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  1. Hi my hobby friends! A few months ago I finished the restoration of a Sheaffer Balance Oversize in black and pearl like this one. After resacking, full cleaning and so on I filled it with ink (Edelstain Pelikan Garnet and Pelikan 4001 black&Blue in other occasion). When I opened the cap at the next day I noticed that the top of the section was fulled of wet ink. It's important to say that after filled the pen, I drop out a few drops of inks and clean the excess of ink in the feed, as always do. This problem is consistent: that happened a few times already. Other things to consider are : 1) The leaking doesn't occur when I have the pen in my hand (but sometimes í note an excessive' ink flow) >>>> so I didn't suspect of a 'too big sac' issue. I let you a picture below, just to be sure. 2) I suspect that the leak occurs in the section/feed/nib interface because often I see this zones a little flooded of ink (see photos below) 3) I made a little experiment removing the section and the cap (that is: leaving just the section with the sac, nib and feed) and replacing the cap with a clear plastic small flask (getting sure that the flask inner walls doesn't touch the nib) >>>> in this condition (with the sac filled of ink, obviously) I didn't see any ink leak for several days. 4) After a few measurements I'm sure that the inner cap inner walls doesn't touch the nib surface. 5) During restorations I removed the feed and nib for a deep deep cleaning and polishing (yeah... I know that this practice is not recommended). I made sure to leave the feed and nib in the same position they were originally 6) This leak or 'burp' problem occurs with the pen upside or even in horizontal position. 7) Sometimes a few days passed without any burp but then.... happen. So, I'm disoriented here... have you any recommendation or suggestion? What do you recommend to fix this technical issue? You're my last hope, hahaha. BTW: In the last picture I saw that with the system upside down, the ink doesn't fall to the feed. It is a surface tension issue between the silicone sac and the ink? How can that be fixed? Best regards!!
  2. I have two Waterman E’Talon pens, which I have really enjoyed, plus an extra section and point. Problem is they all leak around the half ring clutch that secures the cap. I was able to dissemble one of the sections and believe the problem is the o-ring that fits above that ring (it’s red/orange). I’m thinking of using silicone to try to create a seal there. But that’s not the problem that is driving me crazy. I can’t dissemble either of the two other sections. I’ve tried hot water and physical pulling, but it won’t com apart. From the section I have apart, I know they do not screw, but push on. I am assuming there’s some kind of adhesive involved. To clarify, I can pull out the nib and feed, but the plastic piece that hold then won’t come out from the black plastic grip section. That, in turn, will not pull out of the metal piece that the barrel screws on to and that secures the offending clutch half ring. Any ideas about loosening things up?
  3. PeterR-C

    Osmiroid 65

    At an antiques fair I was recently GIVEN a fountain pen by a stall holder who just wanted rid of it. Couldn't say no, could I? And of course Ive got to get it back into working order... It is an Osmiroid, a brand I remember from school, long ago. Research shows it is an Osmiroid 65. It is not a lever filler. I've ordered a converter from ebay. The nib says OSMIROID ROLATIP MEDIUM SOFT ENGLAND, and looks to be in perfect order. The problem is the section. When unscrewed it is badly bent - see photo. All in all the pen has had a lot of abuse. There are tooth marks on the section, as if someone has tried to open it with their teeth. Also the bottom of the barrel is irregular, looks like a knife has been inserted in an attempt to open the pen. Can anyone tell me how to separate the nib from the feed? And, more importantly, where can I get a replacement section? There don't appear to be any on ebay. NB this is the normal section, not the long cradle-shaped thing for holding a calligraphic nib. I gather Osmiroid nibs fit Esterbrook sections. Does this mean that an Esterbrook section would take the Osmiroid nib and fit the Osmiroid barrel? All suggestions gratefully received. Peter
  4. Wahl aficionados, I recently got a Wahl Gold Filled Pen, frequently referred to as a "Coronet" (67S97), which is in the process of restoral. Step one is always inventory, followed by disassembly. I was actually surprised to learn that I was not the first person in the pen. The dried out sac was clearly labelled Esterbrook. I managed to pull the splined assembly out of the body without cracking the ink view portion (yeah! take the minor wins). Now I want to remove the section out of the splined ink view portion. I have pictures below. One of them is a zoom of the nib, section and splined ink view part. In the zoomed picture, There is an arrow drawn where I believe the joint for separating is located. Could someone confirm it for me? I am unsure if it is a press fit, or a screw-in fit. If someone know the answers to these two questions, it would be a great help. There have been so many of these all metal Coronet pens ruined during repair, that I don't want mine to join the scrap pile with it's brothers.
  5. JonnyTex

    King Of Pen Section Swap?

    I have an ebonite King of Pen I love. Anybody know if I could swap its section (the section, itself, is plastic) with a Pro Gear King of Pen? I'm thinking if I were to get another King of Pen down the road, I would probably want a Pro Gear since the ebonite model looks just about like the 1911 KOP. It seems logical to me that all the KOP sections would be identical (except for color, etc.) Thanks!
  6. Hello! I purchased a Gothic gold Waterman 52 1/2V from Ebay some time back. Upon opening the package, I was greeted with a strong smell similar to paint thinner. I sighed and immediately checked the section and barrel. Sure enough, I saw a clear ring of some sort of sealant between the two. The smell has not dissipated much a few months later, and I am still unsure whether it is the sealant or someone has tried to soak the section in a solvent. The hard rubber still has its black sheen, so it couldn't have been something that would cause it to go dull. After reading a bit on this forum and some other pen restoration websites, I tried carefully heating the barrel with a hairdryer (I am fairly new to fountain pens and do not yet have a heat gun). The section still wouldn't pull out of the barrel. I do not know whether I am not applying enough heat or whether the sealant has a higher melting temp than the hard rubber. Anyone have other ideas for what the sealant could be or what to do? Should I try again with heat and not be so skittish this time? Just send it to a professional?
  7. koulour

    Aurora Ipsilon Sections

    Hello everybody! I have searched but have not found something similar, so forgive me if a question like this is already answered. I kindly call for the help of the knowledge and wisdom of fpn on the Aurora Ipsilon (older style, three chrome rings on cap band) sections. In more detail, I would like to ask if a section of a fountain pen can be used with the barrel AND the cap of a rollerball. I have a nib that I absolutely love, and a nice shop has a great deal on a argento body r/b. It would be a very nice result to get my nib+section to work with the silver body+cap after I "toss away" the r/b section. Unfortunately, the deal is not good enough to justify the risk and try for myself, since if they don't work together, I have no use for the rollerball. I warmly thank in advance everybody for their replies. See you later people!
  8. probablyobsessedwithpenstuff

    Penbbs Section Swapping

    Does anyone know if you can swap the grip sections of a penbbs 309 with the 323 as i love my 309 but I like the look of the section on the 323 and the clip-less cap and i wondered if anyone who had both had already tried to put them together? Or if someone could give me the thread diameters so i can compare them. Yes i know they aren't expensive but im still fairly new (only a year) and im a student so i really have to justify buying anything, otherwise i would just take a chance and go for it.
  9. I have a Schaeffer Balance II, purchased years ago and the tube running through the back of the section was damaged. Has anyone had this happen to them? Any chance this can be repaired or replaced for a reasonable sum?
  10. Hello Friends and Pen Enthusiasts, I plan to manufacture "Luxury HandMade Fountain Pens". I want your suggestions with reference to the following:- 1. Which Material would you suggest I should use? a.) ebonite b.) teak wood c.) resin d.) any other then please suggest. 2. Which NIB is the best in the world. ? a.) Schmidt b.) Bock c.) Jowo d.) any other then please suggest. 3. Which material nib is the best? a.) Steel b.) Gold c.) any other then please suggest. 4. Which is the best ink feeding system in the world? 5. What kind of material should be used for the Clip ? -- a.) Brass b.) any other then please suggest. I sincerely await your inputs or suggestions of any or all of the above points. Incase you believe that I may have missed something crucial or I need to be aware of then please feel free to let me know. In the event you want to suggest something which is different then my thought process mentioned above then too please feel free to share your thoughts. Though I am at an advanced level of conceptualisation, my intent is to create a "TRUE LUXURY PEN" which can be handed down from generations to generations and is extremely high on quality. All Suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Vikas
  11. RCIfan

    Esterbrook J Loose Section

    I just bought an Esterbrook J that's in pretty good condition. Unfortunately, the section is loose from the barrel and is able to spin and be removed without much force at all. None of my other Esties have this problem, so I'm wondering two things. A) Is this fixable? If so, what is the best way to repair this problem?
  12. I know there was another thread about thicker sectioned pens but the OP specifically wanted pens that were under 50 dollars and I didnt want to hijack it into something the exact opposite of what they were looking for. The range for comfortability for me would be 10.5mm - 13mm and I would say the upper end of what I would spend would be ~600 usd. Right now I already have a Pelikan M800 and a Montblanc 146, but i kinda find the Pelikan to be a little more comfortable because it flares out at the end of the section. I am not looking for a pen with a steel nib, not to say that they are not as good at writing, but of course like all things in this hobby, it's a personal preference. So far I've looked at the Homosapiens and I am not sure if I like how shiny the finish gets after some use, along with the quality control issues that I've heard about (though some say its blown out of proportion, but as someone who has never bought one I cannot say). Im kinda lukewarm about demonstrators (don't really like the "clear" versions but do like tinted versions like Pilot Custom 823) Here are a few that I am considering but I would also like some more recommendations to scope out what would be most aesthetically pleasing and a good workhorse (I am planning on using this pen for all my notes and work at school, not worried about thieves 1) most people im my classes arent really interested in my pens besides the "wow your pens look so fancy" 2) I keep watch of my pen case the entire day) Pilot Custom 823Visconti Homo SapiensPineider La Grande Bellezza Honeycomb (Can anyone with this pen tell me how the finish feels against your hand when you're writing?)Aurora 88
  13. I'm looking for a reliable daily writer, an inexpensive - let's say under $50 - fountain pen with a section that's 10.5mm-12.4mm in width. As I continue to learn more about fountain pens I find that I like thicker sections. My favorite nib still has to be on my Metropolitan M, but the 8.4mm section (acccording to the GouletPens site) is so narrow it's painful for me two write more than a half page with it, so had to I clean it out & put it away. My main writers are a bunch of F and M Preppy and Plaisirs, and a M Kakuno. Their 10mm sections' widths are just about the minimum I can write with for long periods, but I'd love something a bit thicker. (I'mfine with light pens though, and I prefer to write unposted.) My favorite-feeling pen I've used is the Jinhao 159, which GouletPens notes has a 12.4mm section. But I've had terrible, repeated issues with all my Jinhaos drying out and hard-starting (using various inks), as well as occasional feed problems with two different replacement Jowo B nibs. If I could get a Jinhao 159 that didn't dry out I'd be in heaven, but the pen's design (and the cheap plastic feeds, which sometimes reseat the nibs after continued use) are design issues that I don't think can be avoided. From my research one possible pen option I came across that's close to my needs might be Monteverde's Giant Sequoia, which is a bit outside my budget, and bigger/heavier than I'm used to. Azizah's review says the section is 10.8mm which might could work well for me. Are there any decent thicker-grip pens I should consider in my price range?
  14. tvradio

    Eco-T's Triangular Grip

    I'm a lefty with an oddly angled grip, where the nib ends up aimed almost at my right shoulder when I write. With the placement and angle I hold my pens Lamy triangular grips just don't work for me. However the Pilot Kakuno does, because the nib unit can be rotated (unlike the Lamy). So: is the nib unit in the Eco-T set in place in relation to the section, or like the Kakuno can it be rotated (slightly) to accommodate my weirdo writing style?
  15. I recently obtained a Moonman M2. I am rather enamored with it. But I have come across one problem. There is an inner section and the ink seems to leak into the space between the inner and outer section. I've found some reviewers that have removed it but they don't discuss or show how they did it. Does anyone know? Without doing so, it's really difficult to completely clean the pen. Thanks!
  16. em_the_pen

    Removing Section Of A Button Filler

    So I wanted to get into pen repair and tinkering so I bought a couple cheap lots of vintage pens on ebay. Most I've been able to disassemble completely so far. However, this one is a bit of a struggle. I can't seem to get the section to even think about budging. I have managed to get the pieces of the dried sack out but the section remains fixed. I've also tried removing the button and have yet to succeed but I can't replace the sack with the section locked in place like it is anyways. Infuriatingly, my hairdryer has not been of any help at all either. If anyone has any tips or ideas, I would greatly appreciate them. Thanks!
  17. Has anyone ever figured out how to safely remove the feed from the section of the Preppy/Plaisir so it can be cleaned and dried faster? In some SBRE Brown video he mentioned that he had been utterly unable to remove the fin-feed from the clear section of either his Preppys or Plaisirs, said that as cheap pen you have to deal with it, but complained that it took 'forever' for it to dry inside its clear tube section after rinsing it out. Well, I just got my first Plaisir (light and plastic-y yes, but the .05 writes very nicely - more smoothly than my .03 Preppy) and I see exactly what he was talking about. A comparison between a normal fountain pen feed to the Preppy/Plaisir (from this old post): http://www.pbase.com/liverman/image/141447107/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/liverman/image/141447688/original.jpg I really don't want to have to wait 'forever' for my pen to be ready to be re-inked. Has anyone gotten the feed out of the section easily?
  18. NGiducos

    Parker 61 Help

    Will a hero 330 section fit into a parker 61?
  19. NGiducos

    Parker 61 Help

    Will a hero 330 section fit into a parker 61?
  20. Hello, Would anyone have any tips on removing the section from a Sheaffer Junior 275? I have tried soaking the pen, applying heat, and using section pliers, but the section just won't budge for me. Please see pics for reference. I currently have the nib and feed removed for cleaning since I couldn't get the section off to replace the sac.
  21. ArdentlyAuthentic

    Ink In My Section!

    Hi! I'm new to the fountain pen community, and am so excited to be here! I recently bought a Monteverde Monza demonstrater pen and I've noticed that there is a lot of ink in the barrel. I've taken the pen apart and I can't figure how to get the ink out. It is really frustrating me as it both ruins the pen's aesthetic and makes me wonder whether there is a flaw in the pen. Could anyone let me know how I can fix this?
  22. MercianScribe

    Stupid Question?

    Maybe my basic physics is lacking... Dry heat works for separating sections and barrels and all kinds of other movements you may want to do. How does it work? If I apply heat to the join of a section and barrel, surely the section expands with the heat too, as well as the barrel threads if there are any, so why doesn't it become harder to get out of the barrel?
  23. Hello, I'm interested in learning how to make a fountain pen section that will accept a JoWo nib/feed assembly. I'd like to start by using easily available and inexpensive pen bodies, like the Jinhao x750. However, I am not married to this pen - I just know it is cheap and easily sourced. My understanding is that the #6 JoWo assembly needs m7 .4 x .5 taps. And that's about all I know, haha. Is there is a way to build a section that will work with a Jinhao x750 and accept the JoWo assembly? I'd be interested to learn about 3d printing or basic pen turning if there are low cost options. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
  24. Hello, I'm fairly new to the world of fountain pens. I've picked up about 10 now, and I keep buying more and enjoying tinkering with them. I have purchased high priced pens for my g/f (high-priced for me), like the vanishing point and the Lamy 2000. For myself, though, I can not imagine spending that amount on a pen. Up to this point, I have been doing the frankenpen thing with Jinhao pens and Anderson / Edison / Goulet nibs. I went to the Dallas Pen Show, and I purchased a Franklin-Christoph nib assembly. I had to remove the nib and feed from the F-C section / collar. However, even as just the nib and the mismatched feed it is amazing. I would love to find an inexpensive pen body that will accept the Franklin-Christoph nib assembly. It's my understanding, that it is a common size; a jowo #6 screw-in unit. So far, the most humbly priced pen body I have found has been the MrPen's Parson's Essential at about $45, plus another $15 for shipping. Any help finding an inexpensive pen body that will take the entire screw-in jowo / Franklin-Christoph nib assembly would be appreciated. I apoligize in advance if I used any incorrect terminology. Thanks!
  25. Hi everyone! I recently got my first Delta Pen … I got lucky, and had the chance to get a Delta Unica pen in a very good condition, but … After I tried to draw out the nib, the grip section got loose and now I have a resin tube (formerly grip sectin) and the nibhousing with nib and feed. I do not see any rests of glue or something else, so I am thinking about, how to fix the grip to the nibhousing again, because, if I do not fix it, the grip section constantly turns around … Should I use a strong adhesive, to glue the resin tube to the nibhousing or should I just use kind of a schellack??! Perhaps, here are some Delta pros that might help … Best wishes and happy writing! Daniel





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