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  1. Guest

    Heat Guns And Metal Overlays

    Tried deleting this post. I solved my own problem However, this subject may be useful for others. In general is it ok to use heat guns on pens with metal overlays such as silver or gold or any other metal? Would advice can you give for doing so. Especially since the metal can be so close to the area you need to heat.
  2. Back in 1998 or 1999 I wrapped up a course in computer science. To celebrate, my father-in-law gave me some money with the instruction to "spend it foolishly." Since I always follow FIL's advice, I converted the money to a Waterman "Night and Day" Le Man 200 fountain pen. It's a lovely pen with a sterling silver and black lacquer barrel and cap. Recently (I must have done something I shouldn't have, but I don't know what) I managed to break the inside portion of the section. The feed is fine, and the outer grip portion of the section is fine, but the threaded part that connects the part that surrounds the feed to the part that screws into the barrel has broken, like this: For context, here's the whole pen disassembled: Does anyone have the appropriate part(s) they'd like to sell me? Alternatively, can I swap in the right part(s) from another model? The pen was purchased in 1998 or 1999. The gift box doesn't give a model name or number, but the outer package identifies it as a Le Man 200 "Night and Day" model. Many thanks. I do love this pen and I'd like to get back to using it. -Martin
  3. Hey everyone! My first post on the forums. I've been lurking for a while, though In the beginning of November I purchased a red Esterbrook SJ on ebay. It's my first FP and I really do love it. However, I've noticed over time that hairline cracks are beginning to form at the section, and ink sometimes leaks from them. I know the pen is old and I treat it delicately, so I don't think I'm at particular fault for their formation. I don't rest my fingers near the section when writing now in fear of making them worse, but I really need to get this fixed before the cracks become worse and I'm out of my main writing instrument. What I'd really like is a replacement section, does anybody out there have one available or know where I can find one? I hope I made this post in the right place... please excuse me for being a newbie! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  4. Hey, So a while back I acquired two used Parker 45 pens, one with a 14k extra fine nib and the other with a steel Fine. Unfortunately, the 14k nib seems to have been either worn out, or badly ground...it writes as thick as a Japanese M, and has such a tiny sweet spot that it's immensely difficult to use. A tiny bit off and the pen bites into the paper. I made sure the tines are aligned, and spread them a tiny bit to make it wetter which seems to have helped a bit, but it's still not very fun to use. In addition, my other P45 kept getting ink all over the inside of the cap, as well as the section. I couldn't figure it out and packed away the pen for a while, and only took it out today. I had stored it cap off, but I now realize the whole section is warped, so the nib doesn't even point up anymore, it slants slightly. At this point I'm considering just sticking the steel nib onto the section of the other pen (with a problematic nib), but it seems to be a bit of a waste... Are there any easy ways to fix the 14k nib and/or the warped section? I'll try to post photos later. Thanks! edit: Here are some photos! http://i43.tinypic.com/295cs5u.jpg http://i42.tinypic.com/rup8og.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/1y1t87.jpg http://i43.tinypic.com/2guz91u.jpg
  5. So... I have in my possession some really tiny pens - with the cap on they are only three and a quarter inches long. They have been extremely polite so far - section came out with a very little gentle persuasion, most of old dried sac seems to be out, the feed pulled right out of the section so clearly I don't need a block to get it out - But they have no nibs. And they are tiny. It seems self-evident to me that a Sheaffer school pen nib is going to look like Goliath next to these things, just to give a sense of them, and I need nibs for them. How do I measure for such a thing? And once I have, where do I start looking for them? Thank you T
  6. Centopar

    52 1/2 V Section

    I had an accident the other day when I was removing a perished sac from a very pretty (and otherwise intact) 452 1/2 V: the nipple part of the section where the sac attaches crumbled along with the remains of the sac itself when I started to scrape the sac rubber off gently, so there's no longer a complete nipple to attach a new sac to. I need to replace the section, but the only pens I have for parts are the wrong size: the closest I have is a 52 V, but the section on that has too large a diameter. Two questions: does anyone have both a 52 1/2 and a 52 1/2 V they can compare to let me know whether the sections are identical in size? (It makes shopping for a parts pen on eBay a bit easier if they are.) And is there anyone out there who sells parts only?
  7. Hello. I have a "made in England" Waterman's W5 pen. The section has a crack and I do not think I will be able to repair it. I am thinking of looking for a "for parts" pen to cannibalise for the section. But which other Waterman pens will have sections compatible with a W5? Thank you, Richard Phillips
  8. This is the clear section with feed from a cheap knock off of the Phileas: The very small black circle in the center of the section is the only part of the feed that is accesible from the rear. The rest, the clear plastic, is all immovable, breakable section. This is the L'Etalon nib and feed. The Phileas nib/feed is the cheap knock off of the L'Etalon and is identical in shape. The tail on the feed is what projects through the tube in the section. This is the rear of the L'Et section without the feed. Everything is fixed, The tail fits in the vacant tube in the center. This is the back of a Preface, no feed. This is the rear of the Preface sect, feed in place. Only the end of the feed tail, inside the fixed tube, is accesible. This is the Man 100/200/Gent style. They have an extra piece in the nib holder. There is an extra, broken, nib holder in this picture to show the threads. This nib holder is threaded into the section with fine plastic threads. This nib holder has the small tube for the feed tail. Using a knock out on these could take out all three pieces. Excuse me for the knock off statements earlier. Someone called Kulturs a cheap knock off of the Phileas and some of my favorite pens felt insulted.
  9. MyriamV

    What Happened To This Section?

    After purchasing some pens, as well as being gifted some, all in the spirit of learning fountain pen repairs, here's my first big question mark! I opened this pen without any trouble and then set out to soak it in water to clean out any ink residue. My first surprise was how the nipple looks eaten up. It's hard to the touch on the outside and the black stuff you see on the paper towel comes from inside. I took that crumbly stuff out of there after approx. 30 minutes of soaking. At first I thought the sac had been glued inside the nipple instead of over, but that black stuff doesn't feel like an ossified sac to me. Lightly brushing my fingers over it on the paper towel is enough to make it crumble further. I left some of the black stuff soak in water overnight and it was still there this morning, so I don't think it's ink either. What could it be then? If I rub my finger hard on the section, it gives off a rubber smell, so my guess is the section is made of hard rubber. What would do this to hard rubber? I tried taking a picture inside the section but I can't make it work. It looks like there's solidified black stuff in there that was gooey at one point in time. Bonus points if you can tell me what pen it is because I have no idea! The only writing I can see is on the lever and it says "MADE IN U.S.A." http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a522/TigerLady143/FPN%20Photos/2ef7c2331e61aec49bd79780e5c40478_zps1975df16.jpg http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a522/TigerLady143/FPN%20Photos/51be3ce50770280bc1d017ab32714179_zps922361ba.jpg Here I inserted a paper towel to make the irregular edge more visible. http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a522/TigerLady143/FPN%20Photos/63200f6d1dc95f024ddf26a0eb7bbb3e_zps386e6956.jpg http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a522/TigerLady143/FPN%20Photos/49053f4b34c5edadfbd0d85063a3888d_zps57095f11.jpg http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a522/TigerLady143/FPN%20Photos/8957f300141e760d05b3ac3d571a34e6_zps207ca5bf.jpg
  10. Hi, I wanted to get some advice about adhering a section into the barrel and the type of nib. I recently won a Retro 51 Double-8 L.E. NOS fountain pen off eBay. The pen is made from cellulose acetate and I was wondering if I could use shellac to glue the section to the barrel? I don't want the shellac to discolor or be seen from the outside. I don't know if I use shellac if I could heat it up later and remove it without damaging the parts. Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations for adhesives? Secondly, the nib. Is this an early Delta Fusion nib or a full 18k nib? It really looks like it has an 18k inlaid top. I'm pretty sure its full 18k nib but I just wanted another opinion. Either way the seller never stated it as 18K and it feels and writes just like my OMAS Paragon 18k nib, so I'm very happy. Thanks, IKWarren
  11. frotz

    Cracked Section

    I have an Esterbrook J which has just developed a cracked section. Where can I get a replacement?
  12. vnam43

    Need A Junked Section

    A very kind person sent me some nibs for me to practice on. This is something I do to keep the mind busy and get better at it for my few Esties. I am currently using a very good section for nib work but I would like to put back on the desk pen where it belongs. If someone has a junked section (J or SJ size) that still has nib threads and barrel portion is fine. I can work out any issue regarding the size fit. Recently read about a person with a cracked J section. Any possibility it is still around? I'd take some glue to it and put it to good use - nib work. Tks in advance..............
  13. Harlequin

    Inlaid Nib Removal & Stub

    Ok, I need the wisdom of the Sheaffer experts. I came across this while perusing an antique store recently. I did not get it, just took exceedingly crappy cell phone pics: As you can see (I hope anyway, the pictures should be good enough to see this at least), the section is cracked to the point of missing a piece, right where the threads are. Normally I would say that means this pen is toast (at least the nib). But what I don't think can be seen as definitively or easily is that the nib is a stub. I know it is really difficult to remove an inlaid nib, but what are everyone's thought on trying a nib transplant to another pen? since this pen would cost me around $7 or so, I was thinking of trying to find another parts pen to take the nib section from and getting the two switched. Is it worth it?





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