: 9/10) - in conclusion, this pen is like my old '78 Chevy truck. it is very reliable and good looking. it is one that i carry around and use everyday. i do not worry about it getting scratched up or damaged because it is no show piece to begin with. it is a rock-solid pen and, like i said, is my personal daily driver. http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k457/lmarine0510/6D5A6577-7E57-4FDF-B9E6-CF0E45531BCE_zps17rtu1bk.jpghttp://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k457/lmarine0510/DD644EF5-A54E-4409-AF61-87DD35D0C18D_zpsn58gqiix.jpghttp://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k457/lmarine0510/4054CF70-2036-43E4-9D20-7B04A66AF77C_zps1mkrze5v.jpghttp://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k457/lmarine0510/B576C59E-A5D2-4D83-8183-F723D05E2C21_zpsdhn6x54a.jpghttp://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k457/lmarine0510/5675BB3A-94E6-485A-98F3-F8E1DCBC8F5C_zps30pejslz.jpghttp://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k457/lmarine0510/3E58CFBC-EE7C-4741-B731-9A489FBAD4DE_zpspnwuxtgg.jpg
  8. Anchovy

    Sheaffer Little Red Mystery

    Hi Sheaffer cognoscenti! I hope you can help me with this query. I picked up a little red Sheaffer cartridge pen from a car boot sale. I can't find the model anywhere. Do you recognise this? It looks like a school pen: solid enough, lightweight, steel nib, and I'm sure it was cheap. The cap does not post because there is 19mm metal band at the end (imprinted USA); the band metal is not the same as the metal used to manufacture for the cap. Is it a pen for pupils who would normally bite the end of their pens, or am I making this up? Fun little writer and very robust. It's become my train journeys pen. Thank you for your help! Petra
  9. silverlifter

    Pfm Snorkel Not Fully Extending

    I've had a PFM II for a while now and recently, say the last two fills so around a month or so, when I rotate the blind cap, the snorkel does not fully extend. It stops around halfway out. There is sufficient snorkel protruding to gently pull it out to full extension and fill the pen. Winding it back in, it retracts fully. The mechanism seems otherwise quite sound: no sense of tension or hesitancy when turning the blind cap in either direction, it feels quite smooth. Just for the last turn or so, the snorkel sits halfway out. Is this indicative of imminent failure of a seal? Something else I should be concerned about?
  10. Hi all, I have 3 vintage Sheaffer fountain pens that were recently passed down to me from my late great-grandfather. I know that one of them is for sure a Sheaffer Snorkel, but I'm not sure about the other two. Images of the Snorkel: https://imgur.com/a/TWdURQp Images of the brown pen: https://imgur.com/a/BYhi5jT Images of the green pen: https://imgur.com/a/2myBKsk The two unknown pens I'm fairly confident I can easily restore. They both AFAIK have petrified sacs, though one of them came apart and I was able to get it out. The Snorkel I am less confident about, given its complexity. I'm somewhat sure that the filling mechanism works (I just accidentally sprayed my dress pants with Waterman Intense Black testing the nib and the pump), but getting the seals and especially the sac replaced will be a doozy. Any comments or thoughts as to what those two pens are or how I should proceed in the restoration process? Thanks!!
  11. aalbinger

    New 1950S Fineline?

    Last night after hearing that I stopped at Paradise Pen on our trip to Minneapolis my father in-law gave me this pen that he'd found in a box of stuff he'd purchased at an estate sale. http://www.werdna.net/images/RedFineline.jpg It is a Sheaffer Fineline in red with fine nib. In the Fineline box. Near as I can tell from opening it up is that it has never been inked. The bladder is soft and no signs of dried ink anywhere. I'm generally a user of things and not a collector. All of my other pens are also low end user pens and I generally have them inked up with different inks and ready to write. Is there any reason for me to keep this pen un-inked and in it's box or should I ink it up and go? -Andrew
  12. FlyingDoug

    From Out Of The Shadows

    It's a hot, sunny Sunday here in Auckland, New Zealand. The palms are rustling in the garden and the paddling pool is set up on the deck. It sure feels like we're in for a long summer. I've only just gone back to work after my longest holiday in four years - a full three weeks! - and escapism has already been tempting my mind away again. Hence, two new pens recently arrived after days of enjoyable reading, watching reviews, considering comparisons, weighing options, and finally hunting for the perfect specimen at the right price. That process, and my thorough enjoyment of it, made me realise just what a wonderful resource the Fountain Pen Network is. I've been a member for only a few months, and before that made casual use of the forums and reviews which popped up in Google searches. Now, I feel it's time to repay the use I've made of the knowledge compiled here by adding to it, if I can do so helpfully and modestly. I am hardly any kind of expert. The opposite in fact! I have always loved to write, but I'm not sure I had even touched a fountain pen up until a year ago. As a student, either at the start of the year or around exam time, I would go through a buzz of stationery purchases, in eagerness or desperation. The right coloured notebook or pen can set you up for a perfect semester... or prop up a feverish, last-ditch attempt to cram - right? But I never connected this fondness for smooth writers and cheerful bindings with fountain pens. I had always found fountain pens to be beautiful, but they were an object of prestige and mystique, something a bit niche or for the initiated. Like cigars and champagne; a thing I saw in movies, not in real life. Fast forward a few years to the middle of 2019 when I have a steady job (and income) and a partner who uses his grandfather's fountain pen at work. I get to see one up close. Boom. My interest began to grow, and I've had a challenge reining it in since. Now I have six pens. Some are European, some are Japanese. All are from different makers. They are of varying nib widths. Four are vintage and two were bought new. They are all of reasonably high quality and from known brands (thanks mainly to knowledge gleaned from this very site), except one which was a case of mistaken identity and a good lesson in caution when buying pens online. I have been thinking that I would love to do a post about my small collection so far, but given the diversity of it, does anyone have any pointers on where it should go? I was thinking of doing each pen with photos and writing samples. Not quite full reviews, but with commentary on how I find them to use for sure. I tend to go for good examples from good makers, and have a thing for unusual and beautiful design, materials or nibs. My pens are: - Lamy 2000, new (I'm sure plenty has been said already about this pen!) - Sailor Pro Gear, new (again, plenty said I'm sure) - Pilot Custom, vintage, maple. An unusual model from I assume the 1980s, with the inset nib found on some other pilot pens but not on the Custom anymore. It's design is also different to the current pilot design, more slender. It is also made of solid maple. It's a really interesting and beautiful pen, and I was only able to find one or two other references to this particular version online. - Sheaffer Targa, vintage, sterling silver. Not an uncommon pen, but it was my first and it remains my favourite. It has a fluted design that is beautiful to look at and hold. - Montblanc No. 32, vintage, presumed 1960s. This is the variant with the partially hooded nib, giving a wing-like shape which I find particularly beautiful. It's a fantastic writer, and I love its more minimal, sleek design compared to their top shelf pens and the more modern Montblancs. - Aurora Marco Polo, supposedly vintage. This was my mistake pen. When I was starting out, I saw this advertised as an Aurora Hastil on Etsy, and my research into the Hastil made me incredibly interested to own one. So I bought it, and later, after more research and comparing images, realised that it is NOT a Hastil. I feel like a real fool about this, even though the seller refunded half my money when I pointed out the mistake. If the pen were nice to use, this would have restored it to a place of honour in my eyes, but... well let me know if you'd like a proper post about my pens! If I do write a post about my collection, where should it go? Would it be better split up into individual posts about each pen? Let me know what you think. Thanks for having me! Doug
  13. I'm not at all experienced in restoring pens, but I thought I would try my hand at it a bit with a Sheaffer snorkel I just received as a gift. It is a black snorkel with a waverly nib, and it is in incredibly good condition except for the sac, which I plan to re-sac later. But first I have to get that sac out of the metal sac protector. I tried to loosen the metal crimping around the black piece at the bottom of the sac to gently pull it out via the snorkel, but I ended up pulling the snorkel out of the black piece instead. So my question is - as a non-experienced pen restorer (I mostly use modern pens but have a bit of vintage experience), how should I do this? I've heard I can heat it up a bit with a hairdryer to make the removal easier, but I'd like the advice of the experts here. And if you don't think I'm qualified to do this, please let me know. It seems like a small job but I really cannot say. Thank you for any advice.
  14. Yesterday I started my new year with a new achievement: I restored a Sheaffer Snorkel! I’m sure that’s not exactly a “stop the presses” moment for most of you, but it was a bit of a watershed for me. I’ve been collecting and using fountain pens for some years now, and I’ve done a bit of light tinkering along the way. I’ve learned to swap standard #5 and #6 nibs around freely, made some basic nib adjustments, got a sonic cleaner. I even replaced rubber bulbs on my bulb-fillers, which is about as easy as it gets, because it doesn’t even require disassembling the pen at all. But the Snorkel… It’s got a reputation as possibly the most advanced—and most complex—fountain pen ever produced. Jumping into this was a leap of faith for me. With three non-functioning Snorkels in hand, I snagged a fresh bottle of shellac and a parts kit from eBay. Then took a while to work up my nerve. The most scary thing to me is disassembly, if a pen was put together with glue and not designed to come apart easily. I figure if I’m going to break one, or scar one up, that’s when it’ll happen. Fortunately, a lot of Snorkels seem to come apart quite easily. Unfortunately, the one I picked to start working on was stubborn and seemed like it got a triple shot of glue back at Ford Madison. I had to apply heat and a fair bit of torque (with latex-coated gloves for extra grip) before it gradually turned loose. My parts kit came with three O-rings, three point seals, and three sacs. After getting the pen apart, the orginal factory O-ring and point seal were in great condition. They weren’t hard or cracked or gummy, and I decided to just keep them. (Getting that O-ring back in place after examining it was pretty comedic, though!) The sac, though… It had turned to crumbly, stubborn goo. Or gooey crumbs. Either way, it didn’t want to come out. I eventually discovered that a 22-caliber bronze bore brush was very helpful with this. I probably shouldn’t even call what I did “restoration” because all I ended up doing was replacing the sac in this pen. It was already a superbly preserved “eBay minty” specimen. Even so, I can’t help feeling a little pride that I managed to disassemble the notorious Snorkel, replace that sac and reassemble everything correctly without damaging anything or losing any parts, and I got it working as it should. One down, two to go!
  15. Hello, forum members. I have a Sheaffer Intensity Carbon Ferrari broad nib (FE0950863). I do not like its pocket clip and want to remove it. I had tried looking the inside of the cap but I could not see the screw for the clip. I have not seen any instruction of how to disassemble it. Could you please tell me how to remove the clip safely? Thank you.
  16. chromantic

    1St Vac-Fill - Any Advice, Tips?

    Any advice/tips for 1st-time Vac-fill owner? Care and feeding, inks to avoid, etc.
  17. i am having a bit of a trouble dissasembling the whole feed.. nib... section can't find any place that i could open it so i can clean the inside if anyone can please help me that would be helpful
  18. I just received a Wasp Vacuum-Fill Addipoint pen that turns out to have a broken ring clip. Pictures are shown below. Before I destroy the cap trying to remove the broken clip. Can anyone help with the following: 1. Is the jewel on this pen friction fit, or threaded? Can I just carefully pry it off? Was it glued? 2. How is the clip removed? Do I have to remove the inner cap, or just the jewel to removed it? 3. Do you know a good source for a replacement? Thanks ahead of time.
  19. L-B-Hart

    Sheaffer Pfm Iii Writing Problems

    Dear Ladies and Gentlemen of the Fountain Pen Network Not too long ago I bought a marvelous black Sheaffer PFM III. The pen came with an architect nib but was advertised as an extra-fine. Well I bought a new old stock nib unit in extra-fine. Unfortunately my pen writes only for about two pages of normal DIN A4 coppy paper before running dry. I had cleaned it two times which increased the range of my pen from about half a page to two pages. Maybe the change from Pelikan 4001 blue black to Montblanc Mystery Black helped as well. I also used a thinn wire and ran it through the snorkel tube as well. But the wire wasn't thinn enough to be able to clean the slit in the feed of the snorkel. Before continuing with difficult cleaning procedures I wanted to ask how many pages of DIN A4 coppy paper you can approximately write with your PFM's? And if you run dry does your pen still shoot ink out when you operate the filling mechanism like mine does? Best regards and wishes, sincerely, L. B. Hart
  20. I have replaced lots of pressure bars in Sheaffer Balances but a couple of years ago I obtained one with what I have since discovered is called a Shepherds hook pressure bar. The original was horribly corroded so I removed it hoping to perhaps clean it up but the corrosion was too far advanced and the small bit that makes it not just a J bar broke off. I recently obtained a NOS replacement and sought advice on how to place it. I was told to get the bar started into the slot in the end of the barrel then lift that tab with a strong dental tool and lift that "tab" into the slot. Well, that tab seems to be caught on the lip of the slot and no dental tool I have is moving it. I am open to suggestions.
  21. I have replaced lots of pressure bars in Sheaffer Balances but a couple of years ago I obtained one with what I have since discovered is called a Shepherds hook pressure bar. The original was horribly corroded so I removed it hoping to perhaps clean it up but the corrosion was too far advanced and the small bit that makes it not just a J bar broke off. I recently obtained a NOS replacement and sought advice on how to place it. I was told to get the bar started into the slot in the end of the barrel then lift that tab with a strong dental tool and lift that "tab" into the slot. Well, that tab seems to be caught on the lip of the slot and no dental tool I have is moving it. I am open to suggestions.
  22. Bremsstrahlung

    Sheaffer Brown/sepia Turn Green

    Today i was a little bored and then think of doing some wannabe-calligraphy I proceed to fill my pilot parallel with sheaffer brown/sepia and i find this kind of green. The last image a sample of how the ink used to write when I first got it.
  23. Hi! Several years ago, I got this Sheaffer ballpoint from my mother. She had kept this ballpoint for the memory of her father (my grand-dad). The white dot on the clip is missing, however this ballpoint works perfectly. I use this ballpoint with my utmost admiration. From online reference, the model is quite similar with a Sheaffer Imperial, made around the 60s or 70s. I am not so sure because the pattern is not the smooth type. It could be a 203 or a Lady Sheaffer. Can anyone please help me to identify this ballpoint? Thanks in advance. Greetings,
  24. Hello everybody Inspired by my colleague form the Polish Forum (FOP), known as smyr, I attempt to collect all the versions of Sheaffer Prelude. Why just Prelude, not other pen? First, this Sheaffer was made in several versions, so the whole collection would consist of more than thirty pens. Second, this model has been produced since 1997, so it's possible (although not so easy) to find it in a good condition, even those from first years of production. Third reason is, that Sheaffer Prelude is not a very expensive pen, so I probably won't go bankrupt. And last but not least, I like Preludes and consider them to be very good pens in their price range. Unfortunaltely collecting relatively new pens has some disatvantages. Most of them vere treated as usable, not collectible pens and that's why only few of them from the second hand are in a really good condition and some individuals (for example the regency stripe pattern) are unique. There are also only few websites where one can foun a catalogue of this pens. But I do hope I will collect the whole family . This are pens I have collected so far: http://i.imgur.com/9nJ7zRb.jpg From the left side: 9143, 377, 337, 383, 340, 349, 342, 9142, 368, 9170. A newly bought Gun Metal 9144 and black&silver 9134 missed this photo, but they will participate in the next one.
  25. My son discovered a long-lost steel-nibbed Sheaffer in the bottom drawer while cleaning up his room. He popped in a new cartridge but it didnt write. Hey dad, can you fix this? Wellll.... it was tough. The feed was completely, utterly blocked and the nib refused to be removed from its collar. I used my ink syringe to inject lukewarm soapy water. Lots of ink appeared. Still blocked. So I soaked the section in a mild detergent solution for three days, using the syringe three times a day. Still blocked. Sometimes you just have to persist and finally the pen surrendered. The feed opened up. Popped in a cartridge and boom, off to the races. (Apologies for poor pic.) I dont know what model of Sheaffer this is, but it writes very well indeed. The steel nib is very smooth and quite pleasant. The slippery steel section isnt my thing though. But as a writer, the pen is far better than I had expected. My son is always scribbling and writing, using his trusty Kaweco Sport, so this will be his second fountain pen. Im sure it will provide long years of good service.





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