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  1. El Lawrence I really enjoyed this ink. It has slightly drier flow compared to the many other Noodler’s inks, I have tried. It dries almost instantaneously. I had it for a long while in my fountain pen and never had any problems writing. It is closest to Burma Road Brown and darker than R& K Emma. Burma Road Brown is partially waterproof. Afterthought: Besides being everything proof, this ink is also fluorescent. · Pens used: Ef Chinese pen, , Noodler’s nib creaper, · Shading: Definitely subtle… · Ghosting: None on Rhodia. · Bleed through: None · Flow Rate: On the drier side for a Noodler. · Lubrication: Good · Nib Dry-out: Nope. · Start-up: No problem. · Saturation: Yes · Shading Potential: Maybe with Ahab · Sheen: No · Spread / Feathering / Woolly Line: None · Nib Creep / “Crud”: Don’t recall · Staining (pen): Nope. Easy to clean… · Clogging: Nope · Water resistance: Archival….. · Availability: Only in bottle. On Rhodia dot pad Back Swatches I hope you don’t mind a touch of whimsy in form of an article 200 years from now: Martian Archeologist on a survey mission to Earth have found one of the most exciting finds of the decade, a document, believing to belong to the famed British explorer Lawrence of Arabia, thanks to an UV sweep. The document managed to survive the climate catastrophe of 2080. Ten years later the chief xeno-archaeologist of Europa colony, has concluded that the Notebook could not have belonged to the famed Lawrence and has tentatively carbon dated it to the early 21st century, to an unknown scribe. Searchers on Alpha Centauri have concluded that the following text belonged to a marginal sect thriving in early 21st century, the fountain pen worshippers. It is not clear what the purpose of this group has been. Much research has to be done now, as numerous other documents of this sort have been found.
  2. I wonder if anybody could share a writing sample of Noodler's Baltimore Canyon Blue Ink and some experience (such as behaviour, cleaning etc.), comparisons, whatever actually? It is relatively new and there is only a couple of samples online (and they differ quite a lot). However the ink looks really nice from what I have seen. Also what is a bit weird... while most retailers accent there might be some sheen, almost every retailer also states it is not meant to be water-proof at all (but may have some water resistance eventually)... while Noodler's website says "water proof, archival, permanent". Thank you all!
  3. PithyProlix

    How To Contact Noodler's, Please?

    I tried sending a message through the contact form on their website almost 2 weeks ago and again 2 days ago. No reply, just automated emails after completing the contact form. I also sent a Facebook message almost 2 weeks ago. Any ideas, please?
  4. ssataline

    In Search Of Holy Grail Greens!

    I've got a couple of Rangas and a very tightly-tined nib on a TWSBI that I like to fill with wow greens. I am searching for wet, lubricating inks that will help these pens flow. I like saturated colors, maybe some shade and sheen, and even some water resistance. Noodler's Eel Gruene has been my go to, but I'm not nuts about the color. (I prefer bright greens, nothing Army shaded with grays and blacks.) I've tried Diamine Woodland, KWZ Emerald. What else does the world offer? Unlike Veruca Salt, whose image I'm not allowed to post, I won't scream if I don't get it, but I will keep looking!
  5. I think this is a "service" question, but if this is the wrong forum, I'm sure someone will tell me. ;-) I have a Noodler's Nib Creeper (among the first couple of production runs of it, I think) flex nib pen, which exclusively uses Bay State Blue. I am aware of all standard caveats about BSB. This pen writes SUPER dry. Just blotchy ink flow. Even after cleaning (standard soap to water, as well as some bleach and water, since that's a recommended approach for this ink). I've even take a little bit of light brushing to the ebonite feeder, and a bit of careful specific attention to the center feeder channel. On occasion, after a cleaning, the flow will be pretty good (not great), but if I don't use the pen for a few days (say 5-30), we go back to bad flow. Most reviews I have read of the ink indicate it is pretty wet in general, so this is all rather confusing/frustrating to have a dry writer with BSB. Especially with Noodler's own pen. What can I do? What am I missing? (I'd buy a new pen to test, but the ones that won't show BSB staining [dark blues] are sold out at my preferred retailer.) TIA!
  6. I have way too many pens and inks, and I am trying to simplify. So I am offering 4 bundles of bottled inks. Unless indicated, bottles are 90% full or more. (some have had only a fill or two out of them). All bottles have been purchased within the last 12 months - most of them during COVID era. All of these inks are terrific and will make you happy. The rules are simple: First come, first served. State your selection in a thread reply, so everyone knows what's been taken.Send me a PM so we can work out shipping. Shipped free to CONUS. Outside of CONUS, you'll just pay the USPS shipping rates. Noodler's Lot (3 Bottles): American Eel Black (~ 70% full)Red Rattler American EelAir Corps Blue Black Waterman Lot (3 bottles) Mysterious BlueAudacious RedSerenity Blue (~40-50% full) Parker Quink Lot (3 Bottles - all ~ 70% full) BlackWashable BlueBlue Black Mixed Lot (3 Bottles) Noodler's BurgundyPrivate Reserve Sherwood Green Fast DryAurora Blue
  7. yazeh

    Noodler's Polar Green....

    Noodler’s Polar Green This is my 2nd Polar ink. I have the Polar Brown already and I’ve just filled a pen with Polar Blue. The inks are not at all similar. Polar Blue is the wettest. I’ve read that the Polar series could be mixed to create a variety of colours, which is fun. Green is not my favorite color, especially dark green. However, when I saw swabs of this ink, I knew I would get it. I got a sample just in case and the moment I filled a pen I knew it was my type of ink. Who is this ink for: For those who like bulletproof inks and can accommodate the ink’s idiosyncrasies and appreciate woolly lines (I do), and live in North America. I honestly don’t think it’s worth the shipping cost for overseas. I’m sure there are other alternatives available. Note the woolly line effect happens with a wet, flexed Kanwrite. When wet, the ink is Emerald Green, then dries to dark green, think boreal forest to sage, depending paper. This ink is paper/pen specific. Personally, I really like it with a Kanwrite ultra flex on Midori. I find the combination gives a vintage look. It’s a sage color on Tomoe River but one would need a blotter/copy paper underneath the page as the ink would bleed through several pages. It’s a bulletproof ink, with all it entails. The flow is not as wet 54 Massachusetts or Polar Blue…., I would say viscous, it reminds me of Kung Te-Cheng in this regard. People often say that it feathers badly. I’ve been writing pages with it, with different nibs and to be honest, I like the effect. See for yourself....I would not use it on copy paper... • Pens used: Kanwrite ultra flex – Jinhao 450 – Pilot Metro Fine – Nameless Kaweco type EF fountain pen… Note for testing the ink I filled the Pilot Metropolitan with the ink and left it for a couple of weeks to check if it would dry up. It didn’t. Longer periods might need some coaxing. Note the Pilot Fine nib seems finer than the Chinese • Shading: A bit only with flex nib on TR • Ghosting: Depending nib/ flow combination • Dry time: 2 seconds on Rhodia....Longest on TR • Bleed through: As above. • Flow Rate: Decent. It was least agreeable with a Chinese Kaweco style with an Ef nib….though after a second filling it wrote noticeably better. I won’t recommend it for dry writers…but flow is not wet, nor dry, I would say in between. I would say, when you start writing it might be a shy, but then it flows. • Lubrication: Average. • Nib Dry-out: It can happen…. • Start-up: Almost immediate. I noticed some skipping with EF nib. • Saturation: saturated • Shading Potential: Vaguely on TR • Sheen: Nope…t • Show-Through: With flex nib and fine wet nibs. • Spread / Feathering / Woolly Line: On Midori with flex…gives a vintage look…I like it. • Nib Creep / “Crud”: Yes on all nibs… you’ll have a green patina on all your nibs. • Staining (pen): Don’t know yet • Staining (hands): Easy to wash. • Clogging: Nope • Water resistance: Bullet proof. • Availability: Only in bottle. Note on some scans I've written the type of paper with a greenish ink. It's General of the Armies.... I didn't add a swab as would time, it would revert to blue Swab comparison On Amazon copy paper Mnemosyne Midori Tomoe River Tomoe River 68 gr Full page Rhodia Rhodia Please feel free adding your scans, impression.... The more the merrier.....
  8. I like my Noodler's Charlie when it actually writes, but I find that it dries out every day between the end of my work day and the next. I either have to run it under some water or dip it in the ink to get it to flow. I'm currently using it with Heart of Darkness. I know this has been discussed before, but short of taking everything apart, does anyone have any surefire tips to get it to stop drying out overnight? I store it nib down.
  9. yazeh

    Noodler's Blue Nose Bear

    I really had to control myself not to buy a whole bottle of ink without trying a sample, despite the negative reviews. I’m sorry I didn’t. Noodler’s Blue Nose Bear was named after the famed Nova Scotian schooner, Bluenose and in homage to the Winnipeg bear, who inspired Winnie the Pooh. As a lefty underwriter, most important to me are water resistance and acceptable dry times and smooth writing. Shading is a plus. Most reviews have stated this ink feathers on most papers, bleeds through etc. I find that this while true not always valid. For example, flexed Ahab on Rhodia is awful, however endearing on Clairefontaine. It also ghosts and it could bleed have minimal bleed through with a very wet nib. With a wet Medium Jinhao it has lovely feathering. Yes, you read correctly the feathering is actually quite nice. To my surprise with a fude nib, it did not feather and shaded delightfully…… It is partially waterproof, and a greyish line would remain after extended water submersion. The ink is also fluorescent It seems that I don’t like “perfect” inks but inks that have imperfect perfection…. Rhodia dot pad - Front - In retrospect I was hasty in my handwritten review, condemning it. The feathering happens when there is an excess gushing with a flexed Ahab. Other than that it's minimal. Bleed through and ghosting are acceptable to me... Rhodia dot pad - back Tomoe River - Front Tomoe River - Back Comparaison Fude nib Ahab - Flex - closeup Some nice feathering on ClarieFontaine Florescence And finally an Ahab vs PensBBS fine nib comparison And water resistance after 18 hours under rain, sleet and snow...
  10. This is the second brown ink I am reviewing together with the Vaikhari - it is a nice medium brown from Noodler's - called Kiowa Pecan. I haven't had much good luck with Noodler's inks - for one reason or the other, most of them havent worked well for me. This one though, is probably the Noodler's that I like the most and gives me least trouble. In comparison with Vaikhari and Iro Yama Guri. N-KP is lighter than both , though some shades are very similar to Vaikhari - However, the Vaikhari has auburn/ burnt sienna tinges on the lighter shades and Kiowa Pecan's lighter notes tend toward golden browns. Dry times are on the longer side; about 30 secs on these scrubbies with a Bock F nib. But real life writing seems to dry much faster. Overall: I really like the color and how the ink behaves with most papers. the shading is beautiful, encompassing a wide variety of browns. This is a great ink from Noodler's.
  11. Since I do not own too many green inks, I cannot show very similar inks to compare. Instead I thought it would be useful to show where it lies in the spectrum between yellow/brown leaning greens like Krishna Ghat-green/ Sailor Tokiwa-Matsu and a teal leaning green like Diamine Aurora Borealis... Overall, I'd say its a pleasant color though not a very uncommon one - nothing screams out as unique or special about the colour or the ink's abilities but it is a nice pleasant green if you want only one green ink, and being Noodler's it is pretty inexpensive. Shame about the feathering though, this is not an ink which you'd pick if you write often on absorbent or average to cheap paper. Even when it doesn't quite feather, it spreads quite bit on absorbent paper. As my pic below shows - the line width of this ink coming out of my PenBBS mini-fude F is wider than even my medium Jowo, Bock or Montegrappa nibs (generally I find the mini fude to write slightly broader than a western fine on down strokes and like a western fine on side strokes). Note that probably 90% of my inks do not feather or spread on this Muji copy paper. Another picture of the feathering on cheap copy paper Note: the color variation in the 'whites' of the papers is native to the papers. I set white balance on a white card and then didn't edit for each picture - but some casts cannot be ruled out.
  12. I work in a regulatory chemistry lab so having basically everything resistant ink is a must for archival & forgery purposes. Where I'm at we're under EPA regulations (vs. ISO or TNI) so it only says indelible ink. The majority of the inks I use are Noodler's bulletproof inks & have been approved by our QA/QC officer. Since Noodler's inks are not ISO or anything else certified I decided to do my own tests with some of our common solvents in the lab in case an auditor ever asks about it. My test wasn't anything super scientific but should be enough to show anyone the permanency of the ink. While I was at it I figured it's nice to share my results with you. The test: I filled a beakers with 6 common solvents we use in our lab. The solvents are Hexane, Acetone, Ethyl Acetate, Methylene Chloride, methyl tert butyl ether(MTBE), and Methanol. I wrote the name of each ink on plain copy paper and let it dry overnight. I then let it soaked each piece of paper in the corresponding solvent for at least 1 minuet. During the soak I agitated the piece of paper several times in an attempt to force the ink to wash off. And for reference I wrote the name of the solvent the paper was placed in with a black Bic pen. After soaking I removed the paper and placed it on the counter to dry. Edit: One other note, the ink labeled Noodler's Teal is a 1:4 mix of Bad Green Gator and Bad Blue Heron respectively. This first picture is of everything before it was soaked in solvent. And please forgive my bad handwriting as I was scribbling the names and wasn't worried about penmanship.
  13. Greetings. For the office and use on cheap photocopy paper I like the quick drying properties of Noodler's Bernanke inks. Color selection is limited to red, blue or black. Here is my go at mixing the three colors to get new options including purple (1 part red to 1 part blue) and my general go-to color: blue-black or midnight blue. Drying time seems to remain the same and not changed by mixing (but will leave it to others to test and confirm). I've read mixing inks made by different companies can be problematic. My assumption (right or wrong?) is mixing inks within the Noodler's Bernanke family should be okay. (Tests done on old (1940s-1950s) good stock graph paper)
  14. timotheap

    Noodler's Triple Tail

    Well that's a big pen - demonstrator for now. I don't like demonstrators but this pen would use up a lot of ink, and being able to see the ink level means less unscrewing the barrel to check and so mayber greater longevity...? Flex Quite stiff - stiffer than my Ahab, although that's something that can change quite quickly. On thing I found with Noodler's pens: give them time. Yet I can get decent line variation for sketching for example, simply because of the way I hold it makes "no pressure lines" finer, and "some pressure lines" ok. In the picture below, the hatching shows from reverse writing to good pressure. The oyster-like doodle on the write shows it requires no effort to thicken the line on downstrokes, when in "sketching position" (higher angle than writing angle, looser grip). Skipping / railroading Railroading - nothing worrying and of course it's brand new, we'll see what happens after a good night spent inked up. Skipping: some, when doing quick strokes held at "writing angle" with no pressure. None, if at a high angle, which I find ideal for loose sketching. None, at writing angle with normal writing. Again, that's probably my nib - and maybe not enough flushing. Nib I wanted the Triple Tail because in one of Nathan's videos it looked like it had a lot more flex than the Neponset, and also being the latest iteration of his music nib I thought it was taking the best bet. The nib is smooth, and writes a good medium line with normal pressure - very much like a few Jinhao nibs I have, maybe even a bit thinner. It looks like this nib is sensitive to angle - I guess it makes sense, with three tines that have to make contact with the paper. Conclusion I expected it to be unruly, hard to control but not at all and I can definitely see myself getting more comfortable - remember I've just had it, I simply couldn't help myself telling this forum.... The more I doodle with it, the more responsive it gets, and it's a rather unique pen. I hope this helped a little bit those who wonder about the Triple Tail... I'll be happy to give more info if I can - Sorry for the quality of the pictures - not much I can do given how much I hate taking pictures but hopefully it will give you an idea of what's going on... Timo
  15. Here's a brief comparison of 3 modern flex nibs: Conklin Omniflex, Noodler's Ahab, Fountain Pen Revolution Flex. Ease of flex Conklin Omniflex FPR flex Noodler's Line variation FPR flex - the nib writes finer "naturally" Noodler's Conklin Omniflex Railroading They all railroad at some point but it depends so much on how quick, how often and how hard you flex that this is really where I need to call in the YMMV. That being said, my Ahab is the most reliable and sturdy. Nib "feel" Conklin Omniflex feels the most fragile: the metal seems the thinnest, and I don't dare pushing it too much, Noodler's Ahab feels the sturdiest of the three, smooth even flexed to its maximum. Normal writing FPR has the finest line and feels almost italicized, a bit dry and doesn't keep up well with my rather fast writing. That might be something I can fix with brass sheets etc but I don't want to alter the line variation so I'll wait! Noodler's pleases me the most: smooth, a fine medium, still wet, always keeps up. Conklin: meh, nothing to say. Conclusion As much as it kills me to say it, the FPR flex nib is the best in terms of flex, you can get very "calligraphic" with it. The Conklin Omniflex just feels too fragile to me - I must be able to feel comfortable otherwise I might as well go back to dip pen nibs. The Ahab is just the most versatile of all: I love it as an everyday writer, I still love flexing it even after the beautiful discovery of FPR nib. I'll try to swap the FPR nib onto the Ahab and see how I like it (as I don't like the Himalaya V2 pen that much) but I'm pretty sure I want to keep the Ahab as is.
  16. timotheap

    Noodler's Ahab

    I spent days reading reviews, watching videos, etc before getting one... so here's my small contribution (nothing new but then I didn't mind a single time reading again and again the same reviews so...) I flushed the pen, brushed the feed (the usual water, 10% ammonia, a drop of detergent) just to be on the safe side. Nib: Very smooth, even when flexing hard. Very wet too: it made Diamine Syrah look really dark when other pens show it on the pinkish side, it made Parker Quink a real black. Flex: Easier and easier. The variation goes from hair thin (because of the speed, otherwise it's a M on the fine side) to 2 mm. I flexed like mad for hours on end without ever railroading. I've had this pen for two weeks and gone through many many refills without a single problem, doing entire pages of nonsensical flex. Now I'm experiencing some railroading then nothing for hours, but before I tinker with it I want to understand what is going on. (I haven't noticed that the breather tube changes anything and prefer to leave it on as I would probably lose it otherwise). Even with the current hiccups, I am as pleased as I can be. I don't want to get it into the "oh you can't call it a flex nib" but here's what I mean: I've only ever had normal pens with steel nibs, none of them can do what the Ahab does. I've played (and still play) with dip pen nibs and none of them would ever become an everyday writer. And I get to do things that can pass for pseudo-calligraphy. I have the best of both worlds... Looks: I expected the Ahab to look kitsch, or cheap, or completely ugly. I had chosen Iroquois and am really pleased with the material: subtle swirls that go from copper to grey to dark brown streaks ... really beautiful. Conclusion I would buy it again, had no idea I would love it so much. As a side note, I bought it for the good and the bad reviews: the good ones made me dream of it, the bad ones made me want to make it work for me. I've had it for two weeks, used it every day for long sessions of inept flexing and normal writing, and many many refills. I really hope this pen lives forever.
  17. I love everything about the Triple Tail. The largeness. The clearness. The non-smellyness. The plunger filling system. The 308 cartridges I can use. Everything, that is, but the nib itself. It's just too darn much for me. It's finicky, which is bad enough. But even when it does work after heat setting, etc -- and even with an ink as simple as 4001 Royal Blue or Waterman Serenity Blue -- it's like writing with a paint brush. And that's before flexing! Before I return it for a partial refund, I thought I would see if anyone has managed to trade it out for a #6 nib? And it not a basic #6, then something else? I saw someone asked Goulet, and the answer was: "Maybe". Have you done it? How'd it go?
  18. Anyone else have issues with Noodler's being overfilled. Sure maybe it's on me not to spill, however when I'm opening an ink bottle like I'm doing neurosurgery I'd like to think it's not just me. I open the bottle gently and slowly and ink squirts all over the place. Why must they do this, id rather they not fill it so full. I guess in the future I'm going to just syringe a bunch out. Is this happening to other people? Also any tips on opening a bottle that's overfilled or should I just wear a hazmat suit and prepare for inkegeddon
  19. I've been wanting to get into flex pens ever since I started using fountain pens a few years ago, but didn't want to get ahead of myself. So I started off with all the recommended beginner pens. I've been writing with all my pens for awhile and now I'm itching to get into flex but would like some recommendations. I've been watching a bunch of youtube videos and curious which flex pen most people here think has the best performance. I hear vintage flex is where its at, however I can't afford vintage flex so I have to stick to modern flex for now. Here are the modern flex pens I am aware of. Pilot FalconPilot Custom 912 - FA NibFPR Himalaya V2 Ultra FlexNoodlers Ahab, Boston, Creaper, Konrad, Neponset, tripleConklin OmniflexEdit - Desiderata PensLike I mentioned above I'm curious what the community thinks is the best performing modern flex pen and feel free to let me know of other ones that is worth looking into. I know mileage will vary.
  20. Rosendust

    Noodler's Tokyo Gift

    Hey everyone! Hope this post finds you well. So I was browsing for ink, and came across Nathan's newest ink. However, I have reservations about his inks considering the disaster I had with Bernanke Blue, I have sworn off Noodler's entirely. Should I give this ink a chance? Picture of the ink swatch, courtesy from the Goulet's: https://www.gouletpens.com/collections/ink-samples/products/noodlers-tokyo-gift-ink-sample?variant=16902535249963 Thanks everyone!
  21. How good is an for normal flex nib vs a click flex nib vs a Noodler's ahab
  22. Yesterday I had a science class where we were testing the acidity and alkalinity of different liquids. I saw that as the perfect opportunity to put the permanency of some "permanent" inks to the test as there were a few chemicals on hand. I had three inks on hand: Noodler's Bulletproof black, Rohrer und Klingner Salix and Parker Quinkflow ballpoint ink. The Noodler's didn't budge, while the iron-gall was obliterated by the bleach, and changed colour for the ammonia and hydrochloric acid, and the Parker ballpoint turned red with bleach and then faded some more, and hydrochloric acid life a blue dye component. Just a little something to fuel one's curiosity
  23. Free to anyone in the US. PM me if interested. Send me postal costs via paypal for elsewhere. These are 1-2 ml samples from Goulet Pens, in plastic vials.
  24. Picked this up at Dromgooles in Houston to fill a new Danitrio. Nice ink, a bit dry but not too much. Good water resistance for a red. tokyp gift by Ja Ja, on Flickr
  25. Hello everybody! It's my first time in this subforum, so please alert me if I'm doing something wrong. I have somehow accumulated over 20 different bottles of ink and 50 samples in the past two years. Love the variety, but some of these bottles don't get much use, and the ink in them just ages on my shelf. That's been bothering me a lot, since they're actually superb inks that just have had the bad luck of ending up in the hands of someone who doesn't appreciate them the way they deserve. So I'd like to send some of these out as big 5ml samples to anyone who's interested, in exchange for the same courtesy. I feel that that way, each of us gets to try new inks, and since everybody would pay postage, it wouldn't cost one more than the other. Full-sized bottles: De Atramentis AubergineDiamine AmaranthDiamine Ancient CopperDiamine Autumn OakDiamine Asa BlueDiamine BilberryDiamine Classic GreenDiamine Earl GreyDiamine Golden BrownDiamine Majestic BlueDiamine OxbloodDiamine SyrahJ. Herbin Bouquet d'AntanJ. Herbin Lie de ThéJ. Herbin Poussière de LuneKWZ HoneyKWZ MaroonNoodler's Heart of DarknessRohrer & Klingner Alt-GoldgrünRohrer & Klingner HelianthusRohrer & Klingner SalixRohrer & Klingner SepiaSailor Jentle/Shikiori MiruaiSailor Jentle/Shikiori Oku-YamaSailor Jentle/Shikiori Rikyu-ChaSailor Jentle/Shikiori Tokiwa-MatsuSailor Jentle/Shikiori Yama-DoriSailor Nano Sei-Boku Samples: Diamine China BlueL'Artisan Pastellier Callifolio Heure DoréeSailor Jentle/Shikiori Waka-UguisuJ. Herbin Vert OliveSuper5 Frankfurt





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