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  1. senzen

    My first Omas

    I managed to snag a Milord. Here with its cousing, a Minerva 60. The piston worked for a little while, until it didn't; I cleaned it, the section with an ultrasonic cleaner, put some silicone grease on the barrel threads and at the knob... And it seems to be writing beautifully, even if I'm basically filling it as an eyedropper. The nib is particularly smooth, it produces a light Yama Guri which can go dark if pressing on the nib, but I write with a very light hand. I've always laughed at "precious resins" and such like but this one feels particularly nice in hand. The barrel also doesn't seem to go all the way into the cap but there have been no drying out issues in the past couple of days. I have very little time for pens that don't work, but so far this one does and is a joy to use. I can't complain about the piston given the price I paid, even if it wasn't the bargain of the century.
  2. Hello everyone, Years ago I had the opportunity to buy a faulty Montblanc Agatha Christie FP at a bargain price. I feel time has come to fix it. Before sending the pen to MB for a service quote, I'd like to know if I can fix It by myself. Any Way to put the c-ring in Place by myself? Thanks to everyone Who can help!
  3. While trying to fill a Pelikan Go! the piston just turned off right into my hand! It is not my pen, but I have permission to re-glue the piston. Is this safe to do, and if so what type of glue should I use? The pen is plastic. Thanks.
  4. parapadakis

    What type of cork is best for seals?

    Hello, I'm about to make my own cork seals for the first time. In this case it is for a Safety Pen, but there are also a few Onoto plungers in waiting. My question is this: What is the correct/best type of cork to use for seals? Does it make a difference? many thanks George
  5. bsenn

    Webster - Winds Like a Watch

    A thread here mentions a Sears catalog with a Webster pen which has an exclusive filler which "winds like a watch". The last post in the thread seems to have the best resolution of the catalog page. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/349491-sears-wishbooks-1937-96-online/#comment-4268709 I recently picked one up. The cap has a clip similar to Sheaffer military clips. The cap and barrel material reminds me of Parker shadow waves. The nib is a well-made 14k marked Webster Gold Star and the barrel is marked Webster Made in USA. The knob on the end is stamped in two places with arrows indicating direction. Turning in the direction of the arrows (clockwise, these are left-hand threads) reveals threads attached to and turning with the knob. The knob turns until about 1/8" of threads are revealed, then stops hard. I have been working on removing the section with no luck so far. I assume it is some kind of piston filler, but can anyone tell me what I can expect to find once I get the section loose? Brian
  6. Hi! I'm a new member from Sweden and my name is Peter, nice to meet you all! I inherited 3 pens when my father passed earlier this year and i need help with identification of the pens and also want to know if they are any good or if it's just "ordinary" fountain pens. They are all piston filled pens by the way. The 1st one is fully striped and have no text/logo or markings on it whatsoever and is equipped with and Iridium point. The 2nd is one color blue/gray-ish (Can't really determine because of impaired vision) It has the text "Valero" branded on it's body and has a nib with the text "Real 12R" on the point. The 3rd I know just alittle about, it is black and have the text "The Tower" on two places on the pen and a 14K gold nib. As far as i understood this was the name Soenneken (?) gave these pens when selling them to Sweden and some other country. Maybe some of you can fill me in here? Name, model, approximate age and other info would be nice I would appreciate all info you can give me and if someone can help with estimating the value on each pen it would be nice. (No pens are for sale, i plan to start using one or several of them.) //Peter
  7. Karmachanic

    M1000 - Piston weight?

    I've looked online to no avail. Does anyone know the weight of the M1000 piston mechanism? Thank you!
  8. Looking into possibly buying a Santini... was wondering if any of you have greased the piston on it or know how to. Thanks for your help! W. H. Major
  9. Mob Mentality

    Montblanc 149 piston puzzle

    <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/192670838@N04" title=""><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51088053741_90065e7a29_h.jpg" width="1600" height="1200" alt=""></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> Hello all. I recently purchased a Montblanc 149 in red gold. What is strange is the piston threads on this pen. The pen has an 18k nib however the threads don't appear to be brass looks to almost be a whitish metal has Montblanc changed the piston threads recently? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  10. Dear readers, I was hoping you could help identify this pen. Searching for "Swan piston filler" and derivatives thereof have not yielded any helpful information. I'm looking to disassemble and restore this pen, as it is leaky from both ends. Many thanks for any help you can offer. If pictures are of too low a quality, I can provide better ones.
  11. Trinh Nguyen

    SCRIBO FEEL piston disassemble.

    Hello, I don't know if anyone have this problem with SCRIBO piston, I got mine only roughly 4-5 months, however the piston feel a bit sluggish and not as smooth as I wanted to be; I want lubricate the piston but I'm not sure if I should try and with what tool. If anyone had tried, how did you do it and with what tool?
  12. Hello everyone, I had asked this question on the Italy forum, but did not get any reply, so hopefully someone will be able to help here. I just bout this three (NoS) Omas Deskpens (Two 556T and one 583T), the pistons are extremely stiff and not moving. I need help on how to disassemble the pistons to grease them. Thank you in advance. Best regards, Northstar
  13. Hello, I'd like to share a question about disassembling the piston mechanism on Pelikan 400NN Merz&Krell. I got one today, literally covered in dirt and dust. After few hours of soaking in lukewarm distilled water, I could easily take apart the nib assembly, the collar, the feed, clean and re-set the nib, put everything back together, ink it and write test it. To my surprise, I found it to be in mint condition, perhaps used once and set aside, than forgotten for 40 years. The only thing I was afraid to mess with was taking apart the piston assembly. It isn't a matter of whether I really needed it, I prefer learning how to do it. I understand it is right-threaded (=normal-threaded), but I see no clue for unscrewing it. Is there someone who could give me detailed instructions on how to do it? Should I turn it past the point of having pushed the piston all the way down? I see no dried ink traces on the "wrong side of the piston". These pens are rather scarce, so I haven't done this before and I am afraid of applying force which could break the differential system on this beautiful pen. Any expert hint will be more than welcome. Thanks in advance!
  14. Family owned and operated, Fountain Pen Revolution has come out with their version 2 of the Jaipur fountain pen. Currently there are only 2 acrylics, a blue and an orange and 1 ebonite brown which is the subject of this first look reviewlet. What is it? A piston filler of Indian origin designed and branded by FPR along with a stable of other brands that they sell. The ebonite is smoother and finished better than the Himalaya v2. Himalaya looks and feels more matte whilst the Jaipur is slicker and sheenier. The length is a smidge longer and girthier than the Himalaya with a more cylindrical shape. I much prefer its profile over the himalaya v2 and that pen feels almost perfect. Comparison to an M600 would longer, less taper and slight less girth. Jaipur hits close to Lamy Safari dimensions. Left to right: Leonardo Momento Zero, Pelikan M600, FPR Jaipur v2 with Ultra Flex nib, Lamy Vista (clear Safari) and FPR Himalaya V2 The Jaiput v2 piston filler pen can be completely disassembled for maintenance which is a big plus. Additionally the ebonite feed and nib can be swapped for #6 plastic ones at the FPR shop. Takes about one and a half turns to uncap and Jaipur posts deep and secure. I totally love this. The pen is light at 19.5 grams on my coffee scale. How does it feel?Imagine a light Pelikan M800ish/Lamy Safari sized pen with a very slight tapered grip ending at a very clear and useful ink window. Add an ultra flex steel cut out shouldered nib tuned with an ebonite feed backed by unencumbered volume of piston full of ink. Finally, finally I have converted and firsthand witnessed the praise of pleasurable FPR affordable flex writing. I dare say it is up there with 4x more expensive 14K Gold Jowo flex. Unlike my first stutterings with Himalaya v2, Jaipur v2 wrote straight out of the box no problems. No flushing of feeds or heat settings or bum leaky convertors. I just rinsed the nib and .... WTH!! Let's backtrack... I received shipping at work and could not wait to get home to ink the baby up. Everything check out: no defects and superb build quality, piston worky if not a bit stiff. Knock on wood, I got one from the good batch?! then I came home all hot and bothered in the FP heat phase when to my surprise, I could not undo the blind cap. Blind cap? What's that you say? Well unlike a regular piston converter like Montblanc 146, Pelikan M series, Sailor Realo, etc etc FPR Jaipur v2 has a beautifully thin crafted end cap that the user screws to reveal the actual ribbed piston knob. Clockwise knobbing fills and counter will dispense. I could not get the dang thing off and then I heard a rattle sound and saw separation from the piston mechanism and barrel. We were not dealing with a captured converter here. So just before I'm ready to make love with my new pen, i dun brok it?!@ WTH!@#$ No amount of silicone gripper oven mitt strength twisting would undo the blind cap to access the knob for ink filling! I was really upset as I was not sure I was either tightening the blind cap or loosening it. It would not budge and so I had a pen that could not fill unless I syringed from the nib end which unscrews for nib swaps; basically Jaipur as a crappy eyedropper. Then I remembered FPR introductory video and rewatched for the direction of the twists during the Jaipur overview. https://youtu.be/rkX1p47KbM4 I ended up untwisting out the whole piston assembly then I was able to get better purchase on the blind cap and free it to expose the piston knob. But now I had a piston part to reattach. Luckily I was able to rescrew it back in and get the piston working again. I could filler up! Writing, writing and writingJaipur v2 chews ink up and I love it.Finally can go full plow and refill to use up ink stash. Akkerman Garuda Rood - wet juicy yumCrappy De Atramentis Bamboo Green ink sample - feather like crazy but still juicy though had a couple of skips and hard startsDiluted Organic Studio Nitro also sold at FPR - WOW BAM POW! that and Akkerman have been stellar. I dunno maybe it's the piston volume and not that skinny skank convertor of the Himalaya v2 but the Jaipur v2 feels like a homerun on the writing experience. Page after A5 page, I can just gush and pour without issue with the right ink. The only negatives were the super tightening of the blind cap which I did not truly did not over tightened which I "fixed" with silicone grease ?! to the inner threads AND hard to turn, stiff piston which I hope to fix with silicone grease to the ink chamber though I kinda don't want to mess up the honeymoon by unscrewing the nib and potentially ruins it!! In all, Jaipur v2 is a worthy flagship and I prefer it over my 2 Himalaya v2s: 1 good and the other meh . No heat setting, flushing, leaking, etc. I just fill and write now. As a true testament to this pen, I bought another one at the time of this reviewlet, this time in blue acrylic to see if it holds up to this faithful ebonite version. Hey, need more data points? Here's YouTuber Larry of Larry's Fountain Pens with a word: https://youtu.be/Rj2_eDTcSDU Peace out, write on!
  15. Gutbucketeer

    Do-Write Piston Filler

    I have been cleaning up a Do-Write Piston filler that I won on Ebay. See the pictures. I have been able with soaking, and ultrasonic cleaning to get the nib and feed out, and get it pretty much cleaned of old ink. However, the old simple piston is now detached from the plunger seal and can come all the way out. So here is my question. How can I open the pen up to replace the plunger sealer? Were these old piston fillers glued at both ends, or does one end screw into the barrel? If they were glued in were they typically glued using glue I can heat and loosen or not? You can see at the end of the pen a ring around it where the barrel and screw part for the endcap meet. Or will I have to saw the pen in two and then add an insert to reseal it? It will be fun to try to get the pen working again, but It may end up being just for parts. JAB
  16. hari317

    M101 N Piston Assembly.

    Was getting stiff after nearly 9 years since purchased new. Homemade 7.8mm spanner. LH threads. Another way to do is from nib unit end. Easy access and no tools needed. But I prefer to remove the filler on pens its possible on and grease the seal walls. Ymmv. Hope the pics help someone else attempting DIY.
  17. I wish I had too many dollars, but I do have too many Dollars! I'm speaking, of course, of the piston-filler and syringe-filler versions of these neat fountain pens from Pakistan. http://hisnibs.com/images/Indian/Dollar/DollarBurgundy717iCapTop.jpg I've carried these terrific, inexpensive pens for quite a few years -- and they've always been popular sellers. However, I recently took possession of a large quantity at one time -- and want to move them quickly. It benefits me, and for a limited time, it really benefits you. These models have been entry-level priced at $15.00 for the pistons and $10.00 for the syringes since...well, forever. At that price they've always been great pens to introduce someone to what a piston-filler or syringe-filler fountain pen is all about. They also make great knock-around pens. Well, for a limited time (basically, until I make a significant dent in this huge supply I've received), I'm offering them to you for $5.00 each! See the details in my newsletter here. http://hisnibs.com/images/Miscellaneous/Alignable%20award.png http://hisnibs.com/images/Miscellaneous/Teresa%20at%20pen%20show.jpg I also won a little award last week for sharing a business story. As it involved an incident at a pen show, I thought I'd share it here.
  18. mns68

    Omas Piston !

    Hi all Today I received a NOS OMAS Ogiva 555-S but unfortunately the piston did not move at all ... it looks that it is very much stuck in its place Any suggestion or solutions please Thanks
  19. enchiridion

    Omas Extra Piston Problem

    I have a problem with an Omas extra from about 1946. The turning nob will no set and the piston turns too far so the upper part gets stuck in the barrel. any suggestions?
  20. essayfaire

    Twsbi Go Review (Brief)

    I recently have become very interested in the different filling mechanisms used in fountain pens. As a result, when the TWSBI Go was introduced with a spring-loaded piston mechanism at a reasonable (under US$20) price, I decided to order my first TWSBI. The Go is made of solid-feeling plastic. I like that everything on it feels nice and tight. The pen is a bit short, and I find the width a bit wide for the length of pen. It doesn't really seem to be intended for use posted, which is how I usually write (unless the pen is Capless). This is a demonstrator pen, so everything is on display from the spring that is responsible for drawing the ink to the large ink reservoir (making it easy to see what color is inside). it feels much more substantial in the hand then similar clear plastic pens. I purchased an F nib, which seems to be appropriately labeled. Not particularly smooth, but not scratchy either. I also like that the pen is tapered towards the nib; it makes the width of the pen more suitable (at least for my hand). Pros: LARGE ink reservoir, interesting and fun filling mechanism, price, seems pretty leak-proof Cons: A bit inelegant, a bit wide, the nib is just adequate Bottom Line: Though I like the filling mechanism and ink capacity of this pen, I don't expect to use it often. I did fall in love with the new ink I opened at the same time, however!
  21. cynegils

    Montblanc 149 Leak Piston

    Hi everyone, I am new to the fountain pen network but have already used the large knowledge base here to guide my recent purchase of a used Montblanc 149 from the 90s. I'm very grateful for the the useful information here. Unfortunately, I may not have read quite enough. The pen arrived yesterday from an antiques store in Spain (I'm in NYC). It came with a little ink inside so I used the pen and found it writes wonderfully. However, while flushing the pen for the first time, I noticed there is a considerable amount of ink on the screws of the piston as you can see in the picture I included (that is supposed to be a shiny brass screw!). Also, I noticed that after a day of flushing, it is still not coming out clear, although it is significantly improving. More importantly, I tried to dry it by surrounding the nib with lint free wipes, and it seems like it could be leaking from either the red arrow, or blue arrow region in the picture of the nib, although I am not sure of this. Is this where a leak would/could form? It seems like there is ink everywhere inside. Most importantly, can this be fixed? If I took it apart, and cleaned and greased the different parts, would this fix whatever is wrong? If not, I'll be trying to return this.
  22. frr149

    Pelikan M400 Broken Piston

    Hi, I have a vintage m400 whose piston is broken. The casing of the piston is in 2 pieces. How can I fix this? Can I buy a new piston casing? Thanks!
  23. praxim

    Rebuild Keyway

    I have a recently arrived Soennecken which will allow only very short piston travel, about the length of the ink window or less. Taking it apart, the piston mechanism uses a key on the piston running in a recessed keyway inside the barrel. Examining inside the barrel, I could see that the plastic is slightly fractured on the clockwise (from the back) edge of the keyway. What happens is that the piston draws up then the key enters the fractured section to the side, under torque from the piston knob, and jams there having no further straight path up. A bit like a train accidentally diverting to a siding with no exit route. The first obvious possibility is to rebuild the fractured section, perhaps with an epoxy. The difficulty will be to keep the barrel concentric and to shape the edge sharply. Fiddling around a couple of centimetres down an 8.5 mm barrel, I am not confident of that being a great success, if there is a better resort. Has anyone experience of this type of repair? What worked? I could ask the vendor for money back on the pen sold as already restored (they replaced the cork seal). I prefer to make things work if I can.
  24. spirit_stampede

    Kaweco Dia 803/07 Mini Review

    Kaweco Dia 803/07 Mini Review [Transcript from handwritten review below] I bought this pen on German ebay about a month ago. I always wanted to have a vintage Kaweco but after getting a piston-filler V11 I wasn’t very impressed (the nib was problematic but even if it has been fine, it wouldn’t have been what I was looking for). I stumbled upon this Dia not knowing much about it, but it wasn’t that big of a risk so I told myself ‘Why not?’ The pen came in its original box with a sale receipt dating back to 1958 (!) The pen turned out to be much smaller than I expected but I have small hands and do like smaller/thinner pens in general. Posted, it is perfectly usable. The 803 is a piston-filler and luckily mine didn’t need repairing: It operates quite smoothly for a pen of this age (that hasn’t been restored from what I gathered on the listing description). This is the first pen I have that has a blind cap, which I think is pretty cool. The barrel and cap are made of a plastic-like material that I guess is celluloid. It feels really nice to the touch and I think is a tad heavier than normal plastic. The cap has quite a lot in common with the modern Dia II. The clip on mine is very, very stiff, almost to the point of being unusable but I think it’s only a problem with my specific pen. The nib is very small compared to modern pens I have but not very out of proportion considering the size of this pen. Mine is a 14K nib that says Warranted above the little Kaweco stamp. As it came to me unrestored, the nib is quite scratchy (I think due to a slight bend and misalignment that I need to inspect as soon as I get a loupe and some proper tools). However, it lays down a very charismatic line known to pens from the 50s and 60s that I’ve seen and admired from reading reviews. Part of that charisma is due to the softness and the oblique cut. My only complaint is the section is too short for comfortable writing. That said, there is no large step down between the barrel and section so I can rest my fingers on the threads just fine. Overall, I am very happy with the Dia 803/07 though the nib definitely needs some work. It is a small but fantastic pen that I feel is somewhat underappreciated and often overlooked when it comes to vintage pens. [This is my first review on the forum. Sorry about the image quality ]
  25. enchiridion

    Identification Of System Of Paris Pen

    I'm studying a pen with a strange piston like filling system or kind of vacumatic system (the tube and the limited distance of the stem). The nib is Paris pen. The style is italian, but i doubt that. the bottom of the feed has a marking E The pistons working seem unclear to me and I didn't find an explanation in Marshall & Oldfield. the pictures are bad (iphone), but I'm a bit too intrigued to wait long. I will file better later. Anybody any idea about the system and make?





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