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  1. Hello, I'm interested in learning how to make a fountain pen section that will accept a JoWo nib/feed assembly. I'd like to start by using easily available and inexpensive pen bodies, like the Jinhao x750. However, I am not married to this pen - I just know it is cheap and easily sourced. My understanding is that the #6 JoWo assembly needs m7 .4 x .5 taps. And that's about all I know, haha. Is there is a way to build a section that will work with a Jinhao x750 and accept the JoWo assembly? I'd be interested to learn about 3d printing or basic pen turning if there are low cost options. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
  2. Hello, I'm fairly new to the world of fountain pens. I've picked up about 10 now, and I keep buying more and enjoying tinkering with them. I have purchased high priced pens for my g/f (high-priced for me), like the vanishing point and the Lamy 2000. For myself, though, I can not imagine spending that amount on a pen. Up to this point, I have been doing the frankenpen thing with Jinhao pens and Anderson / Edison / Goulet nibs. I went to the Dallas Pen Show, and I purchased a Franklin-Christoph nib assembly. I had to remove the nib and feed from the F-C section / collar. However, even as just the nib and the mismatched feed it is amazing. I would love to find an inexpensive pen body that will accept the Franklin-Christoph nib assembly. It's my understanding, that it is a common size; a jowo #6 screw-in unit. So far, the most humbly priced pen body I have found has been the MrPen's Parson's Essential at about $45, plus another $15 for shipping. Any help finding an inexpensive pen body that will take the entire screw-in jowo / Franklin-Christoph nib assembly would be appreciated. I apoligize in advance if I used any incorrect terminology. Thanks!
  3. MercianScribe

    Stupid Question?

    Maybe my basic physics is lacking... Dry heat works for separating sections and barrels and all kinds of other movements you may want to do. How does it work? If I apply heat to the join of a section and barrel, surely the section expands with the heat too, as well as the barrel threads if there are any, so why doesn't it become harder to get out of the barrel?
  4. JDHudson

    Replacement Section For An Sj

    Can anyone direct me to the best place (besides eBay) to find an Esterbrook section for an LJ? I am in the process of restoring my first Estie, and the section cracked on me. I stupidly tried to take it out after removing the nib..... If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate any guidance. I am also restoring an Esterbrook that resembles an M2, but is a lever fill...it is immaculate, other than needing a new sac and general cleaning.
  5. I got this beautiful little Gladiator ringtop - French make, embossed silver band, 18k nib, but I noticed that some of the threads are separated where the barrel and section meet. I'm proposing to introduce a small amount of Gorilla Glue into the cracks via an insulin syringe, and hold it in place with dental floss. We have a fly-tying magnifier, too...where did I get all this stuff? Any other suggestions or alternatives? I could send it out but it's just come back. She's a harsh mistress, this pen.
  6. toddatkins

    Needed: Waterman Patrician Section

    Cracked and broke the section on my Patrician. Yowch. It's the red/maroon one. Can't find a replacement anywhere. The NIB and the feed are fine, I just need a section itself. Looked all around the net and check with fivestarpens, and can't seem to find a replacement. Either red or black would do! If anyone can help, it would be appreciated!
  7. I damaged the section and feed on my Lamy Vista. If someone has a section and feed from any color Safari, I would be glad to have them. I don't need a nib. I could share some ink samples with you in return, if you wish. On the other hand, if I don't get the section and feed, the barrel and cap become useless to me, so if anyone happens to need either or both of those, let me know, and if I don't get what I'm looking for, I can send them to you.
  8. Greetings! Hoping to get some advice. I have a Safari Orange Flame (orange plastic with red clip & dot button) & I love this pen. However, I noticed that there are 2 hairline cracks at the nib end of the section. There is a scant amount of ink leakage & inky fingers; otherwise, the pen writes like a dream. I'm wondering if I should try to fix this or just deal with the issue. I've looked to see about either a replacement or parts, but pricing I've seen is upwards of $150-350 USD on fleabay and I can't seem to find a replacement section. I'm a bit leery of sending it to Germany or dealing with Lamy CS in TX, as I don't really want to lose this pen. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance, Jen.
  9. truthpil

    Parker 51 Mk1 Section Types Question

    Hi Everyone, I've been trying to find a straight answer on this but have been unsuccessful. I need to replace the damaged hoods on a couple of my 1950s aerometric Parker 51s, but don't know whether to get the "recessed" hoods which have space inside for an o-ring or the non-recessed ones which simply have threading. Does it matter which kind? Do you have to replace a hood with the same type that was originally on the pen? I'm hoping it doesn't matter, because I'd rather not take the pen apart to find out what kind it has. Thanks for your help!
  10. I didn't want to call this post Filling Systems because I know that is a different component. I currently own 3 pens. A Pilot Metropolitan, which is decent, a Faber-Castell Loom, which I love, and a Pelikan M200, which I love even more. All these pens fill from the gap between the nib and the section. But I've heard that some pens fill from the breather hole. Especially Sailor pens. Is this true? And if so, is it worthwhile to own a Sailor pen/ pens that fill this way?
  11. Hello all, Just a quick word of caution ! Just found that I properly cracked the section on my M200 classic by screwing in the nib unit too much. I was only using finger power, so surprised I could do this much damage. Only noticed when my fingers started getting really inky! There doesn't seem to be a stop mechanism to prevent this, and I was trying to screw it in further to remove some creaking sounds (from too much play of the unit) when I wrote. Perhaps there was another issue at work? So just to highlight that one needs to be careful! [edited for clarity]
  12. Hi Everyone Recently my Mom gave me her USA made Parker 51 Aerometric fountain and Jotter ballpoint pen set with 270-M case. It was given to her new as a gift by my Dad before they were married in 1956. He had purchased it while serving in the USAF in England. I recall the fountain pen from my youth but it hasn't worked for as long as I can remember. When I got the set last week, I immediately started learning about the fountain pen. Soon found it was an standard Aerometric pen in Burgundy. While the pen is not dated, it was likely produced in 1955/56 since the Jotter ballpoint was introduced in 1955 (or so I understand, some sources say 1954 for the Jotter). The 12k gold filled cap is in good shape with no dents or major scratches and has the "Made in USA" impression. Unfortunately the pen was found in two pieces. Someone had apparently gotten too aggressive taking the barrel off. The section (or connector/coupler) was broken at the hood opening. Dried ink had clogged most of the pen including the barrel threads. After a lot of reading and watching YouTube videos, I was able to get it disassembled with water and cleaned up. The gold nib and other parts are in great condition. The stainless steel sac cage states "press 4 times". Getting the remaining piece of section out of the hood was a challenge. I used hot water to heat up the hood treads and pressed the point of a pick partially into the broken end. It took a few cycles and some patience but I was able to get the piece to back out without damage to the hood or feeder. Can't say this technique is good all the time but it did work. An O-ring came out with the section piece and the hood has the recess for the O-ring. The plastic feeder tube measures about 31 mm from where it enters the feeder. Hopefully I'll find a replacement section from a parts pen or other source. It looks exactly like the sold out part on David Nishimura web site. Mine measures 29mm without the sac and has 5 fine threads on the feeder end and 6 fine threads on the sac end. http://www.vintagepens.com/images/cat/parts/6704.jpg Looking to have some fun and own a few more of these great writing instruments. Cheers Rich
  13. mcorrea

    Removing The Section Of An M400

    Hello, If this has been covered before, please point me to the topic, i couldn't find it myself: Is it possible to remove the section of an M400 without breaking the pen? I recently bought an M400 that was seriously neglected, when removing the nib, the feed broke and there is a piece that is completely stuck near the bottom of the section. I want to remove it so I can use a modern M200 or M400 feed in it. I think the best way would be to remove the section from the barrel and use a nockout block to remove the piece of feed. Is it possible to do this? do you need to aply heat? BTW, it's an M400 with green stripes, in case this makes any difference. Thanks in advance, Matias
  14. digitalbrush

    Parker Vacumatic Broken Section

    Just bought a Parker Vacumatic to restore. When I went to unscrew the section from the body, I found the part of the section that had the threads has basically snapped off with only one or two thread lines left on the section itself. The part that snapped off is still stuck in the body of the pen. Trying to figure out how to get it unscrewed out of the body. Does anyone have any suggestions to secure it back onto the section? Epoxy? Gorilla Glue? Or have a recommendation on where to buy a replacement section? Much thanks for help.
  15. berc

    Pelikan M21 Disassembly Line

    Few months ago I was ecstatic to discover this vintage Pelikan (btw, thanks to everybody who helped me identify the model of pelikan in this topic: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/299779-unknown-vintage-pelikan/?do=findComment&comment=3496046). However, my hype was short-lived. It turned out that there was a rather large cut in the section, and there was ink coming out of it. While I was writing, there was some ink coming out, but it was not that big a deal, but after capping it and then uncapping it, the section was full of ink drops (there will be a picture provided how the pen looks right after uncapping it). I guess some kind of pressure (or maybe vacuum) is formed when the pen is capped, resulting in the ink coming out. So, I have few ideas in my head, how to fix this issue. 1. If I could disassemble this pen, and then cover the crack (the section) with silicon grease from the inside. With this "solution" there are few problems. First I have no idea how to disassemble the pen (and whether it is possible to disassemble, because by the looks of it, it is not possible to take the nib out or any other as in in the M800 or M100), and second, I don't know if the silicon grease will mess up the feed in some way. 2. I was thinking of just covering the outer part of the section with silicon grease, hoping that silicon grease would enter the crack and therefore stop the leaking. 3. Simply change the section part. However I do not know from where to find any spares, and as I said earlier, I am not sure if this pen could disassembled at all. Anyway, I'm using it as a dip pen, which is kind of a shame since this pen was not designed to be used that way. I would really like to find a problem to this solution. Any and every suggestion is more than welcomed. Now I will attach some pictures of the leaking and the crack, but if you would like to see more pictures of the pen just visit the link provided. P.S. I am really hoping for solving this problem so that I can make my first pen review. If I am not wrong, there isn't any review about the M21, so I think it might be an interesting review
  16. I bought my first fountain pen at an antique stores a few weeks back. I opened it right when I got home, and found that the section and feed were completely shattered, with the nib rattling around in the cap. I (with difficulty) pulled the section out and found the ink sac to be completely deteriorated, and the rubber plug at the bottom (this being the twist-filler model) to be deteriorated beyond repair. The pen is missing its clip and has a few scratches on the barrel, and the brass on the inside of the barrel where the section was fitted is greenish and slightly corroded. My question is this: how can I reconstruct this pen? It's the perfect shape and balance for me and I love the color. I've been looking up nib units from other brands that might fit (as trying to find another Ingersoll dollar pen is out of the question it seems) and the closest contender has been the Sheaffer No-Nonsense section / nib unit ensemble. Then there's the matter of the plug. I'd have to find a replacement for that as wel. The clip is gone too, but I actually like the way it looks without it. What sections / nib units could I use with my Ingersoll dollar pen? I've resigned myself to making a frankenpen, I just want a section that fits and a nib that isn't too bad. Thanks! The place where the section should be: http://i.imgur.com/HuHBNi6.jpg The complete pen: http://i.imgur.com/vRlL27Q.jpg
  17. alexro

    Сutting Thread On Section

    Thinking of restoration of Wahl Oxford with twist-fill, I want to use the donor section without thread and to cut it. Do they used some standards for threads? I measured the diameter as 0.34 inches and counted about 8 turns per 0.174 inches (see the picture). Please advice me what thread-cutting die should I look for?
  18. cadfael

    Waterman Etalon

    Hello, I need a "section" or "bloc-plume" for a Waterman Etalon. Who can provide me ? Thank you for advance.
  19. cadfael

    Waterman Etalon

    Hello, I need a section or "bloc-plume" for a Waterman Etalon. It is not repairable or replaced by S. A. V. Waterman. Who have an idea to find this part of my foutain pen ? Thank you for advance for your answers.
  20. So, this is my first fountain pen. I've been skimming through the threads on restoration, particularly the disassembly "how not to" threads. I don't want to make donor parts out of my first attempt. I am currently on day five or six attempting to part the section from the barrel so that I can see what's inside. I have been using the hair dryer method, but haven't had so much as a budge. I am very hesitant to apply too much torque. Judging by the grain in the body I can see ample opportunity for some sort of splitting. I am concerned that someone may have used shellac or <gasp!> glue, although I don't see any drips or residue. Here are a couple more photos. Any comments or advice?
  21. What are your favourite Chinese pens that have a larger section diameter? Most of the inexpensive pens I have tried have a small section that cramps my fingers together. My favorites that are comfortable are: Jinhao x450,x750, 599, Hero 100, 616 and Wing Sung 590. Any others worth trying?
  22. Ok, I looked at some discussions of how to remove the feed section and all from a Sheaffer 440 and I was going to give it a go. The feed on my NOS Sheaffer is off center to the point that it is not even touching the left side tine of the nib where the feed ends. The nib is a little scratchy and I thought this may be the problem. Well here's what happened. Of course I can remove the barrel from the section and the converter from the pen, but that's it. I cannot remove the metal section (with the threading) from the nib to get at the feed. This is the first time I have ever tried to work on a pen and there has to be some secret I am missing. I assume they are standard right handed threads into the nib and all so if anyone can give me some advise I could really use it. Thanks!
  23. Drcollector

    Cracked Threads In A 146

    I purchased a pre-owned 146 and was disappointed - to say the least - to find a crack nearly a whole centimeter long. It runs from the section through the threads up to the ink window. The crack seems to have been remedied as it appears to be covered in some kind of sealant. As of now the pen writes flawlessly, but could this be a source of future problems such as leaking? It is a 146 with a beautiful monotone 14k nib. Is this pen a vintage piece worth keeping or is it a $250 refund waiting to happen?
  24. swisspens

    Are All Targa's Sections Black?

    To all Sheaffer Targa experts around here, I have a tricky question for you. Are all Targa's sections made of black resin? I know they are all interchangeable. But what about limited editions? The section of the 1083 laqué ivoire for Harrods in 1989 (100pces) is black. Is the 1067 also black for instance? Just asking, because it appears I have in my possession a section that is not black. I'm not talking about the slimlines, as red sections are known to exist. Thanks for your answers! :-) Cheers from Switzerland. William
  25. DevrimJan

    Are 149 Sections Interchangeable?

    So, I have seen images of disassembled 149s which show the section unscrewed from the barrel at the point between the threads and the ink window. I have also seen many people wondering whether or not they will lose the ebonite feeds on their 149s if they send their pens to Montblanc for service. The reply to this is usually that they will indeed lose the ebonite feed, as the current feeder cases are incompatible with the old feeds. This has led me to wonder whether or not an old section can be placed onto a modern barrel, thus being able to retain the old feed. As an aside, how do modern Montblanc plastic feeds compare to the old ebonite feeds?





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