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Quick fun. Just got my falcon with Office Depot 30% online deal. Took a few weeks but finally here. I need to adjust and widen Baoer feed but not too bad on test run. I have to adjust to the Falcon but its growing on me quickly. I was impressed with the noodlers nib. Just what I expected from semi-flex. Now I have to tinker with that flow. I expect the falcon will loosen up a bit after regular writing. Noodlers had no problem using moderate pressure.

Hello, fellow fountain pen enthusiasts! It so happened, that I found myself in possession of old REFORM Calligraph pen with B-nib. And I asked myself, why not to try to switch its nib to something more flexible? So, obviously, I looked in the direction of Noodler’s. The problem is, I can’t find out, whether any of two (#2 and #6) Noodler’s flex nibs is suitable for REFORM pen. Thus if anybody has any experience in changing nibs in these German pens, please share your knowledge with me. Thank you.

Hi guys, I have a fairly new Safari with fine nib and Noodler's Hear of Darkness ink that keeps drying out or clogging up and skipping. Not sure if the fault is in the pen, ink or combination of two. Any advise would be appreciated. p.s. I have other various other pens filled with noodlers ink and they seem fine.

[video=youtube;MvlZJ0iUGuQ] Intro: I like to use Fountain pens at work, and there isn’t always good paper to use, and I really do not like the look of feathering especially if I write something and need to give it to a college. So I was very interested to see if Noodler’s X-feather could be the answer to my woes. I ordered a sample from the Goulet Pen company and set to testing. Testing parameters: I used my Lamy 2000 with a fine nib because I think it was a good simulation with putting just enough ink on the page to test how the ink performs on the page(s). I also needed a “control” so I used the ink that I have been using for a few years now; Lamy Black. I then used three different papers to see how both inks performed on each. The results: There was virtually no difference between the inks both in darkness and in feathering performance. As it would seem Noodler’s X-Feather has no unique properties that prevent it from feathering. I will say that it is a nice performing ink, and the better water-resistant characteristics is the Lamy Black does not have. So in conclusion, if you are looking for an ink to stop feathering then we still need to wait for something, however if you want to have a good performing black ink then both Lamy Black and Noodler’s X-Feather are good choices.

Hi all, I picked up a bottle of Noodlers Bernanke Blue at the London pen show recently and I'm afraid, have really not got along with it. So I am left with a nearly completely full bottle of ink that is likely to sit in my drawer for years. Does anyone have any advice regarding what to do with this Ink? I feel like just throwing it away is a crime! Would anyone be wanting to do an ink swap or simply wants to take this off my hands for free? (surely someone must like this ink?) This is my first post on the forum, so let me know if I've done something horrifically wrong, and I will do my best to correct it! Thanks, Fletch

Hello y'all! I've been getting more and more into inks, and I've run across several that intrigue me, and several that I don't think I'll ever touch. One ink that piques my interest immensely is Noodler's Blue Ghost. Has anyone tried Noodler's Blue Ghost? What have been your experiences with it? -Charlie

After weeks of searching for a bottle of Noodler's Black Ink, my local brick and mortar finally received a shipment and reserved a 3oz bottle for me. I was told that the while the ink performs very very well on cheap paper and has amazing water resistance, I was advised by the worker that I shouldn't use this ink in demonstrator pens like the TWSBI Diamond 580/Vac 700 or any clear pen at that, because "the ink will stain the inside of the pen." Is that statement true? If that's the case (or not the case), will this Noodler's Black be safe to use in converters such as the LAMY converter or Platinum converter?

I'll just paste my 'about me' from my profile. I'll not get on the soap box again, thanks to you all already -BIn the second half of my life, I'm using my time while retired/disabled after 23+ years as an Officer of Marines; CWO4 (Marine Gunner) and former Master Sergeant (prior to my Officer lobotomy) I stay busy when not swamped with stuff or just feeling down right horrible as a book reviewer, editor, and still continue analytical work for various people/businesses and occasionally still do consulting work for the Marine Corps and DoD ....... Advocating for Liberty and Veterans who suffer with Traumatic Brain Injury (TBI), Severe Memory Impairment, Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD), Traumas, and those with Crohn's Disease and Seizure Disorder. Of course too I may muster the courage to begin my Scale Models again but in addition to it all fight pain,tremor, and atrophy caused by neuropathy so bad that it maybe something best to just hang up and sell off. I've lost nearly every enjoyable skill and struggle with the idea of "doing it at all if I can't do so to the ability I once had". My 1965 Galaxie 500 LTD and Harley are gone as a result of the desires and memory issues so that and losing the opportunity of a second careeer sucks big time. I'm most busy with doctors appointments and maintaining my 118 year old house, my shop, ranting, retirement, and sometimes more... I spend most of the day in my library/study and may sometimes blog aside from my other stuff. My blog was begun right before my health, career, and entire life's direction was wildly changed, so though the page is 3+ years old, it is bare boned. My wonderfaul wife and partner of 21 years and I have 3 daughters (23, 20, & 10) and my service/seizure dog 'Reagan' (a Transylvania Hound).I have always insisted upon myself, my Marines, and my girls that their handwriting and deliverables that leave their desks are an example and often a first impression of their own character of professionalism and disciple. If it's your notes or your journal, that's one thinks; but if it is going to be seen by someone else it must be your best. I don't have extremely expensive pens, but what I have are of good quality and they are used extensively with my very rarely using a ball point pen or marker. Of course math/hand-analysis and editing markup is still often done with pencil, but everything aside is ink 'properly. I had to learn to read and write all over again after my brain injury, but I continue my journal that is now beginning it's 27th year and in addition I still write my wife of 21 years a love letter each day. I look forward to learning from each of you and pray I will be of assistance to many as well. I have much experience with different mediums aside from fountain pens to include, dip, technical pens, pastels, pencil, and alcohol pens with a solid background in what works and what doesn't with all brands, mediums, and surfaces while making sure the combination matches the intended purpose.Semper Fidelis, CWO4 Shannon Beaman USMC'Smooth is Fast, Fast is Smooth' Edited for errors only, content not altered. -B

Hello, I've always been careful with my 61, putting some tame blue or black into it while my other pens enjoy my 'fancier' inks. It's kind of a shame since my 61's nib is really smooth and wet, and I'd love to put a high-sheen Noodler's ink or the rest of my Emerald of Chivor in there, but I was always leery of the capillary filler's sensitivity, especially with pigment or gold particulates. Has anyone had the bravery to put a nastier ink in their capillary 61's, and what has been the success rate of such an endeavor? Regards!

I saw a video....a long video as is Nathan's want....about a new ink but in it there was mention of a new safety pen from Noodler's and there were also quite a few nice looking ebonite dip pens on display. The video was so long and rambling I must confess I didn't sit through it all so may have missed vital details. I headed off to Noodler's own website but there was no info about it there and nothing on any other pen store sites. Anyone have any more info?

I received my Noodler's Flex pen in Apache Tortoise the other day from Pure Pens. Not had a flex pen before and wasn't sure quite what to expect. I'd read here and elsewhere varying opinions of these, some good, some bad - smelly! Though mine actually smells quite pleasant, a rather sweet, heady smell. And mine came with a spare non-flex nib as well. My other concern was the setup as after buying first then reading about them in more depth, they seemed to be problematic to get going with and I was concerned I had wasted my money. I did have a few issues as I have noted in my review but generally it writes well. There is a good setup tutorial here on FPN I found: Noodler's Ahab Beginner Guide and Goulet Pens has some really helpful videos as well. As my written review says - apologies for the awful writing my excuse being it is a flex pen ... - it is quite a different experience writing with it compared to FPs I am used to - Parkers, Lamy, various Chinese pens, etc - and I wasn't sure what to expect or if my experiences are similar to other users, I'd be interested to know what other people's experiences are.

I'd like to do some comparative reviews of a few dark turquoise/teal/green-black inks and will start with this super-long name ink: Organics Studio's "Masters of Writing" series Volume No. 14 Henry David Thoreau "Walden Pond Blue" (Handmade in Maryland) http://i.imgur.com/uZHMquL.jpg?1 The ink comes in a 55ml plastic bottle, labeled simply "Walden" and appears to be highly saturated. I've seen sample reviews of this ink showing a high amount of sheen, and I can confirm it is indeed the case, though of course the sheen level depends on how much ink your pen puts down. For high flow feed/wet nibs, and especially for dip pens, this ink is an absolute sheen monster! The sheen is of very metallic burgundy/magenta color, quite nice. Shading is low to moderate, depending on pen and paper. Lubrication is at least moderate. For my review I chose my favorite paper to show off inks: Fabriano's EcoQua dot notebook made with Bioprima 85g/m2 paper. It is a bit toothier than Rhodia or the glass-smooth Clairefontaine, and is a nice pale ivory color. It also shows off color and ink saturation well, compared to my Clairefontaine paper, which makes even saturated inks look more pale and anemic (you can probably tell I'm not a fan of that paper). Unlike some of my more watery inks, I was able to use this ink with a dip pen without having to re-dip after every few letters. It seems to be more viscous/coating in that regard. This could be a great ink for ornate writing with a dip pen, if lots of metallic sheen is desired. Here is a [slightly overexposed] scan, though also see photographs that follow, the paper is actually a cream color, not white: http://i.imgur.com/Of2QhWf.jpg?1 The water test was done with a single droplet of water from the tap (more toward the left) followed by more droplets on the right side of the grid, after the ink had about 3 minutes to dry. I think it's fairly water-resistant in that the color washes away, but the lines are still visible. Because it is so saturated, it takes a while to dry, depending on your pen. I used a Lamy Safari with 1.1 italic nib for dry time testing. In the scan above, I also wrote with Noodler's Aircorp Blue Black, which is VERY close in color to this ink but completely lacks sheen. Other differences between the two are: - Noodler's ACBB is a tad less vivid teal and a shade more subdued. It also seems to be just a bit darker. I would say that ACBB is the closest match for the Lamy Safari "Petrol" pen barrel in person, followed by this Walden Pond Blue. I have also made some test writing samples for color fastness comparisons, which I will add to this review at a later date. Eventually, beside Noodler's Aircorp Blue Black, I plan to compare this ink to Sailor's Jentle Yama-Dori, Robert Oster "Tranquility", Robert Oster "Fire & Ice", Robert Oster "Aqua", and J. Herbin's "Emerald of Chivor", samples of which are on the way to me as I type this review. Photographs that show the colors and the sheen (very difficult to show correctly, but it's a greenish teal, not quite as intense as on the photos, but more intense than ACBB): http://i.imgur.com/c09I9fJ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/3Qs2kJD.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/TUd99uM.jpg?1 And here's the crazy levels of metallic sheen with a dip pen, basically the teal base gets completely covered up with the metallic burgundy (on Clairefontaine french ruled Triompe notebook paper): http://i.imgur.com/0fSWdJq.jpg http://i.imgur.com/R2OjUP1.jpg http://i.imgur.com/f9QNI63.jpg

I have recently acquired a Karas Kustoms Ink with a fine palladium nib. The pen writes great and the fine line is excellent, but it is very very wet. Since I bought this pen to use as a versatile everyday pen in the physics lab, school, for journaling and every other writing need you can imagine, I don't really have much control over the paper I will be using it on. Therefore I need to find a black ink that is both dry and adaptable. I have already tried Pelikan Brilliant Black in it, but it still bleeds through on a lot of different kinds of paper. NOW THE MOST IMPORTANT PART AND THE HEART OF THE QUESTION: I have considered using Noodler's Bulletproof Black but it seems very polarising. Lots of people praise it as their most used ink but I have also seen many say that it leaves a residue that is very hard to wash out and over the long run, ends up clogging their pens. So I want to know once and for all is Noodler's Bulletproof Black safe enough that if I use it in my pen and practice good pen hygiene (say wash it every three fill or every three weeks or something like that) will it leave any residue? If so, are there other alternatives that still fit the bill but are safer? Thank you all in advance

Just got back from the DC Pen Show. Several retailers had the latest Nooder's ink, House Divided. From his description, I was expecting a reddish blue ink that when washed leaves behind a permanent red line. I was able to sample the bottle at Luxury Brand's table. The ink is not what I was expecting. It is actually a dusty rose/burgundy color with barely a hint of blue in it. I came home and immediately loaded it into a Pilot Prera medium pen and did some testing. I also did a spill test during which I wrote on a piece of 28# paper, let it dry, and then poured tap water over it. After it dried, I scanned the image and it is included below. Observations: This is a very permanent ink! It is somewhere between Noodler's Empire Red and DeAtramentis Document Red, maybe with a hint of Kung Te cheng. The spill test and the water drop test barely washed anything away. Placing a couple drops on the Review Sheet and allowing them to dry without blotting caused a hint of blue coloring to flee to the water's edge, but barely a noticeable change. If you are looking for a permanent dusty rose ink, this is a good one to look at. Flow is excellent, no bleed through, and barely any show through. No feathering, but a bit of spread on the 28# copy paper. I tested it on Rhodia, and it behaved very well. Dry time is less than 1 second, even on the Rhodia! I bought my bottle from Federalist Pens at the show. At least one other retailer had the ink at the Show. I would guess it will be available on-line from the vendors who carry Noodler's.

Nathan Tardif sent out a news release about his latest ink named "House Divided". The description sounds like a semi-permanent purplish ink with a blue component that washes away leaving behind a permanent red line. His announcement indicates it will be available for the DC Pen Show. I plan to attend Saturday and will be looking for a bottle.

​​So, I ordered a sample of Noodler's 54th Massachusetts from Goulet Pens and loved it. Great color, well-behaved, quick drying, and waterproof to boot. When I bought the bottle, though, it has proven to be extremely wet and will spread and feather on almost every paper, including the Mnemosyne and Clairefontaine papers I use the most. I go through twice the ink that I used to with this. The distributor says that the latter performance is normal, and they found nothing wrong with the ink that they replaced for me. ​1. Has anyone noticed a change to this effect in this ink lately? 2. Which is normal, the sample or the bottle? ​3. Any tips to make this ink work? ​I really want this ink to work, but this just will not do it for me.

Hello everyone, my wife just mentioned she likes Noodler's Bad Belted Kingfisher especially because of the green in it. I like it especially because there is no green anywhere in my view. How do you think about it? Do you see any green in Bad Belted Kingfisher? Best, Toni

Got a sample of this along with all the other V-mails, because I'm really interested in the vintagey looks Nathan has made. Mandalay Maroon is a great color, and dark matter is my favorite black. This is a very flat green, quite similar to polar green (but without the heavy bulletproof/freezeproof properties, though it is better behaved and doesn't stink like the polars) very neutral as well. Saturated and pleasing to the eye, it's a very "standard" color. I think, as far as greens go, I prefer waterman Harmonious green, Diamine Sherwood green, etc. This one has no special sheen, no particularly great shading, no bulletproof or even real waterproofness. I do find it to be well behaved on poor quality paper, with a small amount of feathering on the wetter parts of the stroke. Overall, I'm kind of "meh" on GI Green. This is the first of my 13 bottles (and another 8 or 9 samples) that I genuinely wouldn't buy. Just noting interesting, but it is well behaved, so if the color works for you or you're REALLY into the notion of picking up a V-mail collection (which does have admittedly cool bottles) then there are definitely worse inks out there! Sorry there are a few smudges, water got on the table so my blotting got messy.

Hey everyone, I'm considering a Konrad, after using a Pilot metropolitan for about 2 years. My questions are, how much flex does it actually have and it is it suitable for someone who's a southpaw? Thanks, Rosendust

Two months ago I received my first bottle of Noodler’s Black “bulletproof” ink. The no nonsense bottle was filled to the brim, but from there my experiences with this ink were not trouble-free. I used the ink in two different pens I both deep cleaned before filling them up with Noodler’s Black: A traditional Indian jumbo sized ebonite eye dropper pen fitted with an Ambitious 40 mm long № 12 nib. A pen fitted with a German JoWo EF #6 nib unit and a Schmidt K5 converter. I found my bottle of Noodler’s Black to contain a black writing fluid that has a surface tension that causes it to stubbornly adhere or "stick" against the inside of the Schmidt K5 reservoir. For my contemporary German technology pen I used a common solution for this problem by adding a 2.5 mm diameter 316 stainless steel bearing ball, to mechanically promote free movement of the contained ink and ink/air exchange during writing. The solution for making the Indian eyedropper write without introducing the rattling sound of an ink agitator was not easy nor elegant. After the initial lines, just after priming the feed, the pen simply refused to write further. That unpleasantly surprised me, as paired with other “dry” inks this eyedropper always provided a generous ink flow. The pen has a traditional feed made of ebonite (hard rubber). Ebonite has good hydrophilic properties. This makes ink (and other watery substances) travel well through the ink channel in a fountain pen feed. The traditional 6.35 mm (¼ in) diameter feed is about 51 mm (2 in) long and features an ink channel that dwarfs the channels used in modern plastic feeds. These oversized ink channels are a remnant from a time when “dry” iron gall ink and ink thirsty flex nibs were in widespread use. I had to add 0.5 ml of a homemade dish washing soap solution (1 soap drop diluted in 100 ml of water) into the 4 ml ink reservoir to make the eyedropper write as it should. Adding such a surfactant solution will chemically promote free movement of the contained ink and ink/air exchange during writing. The ink is a saturated black and permanent. I was not able to remove it from paper, but after using it for two months on a daily basis I cannot regard my bottle of Noodler’s Black as an easy to use ink. As it comes from a small manufacturer maybe I received a bottle from a fluke batch.

The "Bad" series are Nathan Tardif's response to a challenge he had running - remove his bulletproof black from paper without destroying it, and win a prize. It took an MIT student and a laser, but it was done. So the new inks, dubbed "bad" are now laser proof, as well as bulletproof (waterproof, bleach/ammonia proof, archival) It's also just a great, well behaved ink. The flow is excellent, the color is deeply saturated, there's very little shading, no sheen, very little feathering in a very wet F on the worst copy paper I have ever seen, almost no bleedthrough on said paper, and little to no showthrough. Dry times are instant on copy paper, average to quick on Rhodia. Like almost all Noodlers inks, no sheen or special color effects on good paper. The only downside (and this simply is unavoidable) is that on Rhodia, water will lift a little bit of the surface ink off, causing mild smearing, though the original lines where pen touched paper are still perfectly legible. On copy paper, almost nothing happens. Are there snazzier blue-blacks with sheen and shading and all that jazz? Sure. But they won't outlast your grandchildren! When you need a professional colored ink that stands out just enough on documents as to indicate an original signature without bleeding or feathering like mad on whatever paper it's on (provided you use an F or EF nib) this blue-black has you covered. I've got an M nib coming in the mail so I can run the gamut of "everyday" nibs that you could use. The lamy EF-B are all quite wet, so look at the 1.1 for what a dry nib would look like.