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  1. EdBurke

    Waterman #58 Needs Restoration

    My Fellow Collectors, I have a Waterman #58 that needs a sac, a nib adjustment, possibly seals and an appropriate clip installed. I would like to send it to a highly recommended repair person accustomed to working on old Waterman hard rubber pens (this one is a red ripple pattern). It is a hard to find pen, so I am trying to be as careful and responsible as possible. I expect that within 15 years my modest collection will end up on the market and for a poor old professor (community college) this #58 is the most valuable pen in my Waterman collection, thus I see this as a restoration for my enjoyment and conservation for the next owner. I will appreciate all recommendations including self-recommendations from experts. Thank you, Ed
  2. lordz

    Fixing Scratched Celluloid

    Hiya, Lord Z here. I am looking at buying an old vacumatic. It has small scratches, like those common on well used plastic. I want to return the piece to a good looking, shiny state. Would you recommend (1) buffing, and if so, how, (2) an acetone-fume (not liquid, just vapor) bath, like those used on ABS 3D prints, or, (3) a little tiny bit of brasso (Which happens to clean ABS to a nice shiny state, and, so, I assume, should do the same to celluloid.) Also, there is a little bit of crud or tarnish on the clip and other metal bits. Is this gold plated in the vacumatic, or are these pieces brass/rolled gold? Should I clean it with brasso or a more gentle process, like a toothbrush and alcohol? Thanks, Lord Z
  3. George697

    Where Can I Find An Pen Sac?

    Does anyone know when i can get a pen sac to replace a broken one? I need one for an old hero pen my mom got in her high school years. Any ideas where i can get just one?
  4. Hi Pelikan fans, I wanted to share my recent experience with my newly purchased M800, and regrettably, some horrible experience dealing with Chartpak. This reveals some important changes to the Pelikan's warranty policies, and I thought my experience may inform any prospect buyers of Pelikan fountain pens. Long story short: Chartpak will NOT service any Pelikan fountain pens purchased outside of North America even though you are the first owner with the original receipt. Never mind the service fees or Pelikan warranty; Chartpak management will REFUSE to service your pen under any circumstances. Period. Just over a month ago, I stumbled upon a great bargain and purchased a Pelikan M800 fountain pen from a German retailer. To my dismay however, the F nib I received turned out to be troublesome and it just did not write correctly. I contacted the seller, and he suggested I send back the nib for a section swap but the shipping the pen back to Germany was going to cost me $95.00 UPS + weeks of waiting time (I live in Chicago, IL). I thought this was a little too expensive for me so I decided perhaps I can contact Chartpak and they will be able to help me out. It is a brand new pen and the pen comes with 3 year warranty after all. Within the next couples days, I heard back from Abi Weeks and her response was: show us the receipt first. So I wrote her back with the copy of the receipt and the dealer stamp, and a few days later she wrote back to me saying that Chartpak will not service the pen, no explanations provided. The response was rather surprising for me because this was a brand new pen and I was the first owner. I wrote another email to Abi Weeks asking about the reasons for the refusal of services because I wanted to know that I would be able to repair my pen in the future should I have any problems with it. Abi only told me that Chatpak will not service the pen and it was the "decision made by the Chartpak management." The only reason I could think of was because the pen was purchased from Germany, not America. Nevertheless, Chatpak's stance was rather absurd because the pen I purchased was defective to start with, never mind the 3 years warranty. I understand that sometimes when a product was purchased from outside the service country, companies charge service to to account for the labor cost, and I was okay with that. I have never experienced complete refusal of any kind services with no explanations of the refusal provided. I don't know about other fountain pen users, but when I spend hundreds of dollars on a pen, I feel that I am also paying for the services. The hardware alone can never justify the high cost of these pens. When I pay a lot of money for a fountain pen, I want the confidence that I will be able to enjoy this writing instrument for a long time, and if I have any problems, they can be fixed, sometimes with a cost. Pelikan's excellent warranty service was not a small part in my decision to purchase the new M800, and all the more reasons why the experience dealing with Chatpak was extremely disappointing. As far as I know, Chatpak is the only official repair services Pelikan has in North America. I don't know how I can go about repairing the pen in future if I have any problems with the pen. I guess I will have to go with other skilled third party repairman.
  5. flavadog6

    Newbie - Par1333211

    I am a new member and admittedly not overly knowledgeable with pens. The pen was a gift from my wife on my first day of work (coming on 8 years). The sentimental value vs the cost of replacing ($20) aren’t even close. As you can see in the picture the point does not fully extend any longer when engaged. I tried replacing the spring from another Parker pen I have with no luck. Can anyone offer a suggestion? Thank you!
  6. mainhoon999

    Nibmeister In India

    Does any one have any idea, where can I find a nibmeister in India? I recently bought a Lamy Safari (my first fountain pen). Although it has an extra fine nib, it is still not fine enough for my liking(I have been using ball point pens all my life). I've come to know about several sites like mike-it-work but I would like to find some in India itself. Please help.
  7. Dear All, I have the following two pens that I am trying to get into working condition. The first is marked "Swan" self-filler Mabie Todd 7 Co. Ltd. Made in England on the barrel, with S-F 210 C at its base and SF2 on the part the nib sits in. The nib is marked Swan 2 14Ct Mabie Todd Co. Ltd The second, which appears to have an italic nib is marked "Swan" self-filling pen Mabie Todd and Co. Ltd. Made in England on the barrel, with 2 S. F-MBRD at its base and also SF2 on the part the nib sits in, while the nib itself says Mabie Todd and Co. N.Y. 2 Neither has a sac and one is missing its cap. Can anyone advise me on where I might buy sacs for these pens, and what size? Is there any chance of finding a cap? Is there a particular way they ought to be treated on reassembly? Both are also quite faded. Many thanks for your help and sorry if these questions are ignorant or have obvious answers already presented (I did a bit of a search, but couldn't quite find what I was looking for). Sorry also for the wretched picture. regards, Ben
  8. Hi everyone. This will be my first post in here. I am looking for help regarding my Aurora Ypsilon Satin (photo is attached in this post). This is my first fountain pen. I've had this since 2007. Not so long ago, uncapped for a second, it rolled off my desk and broke! The cap and nib are okay. The feed is intact. But the nib's section is badly damaged where the threading has disappeared. The threading is left inside the barrel! My initial idea for damage control was to apply Mighty Bond. However, this did not work at all. Please let me know if anybody here knows how to fix something like this? Are there any home remedies you can suggest? If not, would you please recommend the best action for this? Thank you! .
  9. Shane b

    Sheaffer Repair

    So about three months ago I found a old fountain pen and found I liked it so I went on ebay and bought all the lots I saw then googled pen sacs and bought 5 of every repair part so now I've got a bunch of pens that I've figured out how to fix but don't know the names of except these ones as I hvve not been able to figure out how to put the little o rings in them the package says plunger filler so I assume that's what there called
  10. Zettachrome

    Hidesouly Crossed Tines

    This question concerns a feather quill, rather than a fountian pen, but I'm pretty sure the concept regarding the tines is similar enough. Sometime today it would seem that the tines on my nib have become crossed. I've never had this happen before and I'm not exactly sure how I can repair it. Simple finger pressure won't work. Any ideas? Cheers!
  11. Hi all, I have recently acquired what I believe to be a Conway Stewart Student plunger fill fountain pen with chrome plated nib bearing the marking 'Smoothline medium USA'. The body, screw on cap, and section are made of plastic, and the clip bears the marking 'Conway Stewart UK'. There is a small clear piece of viewing window visible when capped, and this becomes about twice the size when un-capped making the ink level easy to determine. Although the pen writes well, it is however showing its age... (approx. 43 years )... ...the nib has a couple of minor spots of corrosion, the barrel and cap have some nasty scratches, and the clip is slightly corroded under the endcap. Unfortunately, the section is cracked pretty much along the seam lines on both sides running for about 1cm from the nib end towards the viewing window. The cracks in the section mean inky fingers every time it is used - which is clearly far from ideal !! Can anything be done to effect a decent repair? [i'll post some pictures when I get a moment - hopefully the cracks will be visible so you can see what I mean]. Cheers, E.
  12. I recently brought the clock back to life in my Murex Quartz. Fundamental problem was missing battery contacts, which I replaced with improvised parts. The LCD looks a bit suspicious, but it is working for now. LCD artifacts are mostly hidden under the face frame. Currently monitoring to see if it lasts. First step it to remove the clock unit from the cap. - This assumes that the inside of the cap is clean. - There are no retainers to remove - Unscrew the battery cover and remove the battery. - Stand the cap on end on a firm surface, battery end up. - With the eraser on a standard wooden pencil, push down on the floor of the battery compartment. - Once it starts moving, it slides right out of the opposite end. - As you will see the fairly robust plastic carrier takes the physical loads Step-by-step photos are at murex quartz clock unit The picture titles plus the labels I added on some of the pictures should explain it pretty well. If you are not familiar with pbase: just click on any image then use next and previous buttons. To return to the gallery level, click the gallery name at the top of the page. Select image size at bottom center. "Large" will probably work best. Most of the corrosion looks like simple surface verdigris rather than from acid - as from a leaking battery. A battery leak may have contributed to the missing battery contact, but the missing case contact, protected by the carrier is a mystery. Note: to press the unit back into the cap, you will need something narrower than the pencil, in order to fit it inside the open cylindrical end of the plastic carrier.
  13. white_lotus

    Eversharp Barrel Crack

    I have this Eversharp I think from the 50s. It has a barrel thread crack. It looks like a pretty new crack in that it fits together perfectly, no shrinkage. Chances are I did this trying to remove the section, yes I did use heat, maybe not enough. Or I dropped the barrel on the floor. So I've done the searching and reading about barrel cracks and crack repair, the dangers of MEK and acetone, etc etc. Until I'm sick of reading about crack repair. But being a fresh new crack I assume it might be easier to fix right now than wait. I've read about the use of Testors 3502 as a crack repair item, and that's probably as far as I'm willing to try. Is this workable for this kind of plastic? Or should I just send the pen out? It does't seem like that valuable of a pen, I got it basically for free in an ebay lot I got for $10.99 that had an Estie I wanted. Also any idea what the white waxy-like substance is on the pen? It's around the clip, and in spots on the cap, even on some of the barrel threads. A little bit on the barrel. The white line on the section is a cat hair… The crack only looks displaced when the section is inserted. When the section isn't in place the crack is invisible.
  14. Yippee! I was so happy to receive my first Sheaffer snorkel pen yesterday. I twisted the end piece and out came the tube. What a thrill! It would not fill with water on rinse out. Bubbles came out around the nib base where it connects to the section, but not from the snorkel tube. So I gently disassembled it partly by unscrewing the section and then the rear silver colored plunger thing slipped out of the barrel. But when I tried to retract the snorkel..., opps, it would only go back part way into the barrel. See photo. The snorkel sticks out past the nib and will not go in any further. I tried reassembly several times to see if I had missed catching a flange or other simple fitting-together error with no success. I wonder what I did to the mechanism to cause this. First off, who should I contact to repair this problem? This repair is beyond what I am prepared to tackle (yet). Please recommend (offer) the name of someone who could take on this project. (Obviously I would prefer someone who is reliable and fair priced rather than the opposite, right? But that goes without saying, or does it?) Second, I would like to be able to identify this particular model if possible. The clip is imprinted withe Sheaffer's, the barrell has the Sheaffer imprint with Made in USA. It is burgundy colored if you cannot tell from the photo. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice. Rob
  15. I happened across this late model Parker 61 and ended up paying $32 for it. It was in great condition cosmetically, but upon filling it, I found that it leaked ink everywhere. The ink was pouring out of the bottom of the spring-bar converter, even though it seemed like it was seated fine. But let me back up for a second: for those unfamiliar (myself included), the 61 mark 3 was released in 1969 without the infamous capillary filler. Instead, it shipped with a system which was cartridge / converter, like the 45. So this pen is actually all original, and was made in England sometime between 1969 and 1983(!). Richard's Pens and the Parker Pens Penography have more information. Getting the pen apart was difficult but not overly so. I soaked the thing in water for four or five hours, and kept trying carefully to loosen it. The only sticky wicket was getting the feed / nib unit out of the hood section. I just kept trying to unscrew it gently and finally it came out. The inside of the hood was a mess, so I spent some time cleaning. In any case, the long and the short of it is that the connector was cracked. Apparently, Parker replaced the connector (which had been metal in the mk1 & mk2) with plastic, and it's known to crack. And so, without further delay, here's the offending part: http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_02.jpg This is where it fits in: http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_03.jpg And this is the full disassembly: http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_01.jpg I wasn't really sure what to do with this pen, now that I'd found the problem. So, To The Web, Batman! After a lot of Googling, I turned up a place called "Custom Pen Parts" in England. To my absolute delight and surprise, they make a replacement for this IN BRASS! And, it was $12! The folks who run the place are incredibly helpful, and "Roger" dispatched the part right away. As soon as it arrived, I rebuilt the pen. The new connector was a perfect fit. http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_04.jpg http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_05.jpg http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_06.jpg (gotta watch out to get that trim ring put back the right way) http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_07.jpg http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_08.jpg http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_09.jpg http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_10.jpg It's really quite good looking. I filled it up with Iroshizuku Tsuki-yo because it's almost an exact match. Unfortunately (and as Richard Binder mentions in his Parker 61 write-up linked above), the pen is quite fine and writes dry. It's not horrible, but definitely not to my taste. I wouldn't call it scratchy... it's still a decent pen, but I'll probably have it tuned (yes I wrote the wrong ink color here). http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_12.jpg http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_11.jpg Just for reference, here's the mk3 compared to the mk2. The differences are nominal, save the filling system. You can see the hoods are a bit different, and apparently the cap is different on the inside, but it's nothing I can really tell. http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_13.jpg http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_14.jpg http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_15.jpg http://www.suramar.org/fpn/parker61-mk3_16.jpg In any case, I guess my summary is, yay for Custom Pen Parts! But also, I personally am quite a fan of the Parker 61. I understand people's complaints about the capillary system... but I'm not as bothered by it as others are. I think it changes the way you use a pen, and I certainly wouldn't want all my pens to work that way, but it's not a deal breaker for me. Parker 61s can be had for a song and a dance. They seem to be more popular in England then they are elsewhere, so I've had good luck finding replacement parts too. I personally think the 61 is an undervalued pen.
  16. Elperraco

    Sheaffer Snorkel Admiral Doubts

    Hi everyone, I have a beatiful black sheaffer snorkel admiral that I havent treated as well as it deserve. The other day I soaked it in wate during to much time, trying to deep clean it. And as consequence some rust have appear into the spring, inside the body, inside the touchdonwn plunger tube and at the head of the screw that secures the piston knob. Right now I have the pen completely dissasemble. I want to do this. - Cleaning of rust the barrel and the plunger tube. What can I use to clean it? Some kind of brush? - I pretend to sand with very fine grade the head of the screw. Should I do it? - During the dissasemble I have make to appear a small crack on the knob. Can I buy a new one? - I would like to deep clean the nib and the feed. Its possible to dissasemble it from the grip section? How? - I found the pen to wet and maybe not as smooth as it should be. I have feathering with almost any ink. I would like to make a bit drier. It's possible? Than you everyone for your answers and sorry for my english.
  17. dali3464

    Repairers Of Australia, Unite!

    Fountain pens aren't a particularly common sight in Australia, so it's fair to say that we aren't blessed with the number of talented repairers/restorers as in the US. In fact, I can think of only one operating commercial pen restorer, and that's the Old Post Office pens in Melbourne, which has a sterling reputation from what I've gathered. But I'm keen to know if there are any other Australians who've ventured into repairs or restorations to maintain their personal collection or just for the edification of restoring a pen that has been long out-of-service? I've been accumulating a steady collection of Parker 51s vacs (the folks over at the Parker subforum are diabolical enablers). With my love of high saturation inks and knowing the susceptibility of sacs failing due to these inks, I thought it incumbent on myself to learn how to restore them. So now I've accumulated all requisite tools, including a rotary tool to drill that bloody pellet out of the pocket. I have to say the worst item to source in Australia was pure talc powder. I thought about perhaps using graphite powder as restorers have recommended, but I found it quite a mess with my not-too-graceful touch. I eventually opted to ship a supply of talc from the US to tide me over for a decade or two! I think the next tool down the line to purchase is perhaps a clutch extractor from Mr. Oldfield! Edit: Actually I would welcome any thoughts of other would-be restorers from parts of the globe where repairers/restorers aren't in plentiful supply. I, for one, greatly appreciate this repair forum as a resource and I often find myself sitting at the (virtual) feet of Ron Zorn, meditating upon his insights, such as his transformation of a lowly, prosaic salad spinner into a vacumatic flushing device!
  18. Dillonjamesbrown

    Mont Blanc Nib Alignment Issue

    I have a Mont Blanc 159, from the early 90's and the nib is ever so slightly misaligned which is leading so some feed issues. It's unlikely that it will require a new nib or anything, can anybody suggest a ball park figure for the cost of a service? Any help on the matter would be greatly appreciated
  19. Lanep

    Reform Pen Leaking

    Hi everyone, About a week ago I found an abandoned fountain pen in my drawer. I decided I'll try and make it work, since it always had a problem which I could never fix. The problem is that the ink seems to be leaking, but I don't know where from. I tried cleaning it, I soaked it the entire day in lukewarm water to clean its system from ink, then I filled a cartridge with water to test if it leaks. The water obviously has different characteristics than ink, so it seemed not to leak then (or I didn't notice it, since it's water). After that I put a usual ink cartridge in it to see if it still leaks. Well, it leaked. I took some photos of it so you can see how it leaks, if it's any use. I can't find the source of the leakage, it's not where the cartridge is, so it must be somewhere near the nib. Is there a possibility it cracked somewhere? When I leave it standing with its cap on, and when I open it the second day, it's mysteriously covered in ink like in the photo. It writes normally (not too thick), but a bit light because of the water experiment. Can I fix this anyhow? Thank you Here are the photos: http://s9.postimg.org/o4dkh6l6z/IMG_3118.jpg http://s9.postimg.org/ftrr9cpmz/IMG_3121.jpg http://s9.postimg.org/4nsuunq2z/IMG_3122.jpg http://s9.postimg.org/e1u70pgwb/IMG_3123.jpg http://s9.postimg.org/sstkcdadn/IMG_3124.jpg
  20. Hi all, Wondering if someone can help out with a PFM II issue. I'm Not experienced in repair but eager to get this sorted. Got what looks to be a leak that's caused the plastic inner cap to degrade, unusual as I've only been using diamine inks but anyways. After washing the cap out thoroughly there seems to be no end of brown crud emanating from the spring loaded clip. Got a feeling its from a rusting spring thats up there. On to the question; is it possible to remove and replace the inner cap (on a PFM II) so I can find out what's going on? Many thanks for your help in advance, Badger
  21. tallman

    Vintage Onoto Delarue - Repair?

    Hello to All, I am new to this forum. I have one of my vintage onoto delarue pen that has the plunger at the back that opens only about 8mm...it feels stuck....this is the self filling type. Now the pen is very old, should be around 1920's......I suspect that old dried ink is inside. What can be done so that I can repair it? I can fell it is hitting something. (1) Can I throw some surgical spirit or alcohol inside so maybe it will dissolve the ink? will this cause damage? (2) How does this pen open up? I really dont want to induce any damage or marks...the pen is in very good condition, still has the box with the original papers, no wear on the body...etc.... Here are some picture.... Any help and ideas appreciated. Thanks. Dam.
  22. Would anyone know if there is a place in Hong Kong where fountain pens can be taken for repairs and/or nib grinding in Hong Kong?
  23. caric

    400 Nib Bent

    I have a Pelikan 400 tortoise from the early 1950s. I posted a review here Now that I have a bit more experience looking at nibs under magnification, I've discovered the tines on this extra fine nib were out of alignment and the entire tip of the nib itself is crooked and a bit twisted. I was able to align the tines but the nib is still twisted. Fixing only the alignment leaves the nib very scratchy. Ink flow is very good and I think just as it should be for an EF and even keeps up when I add pressure to my writing to get line variation.It's so scratchy though that I want to get someone to fix it for me. Not sure what my options are; any recommendations?
  24. I put the V in question marks because I am not sure if I am just seeing things. I looked at the butt of the pen with my loupe and in between the number 512 and the letters PSF appears to be a big "V". Is this where the V would be if this were a 512V? Hope it isn't just an odd scratch. I am in need of an original cap clip for this pen and I also need to find out the best place to take/send the cap to have the new cap put in place and also have the cap opening made round again. It is just slightly out of round. Not enough to completely disrupt screwing it in. My issue is purely cosmetic on that one. Any leeds of where to go for this?
  25. Ok I replaced the sacs on the Waterman 512 1/2 PSF, 452, and Lady Patricia. I tested them with Noodler's Black Eel, a lubricated ink. I am admittedly new to flex nibs which all three have. So, I could just be naive. I don't know if I didn't wipe the nibs down enough after(wrap paper towel around the nib and let ink flow for a couple seconds or so) or what but when I started writing all three nibs ended up having a severe case of nib creep from the breather hole. I thought where was a leak in the sacs the sacs were fine and I would think if it were a leak ink would come out around the section and lever area. I did eventually wrap a paper towel around the nibs for about 5 seconds and I didn't seem to have the problem again. Was the feed just oversaturated right after inking or might there be other potential issues? I didn't have this happen when I used them for dip tests which leads me to wonder if it was an oversaturated feed.





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