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  1. PJohnP

    Fascinating Tool...

    I saw a rather interesting tool on eBay for disassembling Pelikans : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-for-disassembling-Pelikan-120-140-M400-M200/163938321950?hash=item262b7c461e:g:tecAAOSw-s5dx8Id I cannot comment whether this is the appropriate tool to use compared with some of the knockout block assemblies that we've seen over the years, but I was fascinated with the video. It appears from the video that the barrel screws into the tool, so as to retain it when the piston assembly is being removed. Part of the tool appears to be wood, part steel. Pretty obviously, this is only valid for certain models of Pelikan (and is so noted within the ad, "Tool for disassembling Pelikan 120, 140, M400, M200"), but it did seem to be a solution that could allow for a modest amount of force instead of a solid whack to the piston assembly. US$65 (including shipping) is a bit steep for me to entertain this just to play with it, not forgetting that I do not pretend to be a pen engineer/repairer ! Still... John P.
  2. Hello FP wizards & Omas FP fans! I have a problem. (yeah, I know what you are thinkin ... too many pens ), but this particular issue has to do what I think is a Omas Extra 630 Demonstrator. I bought it as part of a grouping (one of two pens that induced me to buy the group of FP’s). The piston is stuck. It has traces of ink that have dried over the years. It will not budge, I gently tried to turn it. Not wanting to break or damage it I didn’t force it. I have soaked it in a tall glass bath of water and 2 squirts of liquid hand soap for 2 days. No movement. I have a choice to send back the all of the pens (which I would prefer not!), or tell the seller that it is not able to be repaired w/o professional FP fixer help and request a partial refund of the purchase price of the lot. I like the pen too much to give up that easily or to send back the lot. So, what say you? I have an Ultrasonic cleaner that I have used on other FP’s w/ success. Would you advise using this cleaner? I could simply continue to soak it, but it the water has not entered the piston chamber to dissolve the residual ink (a testament to the seal!) I am not expert at taking apart such a pen and wouldn’t risk damage to it by attempting to. Please, please let me know what you would advise! Pic’s: 1. The first was snagged off our friends Peyton Street Pens website, looks like my pen, although theirs was in pristine condition! PICS#: 2, 3 and 4 are the subject of discussion. Measurements: Capped: 5.25" or 133.35 mm ||| UnCapped: 4.34” or 110mm ||| Cap = 2.25” or 57.15mm Thank you for any comments, advise or predictions! George
  3. KingRoach

    Swan 6242 Overflowing Feed

    I have this Swan 6242 with a new sac. I've double and triple checked that I have no air leaks nowhere, and the feed is set to the nib, but the latter laways gets soaked with ink immediately when the pen points downwards and that builds up slowly. A minute shake will send ink flying. It occurred to me that the feed might have been changed from a different pen at some point, but to be honest it's a good tight fit so I can't see it being that. What are your thoughts? Video in this link https://www.dropbox.com/s/i62lhecpwih15a3/20191010_161330.mp4?dl=0
  4. My wife has a vintage Parker Vacumatic that is a family heirloom. Does anyone know of a repair shop with an online web page that "specializes" in "complete Parker Vacumatic restoration"?? I have seen Danny Fudge at The Write Pen mentioned here, and Ron at Main Street Pens . Are there others (other than the above) in the USA that are reputable (Vacumatics), do great work. Thanks for your help. jim
  5. I have gotten a vintage Parker Vacumatic back from an unreliable repair person who was supposed to restore it. I'm not going to follow up on the repair guy, no sense in wasting time on it. The pen feed leaks and oozes ink uncontrollably. (what a mess) How do I fix this? Thanks, jim
  6. I have a Conway Stewart in excellent outside condition. I sent it to a pen repair person for a complete restoration, new sac, nib tuned and polished. I got it back and all it got was "grease" and does not fill or write. Charge was $17. (restoration quote was $40) Rather than pursue with this fellow and waste my time, are there any reputable pen restorers, repair persons in the USA, with an online website, that I can send my pen to for restoration and nib tuning and polish? Thanks for your help. jim
  7. evyxmsj

    Uk Nibmeister?

    Hello, Sorry, I know this has come up a few times. Looking for someone in the UK who could repair make work my Visconti Rembrandt. (I've posted about it elsewhere, but never been happy with it. I think it has one tine longer than the other so needs a bit of grinding and probably work on the feed / feed replacement. Tempted to get it ground to a stub as well.) I've seen mention of Oxonian aka John Sorowka but can't find him searching FPN members. Also saw mention of PenPractice.com but doesn't seem to cater for repair or modern pens. Any tips?
  8. sonnychild

    Delta Pen Cap - Clip Broken

    Hi all, I have a very sentimental Delta pen that was gifted to me. Recently the clip broke off of the cap. Delta has gone out of business so I can't replace the cap or get Delta to fix it. Does anyone have ideas of where/how I can get this fixed in Canada or the USA? See photos. Thank you!!
  9. Probably lying for decades filled with ink, this lovely Noblesse piston was blocked and the button mechanism twisted off ! Getting it free and clean showed the next problem... a ambered, shrinked and deformated barrel. After some different trials, drilling, heating... the piston tensioning remained irregular. Or she was "pen for parts"... or we tried to revive her as a demonstrator. This is how a pen repair ended...
  10. Andrew_L

    Montegrappa Piston Problem (Le)

    Hi everybody! Does anyone know how to disassemble Montegrappa(piston or piston emulated filler) from a limited edition series? This is MG La Traviata Sterling Silver. The piston does not work(don't move by knob), probably a broken stem. The knob rotate is very easy. There is no access from the pen unit hole - there is a steel thin hole. I don't know how to remove the piston knob, there are no keyhole slots like on Pelikan/Aurora/TWSBI and there are no wedges like on Omas or vintage pens. Anyone got any good ideas? Thanks! https://images.vfl.ru/ii/1567439176/e7cb6aeb/27738321.jpg https://images.vfl.ru/ii/1567439177/977feaf4/27738322.jpg https://images.vfl.ru/ii/1567439177/1fb4c035/27738323.jpg
  11. sidthecat

    Further Thoughts About Big Pens

    By the way, while I'm thinking about it, does anyone know of any variety of ringtop pen that carries an oversize nib? The biggest I've ever seen is on my Dorics, but they're only slightly larger than the typical #2 nibs of the time.
  12. I bought a YUGE Dunn pen with a wonderfully flexy nib, but the barrel has a piece broken off it (the piece is included). I asked the seller if it wasn't bchr, but he insisted that it was Bakelite and could be repaired. So I researched Bakelite repairs, and it appears that the antique radio and telephone fanciers have a variety of methods to keep their prizes in one piece. I'm curious to see if anyone has tried any of those methods with pens. If it's fixable, I might try to keep the bits together because that magnificent nib may be too big for any of my ringtop pens - even my Dorics.
  13. JonnyTex

    Sailor Repair Process

    I wasn't 100% sure if I should start this thread in the repair or Japan forum. I chose Japan because it is not about repairing a Sailor pen but sending it to Sailor for repair. I thought I would post this thread to inform anyone interested of how the repair process for Sailor Pens works. I sent mine in for repair because I lost the friction-fit inner cap. This is probably a 10 cent part, but the only solution I could find was to send it to the factory for repair. After consulting the forums in this thread: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/347469-sailor-inner-cap-replacement/ I contacted Itoya -- the US Sailor distributor -- via their website: itoya.com. From there, I emailed returns@itoya.com and received this email: Hi Jonny, We can help facilitate the repair with Sailor. We as the distributor is not allowed by Sailor to do any sort of repair. All repair work has to be done at the factory in Japan. It is also Sailor policy not to send just parts for replacement. The entire pen has to be sent to Japan for evaluation. Even if you are just missing the inner cap. This is to ensure that the pen is in perfect working condition once the parts are replaced and repair is completed. Below is our repair process. You will be shipping your pen to our facility in California. Once it arrives, we will send this to SAILOR Japan. Once the evaluation is completed, SAILOR will contact us with a cost estimate which we will forward to you through email. If you authorize us to have SAILOR proceed, you are responsible for this amount plus a $20.00 shipping & handling fee (these charges are typically handled by credit card - we accept Visa, MasterCard or Discover). The entire process typically takes 10-12 weeks. If you decide not to proceed with the repair, the pen will be return unrepaired and your cost will only be the $20.00 shipping and handling. Please send the entire pen to ITOYA, at the address below. Reference on the outside of the package ######### for easy identification. Itoya800 Sandhill AvenueCarson, CA 90746 Here's the timeline so far for repair: Tuesday, July 9, 2019I sent the pen to Itoya via USPS. Friday, July 12, 2019USPS let me know Itoya received the pen. Tuesday, July 16, 2019I emailed Itoya to confirm receipt since I had not heard from them. Wednesday, July 17, 2019Itoya confirmed they had received my pen. Tuesday, August 13, 2019I have not received further communication from Itoya. I assume all is moving forward and my pen is somewhere in the Pacific Ocean. I will update this thread as the process continues. In the meantime, I sent a pen to Franklin-Christoph last week for repair and have already received confirmation that it is in the mail back to me. I have also learned that Pilot has a repair tech in Lousiana. I love my Sailor, but I may choose Pilot for my next Japanese pen since they shouldn't require 10-12 weeks for a simple repair.
  14. sidthecat

    Ringtop Waterman Dripping

    I was writing with one of my Watermans: a 52 1/2v with a Medium nib, when ink started to POUR out of the nib. I looked around on the repair forum for a cause, and the best suggestion was a catastrophic sac failure. A peculiarity of Los Angeles air is that its corrosive to rubber, so this is a plausible idea. But I thought Id throw it out to the knowledge base: any other ideas? Many thanks.
  15. sidthecat

    "good Order"

    This old McNiven & Cameron pen is described as having a nib in "good order". I ask you!
  16. TravelCommons

    Pelikan Nib Repair In Chicago?

    I just received an M800 Fine from Cult Pens that has an awful rough spot. Before I go thru the hassle of sending back to the UK for an exchange, can anyone suggest a shop in the Chicago area that could fix the nib? I'd prefer to pay a nibmeister to smooth it out than trans Atlantic shipping. Thanks, Mark
  17. Hello! I recently obtained my Grail pen, a Parker 51 "Special" in Sterling, but unfortunately the section was cracked in several places. This Parker 51 section has a special layout, with it's feed being a pull-twist removal feed. Because this part is seldom sold anywhere due to color and type, and is extremely expensive when sold; I have decided to repair it. Being just an amateur restorer, I contacted a very nice fellow (Siamack) and he/she guided me to a Parker 51 repair thread! This thread from Siamack leads me to the repair materials. I have decided to use either Loctite Shoe Glue (unorthodox) or Plastruct Plastic Weld (volatile, hold stronger). I picked shoe glue due to it's silicone properties (watertight, harmless to most plastics), it's very strong features (I've repaired statues with this type of adhesive), and it's availability, and Plastruct is picked due to it's recommended use in the forums. Feed, section, and clutch ring An easier repair job removal of clutch ring shows no extra cracks. I now have a problem: How would we remove the inner "tube" inside the section? The tube restricts access to the cracks on the top of the section, so it's removal is a must. - Thanks to all who comment and read!
  18. This is another recent 452 and 1/2 V acquired. It has both the factory clip plus the ring. It is in the Sheraton pattern (a bit boring, but less common). When it arrived, the lever would only move about 1/16th of an inch. The Sac inside had seriously hardened, and prevented the lever from moving any further. This example of the pen absolutely required the use of a hair drier to separate the section from the body. Upon inspection it was clear that last person who had been in the pen (decades before), had got some shellac on the section/body junction. Still, it came apart without cracking anything, which was good. It will recieve the same #16 sac I used on my other 452 1/2 V (basket weave pattern).
  19. I play around with 0552 1/2 V or LEC, 452 1/2 V or LEC, Lady Patricia sized Watermen pens. Is there a table/chart/list which shows interchangeable parts with the older 12 1/2, 32 1/2 (or other 1/2 sized pens)? I am thinking about getting up a modest spares inventory of parts.
  20. Hello guys. I am planning to do a barrel swap on a Montblanc 74 with a Montbanc 24. From what I read, the dimensions are equal and this should be doable. However, I have a few questions. 1: Is the resin used in Meisterstuk line pens different, in particularly cosmetically or durability-wise to that of Montblanc's lower end pens (in this case, a MB 24)? 2: How should I go about removing the piston mechanism? How does it fit and are special tools required? Thanks, Eric
  21. I currently have a 1930s Osmia 222 button filler on my work desk which needs a new sac. The barrel is celluloid and the section seems to be hard rubber. It's a rare pen and I need to be extra careful. What I don't know is whether the section is screwed in or only friction fit. Does anyone here have experience with button fillers from Osmia? Any info is highly appreciated.
  22. Hey guys, I managed to ruin the feeder on one of my favorite Montblanc pens. It is similar to this one: https://arum24.es/product/montblanc-noblesse-oblige-raj1556/?lang=en 1) I have no experience in repairing pens. Would changing the feeder be a doable task for me? 2) What tools to I need? I can only find 146/149 - series remover tools on eBay. This is a 522 nib. Thanks a load in advance! /Law
  23. WillyVanDerKuijlen

    How To Remove Namiki/pilot Maki-E Pen Clip?

    For Namiki/Pilot no.5 size(such as many Nippon Art) fountain pen (you can see a gold metal ring in this pen end) it has the similar body type as pilot 74 or 912, you can directly screw it and it can disassembly easily. But for Namiki/Pilot No.20 size pen its structure is so complex that I cannot find a way to screw. However, I still want to know the way to disassembly Namiki/Pilot No.10 size(such as yukari type) pen cap and clip, is any way can find out or any tool can be recommended?Thanks a lot!
  24. Sorry, I think this question must have been asked hundreds of times before but I simply cannot find recent information. It's been a few years since I last bought a good assortment of sacs and spare parts but now I'm running out of a number of sizes. Unfortunately, my shop closed it's doors by now and I'm looking for a new supplier. Could you recommend a good and reasonably priced source, preferably in Europe? Thanks a lot in advance!
  25. Recently got this and a Duofold from a colleague. The nib is in excellent condition and writes quite well, but the internal sac has crumbled to dust. Would it be possible to buy a new sac for this in India? If not, what are my sources online for buying parts for this? I think this is a Sheaffer Triumph but I might be wrong and more information on the pen is always welcome.





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