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Showing results for tags 'parker 51'.
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....and another one turns to mush. My Parker 51 Vac has had its little rubber buttony thingy replaced for the second time in two years. Maybe this isn't bad going considering the poor quality of rubber sacs and vac units these days, but this time it has left me with a bit of a pain. It's sucking and vac-ing ok but when I fill it with ink it's leaking down through the nib and a little out from the hood section (possibly even the barrel seal, hard to tell with so much ink on my fingers). I can't remember putting silicone grease in any of the threads the last time, but perhaps I did. My question is should I? Will this halt the leaking?
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Hoping you all could help me with the latest chapter of my Parker 51 collecting / insanity. I've picked up what was advertised as a 'red band' button fill Parker 51, though just one problem, the band is distinctly lacking a red colour . I am aware via the Shepherd 51 book that the red band moved from a plastic to an aluminum band somewhere in the models short life cycle, but it doesn't really give an insight as to what could explain this lack of colour. Strange, as the blind cap seems to be the right size for the button filler and is definitely shorter than a vac blind cap. Not being an expert on this topic, I thought I would throw this one out to the learned folk here at FPN as to what might explain this. A repair job? Franken pen? Normal?
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Dear fellow Parker pen enthusiasts, I have recently acquired a Parker 51 aerometric with a sterling silver pinstriped cap imprinted with made in Canada. The cap has a chrome feathered clip and a chevron band at the bottom of the cap. Does anyone know if canadian made aerometric 51s were made with silver caps? Is such a variant possible? Has anyone else come across this?
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Hi All Today I am going to share my experience with my new(new to me ) Parker 51 Vacumatic . I have bought it from Pen Hospital Kolkata. This was my first visit to pen hospital. The seller is nice and well behaved person. First I have dealt with Sheaffer snorkel, but I have changed my mine after testing the Vac. It cost me Rs 5000(Around $78). This is single jewel pen with a blue diamond in the cap. And the cap is 14 Kt gold plated. And the ring near section is golden(generally we found silver color). The section of the pen is black and engraved with "PARKER 51 MADE IN USA". Nib is fine-medium . It is made of gold and dated 1947. Nib is very smooth in fact this is the smoothest nib I have ever used(I own Waterman Carene, Pelikan M200, Pilot Metal Elabo). May be I should thanks previous owner of this pen . Seller said everything is original(including vac pump ) . It gives me a mixed feeling. Although the pump is working fine as of now, it may need to be serviced after some time. But seller promise me to provide free repair(within 5 Years of purchase).. Thanks
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Can anyone think of a good reason to avoid putting Carbon Black in a Parker 51 Vacumatic?
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I used a tool today to remove the pump filler from my Parker 51 vacumatic. However, in unscrewing the pump mechanism, it seems that the small metal part of it will not come out. What can I do to remove it? I've tried a wooden rod to push it out, but it won't budge.
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I recently took apart my Parker 51 vacumatic to clean it and replace the diaphragm (still looking for the right tool the remove the pump). When I eventually get it all back together, I'd like to avoid using shellac. While I don't anticipate opening the pen for a very long time, I'd still rather avoid having to melt the shellac all over again. Is there and alternative that I could apply to the pen that wouldn't harden over time? I'm thinking silicon grease might be the answer, but I'm not sure.
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Hey all! I'm dipping my toe into the world of vintage pens: starting with a lovely Parker 51 purchased online. I am finding the writing experience a bit frustrating at the moment, and I am not sure if it's a problem with the pen or if it is just me. Symptoms The line variation is very wide: light pressure seems to be quite dry, from my limited experience; a bit more pressure yields a lot of ink. I am not generally heavy handed, but the result is a blotchy scrawl (see pic below). Although I admit my handwriting is scawly normally, it's not quite as blotchy . http://i67.tinypic.com/xfcmlz.jpg User error is of course a possibility, but in the context of my (admittedly non-vintage) FP experience, it just doesn't feel right. Is it a nib replacement job, or am I using a strange grind/worn tip somehow? I can try to get a pic of the nib under a loupe tonight. Any help would be appreciated! Edit: it's an aerometric, on Rhodia A5 stapled, with Waterman Florida Blue (or whatever they're calling it now).
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Hey guys, hope this is the right place, but I've just finished restoring an old Parker 51 and I really wanted to show some people who might care! It was very interesting, and more difficult than normal as I suspect there was an unusual adhesive used on some of it, it took many days of soaking and heating to get it open. The jewel cap needed replacing also, and the whole pen was rather dirty. The sac was leaky so that had to go, too, and the feed tube was so corroded it snapped trying to take it off. What a mess. Now it writes perfectly, what a joy the Parker 51 is! I hope you find these couple of pictures of the process interesting, Cheers, ~Arcy (I just wish I could get the tiny tiny dinks in the cap out, they're not much and merely signs of it's age, but I have another pen with a bigger dink too and I think it would add to my service if I could repair them. I know the process but I'm not quite skilled enough yet, so I will continue practicing on other items first.)
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Does anyone know if there is a good reason not to use Sailor and Iroshizuku inks in vintage Parker 51 pens. I would really hate to damage or destroy one of my beautiful "senior" citizens. My most beloved pens! I know both of these inks a highly saturated and can be a royal pain to clean out of regular piston filling pens. Most of the time I use them in either Sailor or Pelikan pens. I'm sure they would/will be just are difficult or most so, in the older 51's. I just want to make sure they will not damage them, especially if I used one are the only ink in the pen going forward. Your wisdom and advise is highly sought after. Thanks in advance.
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I bought a Parker "51" aerometric from someone and began to experience hard starts with the pen after about a half hour of the pen being capped. I contacted the seller, who offered an immediate refund, but I didn't want to part with the pen. I took the cap off my Hero 616, put it on the Parker 51, and the hard starts went away. I checked the pen cap for a cracked inner cap and all looked good. The seller offered to send me another cap. I put the cap on the pen, and it immediately began to hard start. But with the Hero 616 cap, it does not. The seller tested the second cap in a 51 and did not notice any hard starts. At this point, I am thinking it might be the clutch ring on the pen not forming an air tight seal with the cap. New clutch rings look pretty cheap, so I am wondering whether I should swap the clutch ring out, or is it better to just return the pen in case it's not the clutch ring. Also, would a Hero 616 clutch ring work in a Parker "51" ? I figure since I have a 616 just lying around uninked, I could cannibalize it for parts.
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Hi Everyone, I've been trying to find a straight answer on this but have been unsuccessful. I need to replace the damaged hoods on a couple of my 1950s aerometric Parker 51s, but don't know whether to get the "recessed" hoods which have space inside for an o-ring or the non-recessed ones which simply have threading. Does it matter which kind? Do you have to replace a hood with the same type that was originally on the pen? I'm hoping it doesn't matter, because I'd rather not take the pen apart to find out what kind it has. Thanks for your help!
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Hi everyone, I picked up this gold-filled Parker 51 cap with a blue diamond and a honey jewel on a Parker 51 navy grey aerometric that needs work (so clearly the wrong cap as I was under the impression these were only on the early vacs?) - cap reads '1/10 16k Gold Filled Made in USA'. It has the four parallel lines and the spacing. I know it needs a bit of a clean, but other than that, it's in good condition. The jewel is slightly darker in reality, the pic makes it look a little lighter. The pen itself has a nib which just reads 14 KR, and the barrel and hood are in good condition, but inside it needs everything re-done. It has the '6 times' inscription on the chrome. I'll try and have it repaired and find a more suitable cap for it! I just wanted to ask when this gold cap dates from (I read all the information online but got very confused about 16k and the blue diamond honey jewel combo!), and what pen I should now be tracking down (I know a vac, but which time period?) to go with it ideally in your opinions? Are the honey jewels rare? I remember reading somewhere they were, but have no idea as very new to this. Can the cap be cleaned with a baking soda solution? Hugely appreciate any help. Thanks!
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Hi all. Here's a beautiful poem about beloved objects especially a Parker 51 by the working class poet Philip Levine who passed away in 2015. https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poetrymagazine/poems/detail/57738
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Any ideas to that cap design?
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Do you ever find yourself in awe of a particular pen and ink combination? As if the ink was made for the pen and is the only thing that brings out its full potential. In my experience it's not a very common happen stance. Even rarer still is the perfect pen ink combo that seems to write well on just about any kind of paper. For me I found this combination in a full size black aerometric Parker 51 made in Canada. After doing a full restoration the pen came out looking like new. Moving on to the ink. The ink is Private Reserve DC Super Show Blue. I have tons of ink both new and vintage but I had never tried Private Reserve. Let me tell you the two are perfect for each other. The pen has never written better. The color, shading, and saturation were perfect not to mention the exceptional ink flow. I encourage you to describe your perfect pen ink combo that just seems to blow all your other pens out of the water.
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I got my first P51 today and I just find out that is Mark III. I just read that this pens were not made with the same materials as the Mark I or Mark II; instead of lucite the used a softer plastic that is more propense to shrink and scratching. My pen is in excellent condition, actually I think Im the first owner, so my question is: how much time does my pen have before any signs of shrinking or finger wear marks or anything like that? I'm kind of sad because I bought this pen for its bulletproofness...
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Hello, I'm relatively new to fountain pens, I've used Lamy Safaris for years when I was in school, but didn't know that much about fountain pens. Recently I've become more interested in them. Several months ago I was gifted a Waterman Hemisphere and am quite happy with it. Of course it's not the best Pen out there and it's somewhat small for me. Enough introduction for now. I like the design of Parker 51, 21 and those pens which look very similar. The hooded nib, the relatively unpretentious design. I would like to get a similar pen. It doesn't need to have a gold nib, actually a steel nib is what I would prefer die to the affordability. Of course you can get vintage Parker pens on eBay but I'm not really experienced with buying vintage pens. I can't assess how well their conditions is. Another option are pens like the Hero 616, which design-wise are copies but many people complain about their quality. Caps that cratch the barrel each time you use the cap, leaking bladders and so on. To get to the point: I' like to have a Pen like the Parker 21. Could you more experienced fountain pen users give me some advice? Is it possible to get a Parker 21 on eBay for a reasonable price? I mean I don't want to pay as much as I would pay for a really decent new pen. Are there copies of the Parker 21 or 51 whose quality is good enough to be used for some time without having ink all over your desk? Or are there maybe other modern pens with a hooded nib (not the Lamy 2000, Vanishing Point or something in this price range)? I'm looking forward for some tips. Thank you!
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http://tinyimg.io/i/lbWcpng.JPGhttp://tinyimg.io/i/k3u6oBb.JPGhttp://tinyimg.io/i/ug0grHI.JPGhttp://tinyimg.io/i/KbWhGao.JPGhttp://tinyimg.io/i/DUaorGF.JPG Does anyone know if there is someone I cant send this pen to for repairs? Both tines are slanted to the left and I don't even know where to start on this or which nibmeister can handle this kind of damage on the nib
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Good day all! I need help in identification of the colour of this Parker 51. It is a pale green, definitely not forest green or teal... It perhaps could be Nassau Green. It is an aerometric filler and as per Parker51.com, there were few aerometric filler nassau greens made for export. Any help in this regard would be very much appreciated! Regards, SS
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I've seen a couple of pens on ebay in a box labeled "Parker "51" -- Super "21". They're advertised as 21s. Does anyone know if that's what's likely to be in the box? Thanks!
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I'd like to know about other people's experiences with Parker 51 oblique nibs. The one I own is the finickiest nib I've got.
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One of the 'last' pens that I'd like to get my hands on is the highly regarded Parker 51. Prices are, to no surprise, all over the map online when it comes to how much these things sell for. I'm sure there are model differences that makes some more expensive than others though. So two questions that I think will help me greatly navigating this map; 1) Is there any particular model I should try to get/stay away from? I read somewhere that if you can...don't get the one with "Special" written on the inside as it was a lower-cost pen back then. What are some of the 'best' versions out there to get? 2) And...how much should I expect to pay for one of those 'better' versions taking into consideration that; - it's fully restored, - in very nice external condition (no dents, etc), and - a fine nib. My 'budget' is about $50. Is that realistic? Thanks in advance!
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Hi Everyone, About one month ago I purchased my first Parker 51 from a member here on FPN. I was rather ambivalent about the pen at first but I had heard that every collection should have at least one P 51 so I took the plunge and got one. To make a long story short, I absolutely LOVE the pen! I am now hopelessly addicted to P51's and want to add more to my collection! The pen I bought here was already broken down, cleaned and was ready to write when I got it. Over the past week I have purchased two additional P51's off the Bay (probably not the smartest move considering my novice state) and they seemed like a good deal. I have not yet received either pen in the post but I am anticipating having to do some cleaning and set up once they arrive. I have immersed myself in learning here and on other sites about cleaning P51's prior to use. Bruce's "sticky" in this section has been most useful as well as Richard Binder's extraordinary knowledge. My question is: when I receive these pens I have an ultrasonic cleaner. Should I immediately start to clean them or should I attempt to see if they fill and write first? If I did use the ultrasonic do I need to take apart the pen to do an adequate job or could I just put the nib,section and sac, not taken apart, in the cleaner? I have never taken a P51 apart and although it doesn't sound too difficult I would rather avoid it if possible. My track record with things like that usually end up with problems, either broken parts, difficult reassembly, etc. In other words, Murphy's Law usually applies to me. I really want to learn to work on my pens but I'd rather not use P51's for my education in doing so. Jinhao's or the like are more to my comfort level when learning. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!
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Buying A Used Parker 51 - What To Check?
Hermina Haller posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Hi! I hope I am asking this question in the right place. I have come across a nice, used Parker 51 online and am about to meet the seller in order to inspect the pen before purchase. Since I haven't bought used pens before, I was wondering what I should look for and what I should check in order to make sure that the pen is ok. Thank you in advance!
