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  1. I just started trying to fix older pens and in one my ebay grab bags I got Sheaffer 875 balance vac fill. (I had no idea what I was getting into. Lol) So I soaked it for a couple days, got the section unscrewed without breaking anything, the nut came off the rod easily enough, and I got the packing unit out in tact. So here's where I need help. 1. What exactly do I need? Obviously I need a plunger washer, as the other one was in 5 or 6 pieces. But how do I know if I need to replace the packing unit, washer etc? I'm really trying to spend as little as possible as my wife is an accountant and WILL call me out. For whatever parts I do need what size replacements? 2. The blind cap is stripped. It will screw on to the barrel but it wont catch the rod threads. I was thinking of putting a bit of epoxy then grease the threads so they wont stick. Good idea? Bad idea? Other ideas??? Thanks Jon
  2. I received a very beautiful, if broken, vintage button filler some time ago and started working on it last week. It needs a new sac and this I can handle, but the pressure bar is quite rough and a little rusted in some places. This is my first repair so I'm not quite sure what I can and can't do. Should I replace the bar? I can't find a right size replacement (7 cm) anywhere so I'm thinking of just using this old one. The bar is not snapped or cracked and it's still very springy.
  3. Hi Sheaffer's lovers, I recently purchased a "repair box" that I will restore lightly to become a storage box for some of my collection, and in it was this fantastic manual and parts list. I figured I would make the images available. Enjoy! Matt
  4. I have a Schaeffer Balance II, purchased years ago and the tube running through the back of the section was damaged. Has anyone had this happen to them? Any chance this can be repaired or replaced for a reasonable sum?
  5. Autopoint

    Wordathon Ballpoint Pen Cap Repair

    I'm trying to remove the cap jewel, and tighten the pocket clip, on an Esterbrook Wordathon ballpoint pen (playing with a junker, to learn the technique). Anyone have a picture of the Estie Wordathon ballpoint pen taken apart and in its various component pieces, or an exploded drawing of same? I need to drill out the part that holds the cap jewel in place, and I simply can't see into the barrel well enough to visualize what needs done. I also need to do some cleaning since the ballpoint cartridge leaked. Help. Anyone?
  6. I picked up this pen at a discount when Pear Tree was going out of business and it's endured some abuse over the years. I've taken it apart a few times to clean it including pulling the nib out of the feed to flush it with water from the sink. Increasingly, however, it's been giving me performance problems. Recently I noticed that the nib no longer goes back into the feed tightly and it is prone to some leakage. Did I screw something up, like perhaps accidentally flush an O-ring out of the feed? Is it user-serviceable if I did? (I may be in the market for a new workhorse pen soon if this is going to continue to be a pain without an easy fix. My budget would be somewhere between $20-80 and I'd want a F/XF nib which makes the Japanese pens an appealing place to look.)
  7. Martinoconnell

    Meisterstuck 146 Repair

    Hi everyone. I have a 146 bought at auction some time ago. Unfortunately I never really used it as it is leaking from around the nib. I was hoping someone could provide me with contact details for John Sorowka or another alternative for repair. I want to see other options than sending it to montblanc (170). Or maybe the montblanc price is good. Im just not sure. Many thanks in advance. Oh Im based in Ireland. M
  8. petercli

    Pfm Servicing ?

    hi, I just bought a blue Scheaffer PFM on Ebay. Any suggestions on where to get a servicing done ? Thanks, Peter
  9. RCIfan

    Esterbrook J Loose Section

    I just bought an Esterbrook J that's in pretty good condition. Unfortunately, the section is loose from the barrel and is able to spin and be removed without much force at all. None of my other Esties have this problem, so I'm wondering two things. A) Is this fixable? If so, what is the best way to repair this problem?
  10. Tschmid

    Grommet/tassie Replacement

    Hi, everyone. I am very new to Esterbrook repair and have a question. Ive got a J that had a mangled barrel jewel which I removed and found out that it was a threaded jewel. The problems Im having are that the tassie (I think thats the word for the little metal trim ring) is gone and the replacement jewel I have is a press fit. Are there sources for tassies or the grommets that the press fit pens use? Any help is much appreciated. Taylor
  11. Ruth Feiertag

    Help With Sheaffer Admiral Touchdown

    Apologies if my question has already been answered. I did a search and didn't find what I want to know. I have the Sheaffer pictured (I hope) below. I've used it a couple times without problems, but now the filler mechanism has become almost impossible to move. I looked up a couple videos on servicing touchdowns, but none were quite like the one I have with the window. The barrel of others in the videos seemed to unscrew from the feed section easily; mine won't budge and before I try to persuade it further, I thought I'd ask here if anyone knows whether the section and barrel are supposed to come apart on these models. If not, do I merely need to lubricate the metal tube of the mechanism to get it to move again? What questions should I be asking? Thanks in advance for any advice anyone has to offer. Ruth
  12. Hi, I got this Cross pen and pencil set years and years ago from Office Depot, it was the most expensive pen and pencil I ever bought, like $30 and I used it all the time. The pencil is a twist, and should take .7mm lead. I can't even remember when anymore, but at some point, the pencil just stopped working. No lead that I put in would function and I was too young to know how to take care of it (I would put lead in through the front if I was being lazy which I have since learned is actually terrible). Anyway, I have been trying to put lead inside, but there's something in there. I used a Pilot Lead Cleaner thingy and it went inside, didn't make contact with anything and didn't loosen up anything in there. I've put a wire in there and it hit against something which wouldn't budge. There doesn't seem to be a simple way to disassemble it, I've gently tugged and turned every bit of to see if I could get the guts out (I mean, I know I can take the back off and there's a little tube for lead there but that's where it's jammed, unfortunately, the little tube is too deep for me to get anything really in there, even light - I'm only guessing that it's jammed to be fair). I'm just sad because it's pretty, it's well-built, and would match perfectly with a couple of my fountain pens! If only I could get it working again. What can I do? Is there anything left that I could do, or is it dead? The set isn't really made anymore, I found one on Ebay fo $40 named Cross Classic Signature Pen & 0.7mm Pencil, and I won't pay $40 for the pencil since I don't care about ballpoints~ Anyhow, it wouldn't be the end of my life if I can't salvage it, I got a Pilot S20 that's really comfortable to write with.
  13. I have a Stipula FPN pen. If there were several series, this is from the first series. It's never written well; the flow stops. I don't like flossing tines, and slightly spreading the shoulders hasn't worked. Who can reliably repair this?
  14. strelnikoff

    Gold Nib Color Change

    Hi everyone! I've been meaning to post a question here, for some time. First a back story... I've been buying vintage pens for some time, and some sellers had statements "pen completely repaired" or "refurbished"... cleaned and polished, taken apart and put back together. Some are "as is" i.e. no work has been done, at least not by the seller. The nibs are sometimes polished and look excellent, sometimes I can see tipping material is low, sometimes tines are misaligned, sometimes everything looks perfect. The question is - after I use the pen for week or two... or month, the nib changes the color. It goes from shiny gold (if polished) to some form of dark rainbow kind of - reminds me of spring steel which is heat treated... it get's kind of blueish in some areas. Some nibs have it from vent hole to the tip, some everywhere around, some across... So - what causes this? Was the nib heat treated and gold changes the surface color in contact with ink or water? It is annoying really, I pay the price for perfectly looking pen and nib, and then I get this change. It seems that it does not affect the nib performance (though I'd challenge this observation in case that nib was heat treated, because who knows how it was performing before) ... perhaps sellers should be upfront with what was done to the nib - if they know. Any thoughts? And - would polishing pull this thin out? Maybe it was the polishing that causes this... Thank you!
  15. I can't believe this isn't a pinned topic somewhere, but I didn't see it, so... Several years ago I was bitten by the vintage fountain pen bug & acquired some (ahem) pens, mostly lever fillers. Now that it's been a while I am wondering about sac replacement. The "dumb" question (even though I know there are no dumb questions): how do I know when a pen needs a new sac? I have one pen that seems obviously in need, since it no longer holds ink. Others hold ink but I can hear slightly creaky or crackly sounds when I depress the lever. I'm guessing this means the sacs are showing signs of age but are still intact? The other question: ideally I'd love to gather up a few pens at a time & take them in-person to someone local, reliable, & reasonably priced for re-saccing. Any recommendations? I'm in Berkeley, so East Bay or San Francisco would be my first choice, Marin my 2nd choice. If necessary I'd schlep to the peninsula or wine country, but by then maybe it would make just as much sense to mail them to whomever offers best combo of expertise & price anywhere in the country. I have zero interest in doing it myself, in case that wasn't already obvious Thanks in advance!
  16. jungkind

    Lamy 2000 Ballpoint Repair

    Got hand on a complete set of, as it seems, first Generation Lamy with Etui. Unfortunately the Ballpoint has a horizontal crack just below the thread. Are there replacement "section" available and are new ones interchangeable with the early ones?
  17. em_the_pen

    Removing Section Of A Button Filler

    So I wanted to get into pen repair and tinkering so I bought a couple cheap lots of vintage pens on ebay. Most I've been able to disassemble completely so far. However, this one is a bit of a struggle. I can't seem to get the section to even think about budging. I have managed to get the pieces of the dried sack out but the section remains fixed. I've also tried removing the button and have yet to succeed but I can't replace the sack with the section locked in place like it is anyways. Infuriatingly, my hairdryer has not been of any help at all either. If anyone has any tips or ideas, I would greatly appreciate them. Thanks!
  18. Here is a tutorial on how to repair a pen I love: Wahl Eversharp Doric Second generation with plunger Filler. Hope this could help the aficionados... And please forgive my bad English... Properties of the filling system: The filling system looks like early Onoto's: it is kind of "reverse syringe" called the "one shot vacuum filler" by Eversharp. To fill the pen you have to pull the piston syringe, then dip the pen in ink and finally push the piston: it fills with ink. When you push the piston, a vacuum is created behind the piston which is released as the piston comes close to the proximal end of the barrel which is larger. Anatomy of the pen (according to Eversharp's patents) : 1: Disk nut 2: Plunger disc 3: Plunger rod 4: Rubber plunger Washer #1 5: Cork plunger Washer 6: Rubber plunger Washer #2 7: Lock nut 8: Nib 9: Feed 10: Section 11: Section pin 12: Barrel 13: Barrel brushing (AKA "packing unit") 14: Banded sleeve 15: Barrel end ("piston button") Initial cosmetic aspect of the pen: Here is a second generation oversize doric with desirable garnet shell color, adjustable nib and plunger filler, unfortunately without the ink shut off device... Two main cosmetic problems for this pen: a dent on the section and some irregular aspects of the facets. First part: pen disassembly: A. Piston button unscrew: To unscrew the piston button, first twist the piston button counterclockwise to pull the plunger rod, then with a pair of pliers hold firmly the lock nut and unscrew the piston button counterclockwise. One important thing here: you have to note where exactly the lock nut is on the plunger rod to put it in the same place for re-assembly: if you don't do so you may experience ink flow problems of filling problems at the end of the repair. Then unscrew the lock nut. B.Banded sleeve removal: The banded sleeve is press fit onto the packing unit. To remove the banded sleeve I first use a thin scalpel blade between the barrel and the banded sleeve and carefully move my hand right to left to loosen the banded sleeve. Then when you manage to create a small gap between the banded sleeve and the barrel do the same thing with a thicker and stronger blade to farther loosen the banded sleeve. Sometimes the banded sleeve is too tight and you have to use heat to loosen it (see below on how to use heat with Eversharp's celluloids). C. Packing unit unscrewing: This is for me the most feared, most time consuming, and most critical step. Not done properly you can ruin the pen forever. Always remember that Packing unit unscrews CLOCKWISE!!! Be very, very patient: It usually takes one hour to unscrew, in my experience I almost spent a day unscrewing this pen part! The key to the success is to use heat, the aim of using heat is to soften the shellac used to seal the packing unit onto the barrel. You will have to heat and cool the barrel end up to 20 times (sometimes) to unscrew the packing unit. Always use dry heat (using boiled water will make a celluloid hydrolysis and ruin the pen), never use open flame as celluloid is a furiously flammable material. I personally use a machine used to bend glasses frames, but the most common tool used is a heat gun (ideally with a variable thermostat). On the other hand heating can bend or burn celluloid: to avoid this pitfall you must always keep an eye on the celluloid you are heating. A good trick is to use a sharp pool and to push it against the heated celluloid: as soon as the celluloid starts to melt the tool starts to sink in the celluloid: this is a good alert to stop heating and to wait the celluloid to cool. NEVER try anything (like unscrewing the packing unit) when the celluloid is hot: you will bent it forever. You must protect the rest of the pen from heat: I use a sheet of paper I wrap around the pen, and only let the part I want to heat unprotected. D. Nib section unscrewing: The section unscrews counterclockwise. You have to use heat to unscrew (Cf C.). If you use heat, you don't have to use players to grab the section and the barrel (scratching it...) to unscrew, fingers are sufficient!. E. Section disassembly: First you have to get the section pin out of the section: use a needle to push the pin. On the picture the pin is broken: you will have to make another one after... Then rock the nib and feed assembly out of the section, not by pulling it but pushing it from the section back end with a flat ended cylindrical tool (nail punch) and a hammer onto a nib block (Cf picture). If the feed and nib are stuck into the section, soaking the whole section overnight in water can help. F. Disk and Disk nut disassembly: Get the plunger rod out of the pen from where the section screws on the barrel. Use pliers to grab the disk nut and unscrew it counterclockwise, using heat can help (Cf C.). Get rid of the plunger disk remnants. G. Cap disassembly: Disassembling the clip from the cap seem to be a good idea but is impossible on second generation doric (unlike first generation where the clip can be disassembled by removing the inner cap) Second Part: Cleaning and Polishing: A. Barrel and cap cleaning and polishing: Dorics are faceted pens, traditional methods of polishing (machine polishing with discs for example) are not suitable as it would ruin the facets and make the pen round. Faceting the barrel seems to be a better option. I grind each facet of the pen with sandpaper, progressively increasing the grit of the sand paper: I start at 800 grit, then 2000 grit, and end at 5000 grit: the result is a high gloss facet with a nice geometric barrel. For each facet I put the sandpaper onto a flat surface (like a mirror) and rub the facet against this flat surface making movements from the end of the barrel to the tip of the barrel (I never do any rear movements from left to right). I decide to increase the grit only when the surface of the facet is evenly flat and ground. The inner surface of the barrel can be cleaned with a soft cloth with a mix of 50% domestic ammonia and water (use gloves it dissolves inks but also skin!). NEVER use steel wool on the inner surface to the barrel as it could scratch it and damage the filling system. You can do the same for the cap, but always protect the gold plated ornaments (clip and cap band) as polishing could damage them. To protect the ornaments simply wrap tape around them. Never try to polish the facet where are the cap imprints ("Wahl Eversharp made in USA") it will definitively erase them. B. Packing unit and screw thread cleaning: Using a kind of torn pin expel the old plunger washer (see on picture). Then clean the threads of the section, the threads of the barrel (at both ends), the threads of the packing unit: clean the remnants of the sealing material which are in the threads. You can use the torn pin to put it into the threads to clean them. C. Rest of the cleaning: Cleaning nib and feed can be done using a mix of 50% domestic ammonia and 50% water: soak the nib and feed for 30 minutes then use a tooth brush to clean the feed channels. Cleaning the cap can be done using the same mixture and a clean cloth put into the cap, but do not soak the cap into the ammonia solution as it could destroy the gold platting of the clip and cap band. Polishing the gold nib and the gold ornaments can be done using a clean cloth and polishing-cleaning solutions (Mirror etc...) Third Part: Re-creating the missing parts: A. Cork plunger washer turning: To re-create the cork plunger washer I use The cork sheets which are glued to the bottom of champagne corks (it is a very good quality cork with few holes for a good seal). Use a cutter blade to separate the cork sheet from the champagne cork then flatten both ends of this sheet with sand paper (600 grit is ok). Use a punch of a diameter above the inner diameter of the packing unit to cut a small disc. Drill a hole in the center of the disc with a thin drillbit (the diameter of the drillbit must be inferior than the diameter of the plunger rod to provide good seal. Then finally fine tune the external diameter of the disk twisting it against sand paper (600 grit). The disk should be pressfit into the packing unit. B. Rubber plunger washer turning: Two or three (depending on the packing unit depth) rubber plunger washers are generally used to provide a good seal. To recreate them I use a rubber sheet (bought on Ebay) of around 1mm thickness. I cut small disks of rubber using a punch with a diameter just above the inner diameter of the packing unit. Then I drill a hole in the center of the disk just below the diameter of the plunger rod. To fine tune the external diameter of the rubber disk I set it on the drill bit and make the drill turn with the disk set on it against sandpaper (600 grit). The disk should be pressfit into the packing unit. C. Plunger disk re-creating and fine tuning: Cut a rubber disk with a punch with a diameter just above the size of the inner diameter of the barrel. Cut with a punch, or drill a hole in the center of the disk (around 2mm diameter). Set the disk onto the plunger rod screwing the disk nut clockwise (you sometimes need shellac to lock the nut onto the plunger rod) until it is blocked onto the plunger rod and then fine tune it setting the plunger rod on a drill (Dremel for example). Fine tuning the plunger disk is the second most delicate step for repairing the pen (see second pic). The rubber disk should not be too large nor too small otherwise vacuum cannot be created in the barrel. To know wether the disk is too small or too large, put the plunger rod with plunger disk in place into the barrel, then push the plunger rod and watch the plunger disk through the ink window: if the disk slightly bents upwards: it is good, but if it stays bent downward it is too large. Then pull the plunger rod and watch again the plunger disk through the ink window: if it stays flat the plunger disk is too small, if it bents downward the plunger disk could be of a good size or too large. D. Section pin re-creating: I use a stainless steel rod to re-create the section pin: I use a disk sander to decrease the diameter of the rod, polish it with sandpaper, ad cut it to the size of the native section pin. I then place it into the section pushing it with a needle. The pin should not be too large otherwise there is a risk to destroy the barrel end threads. Fourth part: Re-assembly: A. Barrel reassembly: Put the plunger rod with the plunger disc in place into the barrel, put allot of silicone grease onto the cork and plunger washers, put the plunger rod through the washers, set the washers into the packing unit, put silicone grease on the packing unit threads, screw the packing unit counterclockwise until it stops, set the banded sleeve on the packing unit end (some of the packing unit must protrude through the banded sleeve). B. Piston button reassembly: Screw the locknut clockwise on the plunger rod and set it at the same place that it was before disassembly. Screw the piston button clockwise on the plunger rod and tighten it holding the locknut with a pair of pliers. C. Section reassembly: Put the nib on the feed at the exact position it was before disassembly (some marks can be seen on the feed). Holding the nib-feed between two fingers press-fit it into the section at the same position it was before disassembly. Then put some silicone grease into the threads of the section and screw it clockwise into the barrel. Fifth part: conclusion and troubleshooting: With this method Dorics can fill up to 80% barrel capacity (back to factory standards). If the pen does not sucks ink, many problems can be encountered: proceed as follows: - First the packing unit is not airtight: unscrew section and piston button and lock nut, then insert the plunger rod into the back of the pen, with your mouth "suck" the "section end" of the barrel, if the barrel stands sticked on your tongue or lips the packing unit is airtight. If not fine tune the washers or add another rubber washer in the packing unit or put more silicone grease. - Second the plunger disc is not airtight: put the plunger back in place (through the "section end of the pen") pull the plunger rod and push it slowly downward it you ear a "pop!" it is airtight, if not fine tune the plunger disk again. If the pen is too wet writer proceed as follows: - First: repeat the first operation for "pens does not sucks ink" and wait a long time the pen sticked on your lips: if vacuum breaks there could be a subtle air breach in the packing unit. - Second: it could be a nib/feed problem (check elsewhere on the forum). If you cannot pull the piston the the end of the barrel: It seems that the plunger disc is too large: fine tune it again!! Thanks you, hope it will help Doric lovers. If you need any advice on how to repair a broken doric adjustable nib slider please check: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/316447-wahl-eversharp-adjustable-nib-slider-repair-technique/
  19. Inferno2Inferno

    Twsbi Vac Mini - Smoke Leak/crack?

    So I recently purchased a TWSBI Vac Mini in Smoke from my local fountain pen store. I must say the filling mechanism is super cool and it writes really well, however, I am having an issue with it and I am seeking FPN community input. Today when I was writing, I noticed some ink drops on my thumb and the side of my middle finger where the grip section/cap threads would normally rest on my hand. My immediate thought was that there was a crack in the pen and that it was leaking onto my fingers. However, when I ran that section of the pen across some paper, there was no ink left behind nor was there any additional ink drip after more writing. I inspected the grip and cap threads with a flashlight and a laser pointer to see if there were any cracks and failed to see anything (in a way this was perhaps unsurprising as I never dropped the pen before). This left me thinking, could it just be ink trickle from being bounced around in my knapsack, or is there actually a crack in the pen I should look to get repaired? Has anyone else experienced something similar before? Thanks for any input!
  20. I am trying to repair a small, button-fill, Gold Starry pen. I have removed the fragments of the old sac. However, I have run it to an issue with the barrel and/or nib-section threading. It was incredibly difficult to separate these intially but trying to screw them back together is even harder. It just gets stuck at the beginning or partway through and won't budge any further. I have tried to clean it but I don't know if there is much to clean. It kind feels like the threading isn't aligned correctly? But I'm not sure. Any suggestions or insight would be much appreciated. Thank you!
  21. uilleann

    Celluloid Repair Of Doric?

    I figured out how to fuse a crack on vintage celluloid, like this Ladies Hundred Year Pen. However next time I will over fill the crack and let it cure for a few weeks before I sand it down. This was done with a mix of powered celluloid (filed from old celluloid parts) and MEK. http://bobkeenanphotography.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v9/p2820048466-4.jpghttp://bobkeenanphotography.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v21/p2820048464-4.jpg So today I got a Wahl Doric and it has a big crack on the barrel. I do not think it goes all the way through the barrel wall as the section is nice and tight. Here are some pics. http://bobkeenanphotography.zenfolio.com/img/s7/v165/p2820048515-4.jpghttp://bobkeenanphotography.zenfolio.com/img/s7/v165/p2820048521-4.jpg And at a greater Magnification. http://bobkeenanphotography.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v138/p2820048510-4.jpg http://bobkeenanphotography.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v113/p2820048461-4.jpg http://bobkeenanphotography.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41/p2820048507-4.jpghttp://bobkeenanphotography.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p2820048467-4.jpg And my highest Magnification http://bobkeenanphotography.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v10/p2820048465-5.jpg The question here is will I do more harm than good with I fuse this crack like I did for the other part?
  22. My Mom just gave me her Parker Vacumatic, circa early 1940s. Before I start fiddling with it, I'd like to get it tuned-up/repaired. Can anyone recommend a good place to send it to? (I live in the US) Thanks so much!
  23. I have this Parker Slimfold which is missing its ink sac and protector. I am curious if a converter may be purchased for the pen, or if anyone could point me toward replacement parts? I will include a photo of the pen section below. Thank you
  24. The nib and feed on one of my Stylomine 303s have significant damage and I need to remove them to get a better look at and potentially replace them. However, I can't seem to get them to come out. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas? They are stuck pretty firmly in place. Thanks!
  25. Hello, I need a cap for a Waterman Patrician (if possible in BHR, but also may be in Celluloid). I would also buy an pen for restauration, so I can use the cap to complete my pen. Please make an offer! Hansjürgen





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