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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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As with any craft and hobby requiring tools there are always do it yourself home made versions. What are some of the pen repair tools you have made yourself that ended up working just as well as the actual tool? I am interested to see if there is a good DIY section pliers.
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Hey everyone, I know this has been asked many of times over the years, and I do not really suspect my issue is much more different than what others have come across, but I need some advice. I purchased a PFM V awhile back, and have been gathering the tools and parts for renewing all the old seals/sacs. I have replaced the barrel O-ring without issue, I've also changed the point gasket holder. I also had to purchase an entirely new Snorkel Tube because the old one had been disfigured by the previous restorer (broken, and missing the inner feed). Sac had petrified into the sac protector, and I have managed to clean out all the gunk so a new sac would fit. I've refitted a new sac (dusted with graphite), snorkel tube (sans shellac). Filler tube seems fine, but upon closer inspection, on the tail end of the filler (where the screw goes in) seems badly disfigured as well, probably due to the previous restorer ramming in the screwdriver, creating a few extra opening. I'm not sure if this could be major reason which it isn't creating vacuum, as I have also installed a new rubber washer (or spider washer as some say) for the screw, fashioned from an extra sac I had. I made it a bit larger in an attempt to cover up the holes. My main issue is that it would not fill (I was hoping it would, after researching on many sites on PFM repair, even Oldfield's book). There is little to no vacuum created during the upstroke, and downstrokes, even trying the methods with wetting your thumb and sticking under the barrel, there is no suction at all. I highly suspect a hairline crack, I wasn't being able to detect one, other than a few elongated scratches. Any advice? I'm considering sending this to a professional for repairs. (I'll post up pics tomorrow)
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Hi everyone! This summer as I was decluttering my grandparents' home I found an old pen - looks like it might be a frankenpen. It makes a perfect repair guinea pig for me, because the barrel is pretty enough to act as incentive, yet the pen has no sentimental value (and apparently no monetary value either) so if I mess up there's no tears or gnashing of teeth The only sticking point now is getting the supplies. I would much prefer an inclusive kit rather than collecting everything over time, because every time I've approached a new activity that way, I have invariably ended up overspending and getting more stuff than I really need because of how everyone seems to have their own favorites that they swear by and I can't sort out the absolute necessities from the personal favorites. I've found that going with a starter kit cuts through that. The other problem is price, particularly shipping. I'm in Greece, so it can add up! The ideal kit for me is inclusive, but not overwhelming, and should cost under $100 including s&h. And if it only includes tools and multiple use supplies (eg talc, polish) but no parts (like sacs), then it should be a lot less than $100 since I'd have to buy those things extra So far I have found exactly one place (the first kit probably, the second includes 'Da Book' which is probably a bit more information than I could absorb this early on). If you have experience with them, I would love to hear from you. But if you use somebody else, please let me know! I am just sort of feeling my way around right now so I'll happily take recommendations Thanks in advance!!
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I have a Doric with a #6 adjustable nib as well as the ink shut off feature which still seems to have a great working spring. However I need someone to work on the inside parts. I can take care of the nib and any body work on my own. I would prefer someone with references and plenty of experience with Dorics. If you are able to work on Dorics please message me privately with contact information and estimates. If you have a website please send a link.
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Hi all, I have a Sheaffer Snorkel that was lovely and my favourite writer. Unfortunately, it started to leak a little, then a lot. I tried to empty out the ink, figuring that then I could send it somewhere for repairs, or just take the next step. What I'm wondering now is whether or not it is possible for me to safely take apart the pen without owning any specialty tools to do so. I haven't fiddled with it before, so I'm a bit nervous. I'm wondering if it's a matter of the sac springing a leak or something. (It started out as a leak through the slit, then became a major leak through slit, and finally seemed to be leaking out of the bottom, as well.) Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
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Hello! I'm new to this site, please bear with me. I was recently given a new Caran d'Ache ballpoint pen as a graduation present, which was awesome! I then had to travel to Brasil (I'm from Peru) and just took the pen with me (not the case nor its guarantee). However, I had the misfortune to let it slip from my hands when I was about to sign a paper and it fell down with its tip first. Now the pen won't write properly, it is intermittent and the retractable function will only work when I wish the tip of the pen to appear. When I try to hide it, it just stays there.. I don't know if I did the right thing but I pushed the tip into the pen so it won't get any more damage (that's how I know I can make the tip appear but not hide it when I turn the upper part a bit). I tried to look for an image of my pen but I don't seem to find any so I'll describe it: it is a ballpoint pen, retractable, has 2 parts the lower part is red with the point silver and the upper part is silver with vertical lines that with it a bit of texture, in order to make the tip appear or dissapear you have to turn the upper part a bit to the left/right. Hope you can help me, any advices regarding what is the best thing I can do will be extremely appreciated
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I just recently got a Sheaffer Vac Fill from an antique mall today. I was able to gently work the piston out and get a look at the ring inside with the use of a flashlight. The rod goes out with some resistance and in with much less. I haven't tried to fill it or flush it because, go forbid, it deteriorates even more. The nib is dirty but aligned and seems like it would work. My main question is about the filler system. I don't know the exact condition of the rings or the packing on the end and so I'm afraid to flush it to see if it would be smoother. I am unable to fully push the rod in because the pen starts making this squeaking/scratching sound when I try to screw it in to the base of the pen so I just have it sitting slightly out. When I looked at it with the flashlight, it looked like there was dried ink lightly coating the inside of the barrel. So, on to my main question. Should I send it to get repaired or try to flush it with water and see if that works? I am willing to spend the money to get it repaired if it really needs it but I don't want to, or wait 4 months, if I can use it now. If you suggest I get it repaired, can you give me some places that are recommended for Sheaffer repairs ( I know they one of the most difficult)? I will post pictures if wanted but otherwise please let me know your opinion. Thank you!
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I'm looking into getting a heat gun, and was wondering if anyone has a specific brand or type that they particularly like (or any other advice)? I know that I want a variable temperature heat gun that can go down to 140 degrees, any recommendations for stores or brands that are good places to start?
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I was working on making my Sheaffer touchdown 14k and Platinum/Palladium 2 tone nib a little wetter. In the process I got a couple scratches on what before was a fairly pristine nib when the feeler guage I was using slipped out and skidded acrossed one tine. Just big enough to see with the eye. It did not effect the gold section. Being that this nib is only plated is it even possible to buff scratches out of such a nib?
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Hi everyone, I'm looking for a few suggestions of how to best have two of my vintage Parkers repaired. The first is a Parker Vacumatic with lockdown filler system. The pen was working fine until the diaphragm broke (my assumption, I have not opened the pen to look). http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd236/DocSmitty7/Pens/20130319_231029.jpg The second is a Parker Challenger button fill. The pen was bought knowing it needed repairs, but everything looks to be in working order except for the bladder being non-existent.. when I opened the pen (any shellac was long since gone), tons of tiny chunks came raining out. http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd236/DocSmitty7/Pens/IMG_4184.jpg I would love to find someone that does not have a months-long backlog, but I know the most popular names will be popular because of the quality of their work. Thanks! (edited to add pics, duh!)
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Hello all, I've been collecting and enjoying fountain pens for many years, but I have never repaired one. My collection includes a couple of dozen pens that likely only need a new sac and a good cleaning. My question is, what tools or resources do I need to get started in basic restoration? I have an ultrasonic cleaner already and the basic household tools. I didn't see any pinned posts on this, so I thought I'd ask. Not looking to repair nibs at this time, just replacing sacs/bladders and maybe corks in piston fillers. Thanks for any replies! Erik
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Many people have asked when the book will be in print again. Well, it is now, and it is being mailed out. Fountain Pen Hospital, Classic pens, Five Star Pens and Pendemonium will shortly have copies for US customers. Personally signed copies can only be obtained from the authors. Please see www.penpractice.com for a list of contents, sample pages and procedure for obtaining a copy. Laurence
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Hello, I have started my week by breaking the top cap "plastic button" on my vacumatic... What do I need to do to repair this? can I simply glue it back or do I need to buy some replacement parts such as clip or whole cap ? please advise ! thanks ;-)
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Hi everyone ! Recently, I've got a nice 500 from a antique shop.But when I tried to knock the piston unit,I've ruined the barrel.Now I will buy a 400nn brown tortoise parts to replace my 500. Now I have two solutions here 1. Knock the 400nn piston unit out and replace with the 500 piston knob (is it compatible?) 2. Just change the cap and become a 500nn Any another better methods? Thanks
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Hi all I have mainly been a lurker on FPN, but I have a question. I impulsively bought a Doric off of EBay, for around $100.00. I really shouldn't be spending any more money on pens till I fix, repair and sell some of my collection. However I jumped in the auction and managed to land the pen. According to the description it is a manifold nib. I have been reading about Dorics a little here and there and I see some pens came with an adjustable nib. Did I overpay for the pen since it has a manifold nib? Pen looks to be in good condition, it would I am sure need a new ink sac. Should I attempt the ink sac repair myself or leave it to the professionals? Who would you have repair the pen? Should I consider putting a flex nib in it or leave it alone?
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Sent my Lamy 2000 w/ med nib in for repair about a week ago...how soon can I expect it back? I've emailed Bob Nurin multiple times but he has not responded yet - is this normal? For those interested my nib had skipping problems and wasn't very smooth.
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I recently bought a "BBB" nib Parker Tellevisor (Canadian?, 1940s?) which is quite a decent pen but has most of the tipping missing from one tine. I doubt that one could find a Televisor nib now but would any other Parker nibs fit? How difficult would it be to change it?
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Ok, I've read posts about thread sealing and every once in a while some guy (probably a handyman kind of guy like me) thinks they have discovered a new way to seal pen threads (usually with teflon tape). So here we go again. I like to tinker with all kinds of stuff including, plumbing, engines and fountain pens. I had considered teflon tape, but thankfully recognized that it was too thick before I used it. But I have had a revelation when reading about rosin sealants. There is an automotive product used to create seals between high pressure components. It is much like rosin in that it is somewhat flexible, but creates a nice seal. "Gasket Maker" is what it's commonly called. Some compounds are a silicon base. There may be others. Since I am sealing only one pen I wanted to try to use what I had on hand.
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Okay, so I have a Pierre Cardin mechanical pencil, one where you twist the top to get the lead out. I dropped it today and the plastic on the inside (where the top plastic cap screws in) cracked. Whenever I try to screw the top in tightly/get more lead out, the crack opens and as a result, I can't get the lead out. I've tried to super glue the crack, but it's not holding. Any other tips?
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I really don’t believe it’s the standard service Waterman provides its customer and that’s why I’m sharing this bad experience here. In August 28th I personally delivered my faulty Waterman Carene nib to the Waterman customer service (CS) in Sao Paulo, at the Newell Rubbermaid office. I was told that in 30 days, max, I would have it back. As I did not get it back within a month and was not contacted by the CS to explain what happened I called them in October 08th, when I was informed I would receive a new nib and that it was on its way from France to Brazil. Today is December 2nd - in this period I called the CS a half-dozen times to know why I have not received the nib. The last call was this morning, when they told me the nib got missed and informed I should wait 30 more days for it to be delivered! Can you believe that? In an era of instantaneous communication and courier systems that can deliver a package anywhere in the globe overnight it’s completely unacceptable waiting two months, not to mention one more to come, for a nib to be delivered by Waterman CS! Regards, Marcelo
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The jewel from the cap of my Epoch 360 fountain pen has fallen off. Should I glue it back on, or are there mysteries involved? Regards, Jim Crutchfield
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Jinhao X450 Ink Not Flowing Into The Feed
Ein Verfasser posted a topic in China, Korea and Others (Far East, Asia)
I have a Jinhao X450 (marbled finish) that I got a while ago when I bought a couple of Chinese pens (one is my knock-about Hero 110 that's quite good). I avoid Chinese pens unless I need something that I can use when working in the lab or that can be knocked-about, be lost (or stolen). Given that, I don't usually pay more than $10 for them, and don't care much if they don't work. But I have taken a liking to the very sturdy brass and enamel construction and the excellent M nib that I have gotten used to (though I greatly prefer F and EF nibs and usually avoid M or bigger because it is impractical to write calculations with them, and the fact that I simply really like EF nibs). Unfortunately, after writing two paragraphs, a vacuum forms inside the converter and no ink at all flows into the feed/nib section. I end up having to turn the piston in and out to manually draw air in every ten minutes. I took every single piece of the pen apart and soaked it in household bleach (it was fine, but please don't anyone soak their Montblanc in bleach! I DO NOT recommend trying this on any pen you spend more than $10 on! ). Cleaned every single channel and section with a little nylon brush. Everything was free of any contaminant or manufacturing residue. Put everything back together perfectly. Tested pen. . . And the same thing happened. I can hear a slow bubbling sound as the air tries to get into the reservoir. It is obvious that the feed system is not allowing for any air to enter. The system consists of a partially hollow feed with a little capillary feed that slips inside of it, it is this narrow little capillary feed that plugs into the tiny hole in the section and connects to the converter's reservoir. I don't think the design facilitates for any air to enter to stop a vacuum forming. Does anyone else's X450 do this? Is there any way to fix it? I would really like to find a way to solve the problem, as I have taken a liking to the pen. Thanks in advance for any advice. -
Recently, I acquired a vintage Parker 51 Vacufill. It's a really pretty pen; India Black barrel, Gold filled cap with a perfect Blue Diamond and jewel and a fine 14k gold nib. The barrel says its 1st quarter 1948 and the nib is stamped 1947. This was an eBay pen, and seller purported the pen to be cleaned, flushed, re-sacked, and in good working order. Contrary to the best advice, I filled the pen with Montblanc Midnight Blue (the old batch) and observed a little bit of tooth, a very fine and somewhate dry line. After a short while, I emptied the pen and soaked her for about 20 hours ... re-inked her in Diamine Evergreen and tried again. She remained toothy and writing on the dry side. I flushed and soaked her again, and inked her up with Shaeffer Black Skrip, which my other Parker 51s absolutely thrive on. Same result .. she wrote fine and dry for about a paragraph or so, and then quit altogether. Time for a look under the hood, pardon the pun. The hood was removed (strangely, without any heat) to inspect the collector and the breather tube. The tube, was a plastic replacement type (fine with me I think) and the collector was soaked in pen flush (soap, water and some ammonia) for 30 hours ... I managed to get the collector clean enough, though it was badly stained, but the fin gaps were very clear and the breather tube as well. Long story long, reassembled, inked up with the Diamine Evergreen. She was nice and wet for a paragraph or two and then slowly and completely died away. Although the genius of the Parker design has become evident to me, I'm thinking the issue here is a nib issue. The right side of the nib looks a little worn compared to the left, but I'm not sure that is the issue or not. Other than that, I'm fairly well in the dark here and ready to send the pen out for a professional remedy. Anyone have any input before I box her up? Do I send her to a nibmeister or a general repairman? I'm confounded for the moment and would like to hear the general brainstrust, perhaps others with a common experience ... I also obtained a Parker 51 Aerometric from eBay around the same time, a 1954 Special, and it is the sweetest, most reliable and enjoyable writing instrument I own, or close. Thanks .... Parker 51s ... I certainly DO get it!
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Hello all! I got an Aurora 88k a while back and now I thought I might use it. It's in very nice shape, the piston seems to work fine, and its serial number is in the 2.2 millons. I got it becuase of its designer, Nizzoli, also designed the typewriters I prefer to use, the Lettera 22 and Studio 44 by Olivetti. I've used Parker 51s before, so I've very gently flushed it like I would a Vacumatic 51, and it's just about ready to use. Is there anything to look for before I put some Waterman's Florida Blue in it to test it out? The piston seems to work, and hold water fine. If it doesn't work, after seeing the screw at the end of the plunger, is there anything I do can to fix it? Does anyone in the US fix Auroras?
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Hello FPN community. Although I have been a member for a while I haven't been very active. I am pretty naive when it comes to fountain pens. I love writing with them and even refilling them. I have a Lamy Safari which writes great, but is difficult to carry bc it's too long for my shirt pockets, and the clip is loose. But I recently purchased a Pelikan MK10 from ebay. It was great for a while, but now every time I take the cap off there is ink on the grip part (sorry, I don't know the lingo). I tried cleaning it with a damp rag and it seems to draw more ink onto the surface instead of clean it. I was just going to toss it and get something else, but after cruising the forum a bit I wondered if there was diagnostics I could do to find the problem and maybe repair it.
