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Anyone know if an Edson clip can be removed? I see a screw inside the cap, so I'm hopeful. I've also heaed the cap liner is glued in, so I don't want to mess with it unknowingly if I can help it...

I have had this ASC Bologna Extra for about a year, and was always curious about how to disassemble it because one day I will have to re-sac it. Today, with a thought derived from another thread on FPN, I was feeling brave and did it. First of all, I would like to thank FPN member sannidh and Youtuber sbrebrown for their answer and video to help me with this disassembly. sannidh's original post is here (a different topic but indirectly related to this because of the same filling mechanism): https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/351582-a-review-of-the-wahl-eversharp-decoband-in-rosewood/page-1 sbrebrown's video relevant to disassembly of this model is: Please see minute 4:44. Please see below photos: You can unscrew the nib/feed unit out of the section. You can unscrew the section out of the barrel. Observations: 1. There was no shellac or other heat sensitive adhesive on plastic nib collar threads so unscrewing was rather easy, both the nib unit and the section. 2. The nipple size seems to be for size 22 sac (or one size bigger or smaller), but the sac seems thinner in diameter. I could be wrong but it looks at least in my case, the sac size might be chosen to accommodate the narrow diameter of the brass casing. Otherwise the pen had to be made even girthier, which may not be possible depending on the diameter of their celluloid rods available. Or it's just fitted off centre in this case that it appears to be a smaller sac for the nipple. But my guess is the former. I didn't re-sac the pen, as it's still relatively new. When I do, I will first have to see if the sac with the right nipple size fits the brass casing. If not, a smaller size sac will have to do, even though it might be a tighter than ideal fit on the nipple. 3. The section is rather thin (partially inner-lined with brass). Be careful not to over-turn the nib unit when you screw it back on, to avoid any chance of cracking the section. Hope this satisfies your curiosity as it did for mine, and might be helpful to you one day. Regards, como

I came across this pen that probably belonged to my grandfather. First of all I haven't been able to identify the pen or its age. It has a vacumatic fill and an ebonite feed. The ribbed section also seems to be made of ebonite and has some signs of whitening. The biggest problem with this pen is that the barrel has been sloppily glued to the section by some sort of adhesive, most probably many years after the pen was manufactured. The adhesive was quite brittle so I managed to carefully peel it off. What remains behind looks like damage to the barrel itself. The adhesive has dug small pits in the barrel material (maybe celluloid? Bakelite? I'd love to hear your thoughts). Even after the removal of the glue, I can't unscrew the barrel from the section and I'm too scared to force it. I'd really like to know what the pen is made of, how to restore whitening on hard rubber, what parts is the pen made of (threadded, glued) and how one would go about restoring it. I'd really appreciate your input on this pen as I'd be quite interested of restoring it myself.

Dear fellow FPNers My beloved Parker Duofold International has begun developing issues lately, after years of being the most reliable pen I have ever known. I am not as well versed in fountain pen mechanics as I would wish, and maybe I have done something that hurt it, and I just don't know. I was hoping that someone here with a lot more knowledge than me could help me out? I read a bit in the forums and thought it might be a feed issue, but I wanted to ask again to make sure I'm not jumping to conclusions. The issues are: - I first began noticing that ink would dry in if I didn't write with it for 2 days, fair enough, that's normal for a fountain pen. I added water to it a few times and it worked again. - After doing this 2 times, I decided to give it a thorough clean to make sure no particles of ink or anything are stuck. I cleaned it with a bulb syringe until water ran clear and let it dry. I also unscrewed the metal part behind the feed and screwed it back on. Its been loose for a while. - When I filled it with ink today, and after I waited for a few hours to let the feed saturate, it started skipping after a few lines. It would only stop skipping if I really pushed the cartridge again (I only use Quink cartridges), until I guess the feed ran out of ink. I also noticed that the metal part under the feed was loose again, and tightening it helped as well. At times though, it would skip after I tightened it, still. I cleaned it out again, and am now waiting. Does anyone know what might be wrong? Any help would be super appreciated

Vintage celluloid usually shows some shrinking to various degrees. Depending on the kind of celluloid and brand, the shrinking can be enough for the cap bands to loosen. Sometimes you see such pens which even lost cap bands due to this problem. Is there any good way to fix this issue? Can you tighten the cap bands somehow?

I have Wing Sung 590 and I accidentally broken the feed. I glued it and it looked ok, then I filled my pen but get a lot of skipping. So I thought that I blocked channels with glue and I deepen the channel with scalpel, then tried to write. The result was even worse. Then I thought that may be I made a channel too deep so I placed a piece of thread at the end of the feed. And it worked! Now the question is: how to reduce depth of the feed? Thanks for any suggestions. P.S. Sorry for bad English.

I currently have an old celluloid CS 479 from the early 1930s on my bench that, not surprisingly, needs a new sac. It's in very good condition otherwise. Since I have not that much experience with CS pens, I wonder if anyone here can tell me whether the section is friction fit or screw in? Thanks a lot in advance. P.s.: Sorry, my previous post had a typo in the title, which unfortunately I cannot edit. Maybe a moderator can remove the earlier post.

It is an unfortunate reality that plastics deteriorate over time. With modern fountain pen feeds typically made of plastic, my beloved collection of 1970s student fountain pens is becoming susceptible to breakage. This holds true for my Montblanc Carrera pens, where the feed post (the bit that protrudes into the cartridge) is prone to breaking off. I would recommend against pressing a new cartridge into old pens with this feed type (not being a fan of using converters, I refill my old cartridges with a syringe). I have found many useful repair tips in this forum and it’s only fair that I share solutions that I have developed. In this article, I will explain a simple feed repair, should you suffer the breakage of the post from the feed. All you need is a drill with small bit, an ear bud and a very small pair of scissors (or a sharp knife). The initial steps are: Drill a small (say 1mm) hole into the centre of the broken feed;Cut a suitable length of plastic from the ear bud;Cut that section of plastic lengthways twice so that about a quarter of the circumference is removed.This is illustrated in the first photo below. On the left you see the small scissors that I used from a small key-chain multi-tool. For an easy comparison, in the photo below, I have placed the broken feed (with hole already drilled into the centre) on the right of an intact feed from another pen. All that is left to do now is to reassemble the pen. The first step is to roll the length of plastic from the ear bud in your fingers, until it has a circular cross section (albeit with a smaller diameter than the original length of ear bud). During assembly, I found it easier to place the new feed post (no glue needed) into the clear section (rather than into the feed itself). This is shown in the picture below. The final picture shows the reassembled pen. The ink flow after the repair is the same as what one would expect from a pen with an intact feed.

Pilot Murex - I had done some minor repair on this pen for the original owner but have since then acquired it for my own collection. For the repair I did , a full disassembly was not necessary. I pulled the cap off yesterday and the section came loose with it. This is what I saw. Is this normally adhered to the inside of the section like an inner cap in a pen cap? I don't seem to be finding pictures of such a part over the feed as of yet. I also need to disassemble the feed and section which I assume will take heat. The notches on the black section piece and the notches(tabs?) on the metal aren't matching. I am thinking perhaps the section was torqued at some point in the past. EDIT - After using some common sense I have the feed and all separated. I'll get the sleeve back into the section and go from there. BUT, what is the partial ring piece technically called? It was on the feed end of the threaded "coupler" the feed was screwed onto. It doesn't seem like part of the ring is missing so I am guessing this is the full piece. I am amazed it didn't come off and disappear into the pen part triangle. The Saint of tiny pen parts must be on my side today.

Does anyone know who the distributor is for Platinum in Italy, or where I could find a replacement cap otherwise for my 3776?

So that kind of sucked: sent a pen I inherited off to Montblanc because it wont pump ink. Figured old piston gaskets had crumbled or something, which I thought would be a simple matter for them. Not so. They returned it unfixed with a charming letter saying they were out of spare parts and unable to repair it to a state of perfection. I would have thought in this day and age with CNC routers, lathes and 3D printers... I would honestly have settled for a state of working. Anyhow, does anyone know anyone who might give it a try? Kind regards, ius

Hi everybody! Does anyone know how to disassemble Montegrappa(piston or piston emulated filler) from a limited edition series? This is MG La Traviata Sterling Silver. The piston does not work(don't move by knob), probably a broken stem. The knob rotate is very easy. There is no access from the pen unit hole - there is a steel thin hole. I don't know how to remove the piston knob, there are no keyhole slots like on Pelikan/Aurora/TWSBI and there are no wedges like on Omas or vintage pens. Anyone got any good ideas? Thanks! https://images.vfl.ru/ii/1567439176/e7cb6aeb/27738321.jpg https://images.vfl.ru/ii/1567439177/977feaf4/27738322.jpg https://images.vfl.ru/ii/1567439177/1fb4c035/27738323.jpg

At an antiques fair I was recently GIVEN a fountain pen by a stall holder who just wanted rid of it. Couldn't say no, could I? And of course Ive got to get it back into working order... It is an Osmiroid, a brand I remember from school, long ago. Research shows it is an Osmiroid 65. It is not a lever filler. I've ordered a converter from ebay. The nib says OSMIROID ROLATIP MEDIUM SOFT ENGLAND, and looks to be in perfect order. The problem is the section. When unscrewed it is badly bent - see photo. All in all the pen has had a lot of abuse. There are tooth marks on the section, as if someone has tried to open it with their teeth. Also the bottom of the barrel is irregular, looks like a knife has been inserted in an attempt to open the pen. Can anyone tell me how to separate the nib from the feed? And, more importantly, where can I get a replacement section? There don't appear to be any on ebay. NB this is the normal section, not the long cradle-shaped thing for holding a calligraphic nib. I gather Osmiroid nibs fit Esterbrook sections. Does this mean that an Esterbrook section would take the Osmiroid nib and fit the Osmiroid barrel? All suggestions gratefully received. Peter

---------- Verbose introduction; hang on to your britches! ---------- I recently bought a used Aurora Hastil (red body, yellow gold nib) on ebay for a very reasonable price. This is my first gold nib fountain pen and first retro pen. The entire pen has a wonderful feel to it! The body seems to be made of a golden metal with a red plastic coating that has a remarkably luxurious feel. The cap clicks to the rest of the body with a reassuring CLICK, and glides onto the rear of the body when posted. The Aurora designers included soft plastic standoffs to prevents scratching when the cap is posted. Overall, the pen is incredibly light and thin, but has a very clean look to it. Once I figure out how to post photos, I will do that. The clip is wonderful as well. It is obviously designed to sit in a shirt pocket, because the clip nearly rests on the cap, indicating that it is intended to clip to a thin fabric. Pants are out of the question, so I think a dress shirt pocket would make sense. As an aside; for those of you who have tried wearing fountain pens in your dress shirt pocket, several bad things may happen (and have for me): 1. If the pen is heavy (think TWSBI), your shirt pocket sags, and your shirt looks terrible. 2. The clip does not have the necessary contact surface area with the shirt fabric, and you simply bending over results in a few curse words as the pen slides out and *SMACK*s into the ground. So, I placed the pen in my dress shirt pocket, and did a hand stand. Done. No sliding, and the pen seems happy to be there with me, fighting gravity. The section, feed, and nib look remarkably well made. The section is stamped with a serial number, the feed doesn't have lines left from the molding manufacturing process, and the nib looks very simplistic but nice. On the side it is stamped with '14 kt'. -------- end of verbose introduction; on to business! ---------- When I unscrewed the pen for the first time, I saw what I had expected, but hoped wouldn't be the case. The pen was still inked; if you can call it that.. The ink cartridge did have ink in it at one point in its history, but the ink had dried, leaving a crusty residue in the cartridge. This of course is not a big deal, what is.. is the feed. I immediately started cleaning out the feed with a bulb syringe (as per Stephen's tutorials). I filled the bulb syringe with room temperature water, and streamed it through the feed from the section side. As expected, a constant flow of dark black ink was expelled from the tip of the pen. I did this with probably 5 or so syringes until I got a clear stream. I dried the nib off and let it set for the next day. The next day, I pushed through another bulb syringe, and sure enough... more dark color. This time a deep violet color. I have repeated this process for 3 days now, and I'm somewhat irritated at this slow process. I took studiohead's recommendation and suspended the section/nib/feed under water. I got the following really cool results: Does anyone know how to take an Aurora Hastil apart? I would like to give the feed a good scrubbing. Does anyone know of a faster way of cleaning the feed?

I bought a Conklin Mark Twain Crescent Filler a while back and inked it up and noticed ink was seeping into the section. I contacted Yafa and they are repairing or if they cant repair they will allow me to select any pen of equal value. I've been told that repair is more likely. It's been a few weeks and it is still being repaired. I asked for an ETA and the answer I was given was more or less when the tech is finished. I know each pen repair is different, but I'm sure many of you have experience in this area; how long typically do pen repairs take? I know an exact time frame is unreasonable to expect but I would welcome a ballpark.

Hello, Sorry, I know this has come up a few times. Looking for someone in the UK who could repair make work my Visconti Rembrandt. (I've posted about it elsewhere, but never been happy with it. I think it has one tine longer than the other so needs a bit of grinding and probably work on the feed / feed replacement. Tempted to get it ground to a stub as well.) I've seen mention of Oxonian aka John Sorowka but can't find him searching FPN members. Also saw mention of PenPractice.com but doesn't seem to cater for repair or modern pens. Any tips?

i am having a bit of a trouble dissasembling the whole feed.. nib... section can't find any place that i could open it so i can clean the inside if anyone can please help me that would be helpful

I just received a Wasp Vacuum-Fill Addipoint pen that turns out to have a broken ring clip. Pictures are shown below. Before I destroy the cap trying to remove the broken clip. Can anyone help with the following: 1. Is the jewel on this pen friction fit, or threaded? Can I just carefully pry it off? Was it glued? 2. How is the clip removed? Do I have to remove the inner cap, or just the jewel to removed it? 3. Do you know a good source for a replacement? Thanks ahead of time.

For those of you who've had this problem and looked closely at it, I'm sure you've seen the little spring behind the top of the clip. I'm sure you've suspected something about that spring was the source of your stress. It was. The disc you see in the picture is inside the cap, below the magnetic finial. I made a rudimentary tool to unscrew it (regular thread, CCW to loosen). First I removed the adjustable stop ring in the cap (this is reverse thread). The problem is that the ends of the spring aren't ground flat. If the spring turns such a way as the end of the coil spring seats crooked on the clip it pushes on the back of the clip at an angle. I tried to turn the spring in place but it it so compressed that I couldn't budge it. It had to come out. I ground the ends flat, as you might see on a valve spring, and put it back together. O frabjous day! It's fixed!

I saw a rather interesting tool on eBay for disassembling Pelikans : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-for-disassembling-Pelikan-120-140-M400-M200/163938321950?hash=item262b7c461e:g:tecAAOSw-s5dx8Id I cannot comment whether this is the appropriate tool to use compared with some of the knockout block assemblies that we've seen over the years, but I was fascinated with the video. It appears from the video that the barrel screws into the tool, so as to retain it when the piston assembly is being removed. Part of the tool appears to be wood, part steel. Pretty obviously, this is only valid for certain models of Pelikan (and is so noted within the ad, "Tool for disassembling Pelikan 120, 140, M400, M200"), but it did seem to be a solution that could allow for a modest amount of force instead of a solid whack to the piston assembly. US$65 (including shipping) is a bit steep for me to entertain this just to play with it, not forgetting that I do not pretend to be a pen engineer/repairer ! Still... John P.

Hello FP wizards & Omas FP fans! I have a problem. (yeah, I know what you are thinkin ... too many pens ), but this particular issue has to do what I think is a Omas Extra 630 Demonstrator. I bought it as part of a grouping (one of two pens that induced me to buy the group of FP’s). The piston is stuck. It has traces of ink that have dried over the years. It will not budge, I gently tried to turn it. Not wanting to break or damage it I didn’t force it. I have soaked it in a tall glass bath of water and 2 squirts of liquid hand soap for 2 days. No movement. I have a choice to send back the all of the pens (which I would prefer not!), or tell the seller that it is not able to be repaired w/o professional FP fixer help and request a partial refund of the purchase price of the lot. I like the pen too much to give up that easily or to send back the lot. So, what say you? I have an Ultrasonic cleaner that I have used on other FP’s w/ success. Would you advise using this cleaner? I could simply continue to soak it, but it the water has not entered the piston chamber to dissolve the residual ink (a testament to the seal!) I am not expert at taking apart such a pen and wouldn’t risk damage to it by attempting to. Please, please let me know what you would advise! Pic’s: 1. The first was snagged off our friends Peyton Street Pens website, looks like my pen, although theirs was in pristine condition! PICS#: 2, 3 and 4 are the subject of discussion. Measurements: Capped: 5.25" or 133.35 mm ||| UnCapped: 4.34” or 110mm ||| Cap = 2.25” or 57.15mm Thank you for any comments, advise or predictions! George

I have this Swan 6242 with a new sac. I've double and triple checked that I have no air leaks nowhere, and the feed is set to the nib, but the latter laways gets soaked with ink immediately when the pen points downwards and that builds up slowly. A minute shake will send ink flying. It occurred to me that the feed might have been changed from a different pen at some point, but to be honest it's a good tight fit so I can't see it being that. What are your thoughts? Video in this link https://www.dropbox.com/s/i62lhecpwih15a3/20191010_161330.mp4?dl=0

I have gotten a vintage Parker Vacumatic back from an unreliable repair person who was supposed to restore it. I'm not going to follow up on the repair guy, no sense in wasting time on it. The pen feed leaks and oozes ink uncontrollably. (what a mess) How do I fix this? Thanks, jim

Hi all, I have a very sentimental Delta pen that was gifted to me. Recently the clip broke off of the cap. Delta has gone out of business so I can't replace the cap or get Delta to fix it. Does anyone have ideas of where/how I can get this fixed in Canada or the USA? See photos. Thank you!!

Probably lying for decades filled with ink, this lovely Noblesse piston was blocked and the button mechanism twisted off ! Getting it free and clean showed the next problem... a ambered, shrinked and deformated barrel. After some different trials, drilling, heating... the piston tensioning remained irregular. Or she was "pen for parts"... or we tried to revive her as a demonstrator. This is how a pen repair ended...