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Showing results for tags 'restoration'.
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Hello all. I recently purchased my first Parker Vacumatic from eBay for the princely sum of £40. I assumed the pen not to be in a working condition with the intention of taking it to Henry Simpole in London for him to repair the mechanism(he charges around £40). And in due course when I received the pen its Speedline filling mechanism was completely shot - the button does not move at all, as expected. However one thing that was not evident in the poor quality pictures from the listing is that the nib is in fact not an original Parker nib but a "Phillips Oxford" 14ct gold nib! Some reading has told me that this is a Mabie Todd/Swan nib from a repairer's shop in Oxford Street from some time ago. It would seem to me that I've been conned - the nib is not an original Parker one and I'm not sure how much it'll cost me to replace it. I'll still take it to Henry for him to have a look at this weekend but I now fear the cost of restoring it will far outweigh what the pen is actually worth. Does anyone have any advice?
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In 1959, the Montblanc line was redisigned, 142, 144 and 146 are retired, instead Montblanc was offering: Meisterstück: 12 (plastic, looked a bit like the Parker 45 and had a triangular capband) 14 (plastic, see above) 72 (with rolled gold cap) 74 (with rolled gold cap) 82 (with rolled gold cap and barrel) 84 (with rolled gold cap and barrel) 92 (in 14 carat solid gold cap and barrel) 94 (in 14 carat solid gold cap and barrel) Medium range: 22 (with 14 ct gold nib and two cap rings) 24 (with 14 ct gold nib and two cap rings) Economy: 32 (with 14 ct gold nib and one cap ring) 34 (with 14 ct gold nib and one cap ring) 31 (with steel nib) 32S (with steel nib, silver clip and cap ring) 34S (with steel nib, silver clip and cap ring) 31D (with "manifold" nib) 32P (cartridge filling system) 34P (cartridge filling system) The Montblanc '34', first '3' stand for Economy Range, and the second '4' stand for large size, while '2' stand for standard size. Here is how to disassemble the piston and nib for this series (12/14/22/24/32/34): 1. First step, unscrew the hood: 2. Front and back shot of the nib&hood: 3. Now disassemble the nib&hood, also the piston: 4. The section actually are made from 2 parts 5. This is how the hood looks like: 6. Notice that the ink window can be disassembled, too: 7. Here is how the piston looks like, you need to heat the back end of the pen to pull it off: 8. This is a look at the beatiful14K Gold "Intarsia" : 9. Finally, you can find the 34/32/24/22/14/12 on the cap trim:
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Hi Waterman experts and aficionados! Can you please advise on really good and reputable Waterman's pen(s) restoration/repair person? Explanation: I presume it would be equally appropriate to ask/post this question in Repair and... etc - group on this forum, but this is Waterman specific question - thus I feel more comfortable asking here first. I have recently bought one Waterman 58 - and to date, this is my ... rarest, biggest, most precious Waterman pen. I'm still waiting for the package, it should be in my hands in a few days. From what I was told by a seller, it belonged to her grandfather who was a book-keeper and the pen was, understandably, his prized possession. He rarely used it, but given that he got the pen after high school, after several (six or seven) decades - it can be considered well used. The seller is not a pen person, thus - no information on general condition. Through photos I have deduced few things. I anticipate some work would be necessary, changing the sac and cleaning of the pen and the nib - the least of it. In any other case - I would do this myself. However - it is Waterman 58. The nib may need some attention, some polishing and... well, this pen deserves a proper work by someone who has experience. So, please suggest whom should I get in touch with? There are several names being mentioned in several posts on this forum, but no feedback to who is the right person to take care of Waterman 58 for an example. Thank you! P.S. as soon as I receive the pen, I'll post few photos ... for "before"
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Hello. I inherited a 1923 Wahl gold filled small fountain pen from my grandfather and have plans to restore it. I intend to have the nib professionally adjusted and the sac also needs to be replaced. However, the small lever which is used to activate the ink sac is missing. I'm wondering if any of our members has a replacement lever which I may buy in order to restore this interesting little fountain pen. In the alternative, can a lever be used from another brand of a fountain pen which may be readily available? I am unable to find replacement parts for this 1923 in the internet. Thank you. Fernando.
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I've restored my first vintage pen! If I read the date code right, it's from the third quarter of 1940. Speedline filler, grey pearl, deb size. I know vacumatic aren't traditionally the right pen for a first restoration, but it went well! It writes wonderfully, and i'm using it as my EDC.
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I really don't want to go buy another specialty product, especially because I don't know how many vacumatics i'll end up restoring, but I've read that vacumatic lubricant is necessary. Is there another option to use in its stead? I read that one could use "personal lubricant" (Which I may have spent my world religions class laughing about), but is there anything else I could use? thanks!
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Hi all, I've decided to learn to restore vintage pens, and i've got some lower end ones (so i can learn without breaking something priceless) coming in from ebay soon. i'm getting ready to order an assortment of sacs, what sizes would you suggest i get? i was thinking something like: 2x#12, 3x#14, 3x#16, 3x#18, 2x#20. does that sound about right?
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I recently found a vintage BCHR lever filler at an estate sale and decided to try to restore it (i posted earlier about this). The lever seemed to be stuck halfway in, and I couldn't get it out. I eventually got it- but now I'm even more confused. Any advice would be extremely appreciated. I got out what I thought was the lever- and I don't think that's what it was after all. I'm guessing the lever is missing altogether and what I thought was the lever is something else all together. http://imgur.com/mXegDCc you can see above what I thought was a lever and turned out not to be as well as the J-bar that I pulled out. Here are all of the parts: http://imgur.com/k623KQx And just because if anyone has any idea who may have made this pen, the nib and chasing pattern:http://imgur.com/hj7DpSphttp://imgur.com/uSrCgLLIf anyone has ideas about -who made the pen-what I need to do to restore it-what parts I need-where I can find them that would be much appreciated!
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Hi all, I recently came across a no-name BCHR lever filler at an estate sale. It's the first pen I've attempted to restore, and I'm fairly confident on the sac replacement etc. However, the lever is stuck partially inside the barrel. It looks as though the whole lever was pushed in and then shoved backwards (away from the nib). The end that usually is visible is inside the barrel, and the end that's usually inside the barrel is visible, but because it gets wider than the slot, I can't get it out. Any advice? Please? Thank you!
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I bought a Conklin Crescent ringtop a couple of weeks ago for much more money than intended, due to a mistake with my sniper. What I got was a pen that may never have been used but had never been looked after, either. Patina is not really valued on a BCHR pen, and the filler mechanism was frozen beyond my ability to move it without breaking. So I sent it to Jack Lynch with my fingers crossed. He just sent me some pictures of what he's revealed. I feel a lot better about this purchase now.
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Hello y'all, A friend of mine bought a desk at a local flea market and found a Pilot Metropolitan M nib in the desk drawer. Knowing I enjoy pens he passed it on to me. It seems that the previous owner filled the converter with some sort of cheap gel ink and the feeder and nib are clogged. I have soaked in water and soap, but seems the ink has hardened and will not come loose. I flossed the nib but the feeder is still clogged. Any ideas? Thank you for all replies.
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Hi ladies & gentlemen! I have a adjustable nib from a Doric but it hasn´t have the trim piece that adjust the wide. Recently I found (waiting it from mail) a broken nib adjustable. It is possibly put the trim from the broken nib to the other nib?? Thanks and excuse my poor school english. Rodrigo
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I believe great work and good value should be recognized. Recently, I purchased a Bexley Fountain Pen from Jack Lynch listed on the FPN classifieds. The pen arrived as described and very quickly. Included in the package was a business card listing repair services. Although I do many of my own [simple] repairs, I had some Parker vacumatics that I wanted to have professionally restored. I sent eight of those pens to Jack after a brief discussion about his pricing. He did a great job at a very reasonable price and I would highly recommend his services to anyone. I will be sending more business his way!
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Hello, I was recently given this Waterman Ideal pen that was owned by my wife's Grandfather. The pen is sterling silver and the bladder pump arm says "Ideal" and the nib says "Waterman Ideal Canada". I cannot find any other reference to the pen type however the pump arm does have some patent information on the sides. I was hoping for some help on two points. First, finding out exactly what pen this is? Second, does anyone know of a restorer in or near Vancouver, BC? This pen definitely needs some love. Best Regards, Alex
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Hello. I purchased this Waterman #3 on the bay. The auction was listed as a restoration/parts. I bought it because I thought the body of the pen was beautiful and I was curious about the purple nib. I dipped the nib in ink and it writes as a extra fine (maybe even an xxf) firm. The nib is smooth. The pen is missing a clip and there is something rattling around in the barrel-I am assuming it's an ossified sac. I'd like to try my had at restoring it, also can you provide any pointers on where to obtain a clip and what the right clip should be? Also I have be unable to separate the nib from the body-are there any do's or don'ts (err besides don't break it)? Thank you in advance, for any help or guidance. Here are the pics.
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Hello all! I know this has been answered on a few other threads, but I could use some more help. So I bought a Sheaffer vac-fil with a triumph nib and was wondering the best way to go about making it write. The pen is in semi working order, but the piston hasn't been greased in about 50, so it's stiff (don't want to force it) From what I have read, it sounds like the nib unit needs to be removed, so how is the best way to do this (without a ton of fancy equipment)? Also what is all this about "packing material" what is it? does it need to be replaced? Thanks, Alexander
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Have any of you done a restore on this pen? Any tips? Mine isn't here yet so I am researching ahead of time. I finally was able to obtain one for a decent price.
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I have inherited a contemporary Cartier ballpoint pen with what Cartier describe as a black "resin / composite" body. The composite is badly worn in the grip section - indeed, there is a small patch of bare metal showing through (I assume, the main structure of the pen. I wondered if anyone knows of a repairer who can either replace the grip section or fill and polish the worn section? Cartier stores are proving pretty useless in this regard! My technical skills are relatively useful, if anyone can point me towards a suitable repair technique. The pen is of great sentimental value and it would be nice to have it looking a tad better! Wishing you all a very pleasant weekend.
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My First Restoration, An Inkograph!
ThegreatandpowerfullR posted a topic in It Writes, But It Is Not A Fountain Pen ....
I have finally repaired my first pen! Awhile ago I found an old inkograph and a lady sheaffer xi in an antique store, the lady sheaffer was an xxf nib and worked fine but the inkograph needed restoring. Firstly; you might want to be careful if you are restoring one of these be carefull when taking off the barrel. It was glued on and was really hard to get off, I thought I was going to break it. Also watch out for the sac because the sac was rock hard and plastered on the side of the barrel as well so if you know how I can clean it off that would be helpful(the new sac barely slides in). The wire was also badly bent but it is pretty straight now. The barrel is kinda short so I had to cut off quite a bit from the sac. The tip is a western fine or eastern medium, it sometimes starts off slow at the beginnings of sentences or words because of the bent wire, and of course is hard as a nail. I used a size 22 sac and it worked nicely. The other pen pictured is the lady sheaffer that i also really like. I definitely recommend fountainpensacs.com, and Inkograph stylos!
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I recently acquired a Lamy Safari pen (Blue/ Red Clip) that was advertised as used but in good condition. Unfortunately for me, this wasn't the case. The pen shows some discolouration (specially if you compare the barrel/cap with the section), several blemishes and a slight yellowing/ grim on parts of the plastic. Since the pen arrived to my hands almost two months after it was purchased (I buy my pens in the US, then I have them shipped to an address in TX where a friend of mine picks them up and brings them to MX), I don't feel confident to raise a claim, notwithstanding I paid almost $120 for said pen. So after digging around the net, I've found people restore ABS plastic parts using a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and Oxy. According to some claims, it does get back some of the colour and shine of the original item but am not entirely confident I really want to risk this pen further. What do you recommend? Has anyone ever restored a Safari pen? I'm attaching a pic of the pen (not very detailed, thou) and another from my collection so far.
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Hi everyone! I've been lurking around FPN for a while now, and this is my first post! I wanted to share something interesting about the Quink Permanent Blue. I couldn't find any green Quink anywhere, so I tried calling Parker to see if they stocked it, or could point me to a retailer that did. They didn't and told me all they had was black and permanent blue. I had always wondered why permanent blue had "permanent" in its name when it is not waterproof at all, and fades fairly easily. So I asked them, and got an interesting answer. Apparently the "permanent" Quinks have metal incorporated into them that essentially gets embedded into the paper. When the ink fades, or is rendered illegible due to water or whatnot, you can get what was originally written recovered professionally. Did anybody know about this?!?! I've used Quink as my everyday writing ink for ages, and had no idea. I was mindblower. Is this a feature found in any other inks?? Very interesting, or at least IMHO.
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A friend of mine purchased this Waterman - either a Hemisphere or Ideal, not sure - the box says "Ideal" - in 1990 while in France. She wants to sell it to me but has no idea what it's worth. She paid 160 Francs in '90, so about $30. It needs to be cleaned, and she thinks a new nib. Nib looks fine to me, but I could be wrong. Pics below. Any help on value, what to do to clean before inking, and if you think it needs a new nib, would be greatly appreciated! http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb176/clmautz/2014-10-22121937.jpg http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb176/clmautz/2014-10-22122200.jpg Thanks! Bamboo...
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Hello! Is there a section of the forum where people offer spare parts of pens like extra nibs, clips, etc. and where we can post our request to the other members of the community?
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Restoration Project - Chilton Golden Quill: Barrel Threading And Crack
Apothic posted a topic in Repair Q&A
Hey All, Recently I was able to acquire a Golden Quill from an amazing dealer who will remain anonymous unless they wish to post. But the buying experience could not have been better! I purchased the GQ knowing that there was a small chunk missing out of the threads, and a short crack running off this chunk, that followed the thread's groove for an 1/8th of an inch or so. Restorations on uncommon pens can be stressful, but when they're done, oh man, it is worth every drop of sweat. The fracture in the threading was compromised first. Preventing it from spreading. Matching the threads was a little bit tricky, but overall; once the GQ was in my hands I was able to get some really amazing results. Before After Thank you for letting me share!
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My Fellow Waterman Collectors, I have already posted this in the pen repair forum. I have a Waterman #58 that needs fairly light restoration, specifically a sac, a nib adjustment, possibly seals and an appropriate clip installed. I would like to send it to a highly recommended repair person accustomed to working on old Waterman hard rubber pens (this one is a red ripple pattern). It is a hard to find pen, so I am trying to be as careful and responsible as possible. I expect that within 15 years my modest collection will end up on the market and for a poor old professor (community college) this #58 is the most valuable pen in my Waterman collection, thus I see this as a restoration for my enjoyment and conservation for the next owner. I will appreciate all recommendations including self-recommendations from experts. Thank you, Ed
