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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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I just received an M800 Fine from Cult Pens that has an awful rough spot. Before I go thru the hassle of sending back to the UK for an exchange, can anyone suggest a shop in the Chicago area that could fix the nib? I'd prefer to pay a nibmeister to smooth it out than trans Atlantic shipping. Thanks, Mark
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I bought a YUGE Dunn pen with a wonderfully flexy nib, but the barrel has a piece broken off it (the piece is included). I asked the seller if it wasn't bchr, but he insisted that it was Bakelite and could be repaired. So I researched Bakelite repairs, and it appears that the antique radio and telephone fanciers have a variety of methods to keep their prizes in one piece. I'm curious to see if anyone has tried any of those methods with pens. If it's fixable, I might try to keep the bits together because that magnificent nib may be too big for any of my ringtop pens - even my Dorics.
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Hello! I recently obtained my Grail pen, a Parker 51 "Special" in Sterling, but unfortunately the section was cracked in several places. This Parker 51 section has a special layout, with it's feed being a pull-twist removal feed. Because this part is seldom sold anywhere due to color and type, and is extremely expensive when sold; I have decided to repair it. Being just an amateur restorer, I contacted a very nice fellow (Siamack) and he/she guided me to a Parker 51 repair thread! This thread from Siamack leads me to the repair materials. I have decided to use either Loctite Shoe Glue (unorthodox) or Plastruct Plastic Weld (volatile, hold stronger). I picked shoe glue due to it's silicone properties (watertight, harmless to most plastics), it's very strong features (I've repaired statues with this type of adhesive), and it's availability, and Plastruct is picked due to it's recommended use in the forums. Feed, section, and clutch ring An easier repair job removal of clutch ring shows no extra cracks. I now have a problem: How would we remove the inner "tube" inside the section? The tube restricts access to the cracks on the top of the section, so it's removal is a must. - Thanks to all who comment and read!
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I was writing with one of my Watermans: a 52 1/2v with a Medium nib, when ink started to POUR out of the nib. I looked around on the repair forum for a cause, and the best suggestion was a catastrophic sac failure. A peculiarity of Los Angeles air is that its corrosive to rubber, so this is a plausible idea. But I thought Id throw it out to the knowledge base: any other ideas? Many thanks.
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This old McNiven & Cameron pen is described as having a nib in "good order". I ask you!
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Recently dropped my beloved lamy 2k while flushing it with water.. Ive looked at nibmeisters outside of India but either the shipping or their work is pretty expensive. Id love to know if anyone could repair the nib right in India, or if someone could suggest a nibmeister who is somewhat economical.
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I’ve bought my Aurora Optima 4 years ago, and it has become one of my favourite pens. 1st Experience - Just shortly after I’ve bought it, it suffered from a loose cap ring, which I sent to Italy for repairs. Communication was polite but scanty. After a bit of anxious wait, my pen came back 3 months’ time. 2nd Experience - 5 months’ ago, I have the misfortune of having my capped Optima dropped onto a carpeted floor, which in turn resulted in it shattering at the ink window. The nib was stuck in the cap. I contacted Aurora via their email contact as reflected in their website and they promptly replied. I’ve sent off the pen via registered mail and patiently waited. I knew from previous experience that there would not be any acknowledgement of the receipt of the pen. 2 and a half months later, I received an email informing that my pen was overhauled and repaired. I was tardy in checking my email and took about a week to reply. After settling the payment, I waited till recently when a FedEx package finally arrived – 5 months after I sent it off to another continent. The pen that came in was as good as new. My take home messages from my 2 completely anecdotal experiences: 1. Auroloide is fragile. I’ve heard of “precious resin” shattering and though not having the privilege of owning one, I think the fragility index of Auroloide comes close. I will baby the Optima from now on. As a side note, besides the Optima dropping out onto the carpeted floor as I accidentally flipped my shirt pocket over, a Pilot Prera and a Sailor Progear fell at the same time onto the same floor, with none of them showing any wear. 2. Aurora repair is top notch. My Optima came back as good as new, and I think the Auroloide glitters more than before. 3. Aurora communication is courteous but sparse. As pen owners we tend to be anxious about our expensive pens being away from our hands for long, especially with little updates on the status of the pen. 4. Be very very patient.
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Sterling 452 And 1/2 V With Clip And Ring (Sheraton) Getting Rebuilt
Addertooth posted a topic in Waterman
This is another recent 452 and 1/2 V acquired. It has both the factory clip plus the ring. It is in the Sheraton pattern (a bit boring, but less common). When it arrived, the lever would only move about 1/16th of an inch. The Sac inside had seriously hardened, and prevented the lever from moving any further. This example of the pen absolutely required the use of a hair drier to separate the section from the body. Upon inspection it was clear that last person who had been in the pen (decades before), had got some shellac on the section/body junction. Still, it came apart without cracking anything, which was good. It will recieve the same #16 sac I used on my other 452 1/2 V (basket weave pattern). -
Hello guys. I am planning to do a barrel swap on a Montblanc 74 with a Montbanc 24. From what I read, the dimensions are equal and this should be doable. However, I have a few questions. 1: Is the resin used in Meisterstuk line pens different, in particularly cosmetically or durability-wise to that of Montblanc's lower end pens (in this case, a MB 24)? 2: How should I go about removing the piston mechanism? How does it fit and are special tools required? Thanks, Eric
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Interchangeable Parts (Nibs, Sections, Feeds, Caps) Between Models
Addertooth posted a topic in Waterman
I play around with 0552 1/2 V or LEC, 452 1/2 V or LEC, Lady Patricia sized Watermen pens. Is there a table/chart/list which shows interchangeable parts with the older 12 1/2, 32 1/2 (or other 1/2 sized pens)? I am thinking about getting up a modest spares inventory of parts. -
Hey guys, I managed to ruin the feeder on one of my favorite Montblanc pens. It is similar to this one: https://arum24.es/product/montblanc-noblesse-oblige-raj1556/?lang=en 1) I have no experience in repairing pens. Would changing the feeder be a doable task for me? 2) What tools to I need? I can only find 146/149 - series remover tools on eBay. This is a 522 nib. Thanks a load in advance! /Law
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For Namiki/Pilot no.5 size(such as many Nippon Art) fountain pen (you can see a gold metal ring in this pen end) it has the similar body type as pilot 74 or 912, you can directly screw it and it can disassembly easily. But for Namiki/Pilot No.20 size pen its structure is so complex that I cannot find a way to screw. However, I still want to know the way to disassembly Namiki/Pilot No.10 size(such as yukari type) pen cap and clip, is any way can find out or any tool can be recommended？Thanks a lot!
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Sorry, I think this question must have been asked hundreds of times before but I simply cannot find recent information. It's been a few years since I last bought a good assortment of sacs and spare parts but now I'm running out of a number of sizes. Unfortunately, my shop closed it's doors by now and I'm looking for a new supplier. Could you recommend a good and reasonably priced source, preferably in Europe? Thanks a lot in advance!
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Recently one of my colleagues in workplace found this pen. It seems to me that this one is a Parker Duofold Senior from 1926. The nib is in excellent condition and writes smoothly. However, the sac inside has dried and crumbled. I was wondering if it would be possible to find a new sac in India. If such is not possible I would like to know whether there's any website where I can order for parts. The pen body seems to be made of ebonite whereas the blind cap at the back (which covers the button) seems to be plastic. Note: I could send the pen to Pen Hospital in Kolkata, but I had a prior experience of the nib getting damaged following the repairing of the sac of a Sheaffer. So, I am hesitant to send the pen to them again.
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Need Information Regarding Sheaffer Triumph Sac Availability In India Or Elsewhere
mitarik posted a topic in Repair Q&A
Recently got this and a Duofold from a colleague. The nib is in excellent condition and writes quite well, but the internal sac has crumbled to dust. Would it be possible to buy a new sac for this in India? If not, what are my sources online for buying parts for this? I think this is a Sheaffer Triumph but I might be wrong and more information on the pen is always welcome. -
How To Score Vintage/discarded/nos Pens From Stores In India?
AnuragTukan posted a topic in India & Subcontinent (Asia)
Hi everyone, As a fountain pen collection and restoration enthusiast it has been very hard in my city to come across more affordable pens, after exhausting the selection of easily available ones (I have a tight budget as I am a student) However, a few days back I went to a stationary shop for some work and say that they had some old chelpark inks on display (ofcourse I bought all of them), curiously I asked the man if he had fountain pens, he told me that he had many old unsold ones and didn't know where they were, after a lot of persuation he agreed to look for them and have them ready in a few days. So the next day I went and he said he didn't find them and to come back a few days later. So I did, again and again. (was pretty desperate to get a hold of some childhood oens) Fortunately, after a week or so, he finally had them ready. They were not exactly vintage, but old pens indeed, some quite damaged. I got a few Camlin No. 6 pens, some Flora Pens (the model number is not known) and a couple Hero 323. All of them were more or less usable atleast after some repairs. This brings me to my question, if this man had old stocks, probably other shops do too, and it would be great to have a few tips on how I can get these shops to sell me their old stocks, even if they're broken or damaged, how do I persuade them to dig them out for me, because every other shops I've asked, have said 'no we don't have fountain pens" to my face. Btw I'm new to FPN (this is my first thread) Regards, Anurag. -
When i splurged 200ish nzd for a fountain pen i thought it was an impulse buy. Two weeks later, i was thrilled with the history and build quality of the lamy 2000. but clip problems: the clip have some give and could move up and down . I couldn't be bothered to contact lamy support so I took tried to disassemble it with pliers with a micro fiber cloth between- bad idea scratched up cap aesthetically. Admittedly my fault by would have been nice if a 200 dollar pen didn't have these problems. Fast forward 1 year and oops- I dropped it- I screwed it up- thankfully lamy support sent me a replacement nib for 100 nzd- still ouch though Fast forward to present day and it's gone south: Sent three emails to l amy and got no response for a request to buy a clutch ring- you know the thing that keeps the cap in place with the knobbly metal bits. I'd lost it after I disassembled my lamy 2000 because it started leaking. I thought i was smart and it just needed some silicon grease and it would be fine. Now, I have spent 300 nzd as a student on a pen that doesn't function and I'm not even able to buy a replacement spare parts. I had bought lamy after those raving reviews about how helpful lamy support is but not responding to any requests- three of them- even after two months of waiting? I still a fountain pen addict though and I spent another 200 nzd on a pilot vp which still works- treating it with way more care now that I've already gone through this painful endeavor. I'm still new to this forum but hopefully someone has got replacement parts (need a replacement clutch tab spring as seen in last photo enclosed)- I've got budget up to 20 nzd- or advice on how to reach Lamy as their website query thing obviously doesn't work. praying still that it won't still leak- haven't found cause as there were no cracks even under friends microscope. Cheers. Jaydo
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I have a 1938 Parker Vacumatic with the lockdown plunger. I recent had it sent away for a diaphragm replacement. In the process, the repairman had to rebuild the plunger as it had seen some wear and had presumably been repaired at some point in the past. Unfortunately, when the pen arrived back in the mail and I removed the blind cap, I was greeted by a snake-in-a-can of spring and plunger button shooting out of the pen. It seems the button on the end of the plunger came loose from the metal plunger tube, letting the spring free from its housing. I've seen a lot of pictures of mostly disassembled Vacumatics, but haven't seen photographic examples of the internal plunger components. So I thought I'd post a couple images and include some insights and questions regarding my current problem. Here are the parts as they came loose from the end of my pen. The spring fits inside the shaft (presumably with the metal inset piece at the bottom of the spring) and the brass button slides on top of the end of the spring and inside the end of the sleeve. http://sethkastner.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/VacSpring-300x200.jpg click image for full size Here is my fix for giving the button a better chance of bonding securely inside the shaft. I've alternated between two paper clips to gradually compress the spring by sticking one through the spring, via the lock-down slot and using the other to keep the spring held down against the top of the slot. This way, the spring is not in contact with or placing upward pressure on the cap as it is glued and left to dry. http://sethkastner.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/VacClip-300x200.jpg click image for full size Any input on what I should use to get the button to stay? I've been considering epoxy or even good old fashion Krazy Glue. Obviously I'll need some that can hold tight with only a small amount, and I'm not particularly concerned with being able to undo the bond easily. I will using this pen regularly but gingerly and I assume that if anymore work is needed on the Vacumatic system, I'll be needing to replace the whole shebang. Thoughts? Questions? Also here's a (badly lit) picture of the whole pen (fine, arrow nib; "shadow wave" finish). It was my wife's great-grandfather's and its my favorite of all my pens. http://sethkastner.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/DSC02460-300x200.jpg
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Sadly my parker 51 has a crack in the barrel it makes me worry to use the pen fearing that some pressure might snap the barrel. So i ask how do one repair cracks in Lucite, I have been thinking of using acrylic cement but i would like to confirm if this is the correct way to go about this. Thank you for reading TheBeginner(TB)
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Okay, guys. I cant catch a break with Montblanc and this one really REALLY hurts. Like seriously gives me chest pain. I have a 1964-69 Mb 149 with all original parts. It writes well and I was surprised about how great the condition was until I noticed ink on my thumb. I couldnt figure it out until tonight. There is a hairline crack in the barrel near the collar. (In the pictures, its under the scotch tape). Im absolutely gutted. And dont know what to do. So is there a solution? Can the crack be sealed from inside the barrel? Recommendations on who might be able to help? Michael Masuyama is probably not going to help me out this time - Im assuming I need a MB expert. Im so sad right now. Shawnee
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Dear All I am looking for advice on how to contact Oxonian or someone with similar expertise in the UK or Ireland. I recently came across a Lamy 2000 review by Brad Dowdy which mentioned a problem with the nib where one tine extends further than the other. I have the same problem with mine and am seeking to get this corrected. In addition, I have an Amber Parker Duofold where the ink flow from the nib is too high and would very much like this adjusted. Any help would be much appreciated. Regards Brian
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Hi! I'm new to the fountain pen community, and am so excited to be here! I recently bought a Monteverde Monza demonstrater pen and I've noticed that there is a lot of ink in the barrel. I've taken the pen apart and I can't figure how to get the ink out. It is really frustrating me as it both ruins the pen's aesthetic and makes me wonder whether there is a flaw in the pen. Could anyone let me know how I can fix this?
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How do I go about repairing this Craftsman? I managed to easily take out the nib unit, but am stuck on taking out the packing at the base of the barrel. Also, what parts would I need to make it function again?
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For the past several years I have been doing some of my own nib smoothing with the help of a loop but need to go to the next level and get a magnifying visor, probably an illuminated one. Welcome recommendations for a visor that has multiple magnification options. Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions.
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For the past several years I have been doing some of my own nib smoothing with the help of a loop but need to go to the next level and get a magnifying visor, probably an illuminated one. Welcome recommendations for a visor that has multiple magnification options. Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions.
