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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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Hello everyone, I have recently bought a vintage Waterman 42. I have bought it through some youngster from apparently an original owner (a man in his 80's) and instantly fell in love with the pen. Outside, the pen seemed in decent shape. I bought it cheap, knowing that there will be some work on it. My first problem was - and still is - this pen was probably never serviced, the cork was dry, but - with some soaking, I have managed to start using it (today). However, immediately I have noticed that someone was obviously tried to straighten the tines, probably that "know it all" youngster. And to my horror - I've noticed that one tine has a crack. Please see below (I tried to take as best photo as I could). Does anyone here knows - who or where can I send this pen - to have this crack repaired??? And more than anything - is it possible to repair this crack? Please help!
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Hi Everyone, I've been trying to find a straight answer on this but have been unsuccessful. I need to replace the damaged hoods on a couple of my 1950s aerometric Parker 51s, but don't know whether to get the "recessed" hoods which have space inside for an o-ring or the non-recessed ones which simply have threading. Does it matter which kind? Do you have to replace a hood with the same type that was originally on the pen? I'm hoping it doesn't matter, because I'd rather not take the pen apart to find out what kind it has. Thanks for your help!
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Picked up a Parker 17 recently and, even after a thorough clean and nib realignment, I'm having problems with ink in the cap to such an extent as to make it unusable. I notice that, unlike UK duofolds of the same era, it doesn't have a hole in the cap to prevent it drawing a vacuum when uncapping. Is this something I just need to live with, or am I missing something obvious. Grateful for any help - this is my first experience with a 17.
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Quick question for those more familiar with the mechanics of these pens than I - does the cap coming off like this mean that the piston mechanism is necesssarily broken? Or possibly that someone turned the knob too hard and it now comes off but that the piston may still operate properly? Any ballpark estimate of how much a repair might cost? Pen appears in reasonably good shape overall so trying to determine if price of pen + possible repair is worthwhile.
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Finally Got My First Estie Working, And It Writes Like A Dream!
rbanerjee posted a topic in Esterbrook
A couple of months ago, I picked up an Esterbrook Model J (Green) at a market. I paid $20 for it, and after a little homework, picked up sac, talc and shellac from Anderson Pens and fixed it up myself. However, the thing came with a 1555 "Gregg" nib, which was the scratchiest nib I have ever experienced in my life. Its feed was also in poor shape (even after lots of soaking in water), so that even if held at the "sweet spot" for writing, it would dry out pretty fast. Instead of doing a whole bunch of nib tuning + ammonia soaking, I decided to try replacing the nib + feed (since Esties have the "renew point" system). I found good advice here, and decided to pick up a Durachrome 9668 (found NOS on eBay for $25, incl. shipping). With the new nib installed, I am in love with this pen! It is not the contrast alone... the new nib is one of the smoothest writing experiences I have had, ever. Currently using it on Tomoe River paper, which is a personal favorite of mine. Anyway, I thought I'd share my positive experience and document it for the possible benefit of other newbies. If you have a scratchy Estie from a flea market, don't give up on it -- instead, take advantage of its "renew point" design. Thanks, -Rahul
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Hello! This is my first post in the forums, so please excuse any mistakes! I was at an antique market today and my mother picked up a yellow Esterbrook for $15. I thought this was a steal, until I asked her if I could look at it. There's actually no ink sac in the pen at all, and the nib is fit with a "Venus" nib. (From my understanding, Venus is a third-tier vintage company here in Canada.) Whoever did this to the pen didn't factor in the size difference between the feed and the nib, because the nib cannot fit over the entire feed. As a result, about 1/5 of the feed is exposed on one side (reference first picture). Capped, the pen measured 11 cm. It's a pretty mini pen. Without the cap, the pen measures 9.5 cm (excluding the nib). I'm able to unscrew the feed section out, but the nib is slid in so tightly that I can't get it out with my bare hands. What should I do; and how do I install a new ink sac?
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I have been through a long process of restoring a vintage Onoto 6233. It took me longer than expected mainly due to my trial & error learning process. I had to order my spares twice through Roger Wolfe's custompenparts.co.uk. I also am most grateful to Richard Binder for his instructions, both from his book and website. In spite of this guidance, I am not entirely at ease with this plunger mechanism, which I find in Onoto pens unnecessarily complicated in design. I replaced the rod, which I had broken in my learning process and followed Roger Wolfe's instructions in identifying the proper position for drilling a hole through the rod. With the section opened and the plunger in working order, I hear a sharp pop when the pluger reaches the end position, therefore I believe than air tightness is not an issue. What I am not too sure about is the correct position of the plunger tip, once the plunger knob is screwed in. Should it rest against the feed assembly or should it leave a gap? I've read somewhere that the Onotos have some safety feature to prevent leakages and that one needs to partly unscrew the plunger knob when writing. I hope some Onoto expert is reading my message and willing to help.
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Hello FPN I am lucky enough to own a MB Oscar Wilde pen & pencil set, which has been in a pen case for the past 15 years! I decided to revive and use both last week, all good with the pen (writing much more smoothly than I remembered, what a nice surprise!) but the PENCIL is having problems. There was HB leads in it and I decided to change them to B, that little bit softer; however when I went to change the leads, they won't advance? It seems the arm, the lever, inside that advances the lead won't retract. A pen repair friend just looked inside it and he said he could see the arm down all the way but it won't go back up again. No damage anywhere, I've hardly ever used it, but clearly something slipped or went awry when I was trying to load the leads last week. I am in Ireland, if anyone can point me to where it can be repaired I would be SO grateful. It is such a beautiful piece, I really do want to use it and bring it to life. Thanks! trish
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Hello everybody, On an office move my father found 4 old pens, some of which don't work anymore. They don't seem to be worth all that much, but they are pieces of heirloom and they are rather valuable to the family. So they should be restaured to be appreciated and in the best case passed on to further generations. Pen 1 is a Waterman of non-descript identity, my father doesn't remember aything about it, except for the fact that it was a cheapy. It looks late 70's to me, stainless steel nib, a bit scratchy. But it works fine, so I'll use it as is. My question on this one is only if someone knows what mdel it is. Pen 2 is a classic Pelikan 140, that my father owned in high school. He'd like it repaired, as a memory. It seems to work, but the piston is very stiff and the nib is bent (see pictures), there are also a few fins missing on the feed. It would require a nib repair and a general checkup. Pen 3 is a "Rifka gold" brand, does not have a model number on it. It belonged to my grandfather, who died at young age. So this is also important to the family. The piston seal is worn and doesn't work, and the nib is a bit damaged as well. Pen 4 is a "Zenith" brand, it it a button filler. The pressure bar is way too rusty to repair and the sac has just crumbled, but these are available parts if I'm not mistaken. My concern here is the nib, the tines are terribly bent, I'm not sure if this is still repairable. My questions are: Does anyone know more about the pens? Model, History, helpful information of some sort Does anyone know if these repairs can be done and what it might roughly cost? and Does anyone know where to do these repairs? Preferably in proximity to Luxembourg or Southwest Germany (postal code 76***) Thanks in advance for all the help I can get. Ivo
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Dear Community, Not too long ago, I was writing in my journal and accidentally skipped a page. I erased what I wrote with correction tape. When I came to that section, I wrote over it with my Lamy Safari fountain pen, and since then, the nib has been extremely scratchy and the ink flow is horrible. I have tried to fix it but to no avail. Here is what I have done so far: I have flushed it with water I have soaked it in water I have soaked it in water and dawn soap for a day I have filled and refilled it with various ink I'm not sure what I did. I can't imagine that mere correction tape would destroy my nib but that's what it seems to have done. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to repair this? Is there a fluid that would dissolve correction tape that I could soak my pen in? I'm at a complete loss Thank you
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Wahl-Eversharp Doric (2Nd Gen.) - In Need Of Repair Advice
beardedpens posted a topic in Wahl-Eversharp
Hello Everyone, I finally created an account today after browsing these forums for the last few years. I am new to vintage pens, but not fountain pens in general. I often go to antique stores to pick up older pens, and can complete simple restorations. In this case I believe I have met my match. I found this Doric for $20.00 at a local antique shop. Since then I have done a simple cleaning of the pen, and was able to free the plunger, along with the adjustment slider. The nib is very whet, and uber flexible... but is as sharp as a knife. The second issue is that the seals seem to have given out, and it refuses to drawing ink. The internal mechanism seems to be beyond my repair expertise, and at this point I don't want to damage the pen because the body is in almost perfect condition. Who should I go to that could repair this pen? I'm a student and don't have hundreds of dollars to spend on this, but at the same time I don't want to break the pen of my dreams. Images (Not sure if this is how i'm supposed to do this)
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Some time ago I picked up a ball point pen sold under the Daniel Hechter brand name. I don't know who actually made it. I don't usually buy ball points, but this one had a very unusual color scheme and design--red and gold vertical stripes. When I got it it worked, but the refill in the pen was about gone. It is a twist to extend type of mechanism and usually you twist the opposite way or simply pull the top section off to replace the refill. I could never get it to work either way and never got the top half separated from the bottom half. I even sent the pen to a pen repair man who had done some work for me before, but he had no luck either. So, does anyone know a repair person who specializes in ball points and might be able to help me with this. I didn't pay that much for the pen, but I like its looks.
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We recently got an open-nib Snorkel (no idea what model, sorry) with body and cap and even the nib in decent shape, but the tube wouldn't retract. DH disassembled it, put in some new parts, and reassembled it. We haven't tested it yet, though, because the tube still protrudes somewhat. I asked him to spell out what happened. Can anyone tell if this is normal? "This was my first attempt at a Snorkel repair. This Snorkel has an open nib and it took me a lot of fiddling with the nib and feed position in the collar to get the nib aligned with the longitudinal slit on the end of the Snorkel Tube (as per Richard Binders instructions). The pictures below show the nib and feed with the Snorkel tube fully retracted, It sticks out about 1 mm from the feed. My questions are: - Is is normal for a retracted Snorkel Tube to stick out this much? - Do the nib and feed look properly positioned relative to each other? - If everything else works, should I just leave well enough alone? http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/9514/8986/5661/Snorkel_Retracted-1-640p.jpg http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/1414/8986/5662/Snorkel_Retracted-2-640p.jpg Thanks in advance for your help."
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I have an old Mont Blanc 344, used for many years, but now cracked right across the barrel more or less at the joint between the clear section and the lower part. I have tried cyanoacrylate, which failed after a while probably because it's not waterproof; recently tried solvent welding with acetone but no joy. Grateful for any repair suggestions. If it's a hopeless case, would be good to know which other models would have a compatible barrel, e.g. 24x, 14x, as they seem to be somewhat rare (and very expensive!) Also curious about its age.
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I recently won an 1948 Parker Duofold AF on eBay. I know the risks, but I have used the seller before and he is usually pretty good. Yesterday, when my Duofold arrived, however, I was shocked to see that the nib was misaligned. Nothing was mentioned in the description, so I queried the seller and he has offered to take the pen and give me full refund, but I wanted this. So my question is this: is it worth trying to repair the nib myself? Should I send it out? At what point does the repair outweigh the value? Or should I just pack it all in and send it back for a refund? It's a pretty little pen. Great filling system. Writes wetter than I'm used to, but that could be the ink or the nib. Bit of a hard start (probably nib). Good writer but smaller sweet spot due to the nib. I adore my other Parkers which is why this is so hard.
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I bought a vintage Ban-ei in need of a new cork seal. To my surprise, a well-regarded vintage pen shop here in NYC was hesitant to attempt the repair, citing unfamiliarity with the model and fears about the delicacy of ebonite. Some posters have mentioned over the years that Japanese eye-dropper seals aren't too terribly difficult to replace. Has anyone tried it themselves? Or has someone had good experience repairing Japanese vintage pens in the US at a shop to recommend? Thanks as always. Just as soon as I get the Ban-ei up and writing I'll post some pictures.
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Hi, I have a vintage Omas extra in grey celluloid a beauty in my opinion. It uses a cork with the piston mechanism, but the cork is no good anymore is falling apart and is leaking. Can anyone help me with some guides to a) how to disassemble the piston mechanism and how to replace the cork? Much much appreciated https://imgur.com/a/qv09R https://i.imgur.com/ET7vm0U.jpg https://i.imgur.com/aukO6BS.jpg
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this might not be the right place to post this; in case, i apologise in advance. Does anyone know what happened to Penpractice? my email to laurence AT penpractice did not go through . is the website working regularly?
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so... I was trying to clean out my pelikan m800. As I had done on my other Pelikan m800, I got a firm hold of the nib&feed assembly near the section, and turned. nothing happened... so I soaked it for a minute, got a good grip, turned.. and the nib moved. not the nib & feed assembly, just the nib! twisted is left, right is undamaged m805. YOU CAN SEE THROUGH IT! Now it's all askew and I have stopped trying to straighten it out for fear of doing more damage. but... what can I do!?
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I have a Lamy Studio whose cap is having some issues. I've found plenty here about cap issues with the Studio, but they refer to the ring above the nib coming off and getting wedged inside the cap. That isn't the case here unfortunately. It seems the rubbery piece inside the cap came out of place. Because of this the cap will not stay posted very well and can slide right off the pen. I generally carry it in a 3-pen case with a top that folds down, so the cap coming off isn't usually an issue, it the click isn't as satisfying and it is a bit annoying, as when I remove the cap, the black rubber piece remains on the pen and I have to pull it off and slide it back in the cap to post it. Does anybody know how it was secured in the first place, or have ideas on sticking it back in there, or would it be best/possible to get a replacement from Lamy? I didn't want to just pour some glue in there without seeking some info from those more experienced. See the images for clarity. Thanks!
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I recently entered the wonderful world of fountain pens. I'm a newbie and need some advice regarding repairing my first fountain pen, a Montblanc 149 M. I received it as a gift from my dad. He's an architect and I remember him using it 30+ years ago when I was a child. Unfortunately, the pen rolled off my desk and landed like a dart into a crack in my wooden floors. After that, writing with the pen felt scratchy. I sent it in to the Montblanc Service Center. After examination, I received a letter stating a service fee of "Service Flat rate 3" with the following comments: "Nib will be exchanged because it is bent. Body will be exchanged due to a crack. Forepart will be exchanged due to crack." The cost for repairs is $405.53. I'm a pastor of a small church and there's no way I can afford that right now. I love the pen and was using it to write sermons. Right now, the pen is at the service center awaiting my reply. What's your advice? Are there any other options (other service centers)? Can these services be done one at a time to spread out the cost? Thanks for any help you can provide.
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Hi there! First, apologies in advance if this question has been asked and answered. I did try searching first, but if so I'd appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction. I have several old pens with barrels that exhibit discoloration, which I understand to be caused by a chemical reaction between the rubber of the sac and the celluloid of the barrel. It seems that restoring the discolored parts to their original state is not doable -- is it possible instead to cause the cap to discolor? The attached photo shows one example, where the barrel has taken on a lovely color, but is quite different from the cap. I assume that this could perhaps be done over a long time by stuffing a sac in the cap and letting it degrade, but is there a way to hasten the effect? Thanks kindly for any thoughts, J
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I have a beautiful Pelikan 101N that I bought from a prominent collector a couple of years ago. When I had the nib and feed set by a well-known nibmeister, I was told that the nib had a small crack on the tail (not visible when the nib is installed). She cautioned me about trying to flex the nib, which is a nice OF. I write with a light hand, and I do not try to flex my Pelikan nibs--I just like a little cushion when I write. This nib provides its own line variation anyway. My question is, will a crack like this tend to worsen with use, even if the nib is not flexed? Should it be repaired to prevent this? If so, whom would the group recommend? http://i.imgur.com/4MOKSQQ.jpg
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Hi all, I need the address for the Pilot repair service in Japan. Can anybody help? Thanks in advance! Luis
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Hello, I am new to the forum, and am hoping this is the right section to post this in. I found this Parker 21 for $40.00 at a local antique shop. I noticed that the pen cap can rotate around the metal band of the mid section freely. The cap stays on securely, but this rotating situation makes the over all feel of the pen... I hate to say it...cheap? Otherwise I love this pen dearly. Is the cap suppose to do this? I let it soak for a few days in water, and a bit soap. This has gotten the pen to a poor working condition. I still can't remove the filler from the rest of the body to gain access to the nib for cleaning. I have even taken a blow drier to it, and it still won't budge. Any suggestions for my dilemma? - Bearded Pens
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