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  1. Greetings! Hoping to get some advice. I have a Safari Orange Flame (orange plastic with red clip & dot button) & I love this pen. However, I noticed that there are 2 hairline cracks at the nib end of the section. There is a scant amount of ink leakage & inky fingers; otherwise, the pen writes like a dream. I'm wondering if I should try to fix this or just deal with the issue. I've looked to see about either a replacement or parts, but pricing I've seen is upwards of $150-350 USD on fleabay and I can't seem to find a replacement section. I'm a bit leery of sending it to Germany or dealing with Lamy CS in TX, as I don't really want to lose this pen. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance, Jen.
  2. Hi all, I have acquired a black chased Onto 5601/46. I aim to renew certain parts, however before any heat treatment I need to know what the section and barrel are made of is it Vulcanite,Rubber or celluloid? I know the dating of these pens is slightly tricky owing to records being destroyed during the blitz. If I can unscrew the section I will be in a better position to order parts as I’m on the last lesson at the WES workshop in a few weeks time and will be able to work on it there. I would rather have the parts in anticipation. The other tools Dave Wells has. The pen does not fill and the filler knob does not tighten to fit flush with the barrel. I’m anticipating that it will need a new cork seal and a washer, nib straightened (14k 3ST) etc. etc etc. The eagle eyed of you will have spotted the non standard clip which will be replaced. What is the correct clip for the pen? See my not so good images! Thank you in anticipation, Cluedoh
  3. Marcwithac

    Leboeuf Repair Questions

    I have a LeBoeuf Unbreakable with a great #8 nib. The pen has been sitting in my collection for years and has never been restored. To my knowledge, all it needs is a good cleaning and new sac, although I would also like to tighten up the clip. So two questions for the experts: 1. Does anyone know whether the section is friction fit (in which case, I'll assume that it may have been shellacked) or is screwed on? I have tried gently nudging it both upwards and counterclockwise, but it didn't budge. 2. I would appreciate advice on how best to bend the clip closer to the cap without damaging either the clip or the cap. Thanks, MRP
  4. Hello. I have recently acquired a vintage, gold filled Waterman from the ol' bay. Here is the closed listing. I am in the process of restoring/resaccing this pen, but I need some help and suggestions from you experienced restorers or experts. (1) Any suggestions on how to remove the section from the barrel? The pen has been soaking in an ammonia and water bath for the last couple of days with the pen submerged in the bath just above the section. This has helped to remove more of the dried ink, but the section has not loosened yet. I've also briefly attempted to heat that section with a hair dryer, but I have not really done more due to fears of discoloring the section. Granted that fear may be misplaced. (2) What is the typical sac size needed for this pen? (3) The tip of the nib appears to curve down like a bird's beak a little more than I'm used to seeing in other nibs or Watermans. Is this typical for this model of pen? I've done a dip test, and I'm happy that it seems to be a flex nib. However, I'm wondering if I need to straighten the tines out a little. The pics from the listing may not be adequate so show this, but to my eyes, the curve may be more drastic than usual. Any help in the above regard is much appreciated.
  5. MajesticPens

    Help Repairing A Tiny Wahl...

    Hello! I recently picked up a little gold filled, ring-topped Wahl pen, and I mean little. It measures up to about 3 inches long capped, 2 and 3/4 inches uncapped, and just a bit over 4 inches posted. I would love to try out its soft nib (the nib is size 0), but the sac is dried and the section is not coming off, and I do not want to break it. Also, what size would the sac be? Here are some images. (the gap between the section and barrel was there when purchased)
  6. I have an open nib Sheaffer's Snorkel and there is a small crack in the section. So far the crack hasn't had any functional consequenses as would be expected of a snorkel. I was wondering if anyone had advice on how I can prevent the crack from becoming something significant.
  7. DylanKeefe

    Esterbrook Section Problem

    I just purchased an Esterbrook off eBay, and when I went to ink it up I found that the section was free rotating. Upon further inspection, the section, with nib and sac attached, could be completely removed. Could I repair this with a bit of glue, or should I try something else??
  8. stephanos

    Pelikan 100N: Repair Questions

    Many months ago, I bought two old Pelikan pens quite cheaply (they were worth it for the OB and Fine 14k nibs alone). Each pen is slightly different, but they seem to be variations on the 100N produced in the late 1940s or early 1950s (based on the nib, piston, and posts on FPN such as this one). These pens are pretty, and I'd like to be able to write with them. But I'm not prepared to invest a large amount of money in order to do so: the value to me is at least as much in the learning effect of trying to get them working again myself. So, with that in mind, I have some questions, and would be very grateful for any wisdom or tips. 1. Piston seals Each of the pens will need a new piston seal (synthetic, not cork), as they draw some water, only to leak from the back of the barrel (via the piston knob). I have been unable to find a supplier in the European Union. Can anyone point me in the right direction? (I know I can get parts from David Nishimura's site, but I want to buy from a seller based in the European Union: I am allergic to paying handling fees in addition to the inevitable P&P and taxes, plus having all the extra hassle of sorting out this additional payment.) 2. Cracked section One of the pens has two hairline cracks in the section, one on each side. It doesn't presently seem to be a huge problem - I can still screw the nib unit in and out and there is no indication that the cracks open up when I use the nib gently - but it can't be good for the pen. I'm tempted to use a little superglue, or to try some shellac. But perhaps there's a tried-and-trusted way that I have not turned up. Can anyone suggest a way of repairing the cracks? 3. Screwing the piston back in I was able to remove the piston on both pens without too much trouble. And in each case, I was lucky that the threads are still intact. But, weirdly, the piston seal on one of the pens now seems to be too big to be able to fit back into the barrel. That is, I have made no changes to the piston mechanism beyond cleaning it, but simply cannot screw it back in. I know it's a problem with the width of the seal, because when I remove the actual seal, I can reinstall the piston mechanism without any trouble. I have tried with the piston from the other pen and have had the same problem (both pistons can screw into one of the barrels, but not the other). Can anyone offer an explanation? (I don't have a good enough camera to take a photo down the barrel) 4. Going via Pelikan Finally, I saw somewhere on FPN (cannot remember where) that it is possible to send vintage pens to Pelikan and that they will repair them for a reasonable fee. That may be an option if I get nowhere on my own. Can anyone confirm that, and/or have any experience with doing so? Thank you! Edited for greater clarity in Q3.
  9. One of my recent Sheaffer acquisitions has a very hazy, fuzzy ink view, pretty much opaque unless held up to light. I believe it has been heat or environmentally exposed to make it that way. Is it possible to sand/polish off or treat the hazy part to get a clearer ink view underneath? Not a crucial thing, as the pen works superbly otherwise, but would be nice to make the view section clear again, at least a bit more so.
  10. gweimer1

    Parker 51 Vacumatic Questions

    So, I have my first Parker 51 Vacumatic, and it looks to be a Mark I from 1947. It also needs repair. I've been reading up, and checking available YouTube videos. Here is what I need some clarification on.... Is the section a screw-on, or is this model earlier than that? From what I've been reading, I should gently heat the barrel, and NOT the section, then grip the barrel and gently unscrew the section. Correct? In my digging around, I found a new, but somewhat expensive version of the old Barrett pliers. Knipex makes these, and they are sold at Sears. Parallel grip and smooth surface. http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1368&groupID=1500&artID=34171 And, I lucked out at Lowe's. I found these on sale for $10, and the larger one is another parallel pressure grip, plus the mouth is already rubber. http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/099198/099198850498.jpg
  11. Cyclopentadiene

    Uber Stuck Section - Help Request

    Hi all, Got a parker victory a couple weeks ago. Pen looked in fantastic condition but section just will not come off. Took the filler button and bar out of the back. Soaked the section. Ultrasonically cleaned it in water, soaked it in 1% ammonia, then 10%, then ultrasonic cleaned it in full strength as it just wouldn't budge... the above all over four days with drying out in between. I've tried heating the section too with a hair drier but still nothing - am I missing something here? Thanks, Badger
  12. james choi

    Repairing A Gold Filled Metal Wahl

    Hi, I have Gold Filled Wahl. I got this vintage pen and tried to disassemble it, but the section doesn't come off. I tried soaking in warm water and heating the section before trying to pull it, however, none of that worked. How do I disassemble this all metal pen? Is it harder to disassemble a fountain pen with metal sections?
  13. Hi, Some time ago I bought a nice green Sheaffer Balance lever fill in green - now the section has separated somewhat from the barrel. I understand I need shellac to fix this but I can't find a resource in the UK (checked the fora here and looked on the usual sites but nothing.) Any advice re sources of shellac and just fixing things most welcome. I guess this is a FAQ hence apologies for asking. Thanks. R
  14. Komitadjie

    Twsbi 580Al - Snap

    So, was just re-assembling my TWSBI 580AL this afternoon after pulling it down for a good cleaning between inks, and at about 3/4 seated, the threaded portion separated cleanly from the rest of the section. I'm quite familiar with how much torque to put onto parts, and this was nowhere near even "snug," much less over-torqued. I've contacted TWSBI to see about spare parts, this is less than a month of light use old! http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p603/Komitadjie/IMG_20140808_163433_zpsfe3105dc.jpg So, question for you guys: When I get the new section, how do I go about removing my lovely Pendleton BLS nib from this one, and placing it into the new one? Also, how should I go about removing the sheared-off bit of threaded plastic from inside the body without causing additional damage? I'm pondering just being very careful with a dental pick and seeing if I can get it to move. I'll update this as I make progress on the repairs!
  15. Inkyboots

    Targa Section Ring Help

    I recently acquired my first Targa, and after the initial thrill *whee* discovered that the ring that is supposed to sit between the feed assembly and the detachable collar is missing. While I am fairly certain this is an aesthetic feature, the gap is mildly distressing, and I worry that it may be important in securing the cap snugly, as in its present state the cap slides off a little more liberally than I'd like. (Pic attached in case I'm too confusing. I'm confused about the terminology.) So what I want to know is 1) Is this important, and 2a) Is there a way I can pick up a quick-fix thin metal ring-thing from a hardware store that will do the job of providing aesthetic continuity, and 2b) What dimensions would I be looking at? Thanks in advance, guys and gals. Ryan.E.M
  16. mannyboy2680

    Please Help Me Find The Missing Pieces

    Hi guys! In one of my most recent trips to my grandpa's house, he noticed the fountain pens I was carrying, and to my delight he used to have some himself! He looked around the house, and could only find this, which he gave to me: http://imgur.com/zsf3suq It is an unidentified Sheaffer 14k gold nib, possibly extra fine, which writes beautifully and takes Sheaffer cartridges. That's about all the information I have on it though. I would really really REALLY love to find replacements to the missing parts, so that I can have this beautiful pen up and running again as one of my daily writers. This holds tremendous sentimental value for me due to the fact that my grandpa gave it to me, and I'd love to fully restore it to usable condition. Any help in pointing to the right direction will be GREATLY appreciated. thanks in advance guys!
  17. Hello all, I have a green Esterbrook SJ that I got of the bay and re-sacced and all. But it leaked from the base of the section. Looking closely there is a crack in the section (perhaps someone over-tightened the nib). So if someone has a replacement section they can sell me, please drop a note on this thread. I have no idea what a section should go for. Thanks! cheryl
  18. Hi All, In need of some advice. I have a busted feed and section for a #2 Waterman nib. It came from my 14k solid gold Edward Todd ringtop (lever fill). The crazy thing is it is a screw-in section. I am not sure if this is original? Anyway, I would like to replace the feed and section and get the little guy up and running again, but I cannot find a screw-in section and feed. My thought was to find a similar (same) pen and swap out the feed/section, but I do not know what to look for on the cheap and not in the mood to spend hundreds on the same pen to fix this one . Any suggestions on how I can get this little feller going again? Can add pictures if you think it would help. Thanks in advance!
  19. Champagne-N-Beer

    Vintage Pen Parts - How To Find?

    Hi Everyone - on the advice of a fellow FPN'er, I have moved my question to the "repairs" section - can anyone help? Hi All, Hope everyone is doing well! New to FPN and pen collecting - what a great hobby! I need some help and was hoping y'all could assist. I have started getting into repairing my vintage pens (been picking up cheapies here and there) and am having trouble finding parts. Currently I am looking for replacement parts such as: -- Conklin Crescent Mark 50 cap -- Waterman #2 feed/section from a 14k solid gold Edward Todd ringtop -- Parker Lady Duofold "big red" ringtop cap -- Waterman 52 BCHR barrel and cap -- Waterman Thorobred red and green veined cap -- Parker Vacumatic major cap, jeweled, golden I have searched and searched the internet and the "bay" but it seems likes these parts are kept by folks who are collectors/sellers. Anyone have any idea of how I can find the missing parts to my pens? Any feedback is greatly appreciated - it has been a frustrating month or so of constantly searching without any luck . Best, Champagne-N-Beer
  20. Hi All, Hope everyone is doing well! New to FPN and pen collecting - what a great hobby! I need some help and was hoping y'all could assist. I have started getting into repairing my vintage pens (been picking up cheapies here and there) and am having trouble finding parts. Currently I am looking for replacement parts such as: -- Conklin Crescent Mark 50 cap -- Waterman #2 feed/section from a 14k solid gold Edward Todd ringtop -- Parker Lady Duofold "big red" ringtop cap -- Waterman 52 BCHR barrel and cap -- Waterman Thorobred red and green veined cap -- Parker Vacumatic major cap, jeweled, golden I have searched and searched the internet and the "bay" but it seems likes these parts are kept by folks who are collectors/sellers. Anyone have any idea of how I can find the missing parts to my pens? Any feedback is greatly appreciated - it has been a frustrating month or so of constantly searching without any luck . Best, Champagne-N-Beer
  21. http://www.jetpens.com/Pilot-Vortex-Fountain-Pen-Fine-Nib-Clear-Green/pd/10539 Thanks in advance for help, tips, or ideas.... Glenn
  22. jmccarty3

    Waterman's Patrician Section Loose

    I have a beautiful turquoise vintage Patrician in near-mint condition. I soaked it in cold water overnight to clean it before changing inks, and now the section has come loose from the body. The pen writes well and does not leak. What can I do to reattach the section?
  23. perth

    Parker 100 Nib Section

    After getting access to a credit card, I went on eBay and bought a Parker 100 (my grail pen). In my haste I had not taken a good look at the photographs and had later found what seems to be a defect. Since it was shown in the post, I don't think I would be eligible for eBay/PayPal buyer protection. As it is my grail pen which I had wanted for so long, I am somewhat devastated by this revelation. My question is: does anybody know of an online store or have a Parker 100 nib section that they are willing to sell? I've seen other similar posts that have been resolved, but I don't know how many are left out there that I would be able to find.
  24. Guest

    Heat Guns And Metal Overlays

    Tried deleting this post. I solved my own problem However, this subject may be useful for others. In general is it ok to use heat guns on pens with metal overlays such as silver or gold or any other metal? Would advice can you give for doing so. Especially since the metal can be so close to the area you need to heat.
  25. I picked up a new (to me) Esterbrook recently: a blue J with a 2668 nib in really great condition: no cracks or noticeable scratches, has a clear, strong imprint, good nib, new sac, etc. The grip section is very discolored though-- it goes from black, to off-black, to olive green. Is there any way to re-blacken the section safely? If not, where's a good source for replacement sections? I've done some cursory searches on Ebay but I'm not sure if I'm looking at the right items. Thanks!

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