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  1. Avocet

    Vintage 51 Woes ...

    Recently, I acquired a vintage Parker 51 Vacufill. It's a really pretty pen; India Black barrel, Gold filled cap with a perfect Blue Diamond and jewel and a fine 14k gold nib. The barrel says its 1st quarter 1948 and the nib is stamped 1947. This was an eBay pen, and seller purported the pen to be cleaned, flushed, re-sacked, and in good working order. Contrary to the best advice, I filled the pen with Montblanc Midnight Blue (the old batch) and observed a little bit of tooth, a very fine and somewhate dry line. After a short while, I emptied the pen and soaked her for about 20 hours ... re-inked her in Diamine Evergreen and tried again. She remained toothy and writing on the dry side. I flushed and soaked her again, and inked her up with Shaeffer Black Skrip, which my other Parker 51s absolutely thrive on. Same result .. she wrote fine and dry for about a paragraph or so, and then quit altogether. Time for a look under the hood, pardon the pun. The hood was removed (strangely, without any heat) to inspect the collector and the breather tube. The tube, was a plastic replacement type (fine with me I think) and the collector was soaked in pen flush (soap, water and some ammonia) for 30 hours ... I managed to get the collector clean enough, though it was badly stained, but the fin gaps were very clear and the breather tube as well. Long story long, reassembled, inked up with the Diamine Evergreen. She was nice and wet for a paragraph or two and then slowly and completely died away. Although the genius of the Parker design has become evident to me, I'm thinking the issue here is a nib issue. The right side of the nib looks a little worn compared to the left, but I'm not sure that is the issue or not. Other than that, I'm fairly well in the dark here and ready to send the pen out for a professional remedy. Anyone have any input before I box her up? Do I send her to a nibmeister or a general repairman? I'm confounded for the moment and would like to hear the general brainstrust, perhaps others with a common experience ... I also obtained a Parker 51 Aerometric from eBay around the same time, a 1954 Special, and it is the sweetest, most reliable and enjoyable writing instrument I own, or close. Thanks .... Parker 51s ... I certainly DO get it!
  2. jacquesdubois

    Restoring/fixing An Aurora 88K

    Hello all! I got an Aurora 88k a while back and now I thought I might use it. It's in very nice shape, the piston seems to work fine, and its serial number is in the 2.2 millons. I got it becuase of its designer, Nizzoli, also designed the typewriters I prefer to use, the Lettera 22 and Studio 44 by Olivetti. I've used Parker 51s before, so I've very gently flushed it like I would a Vacumatic 51, and it's just about ready to use. Is there anything to look for before I put some Waterman's Florida Blue in it to test it out? The piston seems to work, and hold water fine. If it doesn't work, after seeing the screw at the end of the plunger, is there anything I do can to fix it? Does anyone in the US fix Auroras?
  3. Hello FPN community. Although I have been a member for a while I haven't been very active. I am pretty naive when it comes to fountain pens. I love writing with them and even refilling them. I have a Lamy Safari which writes great, but is difficult to carry bc it's too long for my shirt pockets, and the clip is loose. But I recently purchased a Pelikan MK10 from ebay. It was great for a while, but now every time I take the cap off there is ink on the grip part (sorry, I don't know the lingo). I tried cleaning it with a damp rag and it seems to draw more ink onto the surface instead of clean it. I was just going to toss it and get something else, but after cruising the forum a bit I wondered if there was diagnostics I could do to find the problem and maybe repair it.
  4. richardthecao

    Rotring 600

    Hi guys, I'm relatively new to fountain pens but yesterday I just received a Rotring 600 fountain pen with gold trim! It writes very well, but there are two problems. First, it looks like the finish is missing. I don't mean brassing but literally it looks as if someone took acid to it or something. Also, it's missing the red Rotring logo by the cap. Is there any way to fix this? Thanks!
  5. rodtyler1008

    Noir Et Noir Nib/cap Alignment

    Good evening fellow fountain pen enthusiasts, Today I am posting my first on the FPN but I must say, being a silent member for over a year, I have really enjoyed reading the Montbanc posts and following the people who post more frequently. I got my first Montblanc two years ago when I was 18. It was the Montblanc 147 75th Passion and Soul edition with an EF nib and it is still in my rotation. Today I am writing to you all with a question about two of my Montblanc Noir et Noir Fountain Pens. I have to admit that at the time of purchase of my first Noir et Noir, I was under the assumption that it was a Boheme until I realized that there was an absent ring fitting below the threads. With further examination, I noticed that the ring at the end of the pen where the cap posts did not say “Boheme” but instead “Noir et Noir.” It was then that I realized that I had stumbled upon the pen that preceded the Boheme but was later recalled by Montblanc due to copywrite infringement of the name “Noir et Noir.” I was pleasantly surprised when I read that! Unfortunately I over tightened the cap on the back of the pen and broke off the hinged piece where the ink cartridge goes. So early September I took a four hour drive down to the St. Petersburg to visit family and to drop of my Noir et Noir to be fixed along with my Czar Nikolai I Legrand FP which needed to be serviced. It was by luck that when I was down there I checked local CL Listings and found someone who was selling a broken Noir et Noir, coincidentally with the same problem mine had. So I ended up buying it from him and dropping three pens off at the Montblanc Boutique. Last Friday I received all three of my fountain pens back and all of them were functional again. There is just one detail on both the Noir et Noir that has been bothering me. When uncapping the pens and screwing them on the end for writing to retract the nib, neither clips line up with the nibs like I remember them to. So my question is, am I recalling this incorrectly or is the clip on the cap supposed to align with the nib when posted for writing? To me this is a very important detail because without the cap posted the Noir Et Noir is much smaller and almost unbearable to write with and that is why I would think Montblanc would have taken the time to align this correctly. In closing, we all love Montblanc because of their fine attention to detail and I would hate to think that Montblanc has a technician who is so carless and sloppy not to check to see if the pens post correctly. I will post pictures of my Noir et Noirs so that you can see what I am referring to and I would appreciate if you own a Noir et Noir or a Noir et Rouge or a Boheme with retractable nib, to post pictures of your pens posted to compare and see if the cap lines up with the nib. I know how helpful all of you are so thank you in advance for all your help! With much appreciation, Tyler
  6. Ein Verfasser

    Parker 51 Vacumatic Resonating/rattling

    I have a 1948 Parker 51 Vacumatic that I have recently restored to perfect condition (including super smooth NOS fine nib), except for one persisting flaw: It writes very well and smoothly, but when passing over any kind of paper at a particular speed, I hear a rather loud and incredibly annoying resonance that has a low pitch and sounds more like a rattling/scraping noise. I took everything apart, used hot water to set the feed tightly against the nib (I thought that would be the problem), straightened the breather tube so it wouldn't rattle against the side of the barrel and used cyanoacrylate ('super') glue on its outside surface to change the mass (and ∴ Resonant frequency), used a little bit of rubber wedged between the breather tube and collector to make sure it wouldn't resonate there, made sure nothing was loose or shaking. Put together and sealed the clutch-ring and hood. And . . . it still rattles. -It's not the filler mechanism that makes the sound. It doesn't sound anything like a singing nib, and doesn't atomise any ink, puts down a really smooth sharp fine line, but I'm not ruling out the possibility . . . The noise drives me mad and spoils an otherwise ideal (for me/IMO) pen. I am at wit's end as to what the problem could be; the only thing I can think of is a resonating nib or the breather tube, by some miracle is rattling. My only other conclusion is that it is a design flaw, but my Hero 110 (every day knock-about pen) is 100% solid and quiet (but it does have a rubber/silicon sac, not solid barrel where breather tube is). So, has anyone else encountered this problem, is it a part of all Vacumatic 51s? Any solutions?
  7. For context, a few words about me first... I grew up writing with fountain pens from kindergarten through graduate school... First using Pelikans then mostly Lamys (For math and engineering)... So I know a thing or two about fountain pens and nibs... I have an ok collection including some Montblancs from that time... Fairly recently I've decided to use fountain pens again at work. So I became first a lurker, then a member here. After much research offline and online - in particular on this forum, I've recently bought a Pelikan M805 in all black. Needless to say that I am totally in love with it!!! That takes us to the topic of this post... Richard Binder I had a very bad prior experience with a very established and reputable store in town, which completely ruined a new Kaweco Elite, that I had bought online and simply wanted to be a bit wetter. They still owe me a replacement after approx 6 months! Decided not to make the same mistake again, I followed the advice read on this forum and ordered the M805 from binderspens. "Binderization" was what attracted me. And indeed, I am so delighted with Richard and Barbara's service that I felt compelled to write this post. First they sent me exactly the pen I had ordered, with a slightly broad M nib due to Binderization. So I contacted them to replace or fix the nib and make it slightly narrower. They both very kindly responded to my many emails asking for advice (e,g., about ink), and prompted me to include writing samples. As a result, they reground a nib to my EXACT specifications, and sent me back not only the nicest pen, but also the best writer I've ever had!! In an age of consumerism and mass online orders, where employees at brick-and-mortar stores often have no idea about fountain pens, Richard and Barbara's services are an island of honesty, kindness and simply good craftsmanship! Thank you! CP
  8. dxing97

    Hero Nib Adjustment

    Recently, by dad brought back two Hero fountain pens, a 7018, and a 7029, both medium nibs (did not actually say on the pen or packaging, my estimate) from china. Both were about 15 USD. The 7018 went to my brother and I got the 29. Within a week, by brother had dropped it nib-first. The strangest thing was that the nib tip did not sustain serious damage. The tines were misaligned, but that was corrected. However, the nib had been pushed into the pen, and since then, I haven't been able to get it out back to where it was (and have been unwilling to try). Top is the 7029, bottom is the 7018 Is there any way to get it pushed out back to where it was? Is it better to leave it the way it is? (it still writes, and I haven't seen a large difference in flow, etc.) (note where the gold flower is)
  9. TSherbs

    Leaking Ahab!

    No matter how far in I seat the feed, I can't get my Ahab to stop draining ink into the cap after a few hours, and this happens whether I am holding it or not (the issue is not heat-related). I have been very careful to clean and align the nib and feed properly in the section, and the feed does have a breather hole and does come with a breather tube which I have been using. Any advice on how to get this pen to stop draining? Thank you! ps: my two Konrads have never had this problem, but this is my first Ahab.
  10. Dear all, I've recently remember how much of a engineering marvel the Sheaffer snorkel is. After finding my pen I noticed how the gold plating on the cap, both on the clip and wide cap ring was fading considerably to a brass like finish. Would anyone know how to restore the finish of the gold back to its original luster? Thanks, Badger
  11. Greetings Everyone- I am new here (just joined) and fairly new to fountain pens and forums in general. I have a repair question and am grateful for any help and advice. I recently bought a vintage Aurora Hastil and have discovered that the nib turns in the section (I think that is what it is called) and am guessing that this is not good. Is this repairable? If so, would sending it to Aurora be the best option or is there somewhere else that can fix this? Thanks in advance for any thoughts! Octatonic
  12. I am hoping someone has a suggestion for a Dunn Pen. My Tattler Jr. with Ruby Bakelite barrel has a crack in the small ring that keeps the piston from being pulled out, so it won't stay on if the piston is pulled back. It appears to be hard rubber, but I am not sure of that. Any suggestions to seal the crack in a way that is strong enough to hold? There is ZERO need for it to be cosmetically appealing based on the location. Sounds like adhesives are out. Can I melt it shut with a soldering iron, or will that just mess up the threads on the inside? Tie some thread or dental floss around it before replacing it? Fine wire to hold it tight? Could I be so lucky that someone would know of a suitable replacement?
  13. I'm a big fan of tuckies, and recently came across this beautiful cap and body in an ebay lot. I believe it is an early tuckaway model without a cap clip. I have been thinking about trying my hand at vacuum-fil repair, and I like what's left of this pen enough to give it a shot. I'm holding up on this adventure until I can secure the right nib for it. was the nib in this pen a triumph or open nib, and does the donor pen have to be precisely the same mode? what are my chances of ever finding a supplier for this nib?
  14. Hi, I wanted to get some advice about adhering a section into the barrel and the type of nib. I recently won a Retro 51 Double-8 L.E. NOS fountain pen off eBay. The pen is made from cellulose acetate and I was wondering if I could use shellac to glue the section to the barrel? I don't want the shellac to discolor or be seen from the outside. I don't know if I use shellac if I could heat it up later and remove it without damaging the parts. Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations for adhesives? Secondly, the nib. Is this an early Delta Fusion nib or a full 18k nib? It really looks like it has an 18k inlaid top. I'm pretty sure its full 18k nib but I just wanted another opinion. Either way the seller never stated it as 18K and it feels and writes just like my OMAS Paragon 18k nib, so I'm very happy. Thanks, IKWarren
  15. Does anyone have experience with the disassembly of a Lamy Studio? I understand from other threads that it should be similar to a Lamy Safari - grab the feed and pull it out - but I don't manage to get it to move. I tried to pull it out, using rubber gloves to have good grip, but no luck. I also tried to push it out by pressing it down on a plastic tube, nothing. Is there a lever that I have to press down or so? Any suggestions will be appreciated!
  16. administr4tor

    Repairing My Badly Broken Lammy Safari

    hello friends, In effort of making Lamy more smooth and darker I broke my lamy pen beyond its limit and then I became sad and repaired it, check out images, basically I broke the feed of lamy safari completely so please look at images and post your suggetions/comments too.( I am using original lamy ink ) IMAGE 1 - broken Lamy. IMAGE 2 - Tools needed - flat surface is needed - Dont use magic glue it wont work for long, I tried that too. - blow some hot air so that moisture or any ink/water will go. - A small filer tool and sharp pointed thin blade / surgical blade will also be needed to remove the extra glue after joint get dried IMAGE 3 - Repairing Process - - take out every part and put them in hot water for 10 minutes or so. - clean out parts by taking out of water with brush so that the feed will get completely from any type of small particles which can cause choking. - take out of water and then clean with dry cloth and then put hot air and let them dry. - ready the glue and then put the glue with pointed tool like a pin or anything because using pointing pin wont put too much of glue. - join the parts and calibrate them on flat surface and see the calibration with eyepiece because you dont want a imbalanced fed which will never fit again inside. - let the joint dry under air for 3,4 hours depends on the glue , I prefer overnight , after 10-15 minutes you can put some hot air if you like. - then clean the lines of feed with pointed tool ( use injection syringe needle because it is hollow and pointed it took the extra glue in its hole) because at joints the glue is choking the drain and you have to clean the drain else pen wont work. - reassemble the pen and it will work. This is my second attempt to repair this pen. First attempt worked but not for long because I used Super fast glue and that didnt hold it for long so I have to use this glue. Regards. Post your suggestions for lamy , I am new to lamy but using all types of pens mostly local brands and few other from very beginning. :-)
  17. as found before, im 16, and only have $70 in my pocket. ive been trying to get a job, to no luck as of yet. is there any way i can stretch this money to be able to start up and run the buisness? i want to use it as a money making source... so i can get more pen stuffs!(and other stuff i keep glaring at) my parents arent helping with funding, so its going to have to work :/ it'll get me money faster, because i dont think repairing pens goes to the extent of having restricted work hours haha.
  18. krandallkraus

    Separation Anxiety

    HELP! The section of my beautiful M600 separated from the barrel. I'm too embarrassed to say how it happened. Let's just say I had an AARP moment while flushing my pens. Where can I send it for repair? It's not "broken", i.e., cracked or smashed. It seems to just need re-attaching, but I'm not sure I want to fool with it myself unless it's a really straightforward fix someone might walk me through. Any suggestions, referrals are greatly appreciated.
  19. krandallkraus

    Separation Anxiety

    HELP! The section of my beautiful M600 separated from the barrel. I'm too embarrassed to say how it happened. Where can I send it for repair? I'm not sure I want to fool with it myself unless it's a really straightforward fix. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  20. Hi everybody, I asked the same question in the repair section, but did not get any response. So I hope I am going to be more successful here. I have a Duofold Lucky 8 version. On top of the cap there is a kind of gold disc. This disc has spontaneously fallen of. I would like to get a recommendation what type of glue I need to use to fix it. But I don't want to damage the plastic of the cap or 'oxidise' the gold disc. And I don't want to run the risk that it will fall of again (as I am afraid that I might lose the disc). Should I use, epoxy or superglue or something else? Thanks for any help! Lucas
  21. blbjdtny

    Waterman 552 1/2 V

    Friend found an old 552 1/2 V it's a lever fill and he would like it restored, who are the FPN members that restore these pens, I'm assuming the pen is from the 20's.
  22. Voormas

    Help With M144

    Hello dear MB enthusiasts, I recently found a MB piston filler at a flea market. So far I was more interested in Pelikan - but slowly I open my eyes to MB. So I got a nice little Meisterstück M144 with a BB nib that looks bend but writes wonderfully. But after using the pen once the piston mechanism gave up The pen is probably to old to hand it in at an MB Boutiqe and I haven't got the right tools to even disassemble it. Do your have any advice? Is there somebody in Germany or Europe who could fix this at a reasonable price? Thank you very much in advance, Markus
  23. SplinterCell38

    Clip Repair

    Hello All, I'm very new to the world of fountain pens, and I just recenty got my first pen when my father found, and then gave me, his old Parker Maxima that he used in high school. The pen seems to be in good working order, but the clip is a bit loose. (Hopefully the photos illustrate this?) Does anybody have any suggestions about how to fix the clip in place? Glue seems like an obvious solution, but I'm not sure as to which one to use, etc. Many thanks!
  24. This is just a short note, but I made a call today to the richmond uk service centre, and they could not tell me if hamburg is still forging or using nos for 1920s pens. Also if they were doing nibs as i know from my past visit.Forging nibs was still going on. Im not so sure about levers, i seek a lever round type with mb i'm pleased to remember it as being the 1927-8 lever on the simplo coral from rosler, their were on 4 anyways. ciao gm

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