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  1. thewiccaman

    Noodler's Ahab Flex Pen

    I received my Noodler's Flex pen in Apache Tortoise the other day from Pure Pens. Not had a flex pen before and wasn't sure quite what to expect. I'd read here and elsewhere varying opinions of these, some good, some bad - smelly! Though mine actually smells quite pleasant, a rather sweet, heady smell. And mine came with a spare non-flex nib as well. My other concern was the setup as after buying first then reading about them in more depth, they seemed to be problematic to get going with and I was concerned I had wasted my money. I did have a few issues as I have noted in my review but generally it writes well. There is a good setup tutorial here on FPN I found: Noodler's Ahab Beginner Guide and Goulet Pens has some really helpful videos as well. As my written review says - apologies for the awful writing my excuse being it is a flex pen ... - it is quite a different experience writing with it compared to FPs I am used to - Parkers, Lamy, various Chinese pens, etc - and I wasn't sure what to expect or if my experiences are similar to other users, I'd be interested to know what other people's experiences are.
  2. I'd like to do some comparative reviews of a few dark turquoise/teal/green-black inks and will start with this super-long name ink: Organics Studio's "Masters of Writing" series Volume No. 14 Henry David Thoreau "Walden Pond Blue" (Handmade in Maryland) http://i.imgur.com/uZHMquL.jpg?1 The ink comes in a 55ml plastic bottle, labeled simply "Walden" and appears to be highly saturated. I've seen sample reviews of this ink showing a high amount of sheen, and I can confirm it is indeed the case, though of course the sheen level depends on how much ink your pen puts down. For high flow feed/wet nibs, and especially for dip pens, this ink is an absolute sheen monster! The sheen is of very metallic burgundy/magenta color, quite nice. Shading is low to moderate, depending on pen and paper. Lubrication is at least moderate. For my review I chose my favorite paper to show off inks: Fabriano's EcoQua dot notebook made with Bioprima 85g/m2 paper. It is a bit toothier than Rhodia or the glass-smooth Clairefontaine, and is a nice pale ivory color. It also shows off color and ink saturation well, compared to my Clairefontaine paper, which makes even saturated inks look more pale and anemic (you can probably tell I'm not a fan of that paper). Unlike some of my more watery inks, I was able to use this ink with a dip pen without having to re-dip after every few letters. It seems to be more viscous/coating in that regard. This could be a great ink for ornate writing with a dip pen, if lots of metallic sheen is desired. Here is a [slightly overexposed] scan, though also see photographs that follow, the paper is actually a cream color, not white: http://i.imgur.com/Of2QhWf.jpg?1 The water test was done with a single droplet of water from the tap (more toward the left) followed by more droplets on the right side of the grid, after the ink had about 3 minutes to dry. I think it's fairly water-resistant in that the color washes away, but the lines are still visible. Because it is so saturated, it takes a while to dry, depending on your pen. I used a Lamy Safari with 1.1 italic nib for dry time testing. In the scan above, I also wrote with Noodler's Aircorp Blue Black, which is VERY close in color to this ink but completely lacks sheen. Other differences between the two are: - Noodler's ACBB is a tad less vivid teal and a shade more subdued. It also seems to be just a bit darker. I would say that ACBB is the closest match for the Lamy Safari "Petrol" pen barrel in person, followed by this Walden Pond Blue. I have also made some test writing samples for color fastness comparisons, which I will add to this review at a later date. Eventually, beside Noodler's Aircorp Blue Black, I plan to compare this ink to Sailor's Jentle Yama-Dori, Robert Oster "Tranquility", Robert Oster "Fire & Ice", Robert Oster "Aqua", and J. Herbin's "Emerald of Chivor", samples of which are on the way to me as I type this review. Photographs that show the colors and the sheen (very difficult to show correctly, but it's a greenish teal, not quite as intense as on the photos, but more intense than ACBB): http://i.imgur.com/c09I9fJ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/3Qs2kJD.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/TUd99uM.jpg?1 And here's the crazy levels of metallic sheen with a dip pen, basically the teal base gets completely covered up with the metallic burgundy (on Clairefontaine french ruled Triompe notebook paper): http://i.imgur.com/0fSWdJq.jpg http://i.imgur.com/R2OjUP1.jpg http://i.imgur.com/f9QNI63.jpg
  3. I have recently acquired a Karas Kustoms Ink with a fine palladium nib. The pen writes great and the fine line is excellent, but it is very very wet. Since I bought this pen to use as a versatile everyday pen in the physics lab, school, for journaling and every other writing need you can imagine, I don't really have much control over the paper I will be using it on. Therefore I need to find a black ink that is both dry and adaptable. I have already tried Pelikan Brilliant Black in it, but it still bleeds through on a lot of different kinds of paper. NOW THE MOST IMPORTANT PART AND THE HEART OF THE QUESTION: I have considered using Noodler's Bulletproof Black but it seems very polarising. Lots of people praise it as their most used ink but I have also seen many say that it leaves a residue that is very hard to wash out and over the long run, ends up clogging their pens. So I want to know once and for all is Noodler's Bulletproof Black safe enough that if I use it in my pen and practice good pen hygiene (say wash it every three fill or every three weeks or something like that) will it leave any residue? If so, are there other alternatives that still fit the bill but are safer? Thank you all in advance
  4. cjr

    Noodler's House Divided

    Just got back from the DC Pen Show. Several retailers had the latest Nooder's ink, House Divided. From his description, I was expecting a reddish blue ink that when washed leaves behind a permanent red line. I was able to sample the bottle at Luxury Brand's table. The ink is not what I was expecting. It is actually a dusty rose/burgundy color with barely a hint of blue in it. I came home and immediately loaded it into a Pilot Prera medium pen and did some testing. I also did a spill test during which I wrote on a piece of 28# paper, let it dry, and then poured tap water over it. After it dried, I scanned the image and it is included below. Observations: This is a very permanent ink! It is somewhere between Noodler's Empire Red and DeAtramentis Document Red, maybe with a hint of Kung Te cheng. The spill test and the water drop test barely washed anything away. Placing a couple drops on the Review Sheet and allowing them to dry without blotting caused a hint of blue coloring to flee to the water's edge, but barely a noticeable change. If you are looking for a permanent dusty rose ink, this is a good one to look at. Flow is excellent, no bleed through, and barely any show through. No feathering, but a bit of spread on the 28# copy paper. I tested it on Rhodia, and it behaved very well. Dry time is less than 1 second, even on the Rhodia! I bought my bottle from Federalist Pens at the show. At least one other retailer had the ink at the Show. I would guess it will be available on-line from the vendors who carry Noodler's.
  5. Nathan Tardif sent out a news release about his latest ink named "House Divided". The description sounds like a semi-permanent purplish ink with a blue component that washes away leaving behind a permanent red line. His announcement indicates it will be available for the DC Pen Show. I plan to attend Saturday and will be looking for a bottle.
  6. Checklist

    Changes In 54Th Mass?

    ​​So, I ordered a sample of Noodler's 54th Massachusetts from Goulet Pens and loved it. Great color, well-behaved, quick drying, and waterproof to boot. When I bought the bottle, though, it has proven to be extremely wet and will spread and feather on almost every paper, including the Mnemosyne and Clairefontaine papers I use the most. I go through twice the ink that I used to with this. The distributor says that the latter performance is normal, and they found nothing wrong with the ink that they replaced for me. ​1. Has anyone noticed a change to this effect in this ink lately? 2. Which is normal, the sample or the bottle? ​3. Any tips to make this ink work? ​I really want this ink to work, but this just will not do it for me.
  7. Hello everyone, my wife just mentioned she likes Noodler's Bad Belted Kingfisher especially because of the green in it. I like it especially because there is no green anywhere in my view. How do you think about it? Do you see any green in Bad Belted Kingfisher? Best, Toni
  8. Honeybadgers

    Noodler's Gi Green (V-Mail Series)

    Got a sample of this along with all the other V-mails, because I'm really interested in the vintagey looks Nathan has made. Mandalay Maroon is a great color, and dark matter is my favorite black. This is a very flat green, quite similar to polar green (but without the heavy bulletproof/freezeproof properties, though it is better behaved and doesn't stink like the polars) very neutral as well. Saturated and pleasing to the eye, it's a very "standard" color. I think, as far as greens go, I prefer waterman Harmonious green, Diamine Sherwood green, etc. This one has no special sheen, no particularly great shading, no bulletproof or even real waterproofness. I do find it to be well behaved on poor quality paper, with a small amount of feathering on the wetter parts of the stroke. Overall, I'm kind of "meh" on GI Green. This is the first of my 13 bottles (and another 8 or 9 samples) that I genuinely wouldn't buy. Just noting interesting, but it is well behaved, so if the color works for you or you're REALLY into the notion of picking up a V-mail collection (which does have admittedly cool bottles) then there are definitely worse inks out there! Sorry there are a few smudges, water got on the table so my blotting got messy.
  9. Hey everyone, I'm considering a Konrad, after using a Pilot metropolitan for about 2 years. My questions are, how much flex does it actually have and it is it suitable for someone who's a southpaw? Thanks, Rosendust
  10. Two months ago I received my first bottle of Noodler’s Black “bulletproof” ink. The no nonsense bottle was filled to the brim, but from there my experiences with this ink were not trouble-free. I used the ink in two different pens I both deep cleaned before filling them up with Noodler’s Black: A traditional Indian jumbo sized ebonite eye dropper pen fitted with an Ambitious 40 mm long № 12 nib. A pen fitted with a German JoWo EF #6 nib unit and a Schmidt K5 converter. I found my bottle of Noodler’s Black to contain a black writing fluid that has a surface tension that causes it to stubbornly adhere or "stick" against the inside of the Schmidt K5 reservoir. For my contemporary German technology pen I used a common solution for this problem by adding a 2.5 mm diameter 316 stainless steel bearing ball, to mechanically promote free movement of the contained ink and ink/air exchange during writing. The solution for making the Indian eyedropper write without introducing the rattling sound of an ink agitator was not easy nor elegant. After the initial lines, just after priming the feed, the pen simply refused to write further. That unpleasantly surprised me, as paired with other “dry” inks this eyedropper always provided a generous ink flow. The pen has a traditional feed made of ebonite (hard rubber). Ebonite has good hydrophilic properties. This makes ink (and other watery substances) travel well through the ink channel in a fountain pen feed. The traditional 6.35 mm (¼ in) diameter feed is about 51 mm (2 in) long and features an ink channel that dwarfs the channels used in modern plastic feeds. These oversized ink channels are a remnant from a time when “dry” iron gall ink and ink thirsty flex nibs were in widespread use. I had to add 0.5 ml of a homemade dish washing soap solution (1 soap drop diluted in 100 ml of water) into the 4 ml ink reservoir to make the eyedropper write as it should. Adding such a surfactant solution will chemically promote free movement of the contained ink and ink/air exchange during writing. The ink is a saturated black and permanent. I was not able to remove it from paper, but after using it for two months on a daily basis I cannot regard my bottle of Noodler’s Black as an easy to use ink. As it comes from a small manufacturer maybe I received a bottle from a fluke batch.
  11. Honeybadgers

    Noodlers Bad Belted Kingfisher

    The "Bad" series are Nathan Tardif's response to a challenge he had running - remove his bulletproof black from paper without destroying it, and win a prize. It took an MIT student and a laser, but it was done. So the new inks, dubbed "bad" are now laser proof, as well as bulletproof (waterproof, bleach/ammonia proof, archival) It's also just a great, well behaved ink. The flow is excellent, the color is deeply saturated, there's very little shading, no sheen, very little feathering in a very wet F on the worst copy paper I have ever seen, almost no bleedthrough on said paper, and little to no showthrough. Dry times are instant on copy paper, average to quick on Rhodia. Like almost all Noodlers inks, no sheen or special color effects on good paper. The only downside (and this simply is unavoidable) is that on Rhodia, water will lift a little bit of the surface ink off, causing mild smearing, though the original lines where pen touched paper are still perfectly legible. On copy paper, almost nothing happens. Are there snazzier blue-blacks with sheen and shading and all that jazz? Sure. But they won't outlast your grandchildren! When you need a professional colored ink that stands out just enough on documents as to indicate an original signature without bleeding or feathering like mad on whatever paper it's on (provided you use an F or EF nib) this blue-black has you covered. I've got an M nib coming in the mail so I can run the gamut of "everyday" nibs that you could use. The lamy EF-B are all quite wet, so look at the 1.1 for what a dry nib would look like.
  12. Has anyone had issues with Noodler's Black Swan in Australian Roses not shading? I recently purchased my first bottle and loaded it into a pen with Goulet stub nib that worked wonderfully with other shading inks, but Black Swan looks dull and flat with very little shading. It also feels dry coming out of the pen. Yes, I fully cleaned it before filling it. And yes I've tried it on quality paper, including Rhodia, Mnemosyne, Fabriano, Midori and HP Premium Laser - no distinct shading on any of them. I also dip tested with a bold nib and had the same result. Any thoughts?
  13. johnsi02

    Pilot Volex Question

    I've had a Volex for about a year, and it writes well. I also have a bottle of Noodler's Bad Blue Heron that I would like to use in this pen. I'm hesitant because it's a tough ink to get out. I've been using it for several years and learned how to clean it out of normal pens. It's the pens with unusual feed designs that can be a real problem (like that fiber wick feed in the Pilot Petit1). I've seen teardown instructions for a Pilot Elite. The Elite has a little sponge looking thing in it. That little sponge is why I don't run BBH through my Elite. It doesn't seem like it would ever all come out, and possibly permanently clog it. Because the Volex is the same manufacturer and era as the Elite, I'm concerned they might have similar designs. So here's the question. Does the Volex have a similar feed design or is it conventional? If it's conventional, I'm confident I can clean the pen sufficiently. If it's similar, I'll stick to the cartridges I've been using. Thanks for your input. JS
  14. Hi! I am relatively new to fountain pens and would like to try out a flex pen, without a huge investment. Initially, I added an Ahab to my wishlist, but the reviews make it seem a bit too finicky for my comfort level. Now, I'm considering buying a replacement Noodler's flex nib and putting it into some other pen. (the nibs come in #2 or #6). Are there any pens at $15 or less which would be good to frankenpen into a flex? Thanks!
  15. Hi all, I do a lot of creative writing/journaling and used to use those multi-colored gel pen packs until I switched to fountain pens (My EDC is a Safari EF). I am looking for suggestions of ink with the following properties: Not blue nor black. Easy on the eyes for long writing seasons. Behaves well with little feathering or bleed-through on mid-grade paper (i,e, better than a composition book, not as good as Rhodia). Inexpensive (Noodler's price range).One of the main draws to fountain pens is the ability to use interesting colors and switch them whenever I like, but the platinum violet hurts my eyes and J. Herbin Terre de Feu isn't artistic enough for me (though I do love the shading). I prefer rich colors to dusty/pastels. Thanks for your help!
  16. peyton braud

    Noodles X Feather

    can someone review the noodlers x feather before I buy? Thanks
  17. antichresis

    Kung Te-Cheng Pen Pairing

    I'm a fan of Noodler's Kung Te-Cheng. Great colour as it is or diluted and great performance on cheap paper. Gosh darn permanent too. I am, however, not blind to its mischievous character. I posted here before asking if anyone's tried it on a TWSBI. I ended up passing because I was (am still) thinking of selling the pen further down the road. I've used it on some pens with no problems. The nib dries up if you don't use it for a week, but a 10 second rinse under a tap and it's good to go. There are, of course, some pens where it doesn't work. It kept clogging my Metro and I unimaginatively used it on a 78G. Ink turned to sludge. What pens do you use with KTC?
  18. I really like music nibs. I have the Platinum 3776 Music Nib, the Pilot 742 Music Nib, Franklin Christoph Music Nib, the Ackerman Pump Pen Music Nib and the Noodler's Neponset Music Nib. But the thing I find odd about the Noodler's is that it isn't a stub like the rest. Sure, it has 3 tines, but it has no stub whatsoever. So my question is: has anyone tried to grind one of these into a stub? What were the results? Was it still flexible? I know that it's possible to by Nib Creeper and Ahab replacement nibs. But, to my knowledge, it is not yet possible to buy just the Neponset nib without the pen. So, this is a really risky project. Let me know if you guys have tried. Thanks.
  19. (( Please feel free to guide me to a different post if necessary, I'm an FPN forum newbie C': )) So here's my dilemma, I have no way of trying any of the aforementioned pens. So I hope based on my preferences you guys can guide me to what you think would be best for me. I currently own only two pens, a Lamy Safari and a Pilot Metropolitan. I love how lightweight the lamy is, but definitely prefer that gelpen-like feel the metropolitan provides as well as the size, the lamy sometimes feels like a large pen in my hand regardless of the weight, and took a bit of getting used to. I use both pens for writing, however, have decided to add a third one for sketching, and sometimes doing the lineart on my drawings. I should mention now that I do not get along with dip pens, I tried them and hate the scratchiness and the constant dipping on the ink bottle (also having to travel with an ink bottle). This is why I'm resorting to fountain pens, I love writing with them, and that super smooth feel. Which brings me to what I think are my affordable options in that regard. Noddler's Nib Creaper Noodler's Konrad Noodler's Ahab Twisby Eco I'm mostly considering Noodler's because of the flex nibs that would help me provide a bit of line weight to my drawings. However, the Eco with a fine nib, would give me a have large ink capacity and I know will work right out of the box, unlike Noodler's which I've read can have some issues :/. Also consider that I would mostly be using permanent inks on these, do any of these pens work better or are known to have issues with permanent inks? I'm really confused as to what to choose, I've been taking pens in and out of my cart for a week. Mostly because regardless of my choice, for now I can only afford one. Or do you have any other recommendations around that price range? Thanks for reading through all of that! I hope you can help me!
  20. Zeeppo

    Charlie Nib

    Can anyone tell me what kind of nib comes on a Charlie pen from Noodler's???
  21. All of these railroad/dry sections aren't there with a better ink (I am trying to get rid of the remainder of a visconti green ink sample I got to try with my divina metropolitan. I hate this stuff, it writes horribly. Waterman green and robert oster peppermint are far superior performers.) Also lease excuse my fast, nasty chickenscratch writing sample. If you want to write bigger (to the absolute max flex) and faster, simply put a piece of scotch tape over the nib and trim it to fit, and it'll overfeed the thing into low earth orbit. Completely unmodified ranga feed. Even a chewed out noodlers feed simply doesn't flow this nicely. When I bought a ranga 3c from Mr. Ranga on ebay, I got a spare feed with the pen for free, so that was awesome! Essentially this does cost about $60 total, because you need to buy a konrad, a box of zebra comic G nibs, and a ranga pen of some sort, but you do get two pens out of it (and the ranga pens are really fun on their own) The feed does extend a hair into the ink chamber of the noodlers konrad, but that may actually be why this thing just flows so well. It only loses maybe 5% of its ink capacity and nothing is harmed in the filling. It does fit with the konrad inner cap, but I use this thing so often that I don't need it, and I hated the ink behind the cap, so I removed it. No drying out issues when used daily. The only thing that you have to "modify" is very, very easily done with lots of room for error. Take a pair of wide pliers (not needlenose, wide enough to fit the whole base of the nib in the flat of the plier) and squeeze just hard enough until you feel it "give". A little more than that is just fine, but I find that as soon as I feel it "smoosh" the back of the nib the barest amount, it fits happily. While it is possible to simply jam the two in together, it makes fitment way more obnoxious and you actually save a lot of effort doing it this way. Then line it all up as normal, I find it's easiest to insert by lining the nib and feed up with the gap of the nib lined up with the third slot on the feed, insert it until the nib bottoms out in the slot, and then gently slide the feed down until the first or second (really makes no difference) fin lines up with the slot on the nib. I really quite like this nib, even for everyday writing. It lays down a lot of ink, so you can't really flex it wide if you need to change pages quickly, and some inks like noodlers golden brown can take TWENTY minutes to dry. Personally, I find the sailor jentle inks (souten, oku-yama, and yama-dori are my favorite) to have incredibly quick dry times along with a heavy amount of sheen that this pen REALLY showcases. Line variation is insane, needlepoint (0.1) to 3mm, no risk of springing it unless you're literally trying to fold the nib in half, you get a box of 10 nibs for $10 so there's plenty of room for mistakes. It's also great for sketching and drawing. People say the nibs can rust. I have done that once, and it was only because I cleaned the pen and put it away without completely drying the nib and feed. With ink, I honestly haven't seen the nib rust yet, and the one in there has been daily writing for three months without a spot of rust. With the noodlers feed, I've heard a lot of people having flow troubles, having to widen the channel and risk ruining the feed, needing to prime it regularly (I never have to prime this one, though when I used the nib in a jinhao x750 I did need to prime it every half page or so) Also, one thing I haven't tried, but would suggest for that extra insurance against corrosion, is to just drop the money on the somewhat more expensive coated zebra comic G nibs. They do last longer in dip nibs, but I didn't have any to try in this application. I take this pen with me wherever I go, it's an incredibly fun pen to scrawl with, puts fun, pretty headers on pages at the beginning of class or new chapters in my notes, and has never failed to perform. Again, in this writing sample, disregard the railroading and dry spots, Visconti green is absolutely the wrong ink for this application. (also don't even think about trying noodlers polar colors, they will eat right through the paper with how heavy this pen lays it down!) http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/20170423_183418_zpsxbrkzi5f.jpg http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/20170423_185242_zpsaez4pte9.jpg http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/20170423_183509_zps2ft5tjrq.jpg http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/20170423_183434_zpsdqum7ato.jpg
  22. Hey, I really hate to open another topic on Baystate Blue. But I really don't know how to find ALL the BSB threads that are available, and check whether this has already been comented on (For what is worth, I have searched as best I could via Google, here and elsewhere, but I couldn't find an appropriate thread about this). So then, I thought I might ask everybody a question: Does YOUR (sample of) Baystate Blue turn purple on plain, white, copy paper (80-90 gsm), and predominantly on such paper? I don't mean a hint or a tinge of purple - rather bright, saturated, vibrant ... purple. To put a bit more context into it, I must say I just received my 3 oz. bottle of THE ink (ordered on Amazon, shipped by the manufacturer) a few days ago. I made sure to clean the pen extra well (flushed until water ran clear, THEN flushed with minor concentration dish-soap solution and left it in for 24hrs., THEN flushed until water ran clear of bubbles, and left another 24 hrs. with clean water in it, AND finally flushed dry, and left another 24hrs. to ... well, dry out, with nib resting on absorbent tissue paper - so, I guess the pen was .. clean), then loaded it with THE stuff. In case anybody is wondering, the pen is a black HERO 616 mini version with an M nib - I had well researched this ink beforehand (but apparently, still not well enough), so I knew well enough to choose a cheap pen. So far (3 days after) the pen behaves perfectly (with no melted plastic/feeder, or flow modification; it actually behaves better than with Diamine Blue Velvet in it; I do expect the rubber sac of the aerometric filler to be stained, but I couldn't care less; we'll see about the rest). And then I tried it on for size. First, on a glossy paper notebook - white (don't know what paper the supplier used, because the notebook is internal stationery at the HR firm I work at). And it came out ... purple. I felt my throat going dry. Secondly, on plain/cheap A4, 75gsm, ECF (Elementary Chlorine Free), Unpunched, Ecolabel copy paper - obviously, white (generic brand, nothing to do with printer manufacturers). And it came out ... purple. I was gutted. Not far from crying (not really, but still...), considering how many inconvenient properties and risks I am ready to put up with, just for this color. As in this BLUE color, not purple color! Then I needed to scribble something really quick, and the first paper that came to hand was the back of a store receipt (so thin, thermal paper, I would say, and also white), and the closest instrument at hand was the BSB pen. And what do you know - it came out as the perfect, pure, intense and bright cobalt blue I had thought I was buying. Exactly that! Amazed at my discovery, I started scribbling "Test Color" on every paper I had at hand - which means that now I have quite a few books and book covers scribbled on their last page in BSB. And the color stayed blue (albeit with some hints of purple in some cases, but which are BARELY discernible). Also, I checked ALL my results the following day, in plain daylight (on a beautiful sunny day, around noon). And they were unchanged: my (sample of) ink is purple on some papers, and the proper blue on others. And some papers are white, others are cream, and others plain yellow. Thus, it seems that my BSB reacts with the paper and changes hue, for I can think of no other explanations. Now, I know what many will say: Rhodia, Clairefontaine, Tomoe River, etc. And that's all fine - to each his own, but I am not really a fountain pen afficionado, nor do I plan on becoming one (I have only 3 inks, and ... let's see, erm... 7 fountain pens, and I really want to stay at this level). I really place practicality above tastes, and I consider it dandy enough to be using a fountain pen (in spite of the extinct-species/wolly-mammoth looks I get from some...), that I most certainly won't carry Tomoe River pads with me to the meeting room. Nothing wrong with those that will, as I was saying above. My point, however, to anybody reading this, is that performance on plain copy paper is THE deal breaker for ME, as I won't change paper except entirely accidentally. So it doesn't really help me to know how the ink performs on those FP dedicated papers (actually, I already do considering how much research I put into this color), and/or that I should change stationery. And the color is the deal-breaker part of the performance - as I was saying previously, I will put up with many things, but not with a different hue/color, because that makes it a different ink, actually. I have also read about reports that Noodler's inks have some relatively looser Q.C.s (i.e.quality controls), in that performance can vary from one batch to the another, within the same product line (for instance, different batches of BSB might behave differently). So then, I am well aware this could be a batch-related rather than a product-related problem. Being thus aware if that as well, I dare (after a mammoth post) phrase my question anew: Does YOUR (sample of) Baystate Blue turn purple on plain, white, copy paper (80-90 gsm), and predominantly on such paper? N.B.: for those who don't know/don't remember, would you be so kind as to test it a bit on some copy paper, if possible? I know it doesn't really do much for you, but I would really appreciate it, and it would mean A LOT to me to know whether I could still like this ink (that otherwise, I have to confess it, I would love in spite of all its other shortcomings... eh, true love i guess they call it, lol)
  23. Laying in bed, procrastinating, knowing I ought to be putting my pens and paper into boxes to be packed up for the new house, instead I chose to write out the attached review of the Noodler's Konrad Ebonite flex fountain pen. This is my first review so please be gentle. And remember, my handwriting is lousy but particularly so today because the paper's balanced on my knee, as I'm writing in bed. Having had and lost a couple of fountain pens a couple decades ago, my collection really started with this pen. Aside from a couple of inexpensive Jinhao pens, I didn't have any fountain pens until this Noodler's Konrad. And not knocking the Jinhaos, this was the first pen I bought with the intention of holding onto it, using it, and eventually passing it along to one of my children one day. A very, very long time from now. The ebonite Konrad, in my mind, is refined, elegant, with a restricted, pulled-in beauty. It's not glittery nor dazzling, it's completely unflamboyant, yet entirely gorgeous to me. The Dixie #10 Jade has a medium to dark green- about a Sherwood green, and black ebonite swirled together in a pretty rippled pattern on the barrel. It's got a black blind cap and black section. The section sits about 3/4 cm below the barrel, between which, a clear acrylic window sits, with which one can view the ink swishing around inside the pen. When one has shimmery gold particles swirling about amidst the ink, each time one catches a glimpse of the sparkle, it's a little bit of a day brightener. Even without the glitter, seeing ink ebb and flow across the window is an awesome sight. I guess that's why I like demonstrators so much. That's just not something normal people see everyday - inky pools rollicking about inside their pens. Unless one happens to be a member of The Fountain Pen Network, of course. The black ebonite cap has a silver clip with a little teardrop shaped ball on the end, kinda like if you took the quintessential Parker ball and smooshed it with your finger a little. It's proportioned nicely against the cap and the bottom silver cap ring. Under the blind cap is the knob you twist to fill the pen. Directly below the knob, flush against the distal end of the barrel, is the part where the piston unscrews from the rest of the pen. In theory, the pen can be taken apart and the inner workings of the piston given a full cleaning and lubricating if necessary. (I swear! I've seen it on YouTube so it must be true) But I have not been able to remove it, and am not interested enough to risk scratching my pen to try using more force than just my fingers. Perhaps one day, I'll grab a pair of section pliers from the spark plug aisle of the auto repair store, and give it a go. But cleaning the pen by removing the nib and feed has worked plenty well for me thusfar. And being able to remove the nib and feed is the best thing about the Noodler's Konrad. I am a tinkerer by nature and truly appreciate that Nathan Tardiff, the sole proprietor of Noodler's Inks (and pens) has released this pen with that in mind. The feed, being made of ebonite, can be carved for greater ink flow, heat set against the nib, for optimal flow, and replacement feeds can be easily and inexpensively purchased. The nib is a #6 size, which is also #35 by some manufacturer's nib sizing code, which means there's a plethora of other manufacturer's nibs available for experimenting. So far, I have only put in a dip pen nib, as that's actually what had drawn me back to fountain pens this time around, and it fits a Zebra G nib nicely, and because the feeds are available, I have a dedicated feed for when the pointed pen flex nib is installed, and for most other times, I have the regular #6 nib and regular feed in it. Since the section is also made of ebonite, that can be heated to really tighten down the nib and feed if necessary, but I'd say that's something for more advanced users, unlike playing around with carving the feed- anybody with the will to do it, can do. The only reason being is that replacement feeds are readily available. If the section gets really screwed up, well, that pen owner is also screwed. Speaking of being screwed, the price point does not screw you. It's a fantastic price, especially for a piston fill, especially for an ebonite piston fill. Did I miss anything? It's getting late and I should go pack at least 1 box up before getting up to start my day in ummmm, 2 hours. This accounts for the gradual drop in writing quality in this review, mind. Oh yes, the Konrad Ebonite fountain pen is 140mm capped, about 160mm posted and weighs a total of 18gm with the cap on and about 1/3 filled with ink. The paper used in the review is my favorite, Tomoe River 54gsm, and the wonderful ink is DeAtrementis Pearlescent in Heliogen Green with Gold sparkly bits. In my written review, I flexed the bleep out of the pen so the ink would really gush out for you guys. And in hindsight, I probably should have written in larger letters for that because the broad letters are terrible to read at that size. My apologies, but I did warn you, this is my first review. The second half of the review, I wrote more like I normally do, and the writing is a little bit more legible, if not very pretty. My new year's resolution this year is to improve my handwriting, and god willing, let us hope i don't have to make that same resolution next year, although at this rate, i may have to. Editorializing aside, i think I'm done. And I'll sign off with something I've been telling myself and rarely ever heed (do as i say, not as i do, hmm? Alrighty) ciao Choose your words wisely, because they are powerful and your word matters. EagleLobes Edited for ease of reading and some grammarly stuff
  24. visvamitra

    Noodler's Bernanke Blue

    Noodler’s is one of the companies that don’t need any introductions. Nathan Tardiff is a legend and his work is well known by fountain pen and ink afficionados. Not everyone is crazy about Noodler’s inks but I enjoy most of the ones I’ve tried so far. Bernanke Blue is famous for it's almost instant drying time. This feature makes this ink valid choice for left-handed writers. Sadly this ink has a lot of drawbacks. It feathers like crazy on cheaper papers. It causes strong bleedthrough. After some time spent in a pen it may clog it. Yes it can dry in two seconds, but frankly, it's not enough to cover styrong misbehaviour on cheaper papers. This simply isn't a good ink. I would never buy a bottle of this stuff. Thank you Fabri00 for sending me the sample. Drops of ink on kitchen towel Color ID Color range Maruman, Kaweco Classic Sport, broad nib Leuchtturm1917, Kaweco Classic Sport, broad nib Oxford Optic, Kaweco Classic Sport, broad nib
  25. I have a slight pink problem. I have little girls, let's blame it on them. This ink performed really well. It dries really fast, is super saturated, and is surprisingly water resistant for a red. Also, it is seriously solid - really no feathering to speak of even on really poor copy paper. It's in my oldest's Pilot Kaküno so I snagged it for my second ever review - be gentle. First image is a scan, second two are iPhone photos of samples on Rhodia and (bleep) copy paper. http://images4-b.ravelrycache.com/uploads/MrsDrG/440308846/_medium2.jpeg

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