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  1. Hi! I just purchased a Waterman w3 and a Conway Stewart 75 on Ebay ; the bladders need to be changed, but I don't have the pens yet, and I want to order bladders now so that I might receive everything around the same time. I looked for the dimensions online and did a search on this website, but I couldn't find for sure what size sac I should use. Some recommended sizes 16 or 18 for the w3, and one recommended the 18 for the CS 75. Is the sac size a bit flexible, do you think for example I could order sizes 17 for both pens?
  2. PaperQueen

    Sacs: Silicone Vs. Rubber?

    Has anyone tried silicone sacs in an Estie? http://www.vintagepens.com/catill_sacs_seals.shtml From the description, it sounds like they'd have a bit more longevity, but then again, I'm a complete newbie at this whole "take it apart and put it together" thing. Also, as long as I have your attention.... What's the best resource for purchasing sacs, talc, shellac, etc.? My newest Estie just arrived with a loose nib section (so loose it falls out). From what I've gleaned in other posts, the solution is to apply a thin coat of shellac, let it dry overnight, then try to pressure fit the section into the body, so....gotta get my hands on shellac. Esterbrooks = Tinker Toys for pen junkies
  3. Well, I just came across this snorkel that gave the the biggest challenge so far. It was badly rusted inside, so I should pat my shoulder for opening up the pen and not damaging the parts. It was after a week of effort, anyway. Then I thought it should be just fine from there, until...I heated up snorkel to remove the tube and sac section to re-sac. In my past experience, the tube and sac section are pretty tightly connected and using moderate force it would give way..but not this stubborn pen. I just pulled the tube out! Now I am scratching my head and don't know how to get the sac section out. Any help?
  4. Hello there, I want to share this recent find I made while restoring Waterman Lady Patricia: a nicely appointed Waterman Sac. The pen was made in Canada sometime during 1930s but the sac is more likely from 1950's as the pen was used extensively (judging from the wear) and so probably resaced a few times. Also the sac is not brittle like the early sacs from 1920s Watermans. This one is hard as a stone. Still, I might be quite wrong and the sac may be from 1930s or 1940s (or even much later). Anybody else has come across such a Waterman sac? Most of the original Waterman sacs I have seen have had very plain and rather small inscriptions on them - nothing like this: Enjoy! Zed
  5. rachels

    Replacing Sac In Doric

    I have a beautiful Doric pen that I would like to eventually sell but it has a lever that won't budge, and an internal rattle. I'm guessing it needs a new sac. Does anyone have a step by step for taking the pen apart and replacing the sac or can you recommend a good repair person? See photo below of pen.
  6. henkc

    Ink Sac For An Osmiroid 65

    This morning I picked up an Osmiroid 65 which I bought through a local auction site. I enquired about the condition of the mechanism and was told that it was working fine, which appears to be the case, except that there is no sac. The nib seems to be in good condition and the section and body aren't gummed up. I have two questions as to repairing this: The section screws into the body but is very stiff after it's screwed in most of the way. What is the best way to loosen this up? It feels as though it needs a good cleaning of the threads cleaning (if it was a piece of Land Rover, I would be cleaning up threads with taps and dies, but this may be a bit extreme on what feels like relatively old flimsy plastic). The pen came without an ink sac (which may be a blessing in disguise). Where is the best place to get one. I doubt I will be able to find one in South Africa, so I'm looking at importing.Are there any other tips and tricks I should be aware of? Henk
  7. New_Falcon

    Expected Life Of A Sac And J Bars?

    In the Ink For Esties thread Bruce in Ocala, Fl said that saturated ink will lessen the life over time of a latex sac. This raised a question in my mind that if you have a Esterbrook should it be assumed that you should replace the sac every so often and if that's the case what would 'often' be? I've just picked up two Esterbrooks and so am reading as much as I can about them and wondering generally how long should I expect the j bars and sacs to last.
  8. khop

    Crest Triumph Question

    Hey guys I have an oversized crest triumph and I was wondering, for future reference replacing the sac, how is the section affixed?
  9. Hi, what ingredients are involved in sac manufacture please? My interest stems from wishing to determine whether there would be any accidental synergistic reactions that may occur if a specific additive were added to an ink used in it. Any known ingredients/product knowledge would be most helpful please including things like powders (talc?) or any synthetic or natural products used in manufacture or installation (shellac?). Yes, I understand the risks of contemplating such an experiment (potential dead pen). Experiments in less valuable pens are underway (search for "glitterati" in the ink forums) but haven't yet extended to sacced pens. With grateful thanks.
  10. I purchased a NOS pen from eBay. The pen has been fitted with a new sac. It is a button filler The pen initially writes quite wet. However, during extended writing (with no pauses to let the ink dry in the nib) it grows progressively drier until it will eventually not write at all. To get it going again I need to shake the pen, or store it nib down for a while. I have already flushed the pen to no avail. I am guessing it isn't a problem with the nib and feed fit, or the tines, as the pen writes very wet and readily at first. The only explanation I can think of is that there is something preventing the ink from flowing from the sac to the feed at a reliable rate. I am using Sailor Oku-yama which is a very free-flowing ink. What could cause this? Is there anything I can do without taking the pen apart? I have already contacted the seller, who is extremely helpful, but I would rather not send the pen back to him if it can be avoided. Thanks!
  11. GLBizzarro

    Help With A Parker 21!

    I don't know fountain pens too well, how would I take the ink sac out of a Parker 21 fountain pen to put in a converter? If this cannot be done, how do you use a fountain pen with an ink sac and no lever?
  12. mariom

    What Sac Size Do I Need?

    I have a couple of pens which need new sacs and I'd like to have a go at doing it myself. This is at least in part driven by the cost of such repairs in Australia - the only local site which quotes prices is asking $45 for a re-sac - and partly because I'm a tinkerer. Both sections are out of the barrels and the barrels are clear of residue. There are plenty of sites in the US or the UK offering the necessary supplies, but the postage costs involved mean I'd like to get things right before ordering. I'm leaning toward the starter kit from fountainpensacs.com , but I'd like to top up the order with the sacs I'm likely to use so that I still have a complete kit to choose from in future. The pens are an Osmiroid 65 and an Onoto 1332. The nipple diameter on both is near enough to 6.85mm, which I calculate to be just over 17/64". The internal barrel diameter of both pens is around 8.3mm at the section. Does this mean I need a size 17 sac, or should I go a size smaller? Also, if anyone knows of a good supplier of repair parts in Australia, I'd be happy to hear of it. Thanks Mario
  13. I just won an auction for a nice vintage Easterbrook J. Before I pay for it I would like some advice from some more experienced people. I know nothing about replacing ink sacs and such so would buying this pen be a good idea? Are vintage ink sacs cheap? Are they easy to replace? The seller says he has never used it. Here ia a link to the pen: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271729930323
  14. I got and Esterbrook FP (I guess it is a J) in a flee market in Mexico City for about 15 dollars more than ten years ago. I have not given it any serious use because after a while it started to drip, and besides it has a somewhat scratchy feeling. Lately, after my addiction for pens increased (look at this if you want to see why: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/267147-why-i-am-here-or-just-another-tragic-story/), I decided to give it another try. The other day I saw that it had the tines misaligned, so I aligned them. Now it writes really smooth, but it still drips, and it also writes quite wet and the nib is not so fine for my taste. Well, only yesterday I discovered that the nib could be screwed out and be changed. I just had no idea! This discovery brought my view of this pen to another level, and I am decided to enliven it! Of course it needs a resac or whatever repair to control the dripping. Then, and this is my main question, I would like to hear suggestions about Esterbrook extra fine nibs or finer! Finally, anybody has an idea about what to do with this 1461 nib? It was already curved when I got it. I thought it was normal. Now I am almost sure it is not. I guess someone did the curving trying to control the dripping or the wetness... (The barrel reads "Esterbrook. Hecho en México. Marca reg.". The nib is 1461 and says "Made in U.S.A.") Open to your consideration! A pair of photos follow...
  15. Hi there, I have a number of pens with clear silicone type sacs which initially makes it really easy to check the level of ink remaining (unlike the black sacs where I don't have clue!). However, I use a lot of Diamine inks: purple, imperial blue, sapphire blue, dragons blood, orange, and (yes I know) Onyx Black ! Unfortunately the normal process of soaking for several days hardly cleans the ink stains on the clear sacs. The situation gets progressively worse, as if dye is invading the silicone's deeper layers - thus it becomes much harder to see where the ink level is. Has anyone come across a decent method of cleaning this type of ink sac which doesn't involve chlorine bleach (which I don't like because of the residual stench)? Would be interesting to know. Have a nice day. Cheers, E. I
  16. ARVA

    Almost Cracked Sac

    Hi, I have an old Parker squeeze converter which at first sight seems to work well, holds a lot of ink and is not leaking. However when I squeeze it the rubber has some cracks in one part , the rubber is not yet cracked completely but sooner or later it will. I can still use it and it also feels flexible. I was thinking if there is any preventing work or something. Can I melt the rubber with the hot red point of a needle so the crack is no longer spreading ? Or can I glue it somehow? Thank you!
  17. Chris Szustak

    Pen Ink Sac

    Hello! I recently received several vintage pens. One of which is a vintage Wahl-Eversharp. The ink sac was pretty bad, so I removed it. My question is if anyone knows what the model of this pen is, as well as what size sac I should be using to replace it? Thank you !!!
  18. I've just become the proud owner of a vintage CS which needs a new sac. I'm quite prepared and happy to do this work myself and while waiting for the arrival of my new pen I'm trying to amass the equippment which I'll need. It would be a great help if someone could tell me which size of sac the Dinkie 550 takes so that I don't have to wait too long to write with my new baby. Thanks in advance for any help or advice you can give about sac repair. I've been watching videos and lurking here to pick up tips, but anything you can offer by way of helpful words will be appreciated.
  19. Dear All, I have the following two pens that I am trying to get into working condition. The first is marked "Swan" self-filler Mabie Todd 7 Co. Ltd. Made in England on the barrel, with S-F 210 C at its base and SF2 on the part the nib sits in. The nib is marked Swan 2 14Ct Mabie Todd Co. Ltd The second, which appears to have an italic nib is marked "Swan" self-filling pen Mabie Todd and Co. Ltd. Made in England on the barrel, with 2 S. F-MBRD at its base and also SF2 on the part the nib sits in, while the nib itself says Mabie Todd and Co. N.Y. 2 Neither has a sac and one is missing its cap. Can anyone advise me on where I might buy sacs for these pens, and what size? Is there any chance of finding a cap? Is there a particular way they ought to be treated on reassembly? Both are also quite faded. Many thanks for your help and sorry if these questions are ignorant or have obvious answers already presented (I did a bit of a search, but couldn't quite find what I was looking for). Sorry also for the wretched picture. regards, Ben
  20. Is there a true difference?
  21. Is there a typical sort of chart anyone has compiled as to how much ink the various sac sizes should hold?
  22. A friend has a Swan fountain pen in the family that needs re-saccing. Does anyone know of a good repair person who could possibly do this for them? They are in the Edinburgh/Glasgow-ish part of Scotland. (I realize the whole concept of E/G part is going to strike strangely - what I mean is that they could easily get to a pen person in either city, or any place near either city.) Failing that, who would be the best person to send this pen to by mail, if it's got to go that way? Thank you very much. I treasure the friend, the friend treasures the pen, any help is appreciated. T
  23. I have a friend asking me to repair her grandmothers Waterman 452, a hard rubber pen with a lovely sterling silver filigree overlay. I can do the sac and cleaning of the pen but my concern is how do I properly remove the section from the pen to replace the sac considering it is hard rubber. Any advice is be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  24. Hello, I tried looking around for a related topic, but couldn't find one that answered my question...If I store a vintage pen, after I clean it thoroughly of course, and it has a rubber sac (Eversharp Skyline, Esterbrook J etc) or a rubber diaphragm (Parker Vacumatic, "51" Vac), is there any danger that the rubber will ossify and crumble after a period of time spent in storage? Thank you. Cheers, Dragos
  25. Hello there, I just started writing with fountain pens and bought a Namiki Falcon with a fine point and some flexibility. The other day I rediscovered this little Morrison ring top pen that I acquired at a sidewalk sale in Berlin, Germany a couple of years ago. I tested the pen and it seems to write just fine but I have a few questions about restoration that can hopefully be answered here. There is information about this pen company on the internet but I did not find any technical data. 1. I need to install a sac but I also don't want to buy an entire collection of them to find what size fits. Can someone tell me approximately what size sac this pen would need (I'm just looking for a ballpark size) and wether or not the sack should have a neck? 2. Am I right in assuming that because the pen writes fine that I don't have to do anything to the nib/feed/section assembly? I feel confident I can replace the sac but I really don't have the skills yet to extract the nib/feed. 3. Is there anything else that I should do to this pen to bring it up to snuff? the inside of the barrel is clear of old rubber but it has some residue on it and the inside of the cap has some old ink but nothing badly crusted. Thanks, Scribe16 On the back of a standard business card: the Morrison on the left and the Falcon on the right (note my unrelaxed, shaky hand ).

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