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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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Hello Everybody! i would be very thankful if you would advise. i have 3 snorkels: Snorkel Sentinel Black, Snorkel Admiral Pastel Green, Snorkel Admiral Burgundy. These need to be restored, but i am not sure what exactly the restoration with include. I am only sure that the inside mechanism needs to be fixed as the filling mechanism works but doesnt fill. The pen body will need to be polished. I am not sure whether it is a good idea, and how much the restoration could cost? probably it would be easier to sell the unrestored ones and buy already restored? Plus i am not 100% sure i will leave these in my collection. Would be thankful for any of your advices!
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So, I have seen images of disassembled 149s which show the section unscrewed from the barrel at the point between the threads and the ink window. I have also seen many people wondering whether or not they will lose the ebonite feeds on their 149s if they send their pens to Montblanc for service. The reply to this is usually that they will indeed lose the ebonite feed, as the current feeder cases are incompatible with the old feeds. This has led me to wonder whether or not an old section can be placed onto a modern barrel, thus being able to retain the old feed. As an aside, how do modern Montblanc plastic feeds compare to the old ebonite feeds?
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I'm not sure if this should go in the Parker forum or the repair forum, but it's here now. My friend gave me a bunch of fountain pens that she found after her father passed away. She says none of them are worth a lot, because he wouldn't have had much money to spend on pens. Some look like Frankenpens, and some have been tinkered with. One of these is a Cedar Blue Parker 51 Vacumatic. The barrel, shell and blind cap are in good condition. The cap has no clip. The shell screws off easily, no heat or anything, and I've managed to clean the nib and feed in the ultrasonic with no problems. The feed has no colour tint to it at all. So the pen wasn't used much. The main problem is with the other end. He's obviously tried to unscrew the pump at some point. The threads are a bit 'mangled'. I've also seen pumps, and the threads should be black. These ones are aluminium coloured. I got out my Pen Repair book and see that you need a special tool to unscrew this pump, and I don't have one. Even if the pump came out, I also don't have a 'pellet pusher' or a sac. So I have worked out that in order to get this pen working again, at the bare minimum, I need a special pump removal tool or C Clip to unscrew the pump, then I need a 'pellet pusher' plus a 51 size vacumatic sac. I forgot to mention that the first thing that happened when I removed the blind cap was that the plunger fell out, so I don't know if that means I need a new pump, or whether this one can be repaired. I suppose that I might know more about that if I got it out. I have read that putting a new pump in can sometimes mean the blind cap will no longer fit properly, so I'm not sure about buying a new pump. So I've searched for these parts and I've priced up repairs. I have included the price of clip, as well as a new pump, just in case. Here's the thing: I can buy a restored Parker 51 Vacumatic on ebay for about the same as the cost of having this one repaired, or buying the parts to repair it myself. I can't imagine that I will ever need to repair another 51 Vacumatic, so buying the tools may not be the best way forward. Besides anything else, I have emailed Laurence Oldfield and asked him a price for the items I need, and haven't received any reply. So what would you do?
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Dear all, I've got a small problem with my Pilot VP; the clip has developed several degrees of side to side play? I don't actually use the clip to, well, clip the pen to anything so I'm not too worried about that aspect of it, but because of the design of the pen you end up holding the clip and it's a little disconcerting if it wiggles whilst writing! Edit - I should add, I've had the pen for approximately 8 months from new Here's some pictures to illustrate the problem; one to the left... http://i.imgur.com/xbWeowj.jpg?1 ... and one to the right! http://i.imgur.com/pmzJ2Fq.jpg?2 The pen has never been abused or manhandled, so it's annoying that this has happened. There appears to be either a hairline crack or a moulding fault in the plastic (?) tip of the pen which may have something to do with the situation. I've dropped Pilot UK an email directly via their contact form, with no reply as of yet, and the retailer only suggested to get in touch with them directly as they don't handle repairs. So, (hopefully!) pending a reply from Pilot, I'd love to know if anyone has any suggestions as to how to tighten the clips a little, or at least stop the problem from getting any worse? I've taken the pen out of my rotation for the time being but would love to have it back in action soon. Also, if anyone has any experience of dealing with Pilot UK for repairs, I'd love to hear! Thanks in advance for your help, Alex
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I own a beautiful Pilot/ Namiki "Capless" Vanishing Point pen- it's a Decimo, which is slightly slimmer and lighter than the regular VP pens, but takes the same nib- and I LOVE it. I have heard that the nibs for these pens are not well standardized. A few weeks after getting my pen, I broke the nib and had to replace it (rather a costly accident, but nevertheless). The nib size of my pen was, and is, a Fine; but I notice the new nib does not write quite as fine a 'Fine' line as the previous, original nib did. I liked the thinner line (didn't want to go to "Extra Fine", because I thought an EF nib might be too delicate- requires a light hand,) Is there a way I can have the nib adjusted? Would it cost as much, or nearly, as buying a whole new nib again? Any thoughts? thanks! - M
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Hi Everybody! I know this is FPN - About 10+ years ago I bought a Tiffany & Co Atlas pencil that appeared to be a rebranded of sort pencil that was from the Pelikan 800 series. I only used it a couple times and it only contained one lead. I opened add lead and could not put it back together. Well, short story long - Pelikan will not touch it and directed me to Tiffany & Co. Tiffany advised it was beyond repair but cannot provide a reason. My hands just do not work well anymore and I do not want play with it and risk breaking it. I am hoping some one on this board could recommend someone who can put it back together. I do not believe it is broken but rather I just do not know how to reassemble it. I believe it identical to a Pelikan K800 as the fountain pen is identical an M800 just different markings. I think this is a simple job for someone with a clue as to correctly put back together. As I stated I am just am not good with my hands anymore as I can barely write anymore and mechanically challenged. The only I kept my pen collection is it reminds me of a better time. Can someone point to a capable repairer for what be an easy job. I can easily be reached at Pelikanman@aol.com for additional details if the need should arrise Best, Thomas Quinn
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There's a nice Moore 72 on ebay, a pretty nib. I collect the sturdy little ringtops, but it looks like the ringtop was pulled off sometime in the dim past, leaving a shallow divot behind. It could be a bargain or a world of hurt. My strategy is to buy a gutted Wahl ringtop (which has a nice ring mechanism - nicer than Waterman's) for cheap, and ask one of my expanding series of pen repairers to try to marry the pieces together. I'll do a lot for a good nib, but is this an idiotic idea? Please advise.
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My Sailor mini (daffodil) is one of my favorite pens, but I have damaged the tins on the nib. I write to John's office at Nibs.com, but missed his deadline before he left for his summer vacation. Can someone recommend other folks who do great work on Sailor's? I miss using it! Thanks
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I recently bought a Waterman Taperite Citation with the intention of repairing it, chortling to myself at the bargain I'd found. Of course, the vendor knew better! The little wretch may have all its parts and nice bright trim but it turns out the insides are glued together by a combination of - er - glue, shellac and thick black ink. Of course, this wasn't obvious at first because I couldn't get the damn thing open. It has taken weeks of patient soaking, gentle heating and manipulation and I finally cracked it (not literally, thank God) yesterday. How did he get so messy? I know now that Taperite's are especially hard to wheedle apart - a factoid that would have been more useful to me before I bought it - but I offer this as hope to all those who similarly toil. Yes! It can be done! Mr. Waterman is now in his component pieces, drying after a bath, awaiting reconstructive surgery. He should be a handsome beast when I'm finished but I'm not in any hurry to try that again! Any tips and tricks would be welcome.
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Dear people of the Waterman forum. I am a sometime contributor to FPN and an avid reader but I am unfamiliar with Waterman pens. A colleague knowing my interest in fountain pens has asked me if I can fix his Waterman which has a broken off clip. I am hoping some of you can help me identify the pen and give me some idea of whether I will be able to source a new clip or cap. Thanks Rick
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I recently obtained a nice blue Sheaffer Levenger Seas pen (medium nib) as part of an eBay "bundle" that included a (1) Parker ink bottle, (2) a wooden desk holder that has room for three pens & one bottle, (3) Waterman Phileas, (4) the referenced Seas pen and (5) a no-name fountain pen as well. All for a grand total of $100. So, the price was excellent but after a thorough cleaning I discovered a serious problem with the Sheaffer pen. When I cap the the Sheaffer barrel without the nib & section, the barrel neatly screws in to the cap unit as it should. No problem. However, when I add the nib and section to the barrel, the grooves on the Sheaffer barrel do not line up to the cap, and can't screw in. Using a ruler, I determined that the barrel sticks out 1/16 of an inch longer when the nib and section are present. My preliminary conclusion is that the inner cap must be causing some blockage that is interacting with the lip at the end of the section unit. So was wondering if anyone else on FPN has experienced a similar problem with a Seas pen (or the Sheaffer Connoisseur model which is very similar) and welcome any suggestions about how I might resolve this challenge. Many thanks. And, even if it turns out this issue is not easily resolved, the other parts of this eBay bundle are a big thumbs up. So, I won't be totally "lost at sea." Sorry, couldn't resist the pun. Bennett
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Mabie Todd : Sos... Save The Bird!
Wet-Noodle posted a topic in Mabie Todd Research/Special Interest Forum/Group
I've seen something this morning that puts me in a campaigning mood. One butcher by the name of Womble1962 is apparently stripping gold nibs from fountain pens, (and doubtless anything else he/ she can get at) and selling the remains " for parts or repair" I think that this heathen, heid banging philistine, who sells the purist dross, should be bombarded with messages. See: http://www.ebay.fr/sch/m.html?item=351349542960&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%253A80%252Frover%252F0%252Fe11010.m2368.l3160%252F7%253Feuid%253D71a9939dc1a243c59475241194a55afa%2526loc%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.fr%25252Fitm%25252F351349542960%25253F_trksid%25253Dp11010.c100136.m2769%252526_trkparms%25253Daid%2525253D555012%25252526algo%2525253DPW.MBE%25252526ao%2525253D1%25252526asc%2525253D20140212115136%25252526meid%2525253Da76ed1d692014051a70e0f36a9aa1b2b%25252526pid%2525253D100136%25252526rk%2525253D1%25252526rkt%2525253D12%25252526sd%2525253D301561760653%25252F%25253FssPageName%25253DADME%25253AB%25253AWNA%25253AFR%25253A3160%2526srcrot%253De11010.m2368.l3160&_ssn=womble1962&rt=nc What about a "save Mabie Todd" thread that would willingly accept other maker's fans? I think I'll start a thread right now and send this heathen a link. -
Is it possible to remove and replace the brass threads and spring/plunger mechanism from vintage Jotters?
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I just got into fountain pens at the beginning of this year. Prior to that, I was trying to do calligraphy, but found the dip pens to be a bit of a pain. I am now trying to repair/restore a few pens. I'm currently looking for a feed for a Waterman Stalwart. Any pointers would be welcome! I've been lurking a few places (mostly here and Reddit). I figured I should actually join the community. There's so much good information here! Unfortunately, I've found I don't even know what questions I should be asking. For example, if I had done more research, I would have known not all Waterman 14kt nibs are flexible. I bought the Waterman because I REALLY wanted a vintage flex. Turns out it comes with a 2A nib, which I guess isn't exactly what I was looking for. I'm looking forward to spending even more time and money on this great hobby/obsession!
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Hello everyone, some months ago I received a parker 45 from a kindly member, and have a problem with one.. I decided to test it and found a deluxe converter to fit it, then filled it with usual BB ink but.. writing : it only puts down a very very fine line + I have to exerce a lot of pressure to see the ink properly. It was already cleaned before, does it means I have to use ammonia, or that the feed is damaged ? I've done nothing special with it and the member approved that he sent it nearly mint/carefully, the problem is not here so I have no ideas.. Your thoughts ? Thank you. (pictures of nib/etc below) EDIT : Actually works, but at a very uncomfortable angle for me.. (lefty over-writer) 2 solutions : - your method to increase the flow - type of nib not for me http://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2015/11/1426343103-1-v2.jpg http://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2015/11/1426343191-2-v2.jpg http://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2015/11/1426343197-3-v2.jpg
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Nibmeister Tim Girdler At Bertram's Inkwell On March 28Th
Tasmith posted a topic in Clubs, Meetings and Events
Nibmeister Tim Girdler will be at Bertams Inkwell, Saturday, March 28th, 2015. https://www.bertramsinkwell.com/home.php -
Hi All, I have a problem with a beautiful Parker Duofold Deluxe that I picked up a few weeks ago. The problem is the cap will not screw on when I put the nib section on the pen. I tried removing the derby because I thought perhaps the nib was placed too high but that did not work either, still will not close. When I remove the section it closes fine (see photo) only when I have the section on the pen is when I experience the problem. It almost seems as though the section is being blocked from moving up the cap thus not allowing a complete connection to the threads. I did use an ultrasonic cleaner but I checked the threads through a loop and they all seem to be okay. Any suggestions beyond sending this off for repair? Thank you in advance! Joe
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I recently acquired a 1950s vintage Aurora 88. The pen is in good shape overall and I would like to press it into service. However, the piston turning knob is incredibly stiff. So stiff that I thought it was jammed. With increasing pressure, I was able to move it, but stopped. I'm afraid of stressing the piston rod or stripping threads, etc... If it was a modern pen, I would think to apply silicone grease. Is that appropriate for this pen? If so, how do you get the grease to where it needs to be? Thanks in advance for your help!
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Hey guys I have an oversized crest triumph and I was wondering, for future reference replacing the sac, how is the section affixed?
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Didn’t know if this should be in the MB section or the repair section…. I want to cry. I decided to replace the cork on a wartime 333 ½. I setup my heat gun and tools and got to work. It came apart very smoothly and very clean. It took much less heat than I thought. (The heat gun was set to 145f and the thermometer read about 120f on the surface when the section pliers moved). Everything went great. I disassembled the entire pen except for the nib and feed. Removed the piston and old cork and cleaned everything. I was ready to silicone and put it back together. I took one last swipe with the Q-Tips and paper towel. As I wiped the top of the threads on the body, a piece chipped off. I couldn’t believe it. I knew the risks but everything went perfect up until that point. My question for the experts, Is this something that could be repaired/rebuilt? Or am I S.O.L. and only hope is to find a donor 333 ½ or maybe a 334 ½ parts pen? (Anyone happen to have a body?) Thank you for any help. I will now return to my beer and start my cry.
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Hi. I got this nice Webster pen of an auction for $15 at the swedish ebay (Tradera). It have a dried up ink sac that need to be replaced, how do i remove the section in the best way. I found a similar pen on the internet and on that pen it seems like the section is removed just beneath the threads, is that correct? It has a nice 14k warranted #2 nib with som nice flex, but the tines are a little misaligned where the left tine is a little higher than the right. I think it works fine to write with but it would be nice to fix that too. And does anyone knows where i can find a new ring to the top of the cap? Best regard Pether
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Have any of you done a restore on this pen? Any tips? Mine isn't here yet so I am researching ahead of time. I finally was able to obtain one for a decent price.
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Heeeeeelp ..... Chipped Lacquer On Waterman Serenite Fountain Pen Blue Lacquer & Silver
HMA Kieran posted a topic in Waterman
I'm really keepings all fingers crossed that someone here can help me and I apologise if I have posted this in the wrong forum but I've spent a lot of time searching FPN and I haven't been able to find an answer yet .... I bought a fabulous Waterman Serenite Fountain Pen Blue Lacquer & Silver fountain pen several years ago for a very good price because the previous owner had damaged the clear lacquer on the main body by carrying it in a metal pen-holder so there are two small patches opposite sides of the barrel where the clear lacquer has worn or was scratched away. I looked at it under a 20 x lens and the blue lacquer seems fine but the edges where the clear lacquer was chipped away seem to be flaking a tiny bit so I'm wondering if there is any thing I can use to repair or seal the clear lacquer so that the damage doesn't spread ? I apologise for not posting photos of the pen and the damage but I haven't got a good camera and it's too late tonight so I'll try to take some tomorrow. Nail varnish ? Humbrol clear varnish ? Artists' varnish ? Other clear model varnishes ? Automotive scratch repair stuff ? Scratch remover for plastics or acrylic windows ? Automotive clear scratch repair stuff (It's seems like a clear varnish in a pen type dispenser) Any help would be gratefully appreciated ! -
Hello, I'm restoring a standard-sized Skyline (silver moire color) and need a black derby to complete the cap. Does anybody have one to sell me? (To be clear: I don't need the whole cap, just the mushroom-shaped plastic derby portion of the cap. It needs to be black.) Thanks! Richard
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(The thread on ultrasonic cleaners has morphed into a thread on pressing nibs into the section. I thought I'd start a new thread for the discussion.) What's the preferred method for returning a nib/feed to its section after cleaning or nib work? I've generally used a folded cloth to help my fingers grasp the nib/feed and then to press it manually into the section. I often use a little sheet of rubber to help hold on to the section. My technique feels like there must be a better way. I'm afraid of using pliers to hold the nib because I fear they might damage the comb of the feed or scratch the nib. On the other hand, I can't fully see what's happening when i use the folded cloth to protect the nib/feed. Often I feel like I could push the nib a bit further into the section if I had a better method or used a dedicated tool, because I can't get enough grip or channel enough force to the nib/feed. In some few instances, I've needed to slightly sand down the girth of the feed so that I can return the nib to its proper depth. I'd prefer not to sand, if there were a better way. So: 1. What's the preferred method? 2. What tools should be used? 3. Where are these tools available? Thanks, Richard
