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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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Hi there, I have been working on restoring my Lady Sheaffer 904 Medium nib Paisley pen. I have been more successful than I thought I would but now I am stuck again. So I thought I would turn for help to you all! The pen was not in use for over twenty years. I flushed it out with water thoroughly. It has a squeeze converter that seems to work. The rubber sac does not seem damaged, no leaks, perhaps it holds just a hair less ink than it did before because the rubber is softer and exerts less pressure to suck the ink in. But still, it holds enough for me to be able to write for hours. I have pumped with with light colored water and know it fills enough based on what I can retrieve when I squeeze it back out. But when I filled it with ink, it wouldn't write. So I thought, there must some ink flow issues in the feed, etc?. I tried inserting a Mont Blanc Emerald Green cartridge, and voilà it started writing beautifully. I now have a pen that writes beautifully, again, but remains dependent on cartridges. I'd much rather restore the converter or get a new old converter. The standard Sheaffer piston converter does not fit in this pen (too long). Is there another converter I don't know about? Is there a way to restore my original converter? Peyton Street Pens say that the piston converter should work on numbered pens, but it didn't fit mine: "You'll find Lady Sheaffer pens in two different configurations -- the ones with clips that have the inset semi-hooded "fingernail" nib, and clip-less models with short conical Triumph nibs. The first style has numbered models (we carry the Lady Sheaffer 904) and the second style has models denominated in Roman numerals (we usually have X and XI in stock). You'll find these pens in a wide variety of finishes, both in metal and enamel. You'll want to pay close attention to the converter style required ... the numbered models will all take either the squeeze converter or the modern piston converter, but the Roman numeral models vary and sometimes they cannot accommodate any converter, period." Thanks so much for reading!
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Pen: Noodler's Konrad Appalachian Pearl Flex Pen Ink: J. Herbin Rouge Opera I bought this pen from Goulet Pens via 65daigou (mail forwarder) and it came in a crushed box. While using it, I encountered endless problems; the pen perpetually railroaded, no matter how slowly I wrote and in which orientation. It railroaded at the slightest amount of encouragement! I have flushed this pen before and it only barely improved the situation. ' Upon taking a closer look, I noticed the tines and nib shape were weird-looking... for those of you who also own Konrad Flexes, is this a normal thing or do I have to get this pen replaced/fixed? some photos....
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Hi, I was wondering if anyone in the community knows a way to service a Stipula Etruria Rainbow. any guidance and instructions are greatly appreciated!. thank you greatly Jack
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Probably many folks here will have seen this sort of thing and I have read about it but not discovered it myself until now. While repairing a large Sheaffer Balance I found the inner cap to be striated carmine and while repairing a black Sheaffer Saratoga I found a striated green vac-fil plug. Fun to find odds and ends from other stock used to make parts. The retaining nut had come off inside the barrel insert of the Saratoga and oddly enough I just repaired another Sheaffer which had the same thing occur.
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Hello all, I'm relatively new to fountain pens and have been browsing the forums for some time. I recently acquired a Visconti Homo Sapiens Crystals which at first look appeared in perfect condition. However, when looking closer, it appears as though one of the tines is slightly bent. The pen seems to have no problem writing smoothly, but if there is indeed a defect with the nib, I would prefer to have it fixed (especially while still under warranty), rather than let it go. Could anyone chime in to let me know whether it appears as though the nib needs work, or if this is just me being paranoid? Thank you all for your help, - Andrew
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Hi, I am beginning work on a recently-acquired Penol Ambassador Senior 1246 (December 1946) button filler. I suspect the insides are a dried-up mess, since the button is practically immovable... I'm posting to ask if anyone here knows whether the section is friction fit or if it's threaded. Thanks in advance. -geoff martin
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I just got two pens back from The Ink-Pen, and one of them was my red-ripple Waterman ringtop. They re-sac'ed it and gave it a lovely polish that made it look like new. They also did a swell job with my Edward Todd silver ringtop, but that's for another forum.
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I have a Chilton, of unspecified vintage, with brass fittings and lovely green enamel (stone?) inlay around the cap. I am assured by its' previous owner that it once upon a time drew ink, but it no longer does, despite my inventive cussing about such things. Because I am uncomfortable attempting disassembly and repair myself, where should I go for trusted repair service? Perhaps I've insufficiently googled, but I'm not turning much up by way of resources for either age determination or someone who specializes in this type of repair. I appreciate the guidance.
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I recently picked up a Waterman Ink-Vue deluxe at an estate sale. It's in great shape with a keyhole nib but the sac needs to be replaced. From what I've found on Richard Binder's site, it's a type 1. I'm not confident enough to tackle this repair myself. I'm hoping somebody might be able to recommend someone who can. Thanks in advance for your help.
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So, this is my first fountain pen. I've been skimming through the threads on restoration, particularly the disassembly "how not to" threads. I don't want to make donor parts out of my first attempt. I am currently on day five or six attempting to part the section from the barrel so that I can see what's inside. I have been using the hair dryer method, but haven't had so much as a budge. I am very hesitant to apply too much torque. Judging by the grain in the body I can see ample opportunity for some sort of splitting. I am concerned that someone may have used shellac or <gasp!> glue, although I don't see any drips or residue. Here are a couple more photos. Any comments or advice?
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Hi. I got this National Controllor button filler pen of an auction, but the filler leaks a little around the button. Does anyone know how to fix this? It is a really nice pen with a nice flexy degussa 14k nib. /Pether
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Hi Everyone, So I have a Pelikan Go! P70 and I've royally fu**ed up. I was cleaning the nib, very gently, and, I guess my gentle wasn't soft enough so while still screwed into the barrel, the nib section broke off. On top of that, there's a crack in the grip and it keeps falling off. Here's a few questions I have. I'm dirt poor and can't afford another one! I had this pen for literally 3 days before it went to sh*t. I pretty much spent my savings on this and I'm pretty sure I got ripped off. I paid upwards of 50 euros for this, plus currency exchange fees from the Canadian Dollar, so, I know, I messed it up. Okay.... Can I repair this pen? It's my only hope to write with a fountain pen. Can I remove the screw in section from the barrel? It's broken in there, screwed in. If I can remove the section stuck in the barrel... how can I reattach it to the nib section? I'm planning on fusing the plastic together to fix the crack and using superglue to make sure that the grip stays sealed (not stuck to the nib section though). Honestly, I'm desperate to repair this pen. I can't afford another one after I got ripped off with this one.
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Hi, i've a question for you all: I'm waiting for this couple of broken waterman bought via ebay: http://i66.tinypic.com/2ise4r5.jpg since the lever box of the brown one - a 515 - seems intact apart for the lever, i'm thinking to use the lever of the black one - a 501 with the strange-shaped nib i ever seen and a crack on the cap - as a replacement. Since i've not yet the pen in my hands, i'm just speculating and i've made this mockup to check if the "sane" lever will fit the 515: http://i65.tinypic.com/281tv8o.jpg What you think? is this a viable modification?
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I found a cheap Everysharp Skyline on ebay and decided to bite. I knew it would take some work, but I'm a DIYer, and it sounded like a fun project. The pen's section contains the nib, feed, and a breather tube. They're all held in very tightly, and there's really no way to pull the unit out. This calls for something called a knockout tube. Basically, this is a metal tube that wraps around the breather tube, but pressed into the back of the feed. Whack this bad boy a few times with a hammer, and out pops the nib/feed/breather combo. Being the n00b I am, I did not have such a device. I did, however, have a silly straw and a socket wrench set. I'll let the pictures explain. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Be careful though! Tom
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Hello, I am applying for help with this strange problem. I've bought via Ebay this Swan and have been able to disassemble, clean and polish it to a quite satisfactory extent. I am currently waiting for a replacement sac. I have noticed however that the thread does not allow to screw the cap to full closure. It looks like the pen is too long for the barrel's thread to fully grip the cap's one. I noticed that if I remove the section from the barrel, I have no problem in screwing the cap firmly in. The issue is not with the nib and feed being too long, because the problem comes up even when the nib and feed are removed. I have wondered whether the section is possibly not the original one. However the name Swan is engraved on the section. Maybe a Swan specialist here could tell me if he knows of Swan having used considerably different section lenghts. I am enclosing some pictures of the pen.
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Hi I'm about to embark on my first (very simple) fountain pen repair, and I've got a very simple question. The pen in question is a Congress bulb filler (cheap to buy, but I rather like it). The bulb has previously been replaced with a sac that appears to be almost new so I'm leaving that bit alone. The section and the barrel are a press or push fit. When I received it, it was leaking through the joint. My simple question is how should I seal it? Shellac, epoxy or something else? I'm not convinced that shellac will seal, and whilst I cannot see any reason to ever want to break the connection, epoxy seems rather irreversible. Your thoughts please Thanks Andrew
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I've recently started repairing a PFM I purchased a while back and I've come across something interesting. The sack was completely ossified and required replacement. Somehow, the snorkel tube had been pushed pretty far inside the sac bushing. There was even a small indention where it seems someone tried to pull it out with some pliers. I noticed when I got the snorkel tube and sac bushing out of the sac protector the end of the snorkel tube looked as if part of the plastic might be broken off??? I'm unsure if the end part is supposed to be round or not. I compared the end to some pictures I've seen online and I'm not sure. Can anyone confirm or deny that the plastic piece on end of the snorkel tube which goes inside the sac looks correct? Notice how plastic seems to only come from half the tube.
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Help Identifying Pen Found In Grandmother's Shed
Alcuin posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
My grandmother sent me this fountain pen after finding it in the bottom of her shed. After looking everywhere, I haven't been able to identify it at all, because she didn't find a cap with it. The only things written on the pen at all are "Warranted Wing-Flow U.S.A" on the nib, and "Made in U.S.A." on the lever. Also, the body of the pen is curved, and I don't know if this is from warping over time, or if it was made this way. Could anyone help me with this? Another problem I've run into is that I cannot seem to get the pen apart to look at the sac (or remove the nib). It doesn't seem that there's any section at all to unscrew. Does anyone know how I could disassemble this pen?
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I recently bought an Oriental 552 1/2 from an antique store but could not get it open to check the interior. After I brought it home and managed to get it open what i can only assume to be the ink sac fell out of the pen in pieces. The bar and lever seem a little sprung but do appear to be working. I can find little to no information as to what size ink sac I should place inside it or even how to go about doing so. I live in Phoenix, AZ and to my knowledge there are no easily accessible pen repair shops nearby. If anyone could provide information on what sac goes inside or anything about the pen it would be greatly appreciated.
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Hey all, Is it possible to repair a clip that has 'brassing' on it? Is it possible to get it plated in gold or anything? And; Can you remove micro-scratches from resin pen barrels and caps? Thanks, Tom.
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Hi! I just purchased a Waterman w3 and a Conway Stewart 75 on Ebay ; the bladders need to be changed, but I don't have the pens yet, and I want to order bladders now so that I might receive everything around the same time. I looked for the dimensions online and did a search on this website, but I couldn't find for sure what size sac I should use. Some recommended sizes 16 or 18 for the w3, and one recommended the 18 for the CS 75. Is the sac size a bit flexible, do you think for example I could order sizes 17 for both pens?
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Hi All- Please forgive the question if it has been answered before-I did a search and didn't come up with much for a '51' Aero pencil repair. I am a relative newbie and had read somewhere that the '51' pencil barrels are not the same (lucite) as the pens. I have a pencil with a crack in the barrel that I would like to stabilize so that it doesn't get any worse. It will be a user pencil for me, so I am not super concerned with cosmetics, but certainly don't want to do any harm, or use the wrong stuff. What should I use to stabilize the crack? I have attached a close-up picture. Thanks in advance for any and all guidance!-
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I own a Parker Urban Fountain Pen which was dropped and suffered from a nib misalignment. The nib was misplaced slightly to the left. Is there a step by step way to do this? I believe it involves heat, but I don't know the proper way to heat the pen without damaging the plastic.
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Good afternoon (here) ladies and gentleman... Okay, so I sprang for this pen on the bay of evilness and I knew it didn't have a clip. To me this isn't a big deal as I'm hoping I will love this pen and use it daily. But, where does one get a clip or can one get a clip for a Waterman 3 and if so, can a complete moron, such as myself do the repair? The pen was cheap as it is (crudely) monogrammed. Any and all help from this illustrious brain trust is much appreciated!!!!!
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I have a woodgrain Waterman Model 52, which I haven't been using a lot but kept in a pen carrier. I notice that the gold clip has recently fallen off, revealing a glob of what looks a lot like epoxy. Any advice on how these were actually put together, and maybe how to put it back? I still have the clip, btw. Thanks, all.
