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Thought it might be Yellowstone/Mustard, initially, but find nothing comparable online. Photography can throw things off somewhat, but what are the chances that there'd not be a single pic that's even close? Could it be a rouge colour? It isn't even close to the Mustard here: https://parkerpens.net/parker51.html or here: https://www.peytonstreetpens.com/parker-51-vacumatic-1948-double-jewel-set-gold-cap-mustard-fine-excellent-restored.html somewhat similar to this, though not terribly close: http://vintageparkerpen.xyz/2018/06/rare-vintage-parker-51-double-jewel-fountain-pen-mustard-yellow-vacumatic-exc/

This is certainly the most shocking / awe inspiring news from the Chinese Fountain Pen market that came surfaced recently .... well ... take a look yourself Parker China had the pages taken down already but the leak is out .... first photo show text say " new generation Parker 51 " , 2nd photo show comparing to original P51 , the last photo shown steel cap with steel nibs and gold plated ( look like VPD ) cap with 18K nib ; not much info, but look like a Chinese market only model and is rumored to be made not by Parker themselves but a long time local partner ( guess we know who ). No pricing yet and no info regarding as if its real or marketing testing the water ( Parker did once or twice try something like that in Chinese market ).

I have a few Parker 51 pens that I've taken apart, cleaned out, and now it's time to replace their sacs, so I thoroughly removed any gunk and residue from the sac nipple, then shellac'd the new sac and left it to dry for a day or so. The result: after the shellac dries, it seems that it doesn't provide a good air seal. There seem to be "bubbles" under the sac between the "ridges" of the sac nipple, and as I apply some pressure on the sac, it starts to separate from the sac nipple very easily. For this reason, I'm too afraid to put this in a pen, because even though it sold of holds, I'm afraid it would come loose and start to leak soon. It also seems that the shellac is weak, if I apply very little force the sac comes off easily. I've now repeated the process 3 times, tried 2 different kinds of shellac, each time cleaning out the gunk and residue from the previous attempt carefully. But I always get the same result. What am I doing wrong? Is there a trick that I'm missing here? This feels very silly because I was able to do this successfully in the past but for some reason I can't get it right this time.

I've disassembled a couple of Parker 51s for cleaning and tuning. On one of these pens, the sac came off even though I didn't really want to take it off. I assume when I heated it up in order to take off the hood, it must've also destroyed whatever was holding this sac in place. The sac itself is somewhat discolored but it doesn't seem torn or damaged in any way. Is it okay to reuse this old sac by shellacing it back to the connector when I reassemble the pen? Or is this something that I shouldn't do?

Hey guys, During my vacation in Greece, my bag was stolen and with it my trusty Parker 51. So I started to search for a replacement on ebay and a few other sites, and I just realized that they are now selling for like 2-3x the price I got mine back in 2018. It was a British burgundy 51 with a rolled silver cap, and I got it for about 60 bucks or so in 2018. But now, I can't find the same model anywhere below 180~200. Hell, I can't even find a decent one with a lustraloy cap below 100~120. What gives?

On the left side, there is the usual Parker 51 cap shape that I was already familiar with. On the right, it's a cap that came with a Parker 51 that I recently got from ebay. It has the 51 printed on it along with "1/10 12K GF" then "Made in USA". However it's suspicious to me that it has a somewhat slimmer apperance, a smaller jewel and a longer arrow clip. Can the cap on the right side of the picture be legit for the pen it came with? The pen is an otherwise ordinary looking aerometric 51 with the filler that has the black plastic bit at the top and the "To fill press ribbed bar firmly 4 times..." imprint and a barrel that says "Made in England". I think the fact that the barrel comes from England and the cap from the USA is quite suspicious. However, I'm pretty sure I've read about some early aerometric 51s that have a longer clip, so maybe this is just one of those? What do you guys think?

In keeping with my theme of doing things because I was told I can't... Parker Superchrome Jade Green! Yes, the slightly LESS deadly ink invented to replace Parker "51" ink! If you are not familiar with Parker "51" ink and the story behind it, please feel free to see my reviewsTunis Blue: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/354212-parker-51-tunis-blue/?hl=%2Btunis+%2BbluePan American Green: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/353661-parker-51-pan-american-green/?hl=%2Btunis+%2Bblue So, now that everyone knows why "51" ink had to go the way of the dinosaurs, let's take a look at its replacement!Launched around the same time as the new Aero-Metric (1948ish) version of the Parker "51" pen, the advertising for Superchrome was VERY bright and vibrantIt even went as far as to explain how this magical ink would soak into the paper and dry nearly instantly, instead of by evaporation!Here's the patent: https://patents.google.com/patent/US2528390NEAT! Ok, so what happened then? Why is this called the "slightly less deadly" ink? and why can't i find it in stores!? Because it was discontinued in 1956 ok, but WHY!? Well, Parker started getting warrantee claims on their new Aero-metric "51"s... a lot of them... seems the alkalinity of Superchrome was actually eating up breather tubes!And they were made of STERLING SILVER... eventually, replacing them starts to get expensive ya know! you can read more about "51" and Superchrome here:http://www.richardspens.com/ref/care/51_ink.htm My Bottle is a slightly later bottle, the first ones came in a cool metal tin! According to the Parker "51" book, my box was designed around 1949And was awarded an honourable mention by the Folding Box Association of America! Wow... really!? the FBAoA!? no way! Yes way! it says so on page 145 of the Parker "51" book! here is my box and bottle pictured with my green Parker "51" Special Demi There was some sedimentation in the bottle, much like the Tunis Blue bottle, but much less of it, and not stuck to the bottom of the bottle.As with the Pan American Green, don't worry, I shook the bottle excessively in order to try and get those precious dyes back into suspension (not solution)! ok, but what does it look like on paper you ask? well I'm glad you asked, cause that's the whole point of this shindig! (Typed Text follows for search-ability, and because my handwriting is atrocious!) Rhodia Webnotebook, paper is slightly off white in real life 15 Jul 20Parker Superchrome JadeGreen. Bought 3oz bottleon eBay Jun-ish 2020. Thisis the second deadliest inkin history. Only the inkit replaced (Parker "51") isworse! Meant to "dry" nearly instantly it was designedto soak into the paper. Toobad it also ate sterlingsilver breather tubes...More teal than Green, buthat may be due to the age of the bottle. Some dryout when left over night in a pen(Dry times in a Wing Sung 601 and a TWSBI Eco 1.1)Would buy Again?N/A Parker SuperchromeJade GreenEco 1.1mmWing Sung 601Shading: Good/Very GoodSaturation: GoodFeathering: NilSpread: NilBleed: NilCleaning: Easy/Medium (Water tests, dripped and dabbed vs rubbed with a wet Q-tip) Notes: Colour is very close to Diamine Marine. FlowsOK. Pan American Greenis much greener.*Leaves a white crust/residue! (On the feed and nib, Seen well after cleaning and drying the Eco. So that white residue on "51" Feeds? yeah... probably from this ink!) Clairefontaine Notebook paper, paper is VERY white Parker SuperchromeJade GreenTwsbi Eco 1.1 mm stubThe quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog.1234567890Clairefontaine PaperDry Times 30 25 20 15 10 5 1Wing Sung 601Drytimes: 30 25 20 15 10 5 1 The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog1234567890 Parker SuperchromeJade GreenDiamine MarineJade Green Marine So that's it. That's Parker Superchrome Jade Green. It's a lot like Diamine Marine, except you know, super expensive, hard to find, and will kill your pen!While also leaving a weird white residue on your nib and feed... yay!

Hello y'all! So I've seen mention of the famous Parker 51 EVERYWHERE. Whenever anyone is asked their favourite Parker Pen, it's more often than not their beloved Parker 51. What's so great about the Parker 51? What makes it different? Are there many makes/models of the Parker 51? Where does one go to acquire one, as I'm pretty sure they are vintage? Any information would be very much appreciated. -Charles

I'm stumper by a Parker 51 Aerometric that drops gobs of ink into the cap or on the page. It had a broken collector, replaced that, gave a new ink sac, ran a thin steel wire through the breather tube and blew through it, put everything back together but the problem persists. Saying I'm stumped would be an understatement. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hi, I'm still on the fence about whether or not i've done the right thing by keeping the original sterling silver breather tube in my 51 aero, previously on my other 51 aero i replaced this as it was snapped off. but i decided to keep the original in this pen because i had no breather tubes on hand and shipping them to my country takes over 2 weeks, and with the whole Covid-19 thing i fear it would have taken longer. about 3mm snapped off the end where it goes into the feed (i did get the broken part out, using Ron Z's method) but now the little breather hole is a little closer to the feed than before, is this ok and is the pen going to fill and empty fine? the breather tube is clear and has no signs of further deterioration. Thanks all. (this is the same pen I made a post about not being able to get the hood off lol, as you can see im still learning )

I haven't ventured much into the world of vintage Parker pens, but after hearing endless good things about the 51, I am thinking of getting one. I am curious to know where you would recommend looking for one (best online stores) and what prices to look for. So far it looks like I could potentially get one for around $80 or so (looking for a regular sized vacumatic P51) but I want to make sure it is restored and in decent condition (I am looking on Ebay, but I have had some bad pen experiences on Ebay and I would want to make sure it is a good seller). So, what price should I look for with a P51 Vacumatic, and where should I look? (I have also been scanning classifieds but I don't see many there). Thank you for any info Edit: Likely doesn't matter, but I am okay if it doesn't have a nib in it - just might give a few more options

Hello Members, I'm currently restoring my grandfather's Parker 51 with a 12K gold cap. The process been surprisingly smooth so far, thanks to YouTube and good luck probably, except I noticed that the nib of the pen doesn't seem quite right. It's a 14k nib and the tip is bent towards the right a bit. I don't have much experience with these pens and I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas about what options I have to remedy this problem. Would I have to purchase a new nib? If so, where can I find one? Could the nib be repaired? Any recommendations of who would be up to the task? I'd appreciate any help in the matter. Thank you kindly! Sincerely, ALA

As the title implies, I don't own a Parker 51 but would like to. Any tips for making a first purchase? Tips for buying one without seeing it in person? (ie: FleaBay / FeeBay) I'm especially interested in knowing what to watch for, what questions to ask, what is considered a fair price, which version is easiest to clean, expected restoration cost, etc. Others, those who are would be collectors, might also be interested in which colors, years, nibs are considered most collectible.

I have a Parker 51 desk pen that I obtained a number of years. It arrived with some sort of bumpy texture on the hood. It also seems to be on the inside of the hood but not to the same extent as the exterior. This is the best picture I could get for now. It COULD be some sort of clear spray on coating that dried too fast to smooth out but not sure how to find out. This is on a 51 desk pen with chalk marks still intact on the barrel. Any ideas what this is?

I recently purchases a Parker 51 Special that had a nib misaligned with the hood by about 30 degrees. While trying to take the hood off in order to re-align, the connector separated into two pieces (I don't know if it was already broken, or I did it trying to disassemble). See the picture below. Everything seems to work and it draws ink and writes, but about 1/2 the time when I try to take the cap off the hood and nib now remain in the cap, and the bottom half of the connector stays with the barrel. What is a Parker 51 Special connector made of, and what us the best adhesive to use to glue pieces back together? I have on hand a plastic epoxy, super glue, or Testors 3502xt liquid glue for plastic (part acetate and part MEK). JAB

Hello! I recently obtained my Grail pen, a Parker 51 "Special" in Sterling, but unfortunately the section was cracked in several places. This Parker 51 section has a special layout, with it's feed being a pull-twist removal feed. Because this part is seldom sold anywhere due to color and type, and is extremely expensive when sold; I have decided to repair it. Being just an amateur restorer, I contacted a very nice fellow (Siamack) and he/she guided me to a Parker 51 repair thread! This thread from Siamack leads me to the repair materials. I have decided to use either Loctite Shoe Glue (unorthodox) or Plastruct Plastic Weld (volatile, hold stronger). I picked shoe glue due to it's silicone properties (watertight, harmless to most plastics), it's very strong features (I've repaired statues with this type of adhesive), and it's availability, and Plastruct is picked due to it's recommended use in the forums. Feed, section, and clutch ring An easier repair job removal of clutch ring shows no extra cracks. I now have a problem: How would we remove the inner "tube" inside the section? The tube restricts access to the cracks on the top of the section, so it's removal is a must. - Thanks to all who comment and read!

A couple of weeks ago I spotted a lovely burgundy vintage Sheaffer on the website of a well-known and reputable British vintage pens dealer, at a very attractive price. I ordered the pen, but as fate would have it, the dealer sent me an email that upon final inspection he'd found a hairline crack in the section, so the deal was off. We corresponded for a bit and I shared my small collection of vintage pens with him and inquired what he felt was needed 'to complete my education'. Among the pens he kindly suggested was the Parker 51. I've never been a Parker fan, based on looks that I don't care for, bad associations with my 70s/80s school days and less-than-stellar impressions left by modern Parker pens since the '90s or so. I researched the 51 a bit online, on FPN and in Andreas Lambrou's book and took the plunge. I then spent a few days agonizing over which one to buy. The dealer in question has a large number of them, all fully serviced and restored, with a wide variety of nib-, colour- and era-choices. He suggested a wonderful burgundy oblique italic because it was in great shape and a real writer's pen. I hesitated, because I'd prefer to try a nib like that before I buy. In the end, primarily based on the wonderful writing samples that were included along with photographs of the pens, I chose this: Boxed, with matching mechanical pencil, fully serviced and at a very good price. There are fancier colours for this pen, but I always force myself to make choices based on writing, not aesthetics. The writing sample of this pen just seemed to match my style of writing. Once it arrived, I decided to ink it up with a dark ink (I'm partial to filling pens with ink of the same colour as the pen). I'm very impressed with the quality of this pen. They just don't make 'em like this anymore. I don't find the design to be particularly attractive, but it does have a certain Sputnik-age late'40s/early-'50s charm. It must have been quite modern at the time. Ergonomically, it's wonderful. It just melts into my hand. The nib is a medium. It's smooth and wet, but not sterile. There's texture, some subtle feedback. There's not much character in the writing, as line width is identical in all directions. The wetness of the pen prevents shading, but there is some to be seen. As a writing machine, this pen is marvellous. I can do long sessions with it without any fatigue. It won't make me forget my '59 Sheaffer PFM-III, though. That pen has subtle variations in line width, offers more shading, has slightly more pleasant feedback and is a stunner to look at. As far as black cigars go... wow.

Hi folks, I had my eye on a 51 on Ebay that only had four fairly uninformative photographs and fairly minimal description (made in Canada, Parker 51), but the nib looked potentially interesting (though a little out of focus) It could have been blurriness - or a very broad nib. I made an offer of £20, and figured at worst I would have a parts pen. Turned out to be a 1947 vac-fill 51 in reasonable condition, with a seriously broad stub nib. I've only dipped it so far, but it writes really nicely. I'm waiting for a diaphragm & shellac in the post (my last bottle of shellac dried out), and I've been soaking the nib in clean water for the last couple of days. I can't wait to get it up and running! 51 Vac, broad stub nib by Robin Inkysloth, on Flickr 51 Vac, broad stub nib by Robin Inkysloth, on Flickr

Ok, so I have more Parker 51's than I would care to admit to. So far, I've limited them to a diet of Quink as it cleans out of the P51 really easily. However, Parker's royal blue has to be one of the most boring blue's on the planet - so I'm looking for an alternative. I have plenty of Waterman Inks, as well as MB Royal Blue and Pelikan Brilliant Black and Turqouise, but I'd rather not put an ink in that proves to be difficult or have issues - such as Diamine's reds or greens. So, does anyone have any recommendations of inks that they've used with their P51's without much trouble?

Has anyone used Platinum Carbon or another permanent micropigment ink in a Parker 51, and what were the results? How insane is this idea? I am concerned about particles clogging the finely finned collector.

I suppose this could be the beginning of a debate but I have noticed something that is a bit surprising to me. My experience (so far, at least) would indicate that the Parker 45 is typically a smoother writing pen than the "51." Let me explain: About 5 years ago, I purchased my very first Parker 51, a1949 Aerometric from the daughter of its original owner, a man who obviously took good care of his Parker 51. The pen is the classic Forest Green with a 14K Gold-filled cap and is a wonderfully writing fountain pen. Since then, I have purchased two more "51s" truly "in the wild." Both of them are vacumatics. All three of my "51s" have the more common fine to medium fine nib and all three have about the same degree of writing smoothness with, perhaps, my first "51" being the smoothest. Just a few days ago I posted a response on this forum about Parker 45 converters and an experience I had with my first "45." All of this got me to thinking because I now have 4 Parker "45s" and, with the exception of one of them, they seem to write with a smoothness one would expect from a "51." In fact those three "45s" write smoother than all three of my "51s." So my question is this: Did Parker really perfect their expertise in "nibology" (is that a new word?) to the point that the somewhat inexpensive Parker 45 consistently writes with "51" or better smoothness or do I have three "51s" that are not characteristic of how smoothly a "51" can write? Granted, it seems that the "45" is typically a wetter writing pen and the finer nibs of my 3 "51s" would naturally "feel" less smooth because of a smaller contact surface but the question, I believe, is one worthy of comment by those of you with more experience in this area. Cliff

hi guys. just joined the "FPN" after i was looking for this pen my dad had bought back in the 90s. growing up, we used fountain pens at school. i almost always had a parker vector (which i kept on loosing) or a bunch of hero (parker 51 look alike) pens while my sister had an actual parker 51. i was going through our old boxes and came across a pen set that my dad had picked up at an expo back around 1997. it was a "pen quest 2000" all steel body ballpoint, roller ball and fountain pen. i looked it up online and it brought me to the fountain pen network where someone had posted pictures of. the one i have is slightly different but it was nice to hear that someone else also had it. i wonder how much it would be worth today. i got back into fountain pens recently and have just ordered my first "fancy" pen. ive ordered a Montblanc 146. this is after i had been experimenting with some local and chinese pens. i currently wish i had kept the fountain pens from back when i was still in school as i really miss the parker vector and the beautiful marble red piston filling waterman i had back in highschool. i didnt really appreciate them back then and i remember i had dropped my waterman on the floor and bent the gold plated nib plus i never liked how it kept on bleeding through the paper i was using at the time. considering the crappy copy paper i was using back then and the fact that the waterman was an absolute gusher. i really wish i had kept it and would have appreciated it more. ive also been experimenting with mixing inks to get more shades. mixed the apache sunset from noodlers with the run of the mill pelican royal blue 4001.....it gave me a really vibrant olive green somehow. has anyone else experimented with ink mixing? or am i just wasting the expensive inks?! haha im thinking about experimenting with food coloring and see if i can come up with some unique shades (for much cheaper price) good to be on here. hopefully i can get some of you guys to respond on this.

So, I recently bought a Parker 51 from the flea market. It was in a pretty sorry state. I did a complete restoration.After removing the hood, cleaning the feed, collector, breather tube and so on, I went on and replaced the filler unit with a new one. Then I polished the exterior of the pen using a buffer and then some micro-gloss. All good so far. I started to write with the pen. It produced a very wet line and the writing experience was super smooth. Then this happened. After a few sentences the pen started to become very dry and after a bit more the ink flow completely stopped. I waited a bit and then it begun to write again. This was an endless loop. The first thought that crossed my mind was that I am dealing with a not so clean collector. I cleaned it. Still no luck. I tried a new collector. Same...the pen run dry. I tried a new nib, a new hood, a new feed nothing. And then I thought about the way that ink is delivered into the collector. THE BREATHER TUBE. It has a hole on top, which allows the user to fill ink without, removing it every time the filler is pressed. However there was no hole on the bottom (or at least mine didn't), to allow any ink to escape from the barrel and go back to the feed/collector. (In contrast with the aerometric breather tube that has one, for this purpose). This had to be it, there is no other logical explanation, I said to myself. So I picked up a dental hook, heated the end of the hook with a torch , and then opened a tiny hole just above the bottom of the breather tube. (It had to be smaller than the one on top, because if it wasn't then it would defeat the purpose of having a breather tube in the first place, which is to have more ink going in, than going out.) I then reassembled the pen and begun to write. That did the trick, the ink flow is now super consistent and pretty wet (Note that the size of the hole that is opened, determines the wetness of the pen. The smaller, the dryer). For anyone who will ask, no there are no leaks, no ink blots, just a very satisfying wet line.

So I had purchased a parker 51 from an antique store for 10$( i know it was a steal) I cleaned it up made sure everything was working, added some diamine ink in it but at times when I was writing notes, the pen would completely stop writing. At first, I presumed it was not enough ink so I refilled it but after the problem still remained. Do any of wise men and women of FPN know as to why this is?